Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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Well made some good progress, I need to order a Intake elbow then do my cold side, make brakets for the rad, finish the meth etc.
There take her for a haul! Ther pull it all apart for paint lmao.
Jay
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An O2 sensor depends on the pressure differential across the element to outside air. Your O2 will not read normal since you have it before the turbo where the exh. pressure is higher. It is recommended to put it after the turbo to read as normal.
That looks like a Holset H2 series unit. How big is the comp. inducer wheel?
Overall, nice job. That is a lot of work doing a turbo setup starting from scratch and making the entire headers/manifolds.
An O2 sensor depends on the pressure differential across the element to outside air. Your O2 will not read normal since you have it before the turbo where the exh. pressure is higher. It is recommended to put it after the turbo to read as normal.
That looks like a Holset H2 series unit. How big is the comp. inducer wheel?
Overall, nice job. That is a lot of work doing a turbo setup starting from scratch and making the entire headers/manifolds.
Well the LT1s use 2 o2 sensors one for each bank, that is why they are placed before the turbo. Most LT1 guys do it this way. Also I think the turbo is big enough that I wont have backpressure issues.
The turbo is a Garrett unit from a detroit diesel semi. It is a 74MM turbo. But also a guy on turboforums can turn it into an 88MM so thats next years plans.
Also there will be lots of video dont you worry lol
stupid firewall, can see the latest pics here at work.
off topic, but how did u run that line lock?
For the line lock I plugged one of the factory front lines off the distribution block (the one that angles up). Ran one to the line lock then off the line lock I ran a line to a T then split off the each wheel. I ran all new break line everywhere also.
Hopefully tomorrow I will take her around the block if I get a bit more exhaust on it.
ahh i see. yea i just bought one, and took a quik look. the fittings are different then the poportioning valve on mine.
dont know if anyone mentioned before, but you cant have your FPR on the firewall if your drag racing at the track.
oh and who needs exhaust, your turbo is enough of a muffler in my book.
a buddy of mine runs twins open down pipe on a 86 capri with a sbf. its way more quite then my N/A stroker with mufflers.
ahh i see. yea i just bought one, and took a quik look. the fittings are different then the poportioning valve on mine.
dont know if anyone mentioned before, but you cant have your FPR on the firewall if your drag racing at the track.
oh and who needs exhaust, your turbo is enough of a muffler in my book.
a buddy of mine runs twins open down pipe on a 86 capri with a sbf. its way more quite then my N/A stroker with mufflers.
I have had Zero issues at the track, as long as its all braided line you are okay.
I run alot of events around here both NHRA and IHRA rules at the tracks
You should SERIOUSLY reconsider those welds, im an experienced welder,
ive had a cheap mig welder for years and did the same like you, welding and then grinding them, it looks bad and it IS bad!
There WILL BE lots of very thin spots in the welds and those manifolds/headers will get VERY hot!
They will expand and it will eventually crack, and they might be tiny leaks right now.
buy a small, second hand TIG welder, practice and look at some youtube movies about tig welding, you will get clean leakproof welds that dont need any grinding at all!
My Friend and I made an LT1 and an LSx system with a mig. that was a year ago. No cracks... no leaks... Same boost level as when it was first made.
__________________ 1988 RS in parts right now:
Block and crank is 1969 LT1
Rods are Scat H beam
Pistons are SRP 8.0 to 1 CR
Heads are AL Patriot Performance 195cc runners
Master Power T76
TH400 trans
Spohn trans x member with adjustable torque arm
You should SERIOUSLY reconsider those welds, im an experienced welder,
ive had a cheap mig welder for years and did the same like you, welding and then grinding them, it looks bad and it IS bad!
There WILL BE lots of very thin spots in the welds and those manifolds/headers will get VERY hot!
They will expand and it will eventually crack, and they might be tiny leaks right now.
buy a small, second hand TIG welder, practice and look at some youtube movies about tig welding, you will get clean leakproof welds that dont need any grinding at all!
Dont know if you read my entire thread...its my first time ever welding...if it cracks I dont really care. Ill fix it. Next year I am gonna make tubulars and just tac them and have a buddy Tig them.
just a question, only because i hate how ugly the lt1 altinators are, but wouldnt it have been easier to make a braket and mount the alt. really low instead of having 3 or 4 pointless pullies? i would imagine it would be pretty easy to dream something up, otherwise interesting build, what are you doing for tuning again?
just a question, only because i hate how ugly the lt1 altinators are, but wouldnt it have been easier to make a braket and mount the alt. really low instead of having 3 or 4 pointless pullies? i would imagine it would be pretty easy to dream something up, otherwise interesting build, what are you doing for tuning again?
They do make a kit BUT they dont make a kit that moves the alt and keeps power steering, unless u buy a braket and aftermarket pump which I am unsure if it will work in a third gen bc the steering box. Or run vette accessories but I have a 500 dollar balencer and the vette ones are different.
w000t I finished as much of my DP and exhaust as I could today. I need to go buy a straight length so I can finish the rest!
Also all of a sudden my radio,lights,horn and mirrors dont work so I need to track this issue down! I checked every single fuse etc. They just randomly stopped working all at once. I must of disconnected something that I cannot see.
w000t I finished as much of my DP and exhaust as I could today. I need to go buy a straight length so I can finish the rest!
