It was Performance something forum I forget now. But looking from the side looks kind of awkward but from the front I would assume the wholes are even. Cause I can see the ridge down the center but looks better with the vents I think. Now you have a little window to see out of when in parking lots. Good work so far. Edit: Do those IROC - T decals fit in the rockers? Look kind of long unless you have the ground effects that original said Camaro in them. EDIT EDIT: In the background of your hood picture is that the same Jeep?

Maybe i missed it early on, but is this a stock bottom end? Factory tuned port with fmu? If it is then a 12.6 on maybe 4 psi is awesome... Although im guessing that it isnt and i know those are just gtech numbers, but either way

I bet that mother comes into boost Real fast!

Hurry up and get an intercooler and lets see somethin like 10 psi!


Keep up the good work.... this is my ultimate dream for my 'Roc...

(if she ever gets back on the road that is)

The IROC-T badges are actually stuck on the same perspex as the original IROC-Z was painted on, so yeah, they fit perfectly into the ground effects. Ijust pulled to old ones off, got the original paint off with some thinners and polish, then had a mate cut out teh lettering in reverse, put them on the perspex, and finally put black vinal over the back. THey look a treat.

Yeah its the same, although its not a jeep. Originally it was an old Feroza 4x4, now with a few 'creative' mods, its called the Humma. And is an awsome little shooting truck.

As for my bottom end, unfortunatly it is stock, so yeah the numbers are impressive. I did however want to make a point of mentioning that it was only a gtech run and I cant vouch for the ;level-ness' of the patch I ran on. Next drag meet is in 3 weeks, so providing it survives the 300km+ trip to get there, I should have some credible bragging rights.

Awesome,

The car looks great. Keep us posted on that hunk of metal your calling a hood! It actually doesnt look too bad anymore. I wonder how it looks on the car...

Keep up the good work! Can't wait to hear those numbers

I do have a little question for the experts and experianced out there. I am getting a fine oil-mist appearing on my rear bumper after driving for a while. After a bit of searching I found a small amout of residue in my charge pipe. So this obviously means my turbo is leaking a bit of oil.

Now i KNOW the first and major cause for this is the down pipe, and mine isnt perfectly straight, but i wanted to eliminate other possabilities for i go re-doing the sump.

How many of you are using a restrictor on your oil feed?

Do you think that Mobil1 5-30 is too thin for a 160K mile motor that runs in very high temps?

Is this (very rough pic from memory) oil drain not vertical enough?

You know, that hood looks totally obnoxious, but seeing it on there I could see how with minor changes it could look OK. The thing is that minor changes to the profile would be bigtime work…

Oildrain… Probably OK, as long as it’s downhill all the way and the ID stays over ½”… any little bit going uphill would be a problem. If the engine has excessive blowby or too much oil pressure at WOT (over about 50-60psi getting to the turbo) that would cause the same problem. FWIW, some OEM’s have found it necessary to run extremely large returns even with relatively small turbos, stuff in the ¾-1” range (take a look at an OEM saab turbo setup).

If you can find no other issues you can try putting a restriction in the oil feed.

5w-30… It’s probability OK, but I’d probably be running a straight 40 or 50 weight (conventional or race) as long as it’s reasonably warm out, at least until I was sure that everything was happy, and probably 10w-30 in the winter (and yea, I’ll occasionally drive my projects in the cold…)

I know what you mean about the hood. I thought that if i made it similar shape/lines to the front of the car it would look ok, but in hinde-sight, it think it definatly needs to 'sweep' back alot more and form a much sharper point.

I had another look at the oil drain. Its a 3/4" hose and never goes up hill. Its does get close to flat on 2 occassions but never totally level.

Ill try to find a straight 40 or 50. Its rather be safe right now, that performing at a peak level. What brands do you recommend in the single weight rating?

I might look at a restriction just to help eliminate an issue, but im worried about starving the turbo too much. Its a plain/journal bearing turbo so needs a bit more than a ball bearing unit.

AFter re-checking the line i think its more like this...

Well, guessing that you have that bend in there to go around something, I'd rather see something like this:

That would probably work better for a few reasons:

It's more direct, with less bends, It's shorter, and under accel the oil will get pushed to the back of the pan quite a bit and so that would uncover the opening of the drain back inside, allowing the frothed oil to drain back into the pan. Only problem would be hard braking, which will be for far shorter periods of time than accel.
You could also add sump hinges inside the pan to try and aleviate any chance of hard decel oild drain back blockage.

If you absolutly can't find a 7749, I have one I could ship to you, I believe. Let me know (via PM) and I'll make sure.

Just a couple of engine pics for the IROC while shes waiting for me to finish moulding her a fiberglass hood.

Very nice--

any plans to intercool it?

Probly not. W/A cooler if i had the $$$, but possibly just get a water injection kit to cool the charge a bit.

It looks like the stock hood would work with that installation. It is not 'that' high.

Nah, it ever so slightly hits the top of the compressor housing. Id rather a f/glass one anyway and this way I get to mould a subtle little bump ofver the turbo.

Holy old thread batman!!!

I totally forgot about this little build thread so I thought I jump in and get some new pics up.

The IROC "Stage 1" is complete for now. We just had a devastating flood and we got hit very hard so shes staying 'as-is' for a while now.

