hey all..i have been searching for a few weeks now..normal hp hungry guy. i have formula with a basic 350. edelbrock performer rpm cam and intake, performer 600 carb. battery in trunk no computer or a/c. i am thinking of going twin turbo for obvious reasons. nothing sick just a kick *** fun ride. reliable. ok will headers like the ones on ebay 8036521378 (the ones that bolt the turbo near the battery trays way in front of the engine) work? all i have seen are flipped block hugger style? also where does the exhaust gas go after it goes into the turbo? where does the cars exhast bolt to after the turbo.im a little foggy on this?i guess there is a port on the turbo you must adapt to?so with these headers it'll be way up front! so i need a blow through carb(some one made a holley a blow through with some floats??)sounds possible? i need headers and turbo's? 2- t3's? i am a good fabricator with a good eye. i have created some silly things. is this possible? i have a fiberglass daytona cowl and would like it all to fit under.

A blow-through carb turbo system can work very well. A lot of people have done it successfully. I'm more a fan of EFI, so I can't give you a lot of info. Check over on Turbomustangs.com, or contact one of the companies that modifies carbs for blow-throu aps, such as CSU.

As for the exhaust, I would not suggest those manifolds. They are imported junk welded up by 10 year olds over in asia somewhere. The manifold tubing is too thin to support the heat and weight of the turbo. I have seen many of the SSautochrome manifold break apart. Contact B&G turbo systems if you want a real turbo manifold, or build your own turbo header.

In this type of turbo system, the exhaust outlet from the turbos will go back under the header to connect to the rest of your exhaust system.

I say go with what 89jyturbo says. Make your own. They will last longer and you know the materials they are being made with. As for the turbos, just go to turbomustangs.com or junkyard turbo.com. Also go to the link in turbomustangs.com and click on how to modify Holley DP for blow thru. Its not hard. Just a few mods to the pvcr's , the floats, and the choke horn. Then its time to tune. Have jet sizes from 60-78 available. Follow the directions carfully on how to modify the carb.
Get inspired! There is nothing sicker than boosted muscle!
The look on peoples faces (especially imports)when you roll up with a sick cammed idle and then they hear a piiiisssssshhhh sound of the turbo's instant boost and insane power level for little work.
Look on people's faces, PRICELESS!!!!!

Dont spend insane money on crappy china welded headers that crack under the turbo's weight and the different metals used. Weld up your own.

The exhaust comes out the back of the turbo and can be hooked up to your stock exhaust with some down pipes. Get turbo's that are internally wastegated so that it will be easier.

89JYTURBO, you were my inspiration on my build. Thanks a lot.
You others thinking about it, do it. You never regret the time or anything because of how fun it is to drive and because of the cheap horsepower.

BUILD IT, AND IT WILL COME (that is, horsepower being it)

ok what are some vehicles that have turbo's with wastegates on them with the square flange?
does it have to have intercoolers? or can i try to suck cold air from the beginning?
do you think there is a way to put the turbo's near the battery trays on each side.
im not really worried about exhaust i guess ill fit something to it..
anyone ever see the internet movie of the twin turbo grand national, side pipes out the fenders and turbo's sticking through the hood.does a burnout on the dyno
thanks guys the past few nights ive been dreaming turbo

OK, some cars in the junkyard that have the square flanges are Mercedez Benz 300SD turbo diesel, Volvo's turbo diesel and gas models, Nissan 300ZX turbo model, Sabb's almost all, Ford Thunderbird Turbo 4 cyl coupes(lots of these out there,Mistsubishi Eclipse GST and Talons, and Chrysler Le Barons (the chrysler's have crappy small turbos) and just about anything diesel out there. All these have internal waste gates. I would look for the Mercedez, Volvo or Thunderbird turbo's. Those are the best size and are Garrett turbo's. Also I would choose diesel turbo's over gas because they have a better trim amd spool faster.
Pick up a matching pair of these turbos and then have them rebuilt and mybe upgrade them to bigger housings. Choose the flange to weld to your headers after you got the turbos. Ebay has nice laser cut ready to weld flanges with the bolts and gaskets for like $20.00 each. You cant beat that!! Dont bother making your own flanges like other people, buy them, their cheap. The turbos should not cost you more than about $80.00 in a local U-pick junkyard.

Hope that answers most of your questions. Just ask when in doubt of anything.

thanks guys. ill keep on the lookout for these turbo's. also should i design my system around intercooler or is that something that can be plumbed in at a later date. i know it helps.but just so i can worry about less and get it going.

I'm pretty sure the thunderbird/volvo/chrysler are essentially the same turbo with different bolt patterns at the flanges. I could be wrong.

you can save money on flanges if you get ford style turbos. I believe you can interchange the housings, centers, shafts, and wheels between them, too. this could be totally off the wall.

All those turbos are fromt the Garrett/AiResearch T3 line. I think the specs on the Volvo and Chrysler units are the same, but as you mentioned the flanges will be different. The T-bird turbos gave different specs on the wheels, a lot of them were the 60 trim versus the 50 trim like my original Volvo turbos. Many parts are interchangable.

You can build the system without an intercooler for low boost. I would say keep it around 6psi until you can install a good IC or alky injection.

