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Going to be pulling the HX35 off of my truck in the near future to make way for something thats going to push a little more air. The HX35 is capable of blowing enough air to keep the fire going up to around 500hp in my truck (at the cost of blowing hot air and crazy drive pressures!) but im not sure how its going to work on a gasser...
Cummins/holset claims the HX35 is good for up to 280hp on 5-6.5L diesel engines... Its actually good to mid 300s without pushing it too far
Any turbo gurus out there that can lend a hand?
It would be a laugh to pop this on the car and go blow something up...
two of them might make a fun project, but one is just a restriction everywhere.
__________________ 2011 chicago world of wheels placed in super street class
Best Engine '11 Thirdgenfest
Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '05, '07, '11 Second place Camaro Modified '06, '08, & '10
MFBA March 2008 Featured Calendar Vehicle
That HX35 should have a comp. inducer in the mid-50 mm range. That should peak around 45 - 50 lb/min in the 14 - 20 psig range. That translates to about 450 - 500 bhp (engine hp).
With a little bit of methanol spray and 15 PSIg it should be around 500 bhp. It is maxing out the turbo on the high end, but should spool extremely fast on the low side.
the hx35 has a 12cm housing dosent it.thats = to a t3 .63 ,dam that thing would spool just off idle on a 350ci motor and would deff make a very fun street turbo.
to give u an idea a .63 housing on my old 173ci motor spooled at around 2,900 rpms
the hx35 has a 12cm housing dosent it.thats = to a t3 .63 ,dam that thing would spool just off idle on a 350ci motor and would deff make a very fun street turbo.
to give u an idea a .63 housing on my old 173ci motor spooled at around 2,900 rpms
I think most HX35 turbines are a T3 sized flange. I can't imagine a compressor that size have such a small turbine A/R. I would expect it to be in the .90 A/R or larger range. On a diesel I would guess it must be 1.00 A/R or larger. Did you measure the actual A/R? I don't trust the cm to A/R conversion for the Holset units floating around the web. I always measure the turbine A/R on the Holset turbines to get the actual A/R.
the hx35's off the 6cyl dodges as far as i could find have the eqiv of the t3 .63 im not sure bout the ones of the larger motors though, the mustang 4 banger guys use the hx35's of the 6 cyl dodges
You will find all kinds of info on the web. A lot of it is incorrect. Some say the HX35 12 turbine is the equiv. of .84 A/R, some say 1.10 A/R, some say .63 A/R. One needs to actually measure the unit they have.
The HX35 series came with various comp. wheels. One needs to measure which one/unit they have.
it is the stock 12cm housing on it... I have some more info on it somewhere, ill look it up.
This is my sled during the install... Got a few little goodies done to it
the engine is a 2006 Powertek 800, ported+polished, coated slugs, billet head and a few other little tricks...
It spools around 4500rpm (way more than reasonable for a sled!) and capable of pushing the sled past 300Hp at a reasonable 15psi though i usually keep it less than 10psi to tame it down for playing around plus i can get avgas a hella lot cheaper than race fuel!
Very nice job on the layout and attention to detail.
Typically a CHRA needs about 30 PSI of oil pressure. Did you measure the PSI and flow before installing the turbo?
Are you scavenging the turbo oil return with a pump or is it just gravity feed? The oil outlet looks like it would need a pump.
How did you run the coolant lines? I am looking into putting flow restrictors on the bike for the turbo coolant lines. I am worried about robbing too much coolant from the cyl. head to feed to the turbo. Actually, I am worried about the same thing with the oil going to the turbo. I will know more once I do some testing.
EDIT: Are those carbs? What are you running for a fuel pump to get the 6+15 = 21PSI of fuel pressure?
Very nice job on the layout and attention to detail.
Typically a CHRA needs about 30 PSI of oil pressure. Did you measure the PSI and flow before installing the turbo?
Are you scavenging the turbo oil return with a pump or is it just gravity feed? The oil outlet looks like it would need a pump.
How did you run the coolant lines? I am looking into putting flow restrictors on the bike for the turbo coolant lines. I am worried about robbing too much coolant from the cyl. head to feed to the turbo. Actually, I am worried about the same thing with the oil going to the turbo. I will know more once I do some testing.
EDIT: Are those carbs? What are you running for a fuel pump to get the 6+15 = 21PSI of fuel pressure?
Still tinkering on the oiling system, havent actually measured the oil pressure off of it but its rigged up to a pressure switch (10psi) and dummy light and its got enough pressure to turn off the light! IIRC the pump is good for 2L/min... The pumps are garbage though, dont last too long so im looking into alternatives, their is one guy that modifies oil injection pumps to use for turbo feed but they are costly!
Oil outlet is gravity feed, hard to see it but its installed in the first pic, 3/8" line straight shot to the top of the oil res. Seems to be sufficient, i havent had any issues with it blowing out the seals yet!
The coolant lines originally ran to the heated carbs, basically now the turbo takes the place of the carbs in the loop. The barbed fitting that screws into the cyl head actually has a reduced oriface to restrict flow, IIRC its something in the range of 1/16th"
Yes it is carbed, 2x mikuni TM38s slightly modified and powerjets added. Fuel pump is an automotive 12v inline style and pressure is regulated via a 1:1 boost refrenced regulator (mounted just above the carbs)
Still tinkering on the oiling system, havent actually measured the oil pressure off of it but its rigged up to a pressure switch (10psi) and dummy light and its got enough pressure to turn off the light! IIRC the pump is good for 2L/min... The pumps are garbage though, dont last too long so im looking into alternatives, their is one guy that modifies oil injection pumps to use for turbo feed but they are costly!
