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Power Adder Getting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.

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Old 02-11-2006, 12:43 AM   #1
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Twin Turbo 406 buildup (carb)

well after a while of buying parts etc.. the engine is finally put together...

http://www.BartonekDragRacing.com/we...gine_small.jpg

I have basically every part I need.. next week I take it to my friends shop for the install/fabrication etc.. its going to run twin Master Power T-70 p-trim turbos, blowing through a CSU 850 carb, Snow Perf. water/methanol stage 2 kit , pro-topline alum. heads, solid roller cam, forged rot. assy...etc..

heres a pic of the carb and bonnet:
http://www.BartonekDragRacing.com/we...b_n_bonnet.jpg



I'll post more pics as the buildup progresses..
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:18 AM   #2
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Nice setup. That should make some big HP numbers. The two MPs are a good choice. What style headers/manifolds are you planning to use? The .com on the hat looks strange/silly. I would have been kind of POed to see that on the new parts I bought.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:46 AM   #3
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my friend is going to fabricate a set for me. I bought 16 gauge header tubing from Summit so that is the material they will be made out of.
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Old 03-11-2006, 08:51 AM   #4
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pics of motor in car

http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/we...0/dsc_0004.jpg

the twins:
http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/we...0/dsc_0005.jpg


did the brake booster delete mod.. LOL. going to buy a wilwood master cylinder for extra clearance. The turbos are going to be off sitting "on top" of the motor off to each side..so the hood needs modification also.
I didnt bother posting all the parts I have..kinda boring I think. So I'll just post progress as it happens.
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Old 03-11-2006, 02:24 PM   #5
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Looks good to far. Those MP turbines look like they have T4 flanges. What did you pick for the turbine A/R?
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Old 03-11-2006, 07:13 PM   #6
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looks good .

the CSU guys are great! thhey know what they are doing with the blow through's.
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Old 03-11-2006, 08:34 PM   #7
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junkcltr: Its been a few months since I bought them.. dont know off the top of my head..when I go to the shop I'll check. Yes they are T4 flange.

automec: yep!! Keith is a smart dude.. even before I bought my carb they were very helpful.. I read nothin but good stuff about them and figured it was a no-brainer.
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:31 AM   #8
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Nice set up. You are going to make some huge power out those things.
I am still having tuning issues with my homemade holley blow thru carb. Can you please tell me how much you paid for the carb itself? I have been debating on buying a CSU or to keep trying to tune my holley. Just want to know how much? Did you send them a carb, or did you just by it from them?

Thanks a lot for your help.

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1988 Iroc-Z 355 4-bolt block Street driven w/forged internals, carb blow thru set up with twin t-3 turbos off a diesel benz made T4 Hybrids w/ a twin BOV,Aluminum vortech heads fully ported, 1.6 full roller rockers with comp forced induction custom grind solid roller cam, stud girdle, Rev kit, Super victor intake, home made headers for turbos tig welded, holley 4150 DP modified for blow thru system, home made carb bonnet, mallory FPR with return, Msd BTM, Alky inj, uderdrive pulleys, 3.5 inch exhaust, 3.73 gears, currently running 18 lbs of boost.(yellow car)

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Old 03-13-2006, 01:51 AM   #9
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Check out the www.turbomustangs.com blow-thru carb section. There is quite a bit of cars running the CSU carbs. Never read one bad post about them. Some mention price & stuff.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:57 AM   #10
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KillerZ: I bought the 850 directly from them. It was $830 and $160 (?) for the bonnet. But junkctlr is right, CSU gets it done right..good tech support also. You can send them your carb and they will mod it.. I thought about doing that but figured it would be easier to just buy it brand new from them.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:58 PM   #11
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Well thanks a lot. I will Look into them.
Keep up the good work.
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1988 Iroc-Z 355 4-bolt block Street driven w/forged internals, carb blow thru set up with twin t-3 turbos off a diesel benz made T4 Hybrids w/ a twin BOV,Aluminum vortech heads fully ported, 1.6 full roller rockers with comp forced induction custom grind solid roller cam, stud girdle, Rev kit, Super victor intake, home made headers for turbos tig welded, holley 4150 DP modified for blow thru system, home made carb bonnet, mallory FPR with return, Msd BTM, Alky inj, uderdrive pulleys, 3.5 inch exhaust, 3.73 gears, currently running 18 lbs of boost.(yellow car)

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Old 07-28-2006, 10:49 PM   #12
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Here ya go fellow hotrodders... update on my motor.. headers coming up!!!