The chrysler turbos are different in the compressor housing from the thunderbird turbos. I can say from seeing the two they are different in inlet design also. Just stick with the mercedez, volvo, nissan, and mitsubishi turbos. These turbos have the normal straight in tube design that all normal turbos have. The chysler and thunderbird have a flange type inlet design which is like a water outlet on your manofold with two bolts. Keep it simple. Get the regular ones. And yes, the turbine wheel trims are different on the diesels.
Build the system first without a intercooler and then when everything is mocked up, add the intercooler or alky injection or for low boost like 89jyturbo says, no intercooler, as long as under like 6psi.

All these turbos are Garret T3's but have different sizes.

Keep it simple man! I dont know why people like making things more complicated .Just find a pair and then buy the flanges that can be welded to the headers which will be leak free instead of rigging some flanges your self. Remeber, the turbos will operate at exteme temps and are heavy. Use a laser cut flange with bolts that will hold the heat and pressure along with metal gaskets.

You will get various opinions. JY89turbo has a very nice setup and you might want to duplicate that. Have you looked at the pics for his turbo setup? It all depends on what you want for HP and streetablility. I know a few people that have been beat by turbo imports and now they want turbos too. For them it is just a dream and something they say they are going to buy/build. Real world is that they aren't, but it makes them feel better.

A single would be more simple and easier to fabricate. Why twins?

Good for race. Needs a lot of bracing for street to be reliable.
Thin 5/16" or less flanges add to the reliability problem.

The turbo has an exhaust inlet and an exhaust outlet. You make a pipe to connect to the turbo outlet. You can route that pipe where ever you want. Most people route it under the car to the rear of the car.

Depends on what you want for horsepower. Many people run two T3's on V8 street rigs. Some run T4's and some run T6's.

That could mean many things. If you build stuff then make the headers yourself so you can have it the way you want it. You probably will not like the layout if someone else makes it cause you probably already have something in mind.

Overall, it comes down to three things: Time, Money, and Experience. Since you have the experience you might as well make the stuff yourself. That way you know the quality and reliability of it.

You can make it fit. Use a string across the fenders and look at the hood bracing or pull the coolant fan and radiator and use a tape measure. I have a 70 camaro with two T3's on it and it fits under the hood. The 70 camaro has much less hood clearance than a thirdgen (TPI will not fit on it properly).

you guys rock...also if i wanted to mount the turbo's in the battery trays then i would have to have the exhaust hook into it there?? i saw the b&g setup on another members car and his turbo's were mounted up front near the radiator, and his exhaust must be there i guess!. you cant make a log style manifold with the exhaust hooked in the rear and the turbo up front ??then the exhaust gas would just exit the turbo un muffled.right?
i would only want 6 psi and i figure twin is simpler just so you dont have to tie the two exhausts together before the turbo...
i just have all this room in front of the car by where the battery trays are...
now with the size turbo's...how do i make 6 psi no more no less?

Yhe wastegate bypasses exhaust around the turbocharger's turbine to control it's speed and therefore boost pressure.

I really think you should buy and read both 'Turbochargers' by Hugh MacInnes and 'Maximum Boost' by COrky Bell. Once you read both of them cover to cover, you will have a much better idea of how to build your turbo system. The pictures will also be valuable. I love pictures of turbos.

All of the exhaust coming from the engine must go into the turbo. You can't have other pipes connected to the engine that do not go to the turbo. Think of the turbo like how you would connect up a muffler on the car. It has an inlet and an outlet.
All of the engine exhaust must go to the turbo inlet.

Twins require two downpipes, two oil feed lines, two air breather boxes, two compressor pipes. Possibly two sets of coolant lines and an intercooler with a dual inlet.
A single requires one of each and only two exhaust pipes feeding it. Generally, making one of anything is easier than making two. This does apply to turbo fab also.

You can make 6 PSI with just about any turbo. Think about it like this.........take a 1/8" garden hose and put a nozzle on it and it will make 6 PSI, take a 1" garden hose and put a nozzle on it and it will make 6 PSI. The 1" hose will give more flow than the 1/8" hose but both will make 6 PSI.
The point is that you aren't really looking for PSI. You are looking for flow (CFM, lb/min, etc).
You need to learn about reading a compressor map. Maybe those books mentioned will show you. I don't own either of those books. I did my entire turbo setup using information from thirdgen.org (search tool), turbomustangs (search tool), and Google (to find turbo info websites). Books will give you the basic info but always seem to be out of date with the latest technology. You need the basics. Start searching for things like T3, spool, downpipe, etc. And ask questions on things like you don't understand (like you are doing now).

almost all the T3’s use the same flanges on the turbine side, they just bolt a different outlet to the flange. This is a good thing if you don’t want to deal with cutting and welding the ford style elbows since you can just grab a saab straight outlet and bolt it to the flange. The biggest exception are the .63 an .82 A/R GM turbines

The compressor sides, well there are some similarities and some differences. Some have the 2 bolt flange on the inlet like the ford and GN ones do (BTW, you can bolt a big GN inlet to a smaller ford T3) and most have just a hose type connection on the outlet (the biggest exception is the 2 bolt ford turbos which I would recommend grabbing a chunk of the IC plumbing that bolts to it and using that as a hose connection).

The actual turbos range quite greatly in size. For V8 use you probably are looking for the 2 biggest turbine sides, though there have been some people that have gotten away with the .42’s, and you’re probably looking for 60 trim or GN style (almost like a T04) compressor sides. You might be able to use some of the 50 trim T3’s on smaller/lesser flowing V8’s, and the 42 turbine sides would probably work quite well if you were doing a twin rear mount setup.