Well the engines just about done, got all i can do done before we're ready to prime it.....just waiting on dyno time now. All I have left to do really is adjust the timing pointer. heres some crappy camera phone pics, i didn't snap any with the blower on yet, cause i forgot the damn camera. Right now it has the water pump, blower, and belt on there. Here's the blower drive hub.....this should be strong enough and with the snout extension and then with the balancer shell bolted on and here's the whole drive assembly, with the alternator pulley mandrel, blower sprocket, and PS pulley (its behind the sprocket) all bolted up......loving the 6 bolt chrysler pattern.

that motor looks hot. what kind of power you hoping to make this time around? hope you get a sound clip of that car running on the dyno.

where's the blower pics

this thread does not deliver, it should be titled blowerless-blower motor with the CRAZY pics to come later.

lol......should be well into 4 digit territory........

i'll get the other pics as soon as i can.

good deal man, cant wait to see it. what compression does that motor have by the way? how much boost are you trying to run?


i cant wait to see it installed in the car, that F1R is BIG

well it was already in the car for 2 years lol......its just re-hashed with a better block, crank, and rods..........

should make around 30psi, it was only making 20psi when i annihilated the balancer......its about 8.5:1, i think its around 6.8:1 dynamic

i just havent seen pics of the old setup

awesome man, i am liking that blower. i may consider that for my next motor build after i run a n/a 383 on some spray for a while.

they make crazy power, but they aren't cheap lol

shouldn't your dynamic cr be higher?

Ps BEAUTIFUL

^ Static compression is approximately at 8.5:1, and he's looking to run up to 30-psi of boost, which is perfect. Can't really calculate exactly where his dynamic compression should be (only he would truly know though) w/out knowing a few other details....


-Gaspar

thanks......

no not really.........in fact if you could get a bigger dish in that piston it would probably be lower.

the dynamic compression is mainly influenced by cam shaft specs anyways, and this cam was ground specifically for this application.

well you seem to know a thing or two about boost and h have been researching quite a bit on how to get an engine to work well under boost but i haven't looked int how to get an engine to support boost.

I was hoping that you could answer a few questions that i will be posting all over the place.

how much hp will a stock 355ci 2 bolt 1 piece block hold?

what fasteners should be replaced?

what is a cheep carb worth owning for a boosted application 10lbs or so?

head gaskets?

stock internals? I'm kind of guessing here, but with a safe tune, 500ish.

main cap bolts and rod bolts and heads should definitely be replaced with quality ARP hardware.

Procharger makes some entry level blow through carbs for relatively cheap.

MLS or O ring if you want to go crazy. thats my opinion though.

well, basically you should replace everything you can afford to with the strongest quality stuff possible.........some people will tell you you can make 400hp safely all stock and some (really crazy people) will tell you 700hp is fine.......

anything thats load bearing should have quality fasteners.....mains, rods, head studs etc......

don't cheap out on a carb, get a good one from csu, pro systems, or the carb shop

if you're going to make serious boost, you can get a copper gasket from SCE called the ICS (integral combustion seal) that doesnt need to be o-ringed. if you dont have a really strong short block, you'll probably want to use a conventional gasket so it'll go before the engine does.

wow you guys were much more helpful than i expected, thanks!

I will upgrade the internals eventually but definitely not at the same time as boosting it, it will cost enough for the heads, cam, rockers arms, exhaust, carb, gaskets, intercooler, bov, fasteners and what ever else I am forgetting ignition system perhaps feel free to chime in. So I will probably go for about 500 hp with the stock rev limiter until it gets internals, god only knows whats in there now but until it is forced induction time I'll probably upgrade my sig with a factory gm cam then just wait till I have all the parts. That way I'm not spending the money twice on parts that will be replaced.

very nice. I used photos of your old setup when I was deciding how to do an intercooler setup on my F-1 project. decided instead to run methanol for now can't wait to see the results from this build

thanks man.....you mean you're using methanol injection instead of an intercooler??

i'm using both hehe

What size is that CAC? It looks small for the BHP you are targeting. It has more flow potential than cooling potential. Is that why you are adding the Methanol on top of it?

