Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
i think you should understand that you are a very sick man and all this work cant be good for you. i suggest you put it out of your mind and the best way to do that is to get that engine and all of those modifications out of your sight. consider me a friend who is willing to help. i will come over and pick all those things up just to get them out of your way.
nicely done. lost of attention to detail.
Thanks for the offer man but I got a fever, and the only prescription is more boost
It's getting down to little things now. Wiring, driveshaft, hooking up the radiator, mounting the alternator, etc etc. A bunch of little stuff you neglect or can't do until the big stuff is done. But it's getting closer
This week I did a bunch of wiring in the engine bay and interior. The fuel pump wiring, line lock, transbrake, radiator fans, gauges, wideband O2, etc, all need to be wired and tied into the ECM. I'm making progress but it all just looks like a ratsnest right now.
I also mounted the drivers side coil pakcs and got the torque arm (BMR Trak Pak) mostly in. I rolled the crossbar up for ground clearance and tack welded it in for now until I get my driveshaft to double check my clearances.
Got my driveshaft in, built the safety loop and finished welding the trak pak in. Most of the wiring is done, transmission cooler lines run, fluids topped off, etc. Turbo and fuel plumbing are done, pretty much the only big thing left is to finish up the radiator install and mount the fans. Then I've got a lot of wires and hoses to tidy up and little things to do to make it road worthy.
I started the engine up to make sure everything still worked, verify oil pressure, get some fluid into the converter and verify the transmission was working properly. My goal was to get it to move out of the garage under its own power by spring, and since summer doesn't officially start until next week, I may have made it.
I got the car running and took it for a short test drive on Friday. Everything seemed to go well except for a small oil leak that I need to fix. The rest of the weekend I took off from working on the car. I put in a lot of late nights to get it where it is now, and now that all the basics are working I figured it was a good time to take a break.
I was so busy I forgot to take pictures or video, but fortunately my cousin had his cell phone and took a quick video of me putting some load on the engine during break-in. The quality kinda sucks but you get the idea.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP1GKonAsGM
__________________ Boosted and intercooled L98 with 749 ecm
10.72@129-1.5 60ft(new best time Nov/2010)-570rwhp@13lbs on pump gas. Est. 600+rwhp@16lbs on 100 octane. Capable of 18lbs, but havent done it, ok maybe once.
Featured in GMHTP mag July 07
Well my Fuelab pump has gone out again (twice now in as many months). So it's going to be off the road again until I get that sorted out..
Wow, man that sounds like a poor product. Sorry to hear that. I almost got one of those instead of my Aeromotive. Hope you have better luck with the next one!
Wow, man that sounds like a poor product. Sorry to hear that. I almost got one of those instead of my Aeromotive. Hope you have better luck with the next one!
I finally got ahold of the engineer on Monday. Apparently they have seen a few failures of one particular resistor on the input of the control board. He told me that they originally suspected it was due to voltage transients (flyback spikes, basically high voltage spikes that occur when you shut off inductive devices like relays and motors, and can destroy electronics) destroying the resistor. However after the first failure I added a device called a transient voltage suppression diode that is designed to eliminate those spikes, and the pump still failed after about 5 hours of use.
He assured me that they are now using a 2nd revision of the control board that does not use the particular resistor that failed on my pump. He offered to send me a new pump with the 2nd revision control board which I said I'd appreciate if I could get before the end of the week (today). I sent my old pump back that evening for them to look at. Unfortunately the new pump never came this week and I'm not sure if they have even shipped it out yet.
It's becoming just a little bit frustrating, as I originally ordered the pump in March and it arrived about two months late. When I got it, it ran for about 5 minutes before it failed and it took another two weeks to RMA it. After I got it back in mid June I put about 5 hours on it before this second failure last week. I don't think I was asking too much to have a new pump this week. At this point it's the only thing holding back the whole project. Add to that the hassle and the tow bill each time it fails and my general lack of faith in the pump now, I'm not sure that I can say I would endorse the product.
Fuelab sent me a brand new pump which I got and reinstalled yesterday. I called up to see what happened to the old pump and the tech confirmed that the 2 ohm input resistor had fried again. The new pump is supposed to have the 2nd revision control board with the resistor in a different spot, beefed up and from a different manufacturer. The tech assured me that while a few of the 1st gen boards have had the resistor problem, they have not had any returns of the 2nd gen hardware. So we'll see how it goes.
No videos really, I've got a few pics though. I've been fighting with my share of startup bugs including some really bad starter heat soak that I think I might have finally fixed. I drove it on about a 40 mile round trip the other week through town and on the highway and the car gets HOT. So I've got some more work to do in that respect. It's getting there though..
Well, the firebird saw its first bit o' boost today. Only 5 psi but it made a huge difference. Until now I've had a 1psi overboost limit while I tune the NA map and have been pedaling the car to stay away from it. Letting the wastegate take over today and actually being able to open the throttle turned the car into a whole different animal It's definitely time for stickier tires.
I have been having some issues with the low impedance (peak-and-hold) fuel injectors. I had the hold current percentage too low and combined with the alternator belt slipping at high rpm, my battery voltage was dropping and allowing the injectors to start closing past 5k and 4-5lbs boost. I spent a long time convinced it was an ignition problem until I took my blinders off and figured it out. I increased the hold current and it runs great now. In celebration I cranked the boost up a little to 7psi.
