hi , i want to put some power adder in my 88 camaro but the problem is i dont have alot of money, and i just dont kno wat 2 put in !!

u gotta pay to play

got to make her a dope feind...get 100hp shot nitrous kit... no better bang for ur buck then N20

^^^^^ Just do it right. Do it wrong and your car will be making ZERO power.

well my budget is like 500$ but idk wat to put in notin 2 crazy this is my everyday driver, any suggestions


and whoever said gotta pay 2 play didnt read wat i wrote i put cheap 4 a reason cuz i werk and go 2 school , so keep that to yourself

The only power adder in the 500 dollar price range is Nitrous. A supercharger or turbo will cost minimum 3000 dollars, unless you search ebay and find one of them cheap twin turbo kits made in japan for like 800 bucks!

nos

Squirt it at 2500 with a 100 shot and say hello to 500 ft lbs. Goodbye to stock tires.

Good luck in shool.

Thats a really bad atitude to bring to this forum. He had a legitimate point dont disrespect him for it. Just because you have a budget dosnt mean all the prices are gona drop for yoy.



Lol Have you ever seen a turbo kit from japan for $800? For any car? I dont think so. If somone over there actualy made a kit for the 3rd gen F body I can promise you it will come at a premium price.

It would proabably be worth it too. With the level of competition over there japanese tuners dont stay in business if they produce cheap crap.

its not produced in japan i dont think but there is a turbo kit on ebay for between 800-1000 bucks but its junk id say...stick with nitrous it will make u very happy with just a 100 shot ull get hooked but do it right... o yeah and ls six dont preach to him about bad attitudes saigon bob should have kept his comment to himself it was not constructive at all...

They do make a turbo kit on ebay for 800 bucks. But its a universal one and the quality is horrible. Check it out

The ebay turbo kit for $800 is made in China.
Garrett turbochargers..........Japan based.

Still in school with not much money, but still want to go fast.............a cheap wet nitrous kit. I got a never used NX wet kit for around $450 in the classifieds. I am sure you can find something like that here, on ebay, or another car forum.

No offense but what he is saying is dead on. I think what he was trying to say is if you put garbage in you'll get garbage out. As for what I would do with $500?

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Just me though.

I dont think nitrous is what he's really after. Is he really looking for the last one or two tenths? Has he driven the car on the strip enough to have reached the cars current limit?

It's not like you can dip in to the nitrous pulling up an on ramp or passing a truck. It's pretty worthless on the street.


Oh and igotta... when someone comes on a forum and asks for advice and gets sound logical and relevant advice it's rude to tell that person off.

Honestly going to a power adder without knowing the full potential of wat u already have gets pretty useless. The only way to make it worth it is to have a goal already set for the track or dyno then go from there. Other than that just do the basic cam changes, head porting, and exhaust stuff. Trust me from there u will find out that its true... U gotta pay to play. Im sure he didnt mean any disrespect by that at all. Nitrous is the cheapest route by far but it also takes a nice supporting cast to handle it and make sure it lives. If u just want the nitrous anyway start off with a 50-75hp shot then go up from there if u insist

again lol.

ok he said power adder witch usually translates to one of 3 things nitrous, turbo, or supercharger. the cheapest way is nitrous. as for its usefullness on the street ur right its pretty uselsess unless u want to get into trouble of mess crap up..... now i wasnt telling u off i was just pointing out that what saigon bob said had absolutly no help in it and was pointless. im pretty sure he knows that to go fast cost good money in fact its implied by the fact that he asked for a cheap power adder....ulitmately if he just wants to free up some power then yeah the exhaust system is the best deal. but for most power for ur dollar its nitrous all the way...

I agree with bang for your buck, I just think he'd be happier with the exhaust cause it's useable all the time from idle to max rpm, and you don't need to refill it lol.

ur absolutely right i think he should go with the exhaust its just like i said he said power adder and when i hear that people are usually talking forced induction or juice so thats where my head went. go fo the exhaust first wont be huge gains but will be helpful overall and if he ever does put the juice on it its best to have a good free flowing exhaust...

A complete exhaust kit for around $500 that will give about 20-30 HP, or a N20 kit for $500 that will give around 100 - 150HP. HHhhhmmm, I guess that is why this is the power adder forum.

It'll Be a lot more expensive than 500 beans when he sprays and prays.

Is he gonna be installing it himself? Don't know much until he posts again with HIS opinion.

