Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
When i first installed my sn 89 supercharger it had a low peaceful tone. After 2 months is got really really loud to the point where I just took it off today. It gives out 6.5 boost at 5500 rpm and it works like a charm. What is wrong, or what can I do to reduce the noise. I may put it up for sale if I can't find a solution to the loudness.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
The whining sound is deafening with the hood down and standing next to the front left panel. Some people like loud superchargers, but I wanted one to use as a sleeper. I am also pissing off the neighbors when I start up my car in the morning to go to work. As of today I am pulling all the brackets off and going to return my car back to normal because I can't fix the noisiness.
What is wrong, or what can I do to reduce the noise. I may put it up for sale if I can't find a solution to the loudness.
Can you upload some sounds, like this for instance, Click Here....
__________________ 1998 Trans Am: Mystic Blue w/Tan Leather, Automatic, T-Tops, Daily Driver.... 1990 Trans Am GTA: Black w/Black Leather, 5-Speed, T-Tops, Few Mods.... 1989 Trans Am TTA: White w/Tan Leather, Automatic, T-Tops, Garage Queen.... 1986 Chevy Camaro V6: Blue w/Black Cloth, Hardtop, 355-TPI Swap, 700R4, MS-II....
These superchargers are quiet, there is something wrong with the internals, bad bearings or balls or carrier or something, it should be quiet at idle, you should not be able to hear it at idle with the hood closed except for a soft whistle, depending on the intake you have.. It is not gear driven witch is the noise on most sc come from.
The original intake tube for the paxton sn89 was a flex tube made out of a softer material that absorbed sound. I am guessing the 1 foot aluminum tubing and the small cone air filter am using may be amplifying the whistle. I am going to try using a long plastic tube with a lot of bends to see if that helps. If it were bad internals, than the supercharger itself would be making a bad noise, right? The loudness is coming from the intake suction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scribbles
These superchargers are quiet, there is something wrong with the internals, bad bearings or balls or carrier or something, it should be quiet at idle, you should not be able to hear it at idle with the hood closed except for a soft whistle, depending on the intake you have.. It is not gear driven witch is the noise on most sc come from.
Last edited by 1989irocz1; 07-27-2008 at 07:03 PM.
Mine is still sitting on my workbench, I have a couple work projects I need to finish first before installing it, but have spun it up to 1500rpm (6600 rpm impeller) on the my workbench and it makes 0 noise. I just blow's a lot of air.
----------
You don't have the VR4 upgrade do you? Those are loud.
Also have you used a long screwdriver to listen to the internals, and have you measured the resistance on the pulley with an in torque wrench? Needs to be stiff, I think it is 35 - 38 inch lbs or more, if it is two loose it will let the balls slip in the carrier and that will be loud, and damage the driver.
Last edited by scribbles; 07-27-2008 at 08:41 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I wish I had the VR4, I had this supercharger up to 6.5 psi max, so no it just a regular one. I just got done looking at the internals and I noticed the races weren't as tight as they were when I bought it. I just checked the fluid through a glass bottle and it was cloudy with a black(carbon) substance settling to the bottom. I think the races have wore down too much. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Paxto...spagenameZWD1V
Is the fluid level supposed to be 8-10 ounces?
I went to turn on the supercharger after inspection and noticed the pulley turning while the impeller was staying still, After starting testing the second time, the impeller rotated roughly. The belt wasn't even tight the second time.When I first got the supercharger, the pulley and the impeller would both be running amazingly at the same time.
Last edited by 1989irocz1; 07-27-2008 at 09:20 PM.
I am by far no expert, but I have spent the last month reading every post I can about the SN series blower. Yes the stock fill is 10 ounces, but if the oil gets hot it makes the ball drive slip, do you have an oil cooler? And are you using the correct fluid, needs to be ATF Type F, and do not use synthetic, two slippery, it needs friction for it to work.
Don't give up on it, it is a good unit it just need to be taken care of, By the way what size pulleys are you using, the stock f body pulleys are 6.25 and 3.25, that is what I got wit my kit, they will WAY over spin the unit and fry the races, you may have gotten stuck with that. To get your SC rpm use this formula ----- Crank pulley / blower pulley size x 4.44 x Engine RPM, need to stay below 38,000 with out cooler, and 40k with cooler. Really tight races you can push it but you better have a big cooler.
So far you've been big help. It is hard to locate a 3 rib 3.75 pulley. I just installed an oil cooler last week and it was loud then. I was using Castrol type F, I don't think it was synthetic. I am going to attempt to replace the races myself, i've rebuild a few motor, a supercharger shouldn't be hard. After I install the new races, I want to be able to take the motor up to 5500 rpm. That 38000 redline explains why my car would shift at 4500 rpm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scribbles
I am by far no expert, but I have spent the last month reading every post I can about the SN series blower. Yes the stock fill is 10 ounces, but if the oil gets hot it makes the ball drive slip, do you have an oil cooler? And are you using the correct fluid, needs to be ATF Type F, and do not use synthetic, two slippery, it needs friction for it to work.
Don't give up on it, it is a good unit it just need to be taken care of, By the way what size pulleys are you using, the stock f body pulleys are 6.25 and 3.25, that is what I got wit my kit, they will WAY over spin the unit and fry the races, you may have gotten stuck with that. To get your SC rpm use this formula ----- Crank pulley / blower pulley size x 4.44 x Engine RPM, need to stay below 38,000 with out cooler, and 40k with cooler. Really tight races you can push it but you better have a big cooler.
