Thought you guys might be interested to see the progress I have made on the new project drag car and engine combo. Engine Specs: 415 c.i.d CNC Bowtie block with filler Forged Callies crank Lunati Pro-Mod rods Custom JE blower pistons with high pressure degassing holes Custom Cam Motion solid roller camshaft T&D shaft rocker setup AFR Eliminator 210cc aluminum cylinder heads (thanks to Carl @ AEC 360cfm) Custom Hogans sheet metal intake manifold Procharger F-2 cog driven supercharger Custom Spearco Air-to-Water Intercooler NOS direct port sportsman fogger (Methonol for enrichment fuel) FAST WB sequential EFI controller (8 EGTs, Dual WB O2s, touchscreen, etc.) Car specs: 1992 Camaro Z28 700R4 tansmission Strange 9" with spool Custom sub frames 12 pt roll cage welded to sub frames Competition Engineering ladder bars Passenger air bag Factory sumped fuel tank Duel Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pumps Enough cockpit guages for an airplane cockpit Engine dyno run: 873 HP @ 6250 / 911 lbft @ 5200 SAE corrected with 14 psi boost 1121 HP @ 6400 / 1052 lbft @ 5350 SAE corrected with 175 shot

that look great. thanks for more motivations to get mine done.
im doing a t88 turbo and 357" sbc afr210 eleminator heads. on e85
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hey how much was the t@d shaft setup. do you have the part number.
i have the same afr heads.
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oh yea are they a 1.6 or 1.7 rocker ratio

T&D shaft rocker info for AFR cylinder heads:
http://www.tdmach.com/page6-7.shtml
Mine don't actually have a P.N. as I went with a larger roller pin and a different stand bolt size. Yours would be P.N. 2311

Cost depends on a lot of factors. They have various ratios, rocker profiles, and roller tips. Mine were $1220 or so.
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As for the ratio, that would give some info away on the cam profile. I will say, however, that for valvetrain geometry and longevity smaller ratio arms would be better for high reving combos. Hope that helps.

Wow! Awesome numbers man! Looks like a plumbing nightmare though! lol.
BTW just curious, is that a rec. valve or like a bov threaded into your intake? If it is, I thought they were meant to be mounted between the throttle blades and compressor?? J/W!!!

The red Procharger BOV is not threaded into the intake manifold. I just have it sitting on top until I find the best place for it. I tentatively plan to plumb it into the intake elbow going to the throttle body pointing towards the firewall.

As far as the plumbing goes, yes it has been a nightmare, but I am sure my absurd addiction to AN fittings and no rubber hose has a lot to do with it. Thanks for the compliments.

How many more lbs of boost do you think you'll be able to run? If you get up closer to 20, that 175 shot should shell out some serious +.

my cam is a .626 /.626 lift with a 1.5 264/268dur at .050 and a 114 lc.
with a 1.7 shaft rocker i can get .709 lift. i wanted to shift arround 7800-8000.

Batass,
Not really sure. I have the pullies to drive up to 22-27 psi, but I would rather keep impeller speed low and reduce the load on the head unit. However, I do have plans with the A-to-W intercooler to turn the boost up with c-114 and really push the limits of the block. Your absolutely right about spray adding more than the advertised hit when used in conjunction with a blower. With a 175hp shot I gained 250hp at the flywheel.

Matt,
Blown vehicles don't need as much lift as high compression naturally aspirated engines. Spinning an engine beyond 7500 rpm significantly reduces its longevity, not to mention the crazy valve spring geometry you will have with that much lift (hope you have an above average machine shop doing the work). For blown engines, duration and LSA play a bigger part in power production. Keep in mind, with the kind of lift you are wanting, adequate valve to piston clearance, proper rocker to valve tip geometry, and springs with crazy seat pressures will be needed. You should also consider Ti (titanium) retainers and light weight valves to reduce the reciprocating valvetrain mass--this will go a long way to ensure you can rev the engine up to 7500 rpm without valve float.

