sketchy

iTrader: (3)

Hey, i have experiance in turbos and such but as much bad things that happen to my car. i really dont want to have the oil feed coming from the car, im wondering if i can get an oil pump and oil resevoir why couldnt i just make that lubricate the turbo? also my car is carburated and if i got a blow through carb is that all id have to do? i havent really seen too much info on rear mount carb setups. but one of the reasons i would have my setup like this is because...if my turbo falls off the car, or breaks in some way the car should run like it does now, woudlnt have to worry about the motor loosing oil and the car getting too rich. i have a huge garret turbo with a 110/ar on intake side and 115 on exhaust, the exhaust is one of thoes siamesed housings and pretty big. it has a little shaft play so i dont want to commit to building a crazy setup as ive bough used turbo before and made complete setups only to find that the turbos burn alot of oil or the wastegates are messed up and such.

also im wondering if i could safely run 5psi on this sort of setup, this isnt a dyno queen, or street car anymore, i trailer it to events where it runs near redline or bouncing off it the whole time. this just seems like the idea thing to do as i do not want any more heat in the engine bay, i dont want any more weight up front, i need about 50-100 more hp if i want to shift up while drifting for TONS of smoke. i have a flat tappet cam with around 250 duration and .5 lift, hyernumetic speed pro pistons and steel crank. i belive the compression is decently high prob 12.1 is turboing this motor in its current state a good idea? sorry i have so many questions but i really want to get my car out there next season and i want to find a way to make my car both fast and reliable. severly limited budget though from all the money ive already spent on the car.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

with a compression ratio like that....your motor is gonna nuke in 5 mins....scrap your plan for turbo.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

hmm. i really want to do this, i just need to find a cheap way to lower compression, maby its a good time to buy forged pistons or thicker head gasket. if i do this its going to be awsome. wehre the trunk floor is ill cut it out, put the turbo exactly where i want it, and then remake the trunk floor around it, have the charge piping come through the car and into the firewall. then have a naca duct pull air into an airbox and to the turbo inlet, have a nice heat/splash shield and have the wastegate in a cool spot.

heres the advice i need from you guys. OILING! is there a way to externally oil my turbo, because i do not want the turbo heating up my engine oil, and i dont want to put any more stress on my oil pump. i was thinking i can get a mechanical oil pump off a car, fabricate some sorta thing that attaches it to a motor and have a inlet and outlet so circulate the oil at a constant rpm. i dont see why this wouldnt work as a car engine turns the oil pump the same way to do the same thing. OR if they already make resonably priced units like this.

Also i need advice on how well blow through carbs would work on this application and if a blow through carb works fine on an NA car, as if my plan falls through i will just use the blow through carb with the nipple blocked off to run the car NA (if thats possible) let me know guys thanks!

project89

iTrader: (1)

#1 that turbo has way to big of an ex side u should be looking for .63 sized housing

#2 there is no reliable way to setup the turbos own oil system, plumpingit to the motor will not heat up the oil anymore nor will it put stress on ur oil pump

the only way ur going to get a turbo on that thing in its current state would be to run e85

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

k so smaller turbo and forged pistons. my car has a remote dual ford oil filter setup (big oil filters) can i still have this and still be able to supply oil to a turbo from like 15 feet away? and pump it back with a sketchy return pump? cuz i really dont care about my turbo, id rather blow the turbo than the engine. yes i could tap of the oil sending unit and put a t on it, and put the oil return where my mechanical fuel pump is but idk. it just seems dumb. why do i have to have a oil pump to return the oil thats being pumped to the turbo? that just sounds redundant, id rather use an oil pump...to pump the oil into the turbo and out of the turbo. i can put an oil cooler and fan inline of the pump as i have a motorcycle radiator and fan in my backyard that would probably work perfect to cool the oil. im just wondering WHY i have to use the oil pump thats on my engine to support the turbo, it donest take all that much oil pressure and with most my experiances a high volume oil pump and a high rpm engine blows out turbo seals. i guess im missing something here, can someone explain to me in full detail why i cant just use an oil pump to pump oil through my turbo without me having to plumb it into and out of the engine? im sorry if im being a jerk but if im going to be told i cant do something id really like good reasoning. becuase there is always a way around an obsticle.

project89

iTrader: (1)

well the turbo drain is gravity fed, if this backs up u blow out the seals on the turbo.

the size of ur oil filters mean nothing,u add more oil into the motor to make sure its filled once the oil filters are full,u would do the same once the turbo feed line is filled.whihc prolly wouldnt be all that much if u figure about 8-10 ft of -3 line.

u do not need an oil cooler it will only reduce flow and lower oil presure

id be more worried about the hv oil pump getting starved at high rpm cause it pumped all the oil out of ur pan into the top end of the motor.unles sur using an larger capacity aftermarket pan

there is no known electric pump thats affordable thats capable of continuosly pumping oil at the rated psi and temps.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

i do have oil restrictors in the motor if that means anything. thank you for the information now it does make more sense to me. will the turbo make it easier to starve the top end like you said? because im a lil worried abotu that as my last engine threw rod and main bearings. i mean if lubricating my turbo with the motor in any way ill definatly do it. im pretty familiar with turbos as ive turbed my daily driver and other peoples cars with good results (spent 400 bucks and my civic blew the doors of my camaro) which made me kinda mad actually.... its just im not sure how the oil lines work when there soo far away from the car. if i have an electrical problem or something with my return pump im afraid my cars not gona have oil pressure. also wondering if its a good idea to have an oil temp gauge and shoudl i put it before or after the turbo.