Also all of a sudden my radio,lights,horn and mirrors dont work so I need to track this issue down! I checked every single fuse etc. They just randomly stopped working all at once. I must of disconnected something that I cannot see.
Also my welding is getting nicer!
Jay
sweet! i wanna see some vids once she is tuned!!
for the electrical issue, does yours have the main acc power wire on the starter?
Your welding has improved, that down pipe looks good. Sweet build dude, my freinds stock LT1 felt crazy fast on 10 pounds. He pulled it and switched to a 5.3 and turbo right after his LT1 was done though. Now it has been sold (sad day...).
__________________ 1988 RS in parts right now:
Block and crank is 1969 LT1
Rods are Scat H beam
Pistons are SRP 8.0 to 1 CR
Heads are AL Patriot Performance 195cc runners
Master Power T76
TH400 trans
Spohn trans x member with adjustable torque arm
good job man. i havent followed this thread in a while, so I was suprised when i seen that you have it running.
your 02 sensor placement should be alright; the turbo buicks had their sensors just before the turbo.
as far as your welds go, they could look better, but looks aren't everything. i've seen many welds that don't look like a roll of dimes but are plenty strong. from my experiences with turbocharged systems, your going to have to worry about the tubing that you made the headers out of cracking before the welds (again, turbo buicks were famous for it). any metal with eventually fatigue and crack after enough heat cycles (which, as you know, turbos make a ton of heat on the hot side)...more exotic/expensive materials just prolong the process, and for most it is easer to repair a cheaper manifold than make them out of inconel, hastelloy, etc.
I am planning on running my th400 in my '92 RS with the same gear. Id be interested to know what rpms you will turn on the highway and also how you like the brake in the trans? I have an ATI th400 with a transbrake waiting to go in and i cant wait to drive it.
Okay I bolted the convertor to the flexplate to check. Bolts up fine but it overhangs the bottom off the groove for the starter teeth by maybe .100....now to grind or not? It wont be much of each tab so it shouldnt really throw it outta balance.
and here are some pics.
Jay
Some nice shinny POR 20 on the trans!
The nice tiny turbo blanket! its about 2 inches thick inside, also doubles as a great hat!
I had a similar problem with my torque converter/flexplate, and I ground the tabs down a little like you mentioned. Not .100, but just enough to give some clearance for the starter snout. I also had to grind down a little of the ring gear to make the teeth flush with the flexplate itself so the converter lugs bolted flat. I think just about every dual pattern converter mounted on a 153 tooth flexplate is going to have clearance issues, as the outer bolts are so close to where the starter snout is.
well i would grind it a smidge.
but here is a question, is it sitting on a 153 flexplate?
strokers run a external balance crank. unless u went with an aftermarket crank thats internal balance. the ext balance ones utilize the 168 flexplate.
either will work with the right starter, but in your case, bust out the grinder.
check how the starter engages before putting the tranny in. makes it easier to shim with all that room.
i just swaped stall convertors, not the cause, but wish i would have adressed the flexplate at the time, but shortly after my flexplate died, so i gota pull the tranny out again and replace it! i really hate chevy starters.
well atleast your compression is from boost and not a problem on start up.
check how the starter engages before putting the tranny in. makes it easier to shim with all that room.
i just swaped stall convertors, not the cause, but wish i would have adressed the flexplate at the time, but shortly after my flexplate died, so i gota pull the tranny out again and replace it! i really hate chevy starters.
well atleast your compression is from boost and not a problem on start up.
Good call Ill hook the starter up tomorrow and see how far it engages. If it goes past the flex plate then i know to grind the converter....I acually my just put it on the lathe and take the tabs down this way it will take even amounts!
Is your car stock ride height? You said that down pipe is 3.5"? I know my 83 had less than 2.5" clearance under the crossmember, I kept flattening the crossover pipe that went between it and the oil pan... how often are you hitting that?
umm they dont make a kit that keeps power steering. Believe me I would if I could, unless i got a Zoops braket and a new pump but then it would run into my hotside.
sounds good, thats a real sleeper! just sounds like a mild lt1.
turbos are kinda like mufflers in a way, id run it like that, or at least straight pipe it to the axle.
Nice car! That's quite a bit of work but well worth it, once the beast is properly tuned and all kinks are worked out. Boost on a V-8 is great, but so is a built n/a V-8 that makes 700 hp. Right now, I'd take either.
Nice car! That's quite a bit of work but well worth it, once the beast is properly tuned and all kinks are worked out. Boost on a V-8 is great, but so is a built n/a V-8 that makes 700 hp. Right now, I'd take either.
700hp N/A V-8 or a 700hp Turbo V-8, either one is awesome, but the smooth pull of a turbo car is the greatest feeling in the world. Plus drivability is great (with good tuning of course)
__________________ Boosted and intercooled L98 with 749 ecm
10.78@128-1.5 60ft(new best time july/06)-570rwhp@13lbs on pump gas. Est. 600+rwhp@16lbs on 100 octane. Capable of 18lbs, but havent done it, ok maybe once.
Featured in GMHTP mag July 07
