Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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Im in the home stretch of aquireing all the parts to swap in my t-76 into my 1992 RS Camaro. It was a 5.0 car that i am droping my 383 out of my truck in. I have a question about the best headers for the car though. I am retaining the stock serpintine belt setup with A/C, and i need to find a set of headers i can turn around to exit twards the front of the car and still retain the a/c. Will these work: http://www.xs-power.com/gm-turbo-manifolds-1.htm ? I was also thinking about the v-8 s-10 summit headers. What have yall used? I really want to keep the A/C in my car but need the turbo too. Any experience or ideas?
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Im in the home stretch of aquireing all the parts to swap in my t-76 into my 1992 RS Camaro. It was a 5.0 car that i am droping my 383 out of my truck in. I have a question about the best headers for the car though. I am retaining the stock serpintine belt setup with A/C, and i need to find a set of headers i can turn around to exit twards the front of the car and still retain the a/c. Will these work: http://www.xs-power.com/gm-turbo-manifolds-1.htm ? I was also thinking about the v-8 s-10 summit headers. What have yall used? I really want to keep the A/C in my car but need the turbo too. Any experience or ideas?
Thanks for the quick responces. I am thinking that i might just have to make my own than. That is an awful lot of money that id rather focus elseware on my project. JR, I have followed you build over on theturboforums and really like the direction you are going. Im interested to see how you will like the th400/w brake. I have an ATI th400 with brake ready to go into my project. Im planning on running a 3.30 gear too to keep it highway driveable. Keep us updated man!
On these cars, there arent any headers that can be easily modified to work is there?
Thanks for the quick responces. I am thinking that i might just have to make my own than. That is an awful lot of money that id rather focus elseware on my project. JR, I have followed you build over on theturboforums and really like the direction you are going. Im interested to see how you will like the th400/w brake. I have an ATI th400 with brake ready to go into my project. Im planning on running a 3.30 gear too to keep it highway driveable. Keep us updated man!
On these cars, there arent any headers that can be easily modified to work is there?
It is a lot of money for BBS headers, but keep in mind he uses thick wall (schedule 40) mild steel and TIG welded. That means they can take a beating without cracking. Using regular head material (16 ga. mild steel) will crack from heat cycling much sooner.
Depending on how long you want them to last use the correct material to fabricate with. After a 1/4 mile run you will see the header glowing orange. That doesn't happen with just a regular N/A engine. The heat cycling and weight of the turbo is what causes the stress on the headers.
It is a lot of money for BBS headers, but keep in mind he uses thick wall (schedule 40) mild steel and TIG welded. That means they can take a beating without cracking. Using regular head material (16 ga. mild steel) will crack from heat cycling much sooner.
Depending on how long you want them to last use the correct material to fabricate with. After a 1/4 mile run you will see the header glowing orange. That doesn't happen with just a regular N/A engine. The heat cycling and weight of the turbo is what causes the stress on the headers.
So if i were to do away with my beloved a/c and run an older style v-belt setup, What would be the most cost effective headers to use? I do not want the turbo mounted to one of the headers with a crossover pipe from the other side. I want to make a crossover pipe that mounts the turbo were the stock location for the battery is. Would the headers in my first post work well for this or is there a better choise out there on the market?
After the mods to make them fit you would need to make the pipes going from the T3 flanges to the battery box. It is up to you to decide if making complete headers is cheaper and/or faster than using the SSAC/Ebay headers.
The SSAC are made out of some kind of stainless steel. Some same 321 like properties.
So after looking at all the trouble with haveing a front exit header system i was thinking about mabey running stock headers that exit where they are supose to and runing a murge pipe that runs twards the front of the car and still havng the turbo in the same spot i want it in and retaining the stock serpintine belt and a/c. I know there is a white Iroc runnit around on this board with that setup. Im just hopeing that there wont be too much turbo lag due to the extra pipeing. Any thoughts on this option?
Using a T4 flanged .96 A/R turbine on a 383ci with the piping you described should not have any lag. I guess it depends on what you call lag though.
