Heres the video from lastnight. http://ausraptor.net/droopz/First%20Boost.mpg Unfortunatly you can hear a nearby generator chugging away in the darkness, but you can still get an idea of what the car sounds like now. Ill get some better footage sometime today....

Heres the video we took earlier today...

http://ausraptor.net/droopz/Second%20Run.mpg

Unfortunatly it sounds like i still have a small leak from teh drivers side manifold. Regardless... its only running about 3-4psi and it still hauls ***.

Nice work. Will it eventually be intercoolered? I ran mine for a little while nonintercooled, then when i intercooled it, wow did it make a big differance.

just awsome, i can't wait for my gt40 to come in

Still fighting with this damn header leak still killing gaskets. Apart from getting them machined, the only other thing i can think of is the order i do the bolts up.

It there a recommended order to do them up?

i think there may be but i don't know it off had sorry.....

I can't believe dogs chase cars over there also! Ha,Ha Looks good and if I didn't know you were thousands of miles away I would think you were just down the road from here.Are you using Mr.Gasket white or grey gaskets?

Neither im afraid... i was using a green-ish 'Teadit' non asbestose extrator gasket. I have another 2 to try with. I've been searching for the last hour her and on turbomustangs and get very mixed results regarding RTV.

Some people swear buy it, other refuse to look at it... Im all confussed.

Should I

1. Try again with this gasket and risk it blowing outright
2. Not use a gasket at all and just use Ultra Copper RTV
3. Dress another gasket in UC RTV and install that.
4. Sell car, and buy a camery.

Seriously... this leak is it. Once its gone this part of teh project is over!! Very keen to get rid of it.

EIDT: OK, after another hour or so researching, it seems using only the RTV is very popular and successful over at turbostangs.com

Hi Luke,

The header flange must have been slightly bent from the welding, if its not too much you can easily get rid of the leak by using this;

Percy's seal 4-good header gaskets

Forget about all other gaskets, this one is the best or at least the one that has given me the best results. I am very glad that you finally got the headers and have the car running, nothing like that first boosted ride!
Good luck

Factory = no gaskets

If it was me, I’d make sure that it’s really flat and use just some copper RTV. Sanderson actually recommends just black rtv.

If it’s not flat and you can’t get it flat then I have gotten away with using some of those individual port gaskets, doubled up at the port that is farter away from the head (usually the middle 2 ports)

I second the copper RTV. I normally just use Prematex Ultracopper, BUT it has to be very close to flat.

You can put some 80 grit emery cloth on a straight edge to get is close. It takes some time but usually works out to be the same time as bringing it to a machine shop and later picking it up.

How far is it out? Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge. I think factory spec is between .008" to 0.015".

OK..so far, using a fiber gasket dressed with RTV seems to have held up so far, so ill see how long it holds for.

I took the car for its first REAL run last night. Out on the main raod with my trusty old G-Tech. On the same road where I ran 14.32, I just pulled a 13.28@111.2mph, and she was spinning her tits off.

My next area to attack is fuel, as it felt a bit like it was running out towards the topend, so i wasnt able to really push too hard. Through my various schemes and scams I've ended up with the following items, and Id like some help devising the EASIEST to install system.

- Bosche 044 external pump
- Malpasi FMU (no ratio mentioned on casting)
- A 3ltr fuel surge tank/cell

Also, as you can tell in this old pic, my fuel lines need to be moved away from the manifol and dump pipe. I dont know how hot they need to get before bad things happen but im sure that close enough to get them there.



Am I going to be OK running FI rubber lines? As no-one here can make solid lines or even supply the gear for me to do it. This would also make plumbing in the pump and FMU easier.

Also, while I think about it, I just wanted to say a big thankyou to everyone here that been helping me out, both directly and through post made elsewhere. No way would I have got this happening without all the info i've got here!

That's a nice ET improvement with as low of boost as your running.

Thanks mate.

Right now my current plan for the fuel is as follows.... can anyone see any major flaws with this setup?