I think I see how you have it setup now. The alum. tank looks to be a remote oil tank for the turbo. The pump under the turbo feeds the turbo inlet. It looks like an aftermarket pump and one that you say doesn't last too long. Where did you purchase the pump? You probably have come across RB Racing and their turbo stuff for small engines (and their ignorance about how great their setups are). What are the two large black lines on top of the oil tank? They look like coolant lines to cool the turbo oil.
The bike I plan on doing has enough oil pressure. I just need to limit the flow so I don't rob too much oil from the cyl / top end. Mcmaster-Carr has various size flow restrictors I can use and measure what I have for pressure and flow. I need to look at the bottom end to figure out where to return the oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 84z28350
Oil outlet is gravity feed, hard to see it but its installed in the first pic, 3/8" line straight shot to the top of the oil res. Seems to be sufficient, i havent had any issues with it blowing out the seals yet!
The return setup looks fine to me. You have enough return line angle and the sump looks plenty big enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 84z28350
The coolant lines originally ran to the heated carbs, basically now the turbo takes the place of the carbs in the loop. The barbed fitting that screws into the cyl head actually has a reduced oriface to restrict flow, IIRC its something in the range of 1/16th"
You probably could have even went in series with the carbs for the coolant lines. That is how I did my twin T3 setup on a 305ci engine. The coolant comes out of the throttle body and feeds the turbos. The turbo coolant outlet goes to the heater core. The nice part is a faster heater core warm up in the winter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 84z28350
Yes it is carbed, 2x mikuni TM38s slightly modified and powerjets added. Fuel pump is an automotive 12v inline style and pressure is regulated via a 1:1 boost refrenced regulator (mounted just above the carbs)
I like seeing the carb setups. It amazes me how well they can work. I decided I am going to remove the carbs on the bike. I picked up a set of Honda CBR600RR throttle bodies (4x - 38mm each). I plan on using only two of them along with a Walbro GL393 (stock Ford OEM external fuel pump). I haven't decided on the FPR, but it will be a stock 1:1 type. I think I might modify the code of a GM 427 ECM (stock 1995-up truck ECM) and use that to control the spark and fuel. Maybe use a MS-II if the code gets too ugly. The turbo is a IHI RHB5 unit (30.5mm inducer, 38 trim). The engine is a 250cc twin cylinder.......the calcs say it won't spool until about 7,000 RPM. It redlines at 13,000 RPM. It should be interesting.
junk what about a gt12??? they sell on ebay all thetime for about 100$'s or less
I have been looking for a long time and have never seen a Garrett GT12 for less than $400 in used condition. The China copy of the GT12 still seem to fetch $350 shipped. Where have you seen the Garrett GT12 units in the low $100's range? Post a link if you seen one.
I would rather have a GT12 than the RHB5 I have. The RHB5 was less than $100 shipped so I bought it. All the bearings are good.
i just looked and theres a new garrett gt12 on there but its 500, everynow and then i see a used one pop up i check ebay every 2 days so ill keep an eye out for ya
I think I see how you have it setup now. The alum. tank looks to be a remote oil tank for the turbo. The pump under the turbo feeds the turbo inlet. It looks like an aftermarket pump and one that you say doesn't last too long. Where did you purchase the pump? You probably have come across RB Racing and their turbo stuff for small engines (and their ignorance about how great their setups are). What are the two large black lines on top of the oil tank? They look like coolant lines to cool the turbo oil.
Vent/Fill lines, Its a Greylor brand pump. Havent come across RB racing yet, ill have to take a look there now...
The bike I plan on doing has enough oil pressure. I just need to limit the flow so I don't rob too much oil from the cyl / top end. Mcmaster-Carr has various size flow restrictors I can use and measure what I have for pressure and flow. I need to look at the bottom end to figure out where to return the oil.
The return setup looks fine to me. You have enough return line angle and the sump looks plenty big enough.
Like i say, hasnt been an issue with the oiling system, other than the pump.
You probably could have even went in series with the carbs for the coolant lines. That is how I did my twin T3 setup on a 305ci engine. The coolant comes out of the throttle body and feeds the turbos. The turbo coolant outlet goes to the heater core. The nice part is a faster heater core warm up in the winter.
Nope! The carb heaters are very rarely ever needed on a stock sled let alone one with a turbo pushing warm air into them! The carb heaters cannot be left on or the carbs will 'overheat'
I like seeing the carb setups. It amazes me how well they can work. I decided I am going to remove the carbs on the bike. I picked up a set of Honda CBR600RR throttle bodies (4x - 38mm each). I plan on using only two of them along with a Walbro GL393 (stock Ford OEM external fuel pump). I haven't decided on the FPR, but it will be a stock 1:1 type. I think I might modify the code of a GM 427 ECM (stock 1995-up truck ECM) and use that to control the spark and fuel. Maybe use a MS-II if the code gets too ugly. The turbo is a IHI RHB5 unit (30.5mm inducer, 38 trim). The engine is a 250cc twin cylinder.......the calcs say it won't spool until about 7,000 RPM. It redlines at 13,000 RPM. It should be interesting.