Lol im not quite sure what i call lag either. This is my first dabble in the turbo world and also the first dabble in the car world. Hell, im just a pick-up truck drivin ******* that stumbled onto a camaro lol.
^That is exactly what i am thinking of doing. Its good to hear that It is working good for you. Any other suggestions about this setup? Also, what BOV and waisgate are you running, It looks like your setup is really close to mine. I would like to run around 12psi max for now.
I'm using the big red Procharger BOV and a 60mm Tial gate. Your turbo and power level are quite less than mine could and will be with my 91mm turbo, but not to say you couldn't use the same gate and BOV that I am. I used the hedman shortie headers I've had since the 305 was in it years ago, and ran that pipe how you see. I just uploaded some new pics too if you want to take a look: http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f305/fast82z/
Last year with the Procharger on 15psi I ran a 9.55@ 140. I'm still working out problems and tuning, but the aim for this turbo is an 8.5 e.t. So far it looks like the turbo makes the same power with less boost, but could also go up to 30psi if and/or when I get nuts.
I wouldn't call it a street car, but the only reason I can't drive it on the street is because the plates are expired and there's no insurance on it at the moment.
Thats bad *** man, the reason i asked was because i wanted to know what the stall speed on the converter is, also what size rear tires you have and what rpms you turn at highway speeds? Sorry for the 20 questions, but your car and avitar pic have been a big insperation for me over the past 6 months to get mine together.
Thanks for the kind words! Check out this link and see if you need to know anything else: http://www.fbody.com/timeslips/member.cgi?id=845 Been a while since I've driven it on the streets, but I want to say it was in the 2000-2500rpm area while going 40-45mph or so. The converter being loose can really flex that number depending on if I'm going up a hill or not. I really miss the 700r4 with the overdrive and locking converter for the street though, which is another reason I don't really drive it. Gear ratio wise 2500rpm should be 60mph, but without a locking converter you're pretty well assured to be around 300+ rpm higher than the gears indicate.
Wow that is a very indepth breakdown of your car, that will help alot. I see that you are running a belt drive fuel pump, I plan on running the aeromotive a1000 pump and boost reference regulator. One thing that has me a little worried is that i plan on sumping my existing gas tank. What is worrying me is that if i use the aero pump, how will my gas guage work? Can i just remove the pump motor from the tank and reinstall the float and all into the stock location without the pump and still get an ohms reading from the sending unit? Forgive me if this is a "stupid" question, lol.
I don't see why you couldn't do that. I'd probably leave the pump in there and just cut the power to it. The a1000 pump is fine for a blow thru setup, but if you plan on fuel injection either oversize the injectors or use more than just an a1000 pump. I had that pump last year and it should've held 85-90 psi going down track, but it was able to just keep up enough flow while dropping off to 60psi.
Do you still have the a1000 pump? Id be happy to buy it from you. Cutting the power wire is a good idea though lol, i tend to over think things sometimes.
30% off summits price,
aeromotive mustang sumpped tank, $357.00
a-1000 red pump $224.00
100 mic filter $70.00
10mic filter $58.00
pump controller $196.00
snow boost cooler stage 2 , $319.00
coils 1/2" and 3/8" aluminum fuel line
insulated clamps for both
-an fittings to connect pumps ,filters, and hard lines
all new never used ,still in boxes,
BUY ALL,WILL DISCOUNT SUMMIT PRICE BY 35%
lets deal call 440-813-8789
30% off summits price,
aeromotive mustang sumpped tank, $357.00
a-1000 red pump $224.00
100 mic filter $70.00
10mic filter $58.00
pump controller $196.00
snow boost cooler stage 2 , $319.00
coils 1/2" and 3/8" aluminum fuel line
insulated clamps for both
-an fittings to connect pumps ,filters, and hard lines
all new never used ,still in boxes,
BUY ALL,WILL DISCOUNT SUMMIT PRICE BY 35%
lets deal call 440-813-8789
DAMN! Thats a great price on the a-1000! Ill have to jump on that after i get payed this week! thanks man, i owe you one.