That is exactly how I plan to modify my fuel system.

Really? Even the selection of booster pump? I definatly feel better about my plan now. If its good enough for the Joby-mobil then its good enough for me.

I don't know the number on the bosch pump, but the 044 is a good one.

This is for my Corvette.

On Fredriks turbo Camaro he runs two bosch pumps directly from the fuel tank.

I have been thinking about some type of warning light and a level switch when the surge tank is half empty. It should allways be full so that would be a warning if the stock pump is too small.

i don't know if you plan on dropping the tank or not but if you are you should just weld in a -10an feed and return bung into the lowest most rear part of the tank. thats what i have on my car and its cheaper then a surge tank, just my .02

I dont see the necessity for the surge tank and all the other lines and stuff. Just put a big intank pump, and a boost-a-pump. No messing with custom lines and fittings, just my .02.

Unless you plan on road racing the car I think a surge tank is a little unessisary. On the race team I worked on we had one just for the fact that we ran two fuel tanks cuase thats how corvettes are set up. But it does work. and it works well.

Ill see how we go... like i said, the surge tank, pump and FMU didnt cost me anything. I dont go a great deal of circut racing but I do enter alot of burnout comps.

Ill have to re-do a heap of the lines anyway since I dont want to risk cooking my fuel with it being so close to the extractor and downpipe, so since im running hoses and flaring stuff I might as well do it all.

I think ive already asked, but ill confirm anyway. Is it ok that I dont know what ratio the FMU is, since I can just tune to what pressures it gives me? Id be happy at this stage if it just ran pig-rich and will look at tuning everything later.

rich is not always good but you will have a less likelyhood of blowing up, just get tuned as soon as you can the tuner will be able to adjust for teh fmu boost in pressure to a certain extent.....

One more little video of me testing a few little tweaks. Specificly Im trying to stop oil leaking out of my filler cap (i thnk the turbo has either damaged the caps seal, or the oil is get boiled out for something) and making sure I had fixed my alternators charging issues.

http://ausraptor.net/droopz/More%20Testing%20Low.wmv 11mb

Also on the issue of my oil leak....

DO i have to do something with this hose that goes into the rocker cover. Im not sure what it is, but am I right in the assumption that if its from the intake it with boost my rockers and sump and force the oil out?

EDIT Forgot image...

Sounds much better with the exhaust leak fixed and your friend looks a lot different when he's serious.

Huh, I like the surge tank idea… as a matter of fact I’ve considered doing that before and it seemed like everyone reacted like I was insane. What are you using for the actual tank?

You have one hose on each valve cover.

The one on your picture is the side with the PCV-valve going to the intake. It has a built in check-valve. It is not a problem if the valve is OK.

On the other valve cover it is just a hose to the front of the throttle body and that is BAD. You can route that hose to between the air filter and Turbo, or to open air.

Yeah thanks mate, I had the non-PCV one disconected already, but still had the PCv one in. Just to be sure I blew through the PCV valve and was able to get air through quite easily. So for now the PCV goes to atmosphere and the manifold is capped.

Blew out another bloody gasket last night. Im having major dramas finding any decent SBC gaskets over here. NO ONE has even heard of the Percy's ones, and I cant find anyone selling the copper ones either.

Anybody that carries Mr Gasket stuff should be able to get you a copper one, but I would suggest that something else is wrong if you're blowing them out that consistently...

Im fairly sure its a combination of the face being slightly warped towards the back and not being able to get enough torque on the back bolt.

To that end ive made a custom bolt that SHOULD allow me to get a good tool on and some decent torque down. If not, i guess ill have to send it off to be machined flat. Its just a real bitch to get out now, as i think the bottom flage will need to be cut off to get it up through the engine bay.

Just a couple of pics of the new badges and unfinished hood....

Good ***! that hood is huge! . Good luck trying to park that car in a parking lot . The IROC-T looks good.