Why does your sig. BHP from the MPH and ET come in around 700 RWHP, but the chasis dyno over estimate it? The new setup should go well.

the intercooler is rated at 1000hp, its a procharger one so it basically sucks.....but it came with the blower, and its free for now lol.....methanol drastically increases cooling over and above what you can achieve even with an efficient intercooler, AND it increases the apparent octane of the fuel, so its a double-pronged attack at preventing detonation....allowing you to run more timing and be safer at the same time.......insurance.

because you're bench racing lol........i've explained all the numbers 1,000,000 times, but here it is again.......

ran the car on the track, took it to the dyno like 2 days later.......had ordered 28" tires which the car is cammed/geared for but didnt have them yet so i was running on a 26" tire.

before that even became an issue, on both the dyno and the track the car was breaking up at 6500rpm (should pull to 7500) so the blower was only making 20psi (its cogged to make max boost at 7500rpm)

so then, on the track.....car wouldnt rev past 6500rpm, and with 26" tires it was out of gear before or at 1,000'.....and i had to pedal the car the last 300 or so feet......couldnt accelerate anymore because the car was redlined, so i was at 138mph well before the end of the track.........

2 days later on the dyno, i tore the balancer apart, so never got to fool with it.......it put down those numbers on the first 3 passes i ever made with it.

sure am. had originally intended to go with an intercooler, so I tore the whole front end off the car in preparation for fabbing it up. got down to it and I was trying to finish everything up before I went back to school so I decided to ditch the intercooler and run meth instead until I pulley it up later on. turns out my plans got all shot to hell and back so the car is still sitting in the shop back home waiting for some more parts


hope to finish everything up this summer and get used to the car again. then once I can get a decent drivetrain underneath it, I'll pulley it up, fab up the intercooler, and go to town

You figured out what a CAC is. I agree that it will flow for 1000 HP....it will just be putting out a lot of hot air. Yes, it does suck if they are rating it for 1000 HP. The meth. will not increase the apparent octane. It will increase the ACTUAL octane. You are confusing the BS terms from places like snow performance about apparent octane and IAT cooling. You can't go wrong with meth. and it should work great on your setup. Nozzle and pump is important.

You are the one that posted the bench racing numbers, lol. They just don't jive with each other, lol. So which one do you choose? Probably the larger one right,lol?

I hope the new engine lives longer than three passes. It has to be getting expensive to be building engines that often.

im seriously developing a distaste for you're attitude......do you actually think i read things from snow performance, and then spit them back out? they make a good setup, but much like procharger they dont know much about the actual application.

NO IT WILL NOT INCREASE the ACTUAL OCTANE, because technically speaking methanol DOES NOT HAVE AN OCTANE RATING. thats why i said apparent, because its not actual octane, although it does increase resistance to detonation......so cut the pseudo-intellectual BS.

i didnt post any bench racing numbers you a**hat.......i posted chassis dyno numbers, do a search and find the graphs, im pretty sure i posted all of them......and then i posted what it ran at the track given the conditions.

you're the bench racer in here, because you're the one that took numbers off someone signature and apparently plugged them into some intarw3b cool guy "this is how much power this MPH means" calculator then questioned it as a result. whats this choice of numbers your talking about?

you troll this forum constantly and try to shine you're almighty light down and forcefully espouse your percieved boost-knowledge superiorty......i've seen it multiple times. I'm sorry you feel foolish for making an assumption without knowing all the facts, next time maybe pay attention.....because its been talked about in at least 10 threads, see that search button?? use it

the old engine didnt break, the balancer deformed and damaged the crank snout........so i rebuilt the whole thing much tougher than before while it was apart.......if you had paid attention you also would have seen threads about that, with pictures of exactly what happened.....and you wouldnt be making asinine statements about things you failed to read before now.
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sounds like fun project man, those unforseen things always happen and they multiply with forced air motors.......

what sized headers and exhaust are you running with that motor?

the headers are 1-3/4" primaries with 3" collectors, and dual 3" exhaust.......i might gain some power on the top end with a 2" primary.....but plug access is already tough, and i'd most likely lose some scavenging at lower RPM

do you feel the 3inch pipe is enough? i would think something with that much power may need more flow like a 3.5 inch dual system

most people in the know don't seem to think so, but you can't really tell unless you try it.....it'd take up an awful lot of room though

yeah thats a definate issue...there aint much room under these cars. i am trying to do either true dual 3in or run it into a single 4inch. I plan to notch my frame but reinforce it as best i can. i couldnt imagine trying to fit dual 3.5 or dual 4". Makes me wonder tho what i really need, if your 1000whp car runs dual 3", i plan to make about half that power on the bottle

Very nice keep us updated

Relax, relax.......ease up on the coffee. I would be upset too if I built a nice engine and the crank few apart after 3 runs.

I do think you read up on Snow Perf. and the others.......that is how know the kit is "good". It is the same pump pretty much everyone else sells. Kits have basic pieces from hardware supply houses.