I personally have replaced the AFR intake valves with 2.055" Manley SevereDuty 8mm SS pieces, the exhaust with inconel (which are able to regularly handle the 1200+*F exhaust temps the engine produce) 1.65" AFR replacements. I use beehive springs with Ti retainers and a T&D shaft rocker setup to increase valvetrain stability.

Matt,
Here are some pics of the T&D shaft rocker setup.

Batass,
I would also consider integrating a burst panel into your intake manifold. I had Hogans integrate an adjustable burst panel into lower passenger side of the intake plenum. The adjusting nuts increase spring pressure and likewise the internal pressure necessary to open the gate. Just a thought given the added insurance it provides. (Wilson also makes some that can be adapted to virtually any intake manifold)

mine are 2.08 1.6 im planing on doing titanium retaners and locks, inconel exh valves and maybe some add clearance for the exh guide. hopefully this will make enough power down low i wont have to turn it to the moon. but if i have to i will. most turbo guys are shifting low rpm arround 7000 or evan 6500. and that would be good so long as its pulling hard and isint loosing mph on the big end. im planing on runnin a 28x12.5 tire and i dont know how much power ill get it to hold. with a 9 in ill proably start arround a 3.70 gear and im gettinga 3.23 just to see the diff in rpm.
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what did you say the part number was for the shafts? i forgot. you can emial me again i acidently deleted it.

Its in the beginning of the post?????

P.N. 2311 for the AFR 220cc heads.

lookin good!

Thanks. Its been a long time coming and I am looking foward to track trashing the car in October. I will be developing two fuel tunes; one for c-114 and one for 91 octane. I was hoping to develop 800 rwhp with 91 octane to make those morning commutes to work a little quicker.

Max power lean with the c-114 and max rich with the 91?

wow thats nasty. After i play with this 383 i just made i am thinking of going to a 415 or so motor with a blower/turbo. not sure yet. But i definately want some big numbers.

Nice job so far, it looks incredible

Thanks. I am still holding out hope that it will all fit under the stock hood for that ultra nasty sleeper image. I am still working on where to mount a few items like the oil breather tanks, MSD 10+, 10+ coil, FAST accelerometer module, and FAST EGT module. I like the symetry of mounting an oil breather tank on the DS and PS firewall but space as at a premium on the DS. I also need to figure out how to make clearance for the blower air filter as the master cylinder proportioning valve is in the way now. I am seriously considering swapping over to manual brakes and doing away with the vacuum assist brake booster all together. Any thoughts?

I have a master cyl from a Honda riceburner. I have to give it a quick pump if I have to slam on the brakes but it cleaned up my engine compartment. It'll stop the car if thats what you're wondering.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7...nturbo2oy2.jpg
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did you use high-temp engine paint in the engine compartment? that **** is hard to keep clean when working on the car. I guess the high temp stuff you dont need but I did..

BTW, you'll have to modify the pedal linkage also to get it to work correctly with the Honda master cyl. its a pain in the butt but it looks good.

Interesting. Great looking engine bay. I always appreciate a clean installation, the clinical/sterile look always makes it nicer to work on. Assuming it has been laid out right. Can you provide any additional info on the brake conversion? What parts if any did you reuse? I also noticed you don't have a windshield wiper motor. Can you get past your state inspection without it? I was dreading having to put it back on.

Nice nbrs

/N.

i would suggest not using a 10 series box and coil they get to hot for anything longer than 1/4 mile passes.
why not run the programable digital 7 with a hvc2 coil for 7 seris ing. thats what im going to run. you can control ind cyl timing and ind cyl retard. with adj from .25 per lb boost. and will live all day long on a fun street car thats mostly track use.

Good point. I actually still have an old MSD 6AL box that I will be running for light duty street use. I have the MSD coil selector setup to switch between the two boxes and will use a toggle mounted in the dash to activate one box over the other. I have been told about the heat issues associated with the 10+ boxes under continuous use. Bear in mind, with all the ignition control the FAST system provides, a fully adjustable 7-series ignition would be redundant. In sequential operation, the FAST system provides me with the same adjustability a 7+ series ignition would. I appreciate the suggestion though.

if you can get the same multiple spark and same 20 deg of crank rotation fire out of the fast. then that is all you need.
their are some killer fast cars with just a digital 7 box.
heck. lutz had one barnhill has one still i believe and luts is a 6 sec car and barnill is a 7 sec car

I just noticed this... how did you get 360cfm out of those heads?? I want to call BS on that as that is higher than some of the big LSx heads and 18 degree small block heads. that is unheard of. I mean the comp ported head only does 312 cfm

ETP 255cc LS7 heads only flow 360cfm at .675 lift

I highly doubt you have 360 cfm...was that suppose to be 306??