Unfortunately my camera man is MIA this week so this unsubstantiated photo evidence will have to do. I promise to get some more videos soon. I'd really like to get it to the track this year, I'm a bit leery about how accurate a dyno is going to be with a non-lockup torque converter.
Hey don't you have a Nova for the go-fast stuff? I certainly took my sweet time getting the car on the road, but I've still got a lot to do. I've got a rollbar coming that needs to be put in (yeah, gonna be fun with all that dynamat too..), need to pick out seats and get a harness, get some tires and wheels for the track, and start dialing in the suspension among other things.
What brand turbo blanket is that and how do you like it? Nice build, can't wait to see some 15 psi vids!
I got it on ebay from 'Cool turbo blankets'. It's thick and has held up well to my nuclear exhaust temps, and probably saved my hood as well. Since then i've also wrapped the headers, crossover, and downpipe with DEI Titanium which has cut down a lot on the radiant heat.
I think I'm going to leave it at 7psi until I get some stickier tires and play with the suspension. Upping the power is pretty much pointless until I can get it to the ground.
Just got back from the track tonight. I did 5 runs total on some MT ET Street Radials. I never did get the tires to hook up on the launch but I'm still happy with my times for only running about 6-7 psi. Best ET run was 11.45 @ 120, best MPH run was 11.812 @ 121.5. I'll post up videos soon.
First up, 11.79@117. 20psi in the tires and leaving at about 5 psi boost. The tires spun so I backed out of it slightly to get them to hook at about the 60' mark. 60ft time was 1.92s.
The next pass I dropped the tire pressure down to 15 lbs and left at 5 psi again. The car still didn't hook but it wasn't nearly as bad. 11.45@120. 60' was 1.73.
The last pass of the night, the car started going sideways during the burnout, so I ended it early. That yielded a 11.81@121.5 with a 2.00 60'. No video, it was pretty uneventful.
Here's links to the previous two passes from the pit side:
I'll be doing a little more work to the suspension now to try and get my 60' times down. If I can get it to dead hook I think it'll be in the low 11's at only 6-7 psi. I need to get the roll bar in before I turn it up any father. I've got an S&W 8-point kit I'll be putting in as well as some hunsaker seats on order. I finally get to work on the interior, yay!
Also, since the turbo is sucking in 180 degree air from the engine bay, I'm dealing with awfully high intake temps that make me uncomfortable even on ethanol, so I'm going to work on a cold air intake or meth injection to get that under control before I try to bump the boost up any higher.
All in all I'm pretty happy with it for now, the track closes in about 4 weeks so I don't know if I'll have a chance to turn the boost up before winter. We'll see how it goes..
This week I did a bunch of wiring in the engine bay and interior. The fuel pump wiring, line lock, transbrake, radiator fans, gauges, wideband O2, etc, all need to be wired and tied into the ECM. I'm making progress but it all just looks like a ratsnest right now.
I also mounted the drivers side coil pakcs and got the torque arm (BMR Trak Pak) mostly in. I rolled the crossbar up for ground clearance and tack welded it in for now until I get my driveshaft to double check my clearances.
Thanks for using our products in your build
If you have any questions or concerns let me know I will be more than happy to help out where I can
__________________ Lee Spicher lee@bmrfabrication.com (813)986-9302 QUICKEST/FASTEST TORQUE ARM CAR IN THE COUNTRY Will Stevenson 4.72 1/8 7.33 1/4 BMR Suspension on drag radials
Well the season ended pretty uneventfully. I never got the car past 7 psi before the track closed down for the year, mostly due to some ignition problems I never got sorted out. I'm tearing the car down re-do the stuff that was rushed to get it on the road last summer: cleaning up the wiring, finishing the exhaust, closing up the HVAC holes in the firewall, putting in the rest of the roll bar, installing the interior, etc.
While the car is apart I'm taking the opportunity to go through the drivetrain to make sure there are no surprises waiting for me next year.
I also got a high speed camera and I did take one last video before I put the bird away for the year. Hopefully more videos will follow next year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScNcSsIRzlY
After that I pulled the car into the garage and started hacking away, here it is the next day I hope I remember how to put it all together again
Thanks, I hate tearing it down after that, but that's what winter is for I guess
Put the block on the stand and started taking it apart. Found out the fel-pro oil pan gasket had deteriorated and was coming off inside the engine (caused by alcohol in the oil maybe?) Pulled a few main caps to check the bearings.
You Sir have inspired me.. I cleaned my garage out and started my L98 Z28 T-70 project. Just some ebay junk, till tax time and then a good turbo. Might go Code$59 might go MS? Any thoughts, pros-cons. Agin Sir nice work!
__________________
Stock L98 short block,HSR Intake,58mm TB, TB coolent bypass,AFPR,24lbs blue tops,TCI Street Fighter 700r4,TCI 3300 stall,Detroit NoSpin locker,373 gears, Ultimate reared cover and tube brace kit,Boyd wheels,Spohn Chrome Molly LCA's,BMR Chrome Molly Panhard bar,welded in SFC's,315-35-17 M/T D/R,245-45-17 fronts
Be careful with the ebay ADs. They could be saying that the comp. exducer is 76mm. Ask what the comp. wheel inducer is. Take a look at the GT45 Ebay turbo. It has a 68mm comp. inducer.