Power AdderGetting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.
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I know that the 5-speeds got a bigger turbo from my limited reading here. I pulled a turbo from an 85 t-bird a few years ago, but never paid attention to whether it was a stick or an auto. How do I go about finding out?
Just to clarify, you're looking for it on the turbine housing, some of the compressor housings may have a 60 on them...
For that matter, for a 305 or 350, you could probably get away with either. Both have the same size compressor, the smaller one will just build boost sooner (well, and will be more of a restriction at high RPM's, but why would you wind a turbo motor to high rpm's anyway).
OTOH, if it says IHI on the compressor housing it's the smaller setup from the later cars and some SVO's, which is probably too small.
I guess that the Jim85IROC threw me off, but I just caught one of your other posts about turbocharging the 2.8.
yea, that is all they made on the turbocoupes, but they flow plenty to make about 270hp efficiently or over 300 if pushed to the ragged edge.
They are actually the same size as the turbo used on the GN's, but the GN used a proprietary compressor wheel and a different exhaust flange.
If you use it and if you decide later that you need more power then you have a few choices: you could convert it the a T-3/T4 hybrid, by basically putting a small T4 compressor housing on the front of it, most turbo shops can do this. If you just think that you're getting too much exhaust restriction you could either convert to the .82AR turbine that was used on the T3's by the early buick turbo motors, Pontiac 301 and some diesel engines or by having your turbine wheel clipped. Or you could convert to a larger turbo: on the cheap I’d consider a hoslett HX35 off of a cummings turbodiesel from a doge ram (I’ve seen them go for $130-250 or so on ebay), it will be slow to spool but will have an awesome top end (I know someone running one on a 2.3L ford turbo motor), and ultimately would be capable of pushing 30+ psi boost into that engine.
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA I guess that the Jim85IROC threw me off, but I just caught one of your other posts about turbocharging the 2.8.
yea, that is all they made on the turbocoupes, but they flow plenty to make about 270hp efficiently or over 300 if pushed to the ragged edge.
They are actually the same size as the turbo used on the GN's, but the GN used a proprietary compressor wheel and a different exhaust flange.
If you use it and if you decide later that you need more power then you have a few choices: you could convert it the a T-3/T4 hybrid, by basically putting a small T4 compressor housing on the front of it, most turbo shops can do this. If you just think that you're getting too much exhaust restriction you could either convert to the .82AR turbine that was used on the T3's by the early buick turbo motors, Pontiac 301 and some diesel engines or by having your turbine wheel clipped. Or you could convert to a larger turbo: on the cheap I’d consider a hoslett HX35 off of a cummings turbodiesel from a doge ram (I’ve seen them go for $130-250 or so on ebay), it will be slow to spool but will have an awesome top end (I know someone running one on a 2.3L ford turbo motor), and ultimately would be capable of pushing 30+ psi boost into that engine.
Uh no the turbo coupe got the International harvester turbo. the turbo really sucked butt. They are only capable of about 17 psi of boost on the 2.3. with the 2.8 you should get about 10-15 psi. The GN turbo has bigger intake and exhaust houseings. The SVO turbo was a garett that used the t-3 center section. You can make about 240 hp with the international harvester turbo and about 280 with the SVO turbo. Less than a stock l-98 with exhaust work. You really want a Hybrid for your car. You can get a good boost in power but you won't make over 250 hp with out alot of mods and tuneing and an awesome exhaust.
__________________ 2002 chevy RCSB truck with 5.3 and posi 15.1@93 stone stock
90 IROC l98
best corected 13.49 @101.4
mods
full exhaust, AFPR, pulley, jet stage 1 chip, billet servo, 52mm throttle body, slp runners and a few other little things.
243 RWHP and 342 RWTQ
oh yeah... I haven't taken the flanges off it yet, but by sticking my finger in there and fooling around, it seems like there's no play on the shaft at all, and the blades seem to spin fairly freely. Maybe I can just bolt the bastard on without screwing with a rebuild.
Man, that things dirtier than mine are. Yeah, you've got the bigger (5-speed) turbo. You might as well stick it on as if it doesn't have much play. If it works you're good, if not you can rebuild it.
That is a garett turbo t-3 but that thing is pretty foul looking. Man be careful if you take the exhaust houseing off it will likely break some bolts. The bad news is i don't think that thing has water lines to cool the center section. The water and oil cooled turbos last forever.
__________________ 2002 chevy RCSB truck with 5.3 and posi 15.1@93 stone stock
90 IROC l98
best corected 13.49 @101.4
mods
full exhaust, AFPR, pulley, jet stage 1 chip, billet servo, 52mm throttle body, slp runners and a few other little things.
243 RWHP and 342 RWTQ
I'm guessing I won't break a single bolt taking it apart. It's fugly looking, but other than a pile of dirt and a little surface rust, it's real nice. My factory exahust manifolds are way, way worse than that.
If you're having a problem with one, before putting a lot of force on it try soaking it, whacking it with a hammer a couple of times, then try to tighten it a little before loosening it. All of these will help loosen the bolt if it's stuck.
I'm pretty familiar with getting bolts off. I'm all proud that I only broke 1 of the 4 y-pipe to manifold bolts when I took the 15 year old exhaust off my IROC a few years ago.
Joshua-
You going to put turbos on an 11:1 engine? Or is that a different engine? Anyway, if it helps you out I'll look around here for some turbos. I'm assuming you're looking for the .63 A/R T3? I've got the only two from the local yards, but I might be going to Muncie tomorrow to look around. If I find anything I'll let you know.
Ummm, no. I just got this engine running over this past winter. I am starting on parts hunting for my next project, which will be to TT the engine I have now. I will be dropping the CR to about 8.5-9:1. I will hopefully be able to buy a set of heads to better suit that type of induction. I have a lot of parts to get rid of also, this is part of the funding I have to make this project happen, as I know my allowance each week will be nill after the baby is born.
__________________ Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28 -- SOLD
1985 C-10
Ummm, no. I just got this engine running over this past winter. I am starting on parts hunting for my next project, which will be to TT the engine I have now. I will be dropping the CR to about 8.5-9:1.
Makes sense. Didn't think you'd try and put boost on something with that high of compression. I have heard of people running pretty high compression ratios with the vortecs and still using low octane (like 10:1 with 87), so maybe just a little lower compression would work with boost. Out of curiosity, has anyone on here done forced induction with the vortecs or know anyone who has?
I don't know about forced induction, but my CR is 11.07:1 to be exact. I usually run 92 in it, without spark knock that I can hear. I don't really know where my timing is set, i still need to get some timing tape on the balancer, and run a light. I do know the throttle response is excellent. No hesitaion at all. In 5th, at cruising speeds, if I step on I can hear a faint knock until the secondaries open. After that either the exhaust drowns it out, or it goes away.
Nail 3rd and hit the floor, all you hear is a screaming engine, and you can feel your stomach start to press on your spine.
__________________ Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28 -- SOLD
1985 C-10