Ok so I decided to go with a might demon 750 cfm carb for my blow thru, got a great deal only $399 on jegs. As a tester I'm putting the turbo I posted in my rochy carburetor thread in. Its a .50 a/r compressor .63 a/r turbine. It's rated at max psi 25 and I'm thinking about runnin 8 psi. Will I see absolutely any increase in power even if its only like 50 hp? Just wondering cause I'm tempted to order an extra turbo and go twin but only if neccessary cause that $399 is gonna take a good 2 months to pay off on my credit card lol. I'd rather just run one turbo for now if I'll get a little power boost out of it

that is a way to small turbo. if anyhting it will put out some high egt. and it will not make any power beyond 3krpm. the compresor and turbin a/r are way too restrictive, that turbo is for 4 or 6 cylinder at best.
just sell that turbo and buy a mpt70 or mpt76 with a .96 a/r
will see around 12psi on 350ci motor and turbo supports 750bhp

So you think all 8 cylinders going to a t70 would be good??

A T70 w a A/R.96 will work good.....

cheapturbo has i believe a t70 for $699 either that or its a 60

flow: 61 lbs/min 781cfm

.70 A/R housing

60 TRIM wheel

TURBINE SPECS:T3

.82 A/R housing

HIGH FLOW 76 TRIM stg3 wheel

oil lubricated centersection.

COMES STANDARD WITH 360 DEGREE THRUST BEARING!!

supportable of 600whp!

You do not want a T3!!! You can get a T70 MasterPower for $599 from VSRacing http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...roducts_id=812

Very good company to deal with.........

Ray

ok got from my dads work a t70 with a .70 a/r compressor and .84 on the turbine instead.

running 15 psi
&
running off of 4 cylinders, not 8 i dont feel like running the extra piping lol

when do you think it'll spool, im guessing 3500 rpms

that will casue all sorts of backpresure problems. it is a bad idea.
the backpressure needs to be equalised for all 8 cylinders.

Do you know here I could get a set of stock gm manifolds than? I'd prefer to use them to weld into the turbo

I have the manifolds I found them in my garage, so I'll rig up a nice interconnect pipe for the two manifolds that Ill reverse. If i run all 8 cylinders to a t70 with 15 psi boost what RPM do you think it will spool at now?

http://www.xs-power.com/gm-turbo-manifolds-3.htm

dont you think the turbo will sit into the ac, even with the ac bypass pully

i ended up going with that, boy never buy stuff made in china for an american car... nothing was right, couldnt get the 8th spark plug in beacsue the header tube was in the way, the water temp sending unit was blocked by the manifold bar, the crossover pipe was too short... too much bad luck. However thanks to my awesomeness i was able to fabricate it back into shape, and the only way the turbo will hit anything is if you have a passenger side mount ac compressor, thankfully i have a vbelt setup with alternator passenger side mounting =D

oh cant forget the wastegate dump pipe had to be shortened cause it ran into the fuel pump XD

i also needed to buy short deck valve covers because the way the turbo mounts it basically puts the turbo right into the valve covers

so unless i want to buy new valve covers and swap in a new belt set up i should make my oun set up , i seems like you cant get a good bolt on headers for the thirdgen with serp set up with out a **** load of mods to the new parts you just paid for and cant return if you do ?

do you have any pics of how it turned out? i am in the process of doing something similar so pics would def. help me out lot.

I'd like to see pics for future reference aswell...

by tomorrow i will post the pics of it, i had to take the manifolds off because i need to put new spark plugs in and cant get to them with the manifolds on... or perhaps tonight if i get around to autozone today

and of course i get all excited and am about to go to autozone right now and woosh instant down pour and t-storm

damn that sucks... our temps here in Georgia are 88* with sunny skies... t-tops off anyone?

but I look forward to the pics. I'm in no rush, I'm actually doing a remote mount for now, but if I can make those headers work, I might just reconsider...

still dont work, heres the aftermath...

you got any pictures of the turbo manifold and how they fit?

have you tried useing the shorty plugs im mot sure who makes them but there anmost 1\2" shorter, also not sure y there breakin but it should help

accel makes them i ordered 2 for the #6 and 8 cylinder hopefully that should fix the clearance issues and ill be able to finally get everything in order, pics this weekend most likely tomo night too

when you get them can you post part# just in case if any of us need them, mostly me depending on the route i go

it all depends on the motor and application, i believe a small block chevy is .460 reach and the part number I ordered is ACC-0576S on summit racing

I wouldn't go with Accels, get NGKs, they are also shorter. I currently have them now and fit easily behind my Hooker headers....

