i want to do rear mount turbo with carb need advice! - Page 2 - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

sketchy · 01-06-2009, 02:09 PM

hmm... well that might actually work to my advantage! because my car is pretty darn fast already. so i mean when my engine is under load. thats when i want it to start making boost and destroying the motor. id rather it destroy the motor when its necessary, not when its driving 50 down a striaght road! i mean its one thing for me to say this but im sure ill feel differntly on the track. but the only way to relaly know is to do it. yes i need to find a pediostol......man that may be hard. thanks for the word though that will help me find it im sure!

junkcltr · 01-06-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sketchy

okay well this is startin to get a little confusing. but here is what i have. i have patriot heads. headman headers, im gona hvae to call the guy who built the motor to verify but i belive the cam duration is either 240 or 250 and .55 lift. depending on what tires i use i can load the engine up alot or not load it up. the stickier tires i run in the rear the more load on the motor and the higher speeds i can drift around them. of cores this breaks nearly every piece of the car in the process...but can def be under load. i guess ill get crackin on regasketing my motor and get everything i need other than the turbo, i can always try this one out. my only problem with my turbo is it has the feed and retrun on the same side of the turbo and theres no fittings. instead theres 4 bolts around the outside of the 2 holes where a flange is supposed to go. i need to either find the oil flange off of an f250 turbo pickup or make something...

Most people make the pedestal for the oil feed/return flange on that turbo.
With that cam lift of .550", then it sounds like a 240 - 250ish @ .050 cam. That should make peak at around 6000 - 7000 RPM. Between the heads and exhaust I would guess you are already near the 450 BHP mark. What rev range do you keep the engine in during the competition?

Go to www.turbobygarrett.com and look at the compressor map for the GT3782. Look at the pressure ratio of 1.5 and go straight across horizontally. The last line with a curve ends around 40 lb/min. It takes roughly 10 lb/min per BHP. So at around 6 PSI at 65% efficiency that compressor is good for 400 BHP which is less than your approx. 450 BHP N/A. In other words you will over spin that compressor. That compressor is too small. If your N/A BHP is in the 250-300 range then this turbo would work for you.

Measure the compressor wheel at the inlet and check if it is 59mm. What did the engine builder approx. BHP? I am guessing around 450 BHP.

EDIT: changed N/A BHP range for turbo

sketchy · 01-06-2009, 02:56 PM

the builder estimated 450 crank horsepower. it feels like 350 wheel. i have a weiand Xlerator intake that i belive may be restricting the car. it seems to want to make max power between 5000-5500, heres a video to give you a better idea of whats goin on. one more thing. you say gt3782..is that what my turbo is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P2zCGi9VVk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qHdSyQKXsY

Batass · 01-06-2009, 03:14 PM

Thats awesome! That motor should pull well to 6000. Should probably get that figured out before you boost it.

A turbo isn't going to make the car harder to control will it?

I'd like for you to take me for a ride in MY CAR!

project89 · 01-06-2009, 03:24 PM

niceeeeeeeeee

sketchy · 01-07-2009, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junkcltr

That is a 59 mm comp. inducer, right? So that side will max. out around 550 BHP. The turbine should flow about the same as two T3 turbos with .64 A/R turbine housings. Overall, I think it would make a decent remote mount unit. Although, you never posted what kind of characteristics you want the engine to have. I think it will spool around 3000 - 3500 RPM.
.

if by inducer you mean the cold side turbine. the measure is 65mm... my exhaust one is 75mm. what does this mean now...

sketchy · 01-07-2009, 02:45 AM

does anyone know exactly what size AN hose to use for my oil feed and return? im pretty sure its differnt for both but not sure the idea size. ALso i want to know the IDEAL place to put the oil feed line. i am going to pull my oil pan off anyway. but is the oil pan the best place or the fuel pump block off plate or the valvecover for the oil return. (the return oil is oging to be pumped in with a pump)

junkcltr · 01-07-2009, 12:35 PM

That 65mm measurement is on the large size. Look at the picture here for the cold side inducer measurement:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html
I really think you are going to find that the wheel itself measure 59mm on the cold/compressor inducer (aluminum side).
Make sure you measure the wheel itself and NOT the aluminum housing diameter inlet.

-8 AN or bigger for the return for a normal gravity feed setup. I use -10 AN or -12 AN for my stuff. Your return line diameter will depend on the pump you use. You could ask one of the STS users what size the lines are for the remote setups. I don't think anyone around here has an STS setup, but some have a scratch built setup. I would use a 1/4" steel feed line with no or minimum joints on it. Then a flow restrictor at the turbo.
I prefer to return oil to the pan on the driver's side in front of the oil filter and a few inches above the sump splash shield. On the pass. side this comes out to be near the knock sensor.

sketchy · 01-07-2009, 01:05 PM

1/4 inch feed line? like brake tubing? how do i get 1/4 inch tubing to flex with the motor. also yes now that i kinda measured the wheel it is not 65 mm but probably around 59mm. also why a flow restrictor? i thought thoes were only for ball bearing turbos. or does the flow restrictor help make sure the turbo doenst use too much engine oil?

fun Pain · 01-09-2009, 01:16 AM

as in my sig,,, I use a HX50 and it spools at about 2600 to 10psi, and I have 6psi at about 2200 where my stall kiks... even with 9.3-1 comp. and that is with a slightly too big, cam for a street car.... I have like 9-11 in of vacuum at 750rpms, lil rough for the street. I think I can tune that up a lil.

I am using 1/4in and -4an line to feed, an 3/4npt fitting to 3/4in flex line return
(non remote) sizes should be fine.

anyway just found the thread, let me know if I can be of any help...

P.s. there are oil pumps for remote jobs, I am about to use one for my 2.2l S-10 and a Garret GT-1752.

porsche owner like this one= http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pu...enge_Pump.html
and thirdgener's seem to like this one= http://www.pumpagents.com/ShurfloPum...0-643-236.html