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Highly likely driver's side tube to steering shaft problem. It may need some massaging there or a cut & weld. It is stainless steel pipe. Check theturboforum.com
turbo manifold should fit, the rest of the swap wont be too bad. Just need a cheap set of shorties to use for the drivers side and fab up the cross over pipe. Wouldnt be all that difficult to do.
I still have my BBS single manifold for sale..... cant get rid of it... Doesnt work with stock serpetine setups which is probly why its not desireable.
but its not really worth doing unless the whole thing works, otherwise you just bought an $80 set of headers that you are only going to use one of, and had to fabricate a crossover pipe.
is it really that bad to use a stock manifold on one side and a fabricated log style header on the other?
turbo systems arent really cheap to do but certain things can be done with certain budgets. Nothing wrong with buying a 200-300 dollar turbo manifold and less than 100 bucks used headers on ebay/classifieds to use as the other side. Can easily use stock manifolds and build a log if your not looking for best efficiency and huge power numbers. plenty of simple logs in the 600whp range.
i've done a search but can't fine a good pic of the drivers side looking down at the header and stearing shaft. Can someone with a single turbo bbs system post a few pic's of that area???
i've done a search but can't fine a good pic of the drivers side looking down at the header and stearing shaft. Can someone with a single turbo bbs system post a few pic's of that area???
I had the driver's side on a 1986 chevy truck and there was about 1" of space to the steering shaft. I am not sure how it compares to the car.
At worst, the pipe can be cut and welded without removing the other pipes.
turbo systems arent really cheap to do but certain things can be done with certain budgets. Nothing wrong with buying a 200-300 dollar turbo manifold and less than 100 bucks used headers on ebay/classifieds to use as the other side. Can easily use stock manifolds and build a log if your not looking for best efficiency and huge power numbers. plenty of simple logs in the 600whp range.
The crossover doesn't fit right anyway and requires a cut and weld to clear the starter. The pipes are also made out of cheap 18 ga. pipe and will crack somewhat easy. The pipe is also some type of stainless steel.
As you mentioned, a set of cast iron stock manifolds will do 600whp. It all depends if one wants to do cast iron welding (heating, nickel rod SMAW/arc welding, cooling). I think it cost me less than $50 for materials to do my cast iron twin turbo manifolds. The cast iron manifolds will last forever, the SSautochrome 18 ga. units will not.
Is that with the big stock starter? Would it clear a gm mini starter?
I'd like to see it in 14 ga...
Yes, I think it would easily clear a mini starter. It was just up against a regular size starter. I did a cut & weld to get it about 1/2" away from the stater....maybe a little more than 1/2".
Yeah, but it is 18 ga. stainless steel. Also, where the small pipes are welded onto the log pipe the holes in it are too small at cyl 8 and 2. I cut off the pipe and opened the holes up. It was pretty bad........like a 1 - 1 1/4" hole for a 1 5/8" pipe.
I made a bracket from the fuel pump plate to the T4 flange for strength. May be too strong and the SS grows and then cracks?
I don't know. Some sort of china knock-off of something. I will try to take a pic with a tape measure showing how far the cyl 5 pipe sticks out near the steering rod.
Thats what I was gonna use when i bought my BBS manifold, a hedman header, but i found a guy on here selling a set of hooker 2460's with ypipe for 180 bucks. Was gonna break in the motor with the shorties and y pipe then put the turbo stuff on while keeping driver side shorty on there.
Any cheap driver side header that will fit in the engine bay of the Gbody can be used for the turbo kit, else use a factory manifold as it will do ok for most power goals under 600whp or so. Fabbing up a crossover pipe isnt all that hard to do if you have time and can tack weld/cut pipe. Thats the problem as alot of people dont have access to those tools. Die grinder/cutoff wheels, chop saw, sawzall, and lincoln home mig welder were the 3 most useful tools i ever bought.
Any cheap driver side header that will fit in the engine bay of the Gbody can be used for the turbo kit, else use a factory manifold as it will do ok for most power goals under 600whp or so.
I agree. Get a few mandrel bends off of ebay and weld onto the stock y-pipe manifold flange. A stock manifold will do about 600fwhp with a turbo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Fabbing up a crossover pipe isnt all that hard to do if you have time and can tack weld/cut pipe. Thats the problem as alot of people dont have access to those tools. Die grinder/cutoff wheels, chop saw, sawzall, and lincoln home mig welder were the 3 most useful tools i ever bought.
That is a good tool set. For someone doing a one time turbo setup and minimal around the garage work could also cheap out with a Harbor Freight tool set including a flux core welder. I think you could ebay a complete used tool set with welder for under $100 to $150 bucks.
I picked up a set of shorty f-body hedman headers #68470 for test fitting. They are 18 ga, 1-5/8" tubes, 1/4" flang 3" ball socket collecter.
The fit...
Driver side, I had to remove the stearing shaft to install this header (no big deal). With the shaft installed there's about 3/8" clearance to the #3 tube. The collum shift arm clears the header no problem.
That is a good tool set. For someone doing a one time turbo setup and minimal around the garage work could also cheap out with a Harbor Freight tool set including a flux core welder.
Yeah i got a flux core wire welder by lincoln that you can get at Home Depot/Lowes. 450 bucks. My first exhaust system i made with just sawzall and cutoff wheel. The turbo build i needed to cut bends alittle more accurately so i got a cheap chopsaw, 140 bucks.
Worked out well and definately worth the money. 2 exhaust systems and a complete turbo build so far, plus i welded my subframe connectors, various brackets for things like throttle cables, fuel filters, nitrous solenoid mounts, etc. Even did some non-car related stuff
Will a C4 vette manifold fit the Gbody? They seem to flow very well for a factory manifold. Very popular starting points for a build.
You can easily fab up something as simple as this:
Highly likely driver's side tube to steering shaft problem. It may need some massaging there or a cut & weld. It is stainless steel pipe. Check theturboforum.com.
The turbo forum has a lot of negative things to say about the ebay stuff, do you know anyone that has had any success with the single turbo setup above in the first post, or maybe a decent way to strengthen its design. Someone mentioned on the other forum not to brace the heavier turbo with brackets to the engine, but it seems like a decent idea though, Any thoughts, because I'm considering buying this setup just to mess around with, with a boost cap of around 15-psi?
The BBS design used Accel short plugs on the pass. side. Since the china version looks like the BBS design then it needs shorties too. He had to find out the hard way. He doesn't mention it hitting the steering rod on the driver's side.
i also want to no how the fit is and if they will crack, anyone?
The pass side fits and the drivers side needs to have the tube shortened to clear the steering shaft. Also the crossover pipe needs to be fixed, cause the flange is welded on wrong. at least it was with mine.
I have a set laying around with a 3" dp and a crossover that are already modified to fit a gbody with ac and stock starter. pm me anyone is interested.
xs power is also ssautochrome don't buy a thing off them.Google ssautochrome you'll a long list of people pissed there turbo blew intercooler leaks etc etc.
The single turbo ssautochrome headers aren't that bad. The weak link is their crossover, as a few friends of mine bought a couple of sets for their Grand Nationals, and put them to the test. They had them under extreme conditions, and all of them, every single one, cracked in the crossover, but the headers themselves took the beating very well. If you pick up a set, I strongly recommend having a muffler shop fabricate you a stronger crossover pipe, and you should be good to go as far as headers are concerned....
Only thing i used from them was a turbo manifold for a rb25det it didn't even fit half the bolt holes where way off.I had to cut the head flange off and make my own to even use it.Then 2 of the pipes had pin holes they leaked.That's when i tossed it and made my own.