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Old 07-28-2006, 11:15 PM   #13
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Old 07-28-2006, 11:30 PM   #14
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That looks good. It is probably the best fab setup I have seen. You do nice work.
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:32 AM   #15
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I wish I could take credit for that.. LOL ... Gene @ Mosmeyer Automotive is doing all the work.. I just watch and admire the results..LOL
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:58 AM   #16
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pics of the passenger side header.. one tube left to go.. its tack welded then will be tig welded once it is done.




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Old 08-08-2006, 04:32 PM   #17
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Nice looking build, can't wait to see it finished. I'm working on a similar setup and have everything I need to finish it but need... except confidence in my tig skills. I'd hate to ruin my 321 stainless bends, collectors and flanges.

Is it going to be a dragrace only car? I'm keeping mine more street / open roadrace orientated so I want to keep my booster and possibly convert to anti-locks later. I've decided to go with a remote master cylinder ... some of the street rod guys do this if they dont have room on their firewalls for the booster. The kits use a mechanical linkage or a hyd slave cylinder like a hyd. clutch to actuate the master cylinder setup. I think I'm going to put mine in the rear but another option is to mount it inside the dash where the heater box was.

I hate to take the post off topic but that looks like a fuel pressure regulator monted to the firewall. I've been told that having fuel system components on the firewall is against NHRA rules. Maybe someone with a rule book can clairify if this is true.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:38 PM   #18
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Dan W:

no its going to be a street car. I have a remote master cyl also. You are right about the FPR on the firewall.. the tech guy at the track must have missed it on my original setup.. LOL.

I'll keep this updated as it progresses.. TIG welder should be at Gene's shop Friday/Monday so we should see finished headers soon
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Old 08-12-2006, 03:08 AM   #19
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both headers are fabbed up and tack welded..need to be tig welded and coated..

urls to the pics:

one of my Tial wastegates...
http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/tw..._wastegate.jpg

pic of the headers:
http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/tw...h_headers2.jpg
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:23 AM   #20
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Lookin good!
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:05 AM   #21
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wow.... awesome car. Any idea what the hp will be cant imagine a 406 with 2 turbos. Are you using an aftermarket block?
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:20 AM   #22
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i really like that setup looks like it wouldnt be hard to work on eaither... the BBS kit rolls them on top of the valve covers it fits under a 3rd gen hood but i imagine a pain to work on most of it that setup is gonna keep it nice and outta the way... all i know is ive seen plenty of sbc twin turbo build ups hitting 1200hp with just a 355 i couldnt even think of what that 406 will push out... just dont turn that car into a pretzel
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Old 08-12-2006, 04:55 PM   #23
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camarokev400:
yes its a Dart Little M block o-ringed, eagle rot. assy, JE turbo pistons, pro-topline alum. heads, Doug Herbert custom solid roller, pro-magnum rockers etc.


wezeles: yep I can reach the spark plugs and pull the valve covers w/o any problems.

thank you for the replies..glad you'all are enjoying the pics.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:17 AM   #24
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*subscribed*



Interested to see where this is going...


Since you're doing blow thru, what are you doig about boost retard curve? What kind of ignition, just an MSD with piggy back boost retard system? Curious because I'm heading down the exact same road


If you're still undecided... check out this link: Programmable Digital-7 w/Boost Retard Curve, PN 7535

That paired with a nice Wideband o2 and you just may be a happy man. Once the wound heals in your wallet. That's probably the route I'll be taking though.
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Old 08-13-2006, 12:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
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*subscribed*
start a thread for your project...I'm interested... I think I've scoured the entire power adder section for turbo installs. New reading material is always good!

Quote:
Since you're doing blow thru, what are you doig about boost retard curve? What kind of ignition, just an MSD with piggy back boost retard system? Curious because I'm heading down the exact same road
If you're still undecided... check out this link: Programmable Digital-7 w/Boost Retard Curve, PN 7535

That paired with a nice Wideband o2 and you just may be a happy man. Once the wound heals in your wallet. That's probably the route I'll be taking though.
I have a MSD-6ABTM box. I like that Digital7 though. The 6ABTM is the same ignition I used on my roots blown 68. Worked perfect so I'm sure it will work fine here. The WB-02..I'm going to buy a gauge kit that I will use seperately (LM-1 ? I think its called that).. Pretty much as you see it is how it will run. I'll have the snow performance stage 2 kit installed on there to inject per # of boost. Now that my friends TIG is in..I'm going to see if he's up to fabbing up a set of intercoolers after the car is done.
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Old 10-13-2006, 05:30 PM   #26
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build me a set of those headers while youre at it :-D
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:32 PM   #27
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here's a update.. headers are basically done.. Gene is going to completely finish the tubing for the air inlet before he fabs up a housing for the fans. coming along nicely.



