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i finally came to the point to install the belt on the d1sc i cant wait to see how the car is with the supercharger and something always comes up, anyhow, i installed the belt on the supercharger tightened the tensioner and no matter what i do 1 rib towards the balancer comes off the crank drive pulley, the pulley's all look aligned, i dont get it and i cant see what's going on, i have the belt go around the crank and the bottom of it above that fixed idler pulley then above the tensioner, around the d1sc pulley and then under the upper fixed idler, that's the correct routing?
__________________ 1986 Camaro 305 TPI Conversion, Accel Base / Runners / AFPR, Holley 52mm TB, FMS 42# Injectors, 7749 with $59 3-bar map, WP 305 S/R Torquer Heads, Crane Powermax 2032 Roller cam, CompCams 1.6 Magnum Roller Rockers, Hedman Coated Headers, Edelbrock Cat-Back, Tremec TKO-600 with CF DF Clutch, Lakewood Scattershield, Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 Posi rear, Spohn LCA's & Relocation brackets, Lakewood adj panhard. 36/24 Swaybars, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Spohn TKO Crossmember with DS Loop, Spohn Steel Driveshaft, Hotchkis Strut Brace, Eibach Pro-Kit, Tokico Illumina Struts and Shocks, Procharger D1SC 12#'s, LS1 Brakes Front, Wilwood Pro Series Rear. 381HP/400FT/LB's on 10#'s of boost
Somethings misaligned. I had the same problem once before. For me my mistake was as simple as the little spacer that goes in between the procharger bracket and the power steering bracket. The spacer is notched to go over a circular piece of the powersteering bracket. Needless to say that little millimeter difference cost me 3 belts before I figured it out.
Your belt routing sounds correct so I think you have a alignment problem.
The back of the belt should always make contact with the idler pulleys, the ribbed side should only touch the drive pulleys(crank and Blower). I agree it is an alignment issue. Put a level or a laser level on the crank pulley and see if it is perfect with the blower pulley. It sounds like the blower is sitting to far back(towards the firewall) which is causing the belt to move towards the dampner. Do you have a stock crank pulley on your car? You shouldn't have to mess with the alignment if you have stock pulleys however if you do change it move the entire Procharger bracket forward not just the blower pulley. I used machined washers because regular flat washers were barely to thick. Anyway hope this helps.
86, I battled through (3) belts...that gets expensive when you use Goodyear Gatorbacks. What I finally did was purchase a large sheet rock / contractors T-Square (Home depot has em' for around 30 bux). That T-Square is over 4ft long so you can see if the face of your blower drive pulley is square with your crank pulley. Like I said, I did this and found things were off. I used normal machine washers to level things up. I haven't shredded a belt in 3 years. BTW, using this T-Square does require you to have your fans removed.Hope this helps.
When I installed mine, ProCharger had machined a centering groove on the backside of the crank pulley spacer. The centering groove was just a bit too large to center itself properly on the factory crank pulley causing the blower crank pulley to wobble. That of course threw a few belts before I figured it out.
hmm i was just looking at it, and from eye the pullies look good, the crank pulley is centered between the first idler, i cranked it by hand and as the belt comes around the bottom idler the belt just seems to want to go back towards the damper, i cant figure it out, and that centering groove in the spacer is tight with the pulley i checked that, any more ideas? i would think if it was an alignment issue that the upper and lower part of the belt would move in a direction
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oh yeah i have stock pullies.
Last edited by 86Z; 03-21-2006 at 06:48 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Both mine and Willies did the same exact thing, we added a .030" washer behind the bracket at the top mounting bolt going into the accesory bracket/block.
Just an idea of a way to check the crank pulley. Take the belt off and start the car. Watch the crank pulley closely. If it doesn't turn 100% true, that could be your problem. BTW, I didn't have to use any washers anywhere on mine.
I've been having the same issue for almost a year (yes it's taken that long to get the damned thing finished up), I have the accessories from a 92 on my 85, so I don't have the brace that goes from the back of the alternator down to wherever it's supposed to go, so I've filled that gap with washers, but thing I'm missing a few, got it up and running, and it's gone one rib towards the balancer. I'm thinking that should straighten out with the spacers on the back of the alternator, but I'll definitely try adding one behind the PS bolt.
i had to space the 2 big spacers to get the belt to stay on, i used a nut and washers to fill the gap between the alternator as i dont have the brace neither.
If you don't mind, would you be able to take a measure of the washers and such you used to space the brace at the back of the alternator? It would really be appreciated!
Had the infamous crank pulley wobble which was starting to throw off the belt. Seemed to have corrected that with a lathe.
However, before fixing this, the head unit itself was making a loud internal rattling noise and some shaking in addition to the normal whining.
Have yet to strap it back on to see if fixing the pulleys/belt corrected the noise, but it sure didn't sound good before. Taking the unit off and spinning the blower pulley it's as quiet as can be.
Anybody experience this before?
(brand new P1sc kit)
Yep, that's exactly what it was doing. My best guess is that it was, in a sense, shocking the gears in the blower causing them to clank together making really bad noises. It's like the ribs of the belt were riding up on the edge of the pulley causing the belt to get too tight, then the ribs would fall back into place letting the blower spring back over and over again.
check my new post 
