Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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Thats just what I read and haven't seen any higher. Its probably a spooling issue. Using two would definitely help. I'm not a turbo guy but I think you need a differnent turbine/compressor ratio than normal for good spooling.
I am using the 40's for fast spooling and will be using a Ron Davis Air-water intercooler using 32 degree water. LOL, no its not a daily driver, however it can be run without water. The only things I havent worked out are boost timing and fueling. I've already sumped my tank and will be running at least an aeromotive a-1000 pump. (I think.) I havent bought electronics yet, but I figure I will be running a 3bar map sensor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I will be using a system similar to what anesthes is running. I will try to post a link.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/al...e-intakes-html This is the inspiration for my intake setup.
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Ok, link is no good, I dont know what I did wrong...
Go to alternative intakes then go to "I miss singleplane intakes"
Sorry!
Last edited by drknow90rs_ss@y; 10-25-2008 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I've tried to find more info on rear mounts in the past and haven't found much. I don't know why, it seems to be easy to setup, relatively cheap if you can fab your own tubing, and a great power increase. Not to mention not needing an intercooler if you keep boost on the low side due to the long tubing cooling. You don't have to worry about making headers or routing tubing all over the engine bay, and it keeps underhood temps near factory levels. Just have to worry about the heat around the turbo and not getting water splashed on it I guess.
I don't see why you couldn't do a simple setup for under $1000.
The only hard part I can see is picking the right turbo to spool quick enough for the street with the lower pressure situation.
I've seen this topic before on this forum, so maybe thats why there arent any responses from anyone else.
I drive my IROC to the show twice a month and the T/A will probably take over those duties so other than that, it will never be driven as a daily driver. I've run searches and there dosent seem to be anyone who knows how to set-up a high-boost remote mount turbo setup. I have seen lots of low-boost single setups, though...
I'm hoping the twin 40's will spool up quickly enough....
I had been hearing that the twins would spool up faster vs a larger single setup.... Is that wrong? It would be easier and less cluttered if I only run a single turbo setup... The biggest thing that is bothering me is that I dont wnow what I am doing when It comes to boost-timing and fuel issues with this setup. I am in uncharted waters for me. I havent bought electronics yet because of this. I also havent bought heads or a cam for this build. (383/t-56) ANY help would be appreciated!!!
twins is going to complicate things 10 fold i belive that sts kits use a turbo with a t3 .63 hotside. just look into that to see what they use and for what size engines.
with a 383 i would assume u could go t3 .8x ex housing with a t61 cold or 60-1 colde side
being a manual car it will lag a lil more then if it was an auto, but for racing u can use a 2 step to build boost on the line.
theres plenty of guys that will help u tune, but u have to decide on what means u want to tune with
stock computer and burning chips
use an fmu
or look into standalone units liek accell dfi - megasquirt etc
before buying or doing anything i suggest u look into the tunning option and pick one and familiarze urself with it.before going turbo this will help u out down the road
As far as boost timing goes, you can just lock your distributor. Boost retard boxes and ignitions I think are only needed if you are going to run inconsistent octanes, but can also be used to decrease power on the fly.
I run an msd box with boost retard so that I can keep the timing on the edge with a knock sensor gauge. Also to experiment with meth injection.
A1000 with -10an lines is what I run. I don't know much about efi, but I don't think an FMU hits the best AF ratio very well. Standalone is the best way and dyno tuned or yourself with a laptop. Not cheap though. Burning chips is kind of a pita and every time you adjust something, you may have to burn a new one.
I wonder how much the exhaust profile on the cam will affect how well a rear mount will spool. Single turbo would be much easier and less to worry about. Oil probably wouldn't get as hot either.
I also wonder if there is a difference in low speed velocity between a large single exhaust and smaller dual exhaust. Low speed velocity is going to help spooling.
I have a laptop and access to a dyno at very reasonable rates. (My RS has about 15 dyno hours on it) I'm really liking my FAST setup, just not the pricetag! I started a new thread on this board "Turbocharging my 383 T/A" Check it out. I dont want to hijack, and I apoligize, if I did.
2.8to5.7fb, you should search the forum for that kit and see what comes up. If theres not much here, google it. Theres a good amount on 4th gens and corvettes.
I think the universal kit is pretty basic and you're gonna have to do or have some custom tubing work done. Tuning is extremely important. How knowledgeable are you about turbos?