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Old 10-28-2006, 07:23 PM   #28
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another update...



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Old 10-30-2006, 10:47 PM   #29
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Lookin' Good. It's going to be tight with the fans up front and an IC. It might be easier to skip the IC and spray it with water/alky/meth instead.
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Old 10-30-2006, 11:00 PM   #30
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I'm not going to run a I/C. The radiator looks closer then it actually is.. it moves forward about 2" ..its just not bolted down.
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:33 PM   #31
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updates...





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Old 11-05-2006, 07:48 AM   #32
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Why the heat barrier over the tubing between the turbos and the intake? Seems unusual and I wonder why you would want hold in the hot air from the turbos.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:11 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Why the heat barrier over the tubing between the turbos and the intake? Seems unusual and I wonder why you would want hold in the hot air from the turbos.
i'm not holding the hot air *from* the turbos..thats the inlet into the carb hat.. The radiator fans will be blowing hot air onto that tubing so I wanted that shielded.
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:45 PM   #34
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Hmm... Do you have a compressor chart for your turbos? How much boost do you plan on running?
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:52 PM   #35
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no chart...look it up on google.

9# initially and about 15-18 later on.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:00 PM   #36
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yeah, I looked briefly but didnt find it right away so i thought I'd ask...

Look into it though... i bet your compressor discharge temps will be higher than your ambient temps behind the radiator. Can't wait to see you finish it and get it dialed in... bad *** ride.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:46 PM   #37
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Could you perhaps get the inlet tubing ceramic coated? Resist heat and not look so ugly.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:30 AM   #38
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do u think it would be a good idea to use a 74 400 2 bolt main block?
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Old 11-06-2006, 02:10 PM   #39
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This is exzactly what Im looking for, I have a rebuilt 400 with a unknown aftermarket cam and stock heads. how much boost would you run through one of theese? If i did do this i couldnt be able to afford heads.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:55 PM   #40
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On using a stock 400 block.....

Seems circle track guys have found the limits of a 400 block to be about 600hp. Remember they are running 7500/8000 rpm continuous. That is what my machinist has told me.
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Old 11-07-2006, 11:26 AM   #41
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really nice looking work...congrats

but DEF ditch the dryer hose and get the intake ceramic coated
just looks trashy around all that good work
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Old 11-13-2006, 11:25 PM   #42
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really nice looking work...congrats

but DEF ditch the dryer hose and get the intake ceramic coated
just looks trashy around all that good work


its not dryer hose btw..

block is a Dart block... you can get away with a 400 block, just run splayed caps if you are going to put some power through it. I think I'll end up removing the heat shield but not ceramic coating it.
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:50 AM   #43
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Quote:
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its not dryer hose btw..

block is a Dart block... you can get away with a 400 block, just run splayed caps if you are going to put some power through it. I think I'll end up removing the heat shield but not ceramic coating it.
i know its not dryer hose but you have to admit from the pics it looks really similar...just get it out of there so your setup will look 100% kick a$$

good luck with the rest of your build
how much did you pick up the dart block for and what internals did you use if you dont mind me askin?
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:58 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSpeedGTA View Post
i know its not dryer hose but you have to admit from the pics it looks really similar...just get it out of there so your setup will look 100% kick a$$

good luck with the rest of your build
how much did you pick up the dart block for and what internals did you use if you dont mind me askin?

the block was around $1600, internals are eagle crank, rods, JE pistons
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:12 PM   #45
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air intake tube...


boost reference etc.


fuel regulator relocated...


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Old 11-19-2006, 09:19 PM   #46
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Runnin that boost you better have a aftermarket block!! Man that is one of the cleanest installs ever. Are the manifolds/headers ceramic coated? How fast you lookin to run?
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:54 PM   #47
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its a Dart block...

no ceramic coating. not looking for any specific ET's. 9's would be nice but i'm not really interested in that at this point.. just wanna put out about 750RWHP and work my way up.


Last edited by BDR; 11-20-2006 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 12-08-2006, 10:53 PM   #48
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alot of work has been done.. the fuel lines were all replaced w/braided, boost lines were installed, intake tapped for boost reference etc.. everything is basically done.. what is left is to fabricate a shroud for the electric fans, hook up the transmission cooler, oil cooler, lower radiator hose and a v-belt.



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Old 12-24-2006, 11:58 PM   #49
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That's a really clean setup. But if you're looking for 750 hp, why arn't you running an intercooler?
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Old 12-25-2006, 07:15 PM   #50
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I'll get one later.
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Old 12-25-2006, 07:15 PM
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