I know

I still not sure if i like where the hood "is going" so to speak. Ill keep at it for now since its definatly going to work, its just a matter of how it looks. On the 'front' face of the big cowl, im thinking ill cut out large areas and use angled mesh to cover them up to allow a heap of air-flow in and out. Its also removes a large area that I would otherwise have to get flat.

Im also in the process of getting myself a fiberglass cowl hood. And even though it wont fit on, it will give me a better base to work on to 'extend' its stock cowl.

Have you looked into the 3" Jongbloed Hood? it has a very!! Wide cowl that should work well for you and looks cool as hell as far as cowl hoods are concerned. Its $450 ($465 for the 6" version) US not including international shipping on a hood . Here are some pictures BTW.

3" Jongbloed Hood

Yeah it definatly looks the goods, but unfortunatly its not high or wide enough.

If i can get this hood looking good enough ill use it as my 'street' hood, then ill get another (preferably fiberglass) stock hood and cut the hole just for the turbo and use it as my 'race' hood.

What’s it look like on the car? Seems like it would need some detail, but I’d worry about making it too busy.

i think i'd just fiberglass a hump onto a flat hood, or even an air inlet of sorts. kinda like this:

I’ve never been that thrilled about the hood, but I’ve always liked how BlownBird’s plumbing came through the hood (huh, I wonder if this will work, it’s a link to the URL of the pic as an attachment in another thread on this board):

Thats the kind of hood i imagined for a 'race' hood, but i couldnt drive around for long with that without getting pulled over.

Do you have any other pics of this setup?

It all depends on the look you are after. Engine parts sticking out of the hood always gets the "I wanna race" attitude on the street. Maybe you could bend some sheet metal to just bubble up to clear the turbo like the Talon (??) hood. Doing body work on hoods takes a fair amount of time, but I think it would probably look the best.

Either way, the work you did on that car looks good. Just installing all of the turbo stuff is a lot of work in itself. I am impressed that you have it all working in that short of time.

I think you should of kept it flat with that turbo sticking out like that and the scoop you grounded into it would look awesome. I think the ”I wanna race look” is a good thing especially if its a fast car that back the look up.

this is the thread i found those pics in:

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/...threadid=45923

Ive had a few reservations about this hood lately as well (more over its weight than its looks), but the long and short of it is, I need a hood I can get the car inspected and passed with. So if i just use this one when i "have to" ill sort out another for cruising/racing.

I MAY have found a fiberglass hood (2" cowl) already here in the counrty that I might be able to get at a decent price. If i can, then ill probly just cut the required hole and see how it looks. Also bear in mind my turbo doesnt sit as high as the one posted above.

you should just make a small hump by cutting a hole in the hood and then by taking some fiberglass and doing it up. it would be less noticable and probably more pretty then the one you got going for you now

TurboTPI!

I was hoping you might be able to give me a bit of a brake down of what you've done to your car to bring her so far into the 11s, as im very keen to reach a similar goal with the IROC.

Just ran a 12.6 @3-4psi, so its looking good. (Gtech only tho)

R you running the SY/TY ecu yet? That would be a huge help with tuning...

i know and im trying to find one asap, but i cant find one for sale that they are willing to send over to me. If anyone knows of some good deals that are willing to send to australia let me know.

For now im stuck with using a FMU.

I was researching turbo headers to day and came across this interesting forum so I started reading and the 1990 Red IROC with the steering wheel on the wrong side didn’t ring a bell at first. Then after seeing some more pictures I remembered seeing the car somewhere but couldn’t think where. Then I saw this it's Raven's little helper!! How come you didn’t share her with us like over at the other forum. just messing with yea. Any updates on your hood?

Haha... which forum did you find? Ive got threads bloody everywhere. LOL. Here im 'Raven' coz its a really old login, everywhere else (including real life) im known as Droopz.

Thats my baby!...

..and some chick im bangin.... :P



... Im joking baby if your reading this!!!!!



This is the hood right now. The pic doesnt do it justice but you get an idea of the look. At this stage im almost over it. I just want to be able to drive the bloody thing again.