C'mon man, just admit your are wrong and move on. It DOES have an octane rating. Here is some "pseudo-intellectual BS", lol for you: http://dnr.louisiana.gov/sec/execdiv...p/auto/m/m.htm. Try and stay calm while you read it. Where did you get the "apparent octane" thing......just dream it up yourself or read it somewhere?

Your car doesn't obey the laws of Physics? Chasis dyno numbers are not corrected or adjusted? The roller thingy sensors go to a computer ya know and it does some math stuff to come up with an HP number.

Thanks for the kind words. Go back and read my methanol octane rating thing. You're welcome.

Most of the time I ignore non-sense posts. I usually try to help people in need or when people post incorrect info. like the methanol stuff.

I see a turbo in your future. You couldn't fix the deformed crank with some JB-Weld? Good luck with the new engine.

thanks for proving my point

the crank didnt break....it didnt deform....it didnt fly apart, one of the key ways got a little squished because the supercharger annihilated the billet steel balancer hub (ati damper)......ati said "wow, we've never seen anything like that before, we'll credit you for it for the blower hub you want"

i didnt post anything incorrect, i used totally correct english to describe what i was talking about.....methanol is not provided with an octane rating.....tons of people "estimate" what the "octane" of methanol is....thats why i said "apparent"

now im going to make you look like the fool you are.

the correction factors for those dyno numbers were standard SAE.....smoothing was 0.......read 827.08hp

pulling out the winpep7......

conditions for that pull were......46.11degrees F, 19% humidity, and barometer was 29.39

UNCORRECTED IT MADE 859.84hp

once again, that what happens when you open your mouth without having any real information.

Cool.......another number. Any of these numbers supposed to mean anything, lol? OK, I will leave this thread alone because there isn't much tech. data here.

You "squished" the crank? You don't call that deformed? Did you tell ATI that you "squished" the crank? Ah, now the octane is an "estimate" and not "apparent", lol. OK, I will stop now because we are just clogging up the thread with nothing at this point.

dude you're a joke......what do you want from me? do you want to show up on your door step and dyno my car in your living room? what numbers is that that you want?

YOU'RE THE ONE THAT CALLED FOR THE UNCORRECTED NUMBER, AND IT MADE YOU LOOK LIKE A FOOL. hmmm....weird, so when i showed that you were a) wrong and b) making uneducated assumptions....you change your opinion AND NOW NUMBERS ARE MEANINGLESS ALL TOGETHER. highly predictable.

it slighly pushed one side of one of the keyways, whats your point? that powerful engines break parts? once again, because you're too lazy or inept to actually read what happened, i'll take your apathy as a resolve to ignorance.

here ya go chief

i dont see whats so hard to understand here.. sure 827whp doesnt "add" up to 138mph traps, it should be more.... But thats on a good run, not a gear limited short tire run where your peaked out at the 1000 foot mark and not getting in a clean run.

its also a stick, and i dont powershift it (cause i like the trans IN the car)

so even full out the calculators that people use, wouldnt come out right.......thats the worst kind of bench racing, relying on "averages" and online calculators before actual results lol.

most online calcs are off for my high 12 and low 13 second runs... and i know the exact race weight and hp at the wheels.... i cant imagine how far it could be off for a 9-10 second pass

we race tracks, not dynos or calculators

ya....the car ran what it ran.......it ran REALLY slow for the power it made.....but theres obvious reasons why.

Any timeline of when it will all be completed and ready to run/dyno?

it is all completed.....they started re-doing the dyno room like 2 weeks ago, as soon as its done they're gonna dyno like 3 normal engines, they don't want my engine to be the 1st one on there when they just put it all back together lol.

so probably a couple weeks, im gonna call tomorrow and see how they're doing

good deal, vids and updates appreciated cant wait to see the numbers

Cant wait to see the numbers kev.

I love reading about your build up(s). Can I ask why you went with a carb and not EFI?

Thanks,

Robert

thanks man......it's simpler and cheaper basically.....plus with a carb, because of the atomization of the fuel in the intake (wet manifold vs. dry efi plenum) it has a significant cooling effect due to the pressure differential across the carb, and the heat of vaporization of the fuel......so you can actually squeeze a little more boost and timing safely than you can with the same setup only EFI instead of carbd.

and at WOT, a well-tuned carb, and EFI do exactly the same thing anyways.......at part throttle EFI is far superior due to all the parameters you can tune....better driveability etc......but it would have been around 4,000 bucks more expensive to do

i do believe the fastest street car in america is a blow thru carb F1 charged big block

If you get a good carb, one thats worked over by a good carb shop, driveability should still be great.