Why don't you upgrade to a serpentine setup? They are easy to find at the junkyard, the pulleys should be easy to find, I have read the 6 rib pulleys slip over 5k, and it may be cost effective to upgrade now to an 8 rib. Also it is normally the balls that fry, they are the softest part in the charger, and do you see any out of round parts on them? And do you have the upgraded impeller it is worth about 2 psi. And is only 200$ from crnd racing. They are supposed to be producing the vr4 kit in the next few months again.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help with. Most of the ppl running the Paxton SN series are running mustangs, not a lot of ppl here running them.
I would like to switch the belts to serpentine. I am not sure where to find a crank pulley replacement for the 3 rib I have. I think I could just buy the mustangs supercharger and tensioner pulleys and be fine. Right now I am looking for the stock (6.25-7 in) 6 or 8 rib crank pulley, can't seem to find it. I got sick of trying to contacting cundracing for parts because they are never around and they always return my phone calls when I am at work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scribbles
Why don't you upgrade to a serpentine setup? They are easy to find at the junkyard, the pulleys should be easy to find, I have read the 6 rib pulleys slip over 5k, and it may be cost effective to upgrade now to an 8 rib. Also it is normally the balls that fry, they are the softest part in the charger, and do you see any out of round parts on them? And do you have the upgraded impeller it is worth about 2 psi. And is only 200$ from crnd racing. They are supposed to be producing the vr4 kit in the next few months again.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help with. Most of the ppl running the Paxton SN series are running mustangs, not a lot of ppl here running them.
Last edited by 1989irocz1; 07-28-2008 at 11:41 AM.
When i first installed my sn 89 supercharger it had a low peaceful tone. After 2 months is got really really loud to the point where I just took it off today. It gives out 6.5 boost at 5500 rpm and it works like a charm. What is wrong, or what can I do to reduce the noise. I may put it up for sale if I can't find a solution to the loudness.
does it sound like a power steering pump with no fluid if yes replace the two
races and balls, rotate it with a wrench at the pulley you may have to remove
the gray cap,and rotate it slowly and if it rolls and stops you have small hole in the races. go to www.superchargerhelp.com if you take it apart you will need
a inch pound torque wrench.
Just got done talking with them. I am planning on ordering a 4.25 inch 8 rib blower pulley and a 6 inch 8 rib crank pulley for a total price of $300. That pulley combination should max out my supercharger at 6075 rpm.
When I first installed my Novi2000 I had a 45deg aluminum tube connected with rubber connector. At some point while working on things I pushed the tubing in to rubber connector so far so it was actually making contact with the blower itself, amplified the sound from the blower ALOT! Sounds kinda like what your describing.
My races looked fine. I am replacing the balls, and then the impeller shaft. I took it all apart today and saw that the impeller shaft was worn and had small chunks missing from it causing the balls to probably slip (not a smooth surface) . The races look like they can handle a lot more miles.
sounds great, by the way what are you running, a 350 or 305? Just wondering what boost to expect hopeing for 6lb
I am running it on a 305 and it is a huge difference, because with it off now, my car feels really slow. I had it up to 6.5 psi on my boost gauge because I went past the max 4500 rpm. I bought a high output blade with my impeller shaft order from cundracing. I want at least 8 psi, but 9 psi is what I really want.
I am running it on a 305 and it is a huge difference, because with it off now, my car feels really slow. I had it up to 6.5 psi on my boost gauge because I went past the max 4500 rpm. I bought a high output blade with my impeller shaft order from cundracing. I want at least 8 psi, but 9 psi is what I really want.
I buy my parts from paradise wheels 760-740-0954 they are cheaper than
cundracing.
I installed the new impeller shaft, new balls, and a new high output impeller today. It ran like it did when nothing was wrong. Now I have a soft whistle at idle.
Nope, I just used my best judgment. It is one of the easiest superchargers to work on, you just have to get the bolt torque numbers and remember where every part goes. All I did was torque down the impeller bolt between 5-10 lbs and it did the trick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scribbles
Sounds great, glad it worked out, do you happen to have a rebuild instructions / manual.
the whistle sound would have to be caused by a large amount of air squeezed through a tiny orifice (leak in air ducts or couplers) run your fingers along the ducts w/eng running, when you stumble on the leak the sound will change. tiny air leaks are often overlooked, if your system uses the thin accordian hose with a spiral wire wrapped inside (yellow/black color) then that would be the first place to look, these hoses provided by paxton will not stand up to any kind of rubbing/chaffing, if the hose touches anything it will rub and wear a hole in hose.
I concluded that it needed to be rebuilt. The ball bearing were worn, and the impeller shaft had a small chunk missing from it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuned-z
the whistle sound would have to be caused by a large amount of air squeezed through a tiny orifice (leak in air ducts or couplers) run your fingers along the ducts w/eng running, when you stumble on the leak the sound will change. tiny air leaks are often overlooked, if your system uses the thin accordian hose with a spiral wire wrapped inside (yellow/black color) then that would be the first place to look, these hoses provided by paxton will not stand up to any kind of rubbing/chaffing, if the hose touches anything it will rub and wear a hole in hose.
i ran my sn93 for 9-years without any problems, then i overlooked a chaffed intake hose that allowed sand to enter the blower. sent to paxton for rebuild, found rear housing was cracked, just over $1000 for repair, then i found out that i could have had an sn2000 for $1400/exchanged
runs great, allthough i am not creating as much boost now that the engine is wearing free flowing cylinder heads and better camshaft. i think sn2000 has the better impeller (more boost)