Can you post pics of the manifolds??

i had ngk's and really disliked them =/ i tried the iridium ones and the diamond ones and the platinum ones and they all seemed to make my engine run funny, i guess they are better off on newer motors or something, i just use a standard set of autolites and the shortys...

if it ever stops raining i might be able to get some work done tonight with the manifolds and turbo and everything set up =D

yeah, I just have the "base" NGK's. I heard platniums and iridiums make our engines run bad...

first picture is how the turbo compressor is gonna feedinto the carb, 2nd picture is the passenger side manifold, and 3rd is the drivers side

as you can tell the passenger side manifold still needs to be fixed up a bit

heres some pics of the crossover pipe, the first one is a shot from underneath near the front of the motor

the second is a picture of me showing how i had to extend the bottom pipe with a butt clamp and the the upper clamp connects the crossover pipe to the passenger side manifold... i wouldnt have had to use the bottom left clamp is the stupid pipe was long enuff in the first place, but oh well.. its worked..

I'll be honest, it doesn't look that bad. Seems like you made it work pretty well. Let us know how it works out and how long it lasts....

tomo should be the big fireup day... will post pics and probably a video of the piston flying thru the head or melted crank in the oil pan or something

haha...nice

it started... and set half of my driveway and neighbors lawn on fire... when all things were said and done I was running about 2 pounds of boost i'd say... pos ebay boost controller

how in the hell did you set everything on fire? lol did you try to take it for a spin?

Well I had an oil leak, and my car backfired, and um you can imagine the rest...

But thank god everything is all finished and its working now, I wish I did more research

Tomo I'll be taking it for its first legit spin, hopefully no fires...

ahh ok now in see lol. congrats looks like a fun build you need to post up your results and some videos.

.

I will, I'm assuming the horsepower is between 500-600 whp running 13 pounds of boost cause for some reason my motor is taking it so easily

I'll take some videos tomo during my drive, I just gotta time it a little better and get a few adjustments on the carb and we should be good to go

FYI it was not fun, I hate ssautochrome with a passion now lol

haha yeah i was gona build a single turbo setup for my 82 but until i get a good welder its kinda impractical. so instead im building a high comp 383 with a nice solid cam next build will deff be a single turbo lsx

someones got $14,000 to spend lol, this whole turbo setup only cost me about $1500 including welding equipment, piping, and all the accessories, and I'm getting about 150 hp over my stock hp so it works out great

haha not hardly i should have about 4k in my 383 build with brodix heads forged internals ect. but thats with me doing all the assembly. if i had a stock motor lying around id do what you did in a heartbeat. ive thought about doing that to my lil 305 i have in the car now but then id have to swap out the cam and spend $$$ on a boost carb and fuel pump/regulator.

i probablly missed this somewhere but seems like you dont have an intercooler, did you say you are boosting 13 psi?? i'm pretty sure the air is not efficient at all at that much pressure without an intercooler. i would never try running more than 7-8psi w/o one, are you not worried about detonation??


how did you tune your carb? rich at idle or did you add some kind of boost activated fuel enrichment system? just curious

nah not worried about detonation, ive got a real nasty cold air intake system on there, plus the comp ratio b4 the turbo is 8.1 to 1 so its not that high, and yes I got the fuel bowls loading with fuel at idle, plus it all has to do with when I have the secondaries open and what not, the mech fuel pump is a 140gph pump at 8psi so its a pretty heavy duty

all i have to say is oil return lines can suck one, not only are my headers drenched in oil, but so is the entire street

Nasty cold air intake or not.. Intercooler is your best bet.

By what I've seen on this board by noboostnogo, his advice is probably always on the money

it all depends on the charge and temp of the air and on a normal drive it's only reading a temp of 132 plus im gonna be running meth injection to drop the temp too, and if i get some good money a cry02 freeze ball for the intake

Did you look to see how small the hole was in the pipe where the wastegate pipe was welded to? The opening is way undersized for the pipe diameter. They also do that on the cyl 2 pipe. I cut them off and opened up the holes to the right size and re-welded.

Curious....what filler rod did you use for welding the S/S (308 or 304)? I had to cut and re-weld the cross over pipe to line up properly. I also had to surface the header flanges. Did you put a straight edge on them? They are way out (leaks down the road) out of the box.

Overall, modifying those cheap less than $250 headers was A LOT faster than doing a custom fabbed set. I wouldn't complain about what you get for the cheap price. I also made a support to the T4 flange from the fuel pump bolts.

Those headers were designed to NOT use a fuel pump. They were designed with EFI in mind. Using the turbo BBS used, it all should have worked with the stock valve covers. Tall ones would not fit.

You are reading 132* F where? That sounds like a typical IAT reading before boost at the intake. The only was to read the IAT under boost properly is with an IAT that can respond quickly. A stock V8 IAT sensor will not respond to the IAT increase in boost fast enough so you will get a false reading. Try using a real thermistor or at least a V6 open element IAT.
You are not getting the real boost IAT right now. It is reading way under the real IAT.

Spray it with meth/ethanol/water to cool the charge.