Its got the custom FG hood i made still and looks great.

Since I last updated this thread though a few bits have gone into the car.

- 600x300x75 Front Mount.
- Mandrel bent intake piping.
- MSD Blaster SS coil and 6A ignition box.
- Bosche 044 external pump.

All help smooth things out and make her more driveable. Ive gota few pics but all the site i use to host them are down. Ill get them up as soon as I can.

Some pics





Sorry about the dirty engine bay and the hose . Cars sat in storage since the flood.

i like your rad. saports

I like that hood 1000x better than the old one.

How's WOT with the new parts, have you turned up the boost at all?
Any new times or numbers?

You IC and radiator location look like they hinder engine cooling. I guess it's not too bad without the A/C condenser though, huh. Are you going to relocate that air filter?

Sorry to hear about the flood, I hope all works out well!

Do ya figure that stock rad will cut it ? Or does it ?

how is the car holding up. i ask this because somewhere on this sight i heard that sun roofs weaken third gens more than t tops because the car was designed to be supported in the center, but i could be wrong.

stock ecm?

Yeah its a bit rough. Once im happy with how everything is sitting ill make up some proper brackets and then cover the whole area with a stainless sheet.

Yeah... I dont talk about that old hood.

I havnt gone on any LONG drives but ive only noticed a few degrees increase in running temps. The pod is going to be moved to behind the front bumper with ducting to the turbo.

Seems to be fine. Again, Ill know more after I do some long drives and racing.

I actually agree, the last time I painted the car I noticed that there was some slight warping on the top corner of the windows that needed a little skim of bog to remove. But they might have been there before the SFCs went in.

For now yes. Impossible to find the 748 ecm here in australia. A member of this forum emailed recent offering to send on from the States, so once I hear from him I'll be set.

Ever think about going to a aftermarket ECM?

What are the advantages to switching to the 748 ecm over the 730?

749 ECM isn;t it ?Not 748 ? It has privisions for boost managment in it . The 730 doesn't .

IIRC, the 748 is a MAF system, and the 730 ECU only reads vacumn. I dont think it has mapping for boost, just vacumn.

I could be wrong, wouldnt be the first time.

Yeah it might me 749. Its been a while since I really looked into it all. Its is able to be used with a 2 bar MAP sensor, so it can adjust fuel and timing with boost.

The 749 and 730 use almost identical motherboards, you can run the 749's boosted code on the 730 with just some repinning I think, might be easier than trying to find one down under. There is loads of info about this on the DIY PROM forum.

so is that fiberglass hood a liftoff or did you figure a way to make a it a bolt on? reason i ask is i just made a liftoff hood from a stock 82 fiberglass crossfire hood. i like it alot, it makes working on the car alot easier.

That is correct. If using high impedance injectors (stock TPI) then you are better off using the 730 ECM with the stock 730 MEMCAL with the Syclone $58 program burned into it. The 730 ECMs typically are half the cost of the 749 and are more readily available. Your 1990 car should already have the 730 ECM in it.
All you need is a GM 2-bar MAP sensor and programming equipment or have some one program it for you. Either way, using either the 749 or 730 will require the PROM to be re-programmed for the V8 (and tuned also). You will still need the FMU if you are using small injectors.
If you have the stock injectors, don't swap the ECM. It will be a waste of time and money.
----------
There is only one advantage of the 749 ECM over the 730 ECM. It can drive more low-z injectors than the 730 ECM can drive.

The 749 ECM disadvantage over the 730 ECM is that it does not have as many output drivers to control solenoids & relays.

The only reason to use a 749 ECM is if using low-Z injectors.

Just chiming in after ages lol.

Finally drove the car this weekend for the first time since Feb I think. Took it and my other cars to a local car show.









The hilux isn't mine, but the mini is the slicks, jack and tools car

Hi Luke,
How it's been going? What ever happened to the hood scoop you made yourself? I really liked that scoop you did!
Any horsepower numbers, dyno?

Hey Ed! How the hell are ya mate?

Cars going sweet mate. Hasn't been on the road for nearly a year until last weekend haha. Got in a spot of bother with the local law inforcment and had to spend a bit of time gettign all the mods on the car engineered.

She's runnign really nice now tho. Stage 3 manual Turbo 400 now with a nice little 2700 stall. It's like driving a new car.

This is the hood I made that your talking about right?



Unfortunatly if was just too thin for the kind of driving and roads around here and it started cracking at teh endges of the scoop. Plus the plod were making noises about pinging me for teh hood pics as they are not road legal here.

I still have it though incase the rego people want to be anal about the size of the current hood. Hopefully repaint the car soon (weather permiting) which i was the hood isnt painted yet.

Nah mate, still no dyno or track numbers yet. Not a big fan of numbers, just as long as I'm faster that whats next to me.

Shouldn't be a problem :P

I just read all the posts, I wanted to say nice build! I've never seen a right hand drive third gen before, let alone a right hand second gen T/A!
Nice car man!

Hello Luke,

Well I am alright, it's good to know from you!

"Nah mate, still no dyno or track numbers yet. Not a big fan of numbers, just as long as I'm faster that whats next to me."

I like that kind of thinking!!

That hood is really clean, is a shame you cannot use it daily