The only ones that pray are the ones that don't read the directions and install it properly. We shouldn't assume he is a fool that can't read a 2 page description of how to install it, test, and tune it.

I know many that say nitrous "blows-up" engines. All have seen it improperly (hacked) installed and then not tested properly. Finally, they get to see it destroy an engine. An improper oil change can "blow up" his engine also..........but no is telling him to never change his oil fearing that he might do it wrong.

the greatest truth i have ever heard on the subject....

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for nitrous, and love it when people say it's "cheating" or that it kills motors. Just like forced induction, if you do it wrong you pay for it. I like nitrous for its versatility, and mainly because of its price. And seriously, if you run it correctly you'll most likely be fine. Most around where I live hook up a 10 lbs. bottle to a civic with a shiny new crome exhaust and juice it in v-tec effectively making a 2500 lbs. paper weight. Funny to watch, although I do feel bad for the poor kids lol.

LOL ^ Hondas arnt as common around here as they were in Utah. We used to go to RMR just to see the hondas pop! Or eject turbine chunks from the can muffler.

There were plenty of domestics and nice imports to entertain once the bits of honda were swept up.

I have never in my life seen so many 3rd gen RX-7's in one place and I never seen one break on the strip. It's all in the tune.

He's in California, he cant use those non-street-legal headers. He's gotta have something like the Hooker 2055's.

$500 doesnt go very far in the performance world anymore. I would keep that $500 and use it on something useful, like repairing something when it breaks so you're not left without a ride.

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Owned.

Definitely have to go with calamita's recommendation of exhaust first. The stock really restricts a 350.

And what's the condition of the motor? How many miles? If it's not in great shape (running really well, no leaks, good compression, etc.) a power adder might be money wasted ... not just money wasted, but a cause to spend more money in the near future. If you have a POS under your hood, adding power is only going to make it blow faster.

Also, what's the condition of the 700r4? Put a lot of power behind a tired 700r4, and it's a ticking time bomb.

What's your rear-end? Probably a 2.77? Swapping that gear ratio will give you a lot more punch. It won't give you more HP, but it will make your car quicker in short distances, which is the desired end-result anyway, right?

My recommendation in a nutshell:

Either go exhaust, save your money for inevitable repairs (unless you have no problems whatsoever out of your motor right now), or save your money to get a really nice power adder later on. I know you don't want to hear this, but it's the logical thing to do.

I like the exhaust idea but I would also have to say open up the intake side. With a budget of 5 bills, I wouldn't drop in the juice quite yet. The kit itself will be close to that and yet you need a bottle warmer, pressure gauge, and if you use it alot, a progressive controller.

plus with nitrous your gonna be dumping money into it everytime your bottle is empty you shoulp just save up for a full time power adder IMO

I like how you all say Yea you should get nitrous... If i was responsible and on a budget, going to school and trying to hook up my DD i wouldnt touch a power adder... ESP not N2O,

The iniatial buy in is cheap but in the long run it is expensive.

If the car is your only form of transport you are beating the hell outta it with spray. And roll the dice wrong and you just nuked your : motor, tranny, Dshaft, rearend.

say the motor doesnt blow up. you are killing the rings... come on guys...

Let me just say this to clarify... I have easy over $7500 in my set up and i wouldnt be surprised if it was close to 8k-9k. My car is quick but im not happy with how it turned out.

My friend bought a nice fairly stock Z and is in school. I told him to leave it alone or he wont be driving it much...

well he drove it for about two weeks and decided to start changing things. HSR set up, megasquirt, etc.... he got pissed when it didnt run right and ended up pulling the motor for a 383 and traded me his HSR and megasquirt for my carb set up.

That ran for maybe a week and broke the timing chain.


Honestly the most responsible thing to do if you NEED your car and are on a tight budget is leave well enough alone. and concentrate on improving your driving skills.

I know for a fact having a fast car and sucking at the line = lose everytime.

My car is quicker on the street than known mid to low 13's cars and at the strip i suck and fall on my face.

Even with all the smog equipment on if the parts arnt stock and dont have DOT approval then it's not legal..


Yes. Power is limmited by flow no matter what power adder you use.

The stock exhaust and intake will limit the amount of nitrous you can use before reversion becomes an issue. When that happens theres the chance that a cloud of nitrous oxygen and fuel can accumulate somewhere in theintake tract and possibly ignite. If you have a MAF sensor you can pretty much kiss that good by along with your intake piping and any number of things.