^ SB2.2 SBC Heads Flow 374/272 @ .700 & 380/276 @ .800....

.... oh and 364/264 @ .600

RocZ,

My bad, 354cfm isn't quite 360, but in my book its close enough. These eliminator heads are a version of the 210cc (slightly larger port) but have a raised intake port. My new heads actually flowed 326cfm @ .700 and 341 @.750 right out of the box. Minor port roof work yielded 354cfm @.700. To your point though, these heads flow quite well and seeing is believing. I am sorry if the numbers are too high for you to believe. You might drop Tony Mamo at AFR a line, given this head is due to release this quarter as the replacement for the 220cc head (new version is 215cc if I recall correctly). I doubt it really matters though, given I will not exceed .700" of lift with my current solid roller cam.

Matt,
I think we both know the FAST EFI setup still requires an ignition box, so it alone does not have all the features you were pointing out with respect to the MSD 7 box. I was just saying the FAST unit allows me to map boost with repect to timing so the boost retard function of the 7-series box isn't needed. Given I am running sequential injection, I have individual cylinder control (fuel & timing) so again a fancy ignition box with these features isn't really needed. I have the 10 series ignition as a safety factory for full out runs and will be using the 6-series box for light loadstreet cruisng.

yeah i've heard of the 215 raised runner head but i didnt know they were good to over .700 lift. 354 out of those heads just seems hard to believe to me

And if your not using .700 lift cam then whats the point of the heads? Use the flow potential!

Well yeah, that illustration was just used to show that SBC heads can flow just as good, if not better, than LSX heads. But I agree though, symmetry of parts & velocity of air is definitely the key, there's really no need for that much lift on a boosted motor....

that i already know but still doesnt negate the fact that a traditional 23 degree head for a SBC is outdoing 11 degree TALL BIGGER LSx ports. I just didnt think it was possible for that 210cc runner (who knows what it is ported) to flow like a LSX 255cc 11 degree head. The whole reason they make those angled heads is to get more flow. I guess it just shows how well the new AFR castings are doing

I'm a fan of lift if the heads support it. Run less boost/less rpm and use your head flow to make up for the difference. if you cut out 30-40 cfm of flow from a lower lift cam, you'll have to make up for it by feeding more boost.

I asked Gene (the guy who did the fabrication, basically built the car...)

"I had to meke a bracket that bolted to the firewall, using the 4 booster mount bolts and a big hole in the middle for the rod to go through. A 2nd bolt pattern was drilled to match the MC's pattern. I think one of the firewall mounts is also a MC mount.
Then there's the angle of the plate in relation to the firewall. I had to shim the bottom of the plate to raise the angle of the MC.
After all of that hassle, there was no way to take the "twist" out of the mounting position. The MC had to be rotated for all of the mounting holes to line up w/o butchering the firewall. I'm sure there was an easier way, but I didn't have to cut the car to make it work."

i know my elem afrs flowed arround low 300s as well. way good for a 210 runner. and made the truck way faster too. and thats good enough for me.

kendol did you order your heads from afr with the incolel valves ?
i wonder if they would do that.?
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those sb2 heads are bad a##
if i ever build a new turbo setup id like to do a set of the cfe cantedvalve old pro stock truck heads. thos things cranked out over 1000 hp on motor.
and they have some setup for boost.
but if i ever did do that i would deff be converting over to FI from fast. like kendol

Wow i am Jelous. Good luck.

after a while running the carb. im thinking of getting a fast or big stuff setup.
did you buy yours as a kit . i saw in my national dragster that they now offer kits. xfi box dual sync dist inj and rails, harness but shows no prices