Thats one of the main reasons the kits come rated at 50-100 HP. A stock motor can handle 200+ no problem but the kits are supposed to work with stock cars with out issue.

Exactly. Aftermarket companies are forced to pay millions to get they're product DOT approved (it's a scam by the way), but regardless, if it isn't DOT approved, it's not legal. For example, I can easily hook up a fully functional remote mount EGR for any HSR, but this does not make it legal in the EPA's eyes though, EPA would be like; "show me da money"....

I got you one better... "50 State Legal" isnt really that. State laws can supercede that.

In FL any modified exhaust is illegal, even if it has a CARB E.O. #

I got one even better for you; in New Jersey, if the exhaust "sounds" too loud to the individual handling the inspection, even with the noise level being nowhere near the state allowed decibel, they can still mark it as rejected, and you can't fight it....

I wish I had friends like that. I have plenty of carbs/intakes to trade for HSR and megasquirt ECM units. Let me know if you come across anyone else looking to trade.

lol ill make you a good deal on my motor tranny set up... i want an LS-x setup


you just need to find friends with more money than patience.


im excited my wideband should come in today or tomorrow so ill be getting her running again...

Laughing Gas Is a bang for your buck.

What about the sneaky pete nitrous system, its pretty cheap, super compact and to my recollection adds like 10mph+ but i dont remember all that well.

Totally agree with Saigon Bob. I'll assume Bigc is young because he's in school and don't have alot of $$$$$. These guy's are right about, "You gotta pay to Play" and I must add "Think with your head and not your Heart". These cars are 20 years old and just racing them stock will cause break-downs. So with a $500.00 budget, Is that ALL the money you have saved to go toward the car. Your in school, probably working part-time, what are you going to do if the car breaks down just under normal wear and tear? It's you daily driver right? So you'd be f***ed if after spending your $500.00 and then had something fail. Let's just say your trans gives out, which it very well could if you "push" the car and that's still with just a stock set-up. Rear-ends are not that strong either. You "race" your "Hobby" car and normaly drive your "DD" because you must depend on it everyday. Slowly get the car running as best it can stock. Then do the exhaust, and do it the right way!!! This is the easiest and most power gain for the buck and you won't worry about breaking anything. Then think about the rear-end. Do you have a "highway gear"? Building a stronger rear-end with a taller gear will give "great" performance gains on the street without worring again about breaking something. Then move to driveshaft/transmission. THEN you should be ready for MORE-POWER. But let's not forget the suspention. You should make sure all of that is in top shape before doing anything. You don't want a tie-rod breaking going over 100 mph. Alot of young guy's "Just want to go FAST". Either buy a car already set-up for it or you will have to spend big bucks to get there. Bottom line: Stay in school, Save your money, and when you have $2000.00 saved JUST for the car, then start. Remember, you always have to have a car to get to school/work. So have the money to get your car fixed or buy another one. Then think about adding "Go-Fast" to your car. I know it's an old guy's way of thinking, but I'm 43 and been there done that, and when my car broke-down, I was like "Now What am I going to do?" Money spends FAST on these cars and you will always be spending just to drive the car everyday to work/school with the normal breakdown stuff. Tires,starter,altinator,waterpump,battery,hoses,sparkplug wires,dist. cap/rotor, fuel pump in the tank "Big Job and $$$$ even if do yourself", then you got all the chassis stuff...Ball joints, bushings, tie rods, centerlink, steering link, struts, shocks etc.. That's just the normal stuff that goes on a 20 year old car. Make sure ALL that is in A1 shape before anything.

*cough* rant *cough* haha... hey im 21 dude and im the same way... my camaro in the last 3 or 4 years has prolly been running a cummulative 4 months due to various things...

"Owned." ??

How does that make it CARB EO approved!??!

Ugg.

-- Joe

Speaking of rediculous exspenses, I just rewired, resensored, refurbished, and reshrouded my whole radiator fan setup. I know that was over 500 and that was just so I could have peace of mind lol.

Already got told that earlier. By numerous people. Thanks for your input though.

I didn't see a "Sorry Kevin for being a Jerk, I was not aware of the smog laws in your state prior to posting a rude remark".

BTW.. Don't take it personal. I just didn't like the "Owned." comment.

-- Joe

Hey man, it's a forum on the internet, how personal can someone really take something? And the "owned" comment was uncalled for, sorry Kevin91z.