Anyway oiling isnt a big deal i guess ill proabbly have to do it the way i didnt want to. but onto the next couple issues. does anyone have experiance with blow through carbs? and mechanical advanvce distributors when it comes to turbo cars. im sure theres a weight and springset somewhere thats good for a turbo setup like mine. and still want to know if a blow through carb works okay on a car seeing no boost (in case i buy this thing and decide to just have my car run no turbo)

and anyone selling a set of forged pistons for a 355?

project89

iTrader: (1)

u read that wrong ur not going to starve the top end with oil with a hv oil pump.

running a hv oil pump on a sbc with a stock pan is not a good idea because the oil pump can pump the oil pan dry,therby starving the oilpump for oil. which causes a loss of oil presure,specialy when the motor turns high rpms

Batass

If your running race gas, your cr should be ok. Vortech says you can run 14:1 with 5 psi. No way with pump gas.

Three ways to adjust total timing,

Lock out distributor, (running high timing at idle)

Get a weight and bushing kit to limit total timing

Boost timing master.

You might not need to take out any timing with that low boost. I only need to take out 4* with pump gas.

Cheapest pumps I've seen are shurflo's for 120 bucks. Mocal pumps handle higher oil temps and are around 160.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

hmm thats nice to know. thanks for the info. im thinking about using a holset hx 35 turbo. what u guys think bout that? im not sure exactly how much horsepower i want. i just know that if my car has 400 right now. id like to think it could make 500 or so with this setup. is this realistic? all the turbo fitment stuff and fabrication i shouldnt hae much problem doing its just the technical stuff and numbers that im going to need some help with. is ethanol an option? and what would i have to do to a blow through carb to be able to run ethanol? im really behind when it comes to fuels.

project89

iTrader: (1)

hx35 will be to small

Batass

I was recommended to use a 5.9 cummins turbo which if I researched correctly was an hx35 which I also thought would be too small. I think powerstroke 7.3 use hx40 or similar. Don't know, not my forte, project89 can help you bigtime there.

If your making 400 now, you should make well over 500 with 5 psi.

Ethanol (E85) is a great option if you can get it. You don't have a carb yet right? You can modify a holley for blow-through and use a quick fuel E85 kit with their metering blocks.

There are many threads on here about making your own and E85 set up.

You could also buy a carb ready to go for about 8-900 bucks from CSU or AED. I use a mighty demon blow through carb that I bought used for 400 bucks. It'll get converted to E85 someday if I don't have to completely change my fuel system to keep up with the demand.

project89

iTrader: (1)

there is one additional problem with a rear mount and e85.
a motor on e85 actually has cooler egt's this coupled with a rear mount setup makes it just a lil bit harder to get rid of lag

i do belibe the hx35 maxes around 450 hp when pushed to there limits,

ideally i would shoot for a 60-1 , a 62-1 or a 70 mm turbo with a ptrimed hotside

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

Hey, i actually do have a carb on my car right now. its a holley 750. mechanical secondaries of cores. but its not a double pumper. hmm. lower egts might make a smaller turbo work better for my application then right? you guys are being very helpful. thidgen.org is the best forum by far! i am pretty new when it comes to carbs however. the fact that mines not a double pumper right now does that make it not a good base carb to start from to do this turbo thing?

project89

iTrader: (1)

the more heat u have in the ex the easier it is to spool the turbo

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

hmm....this would be a pretty cool setup becuase this would let me run my car NA when i want and i could switch to turbo pretty quickly....right? assuming i buy another carburator eventually. do you think the ethanol will effect it to that the turbo spools Later or spool less/not at all. becuase if it spools less/not at all a smaller turbo should compesate for that at the cost of not making as much power. does anyone know exactly how much later it would spool? maby a gasahol mix could help this? im not sure but it just always seems like theres a way to make things work and you guys see that too. i guess i wana see every possibiltiy of what i can do before i commit to one single approach.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

out of these turbos does anyone see one that stands out as a really good one to use?




14412AA070R14412AA070 IHI (VF11) TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT11825632C91R1825632C91 GT40 TURBO REBUILT1409250-5002R409250-5002 GARRETT (T04B15) TURBO REBUILT1409300-9011R409300-9011 GARRETT T04B27 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT1443120-0001R443120-0001 (23501285) COMPRESSOR WHEEL REBUILT6465360-9013R465360-9013 GARRETT T04B42 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT1465384-5R465384-5 GARRETT TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT2465446-10R465446-10 VOLVO TB0313 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT149177-01310R49177-01310 MITSUBISHI TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT249177-01410R49177-01410 MITSUBISHI TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT249177-01700R49177-01700 MIITSUBISHI TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT149178-01030R49178-01030 MITSUBISHI TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT15324-970-6700R5324-970-6700 KKK TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT191-2892702791-28927027 GARRETT TB-8511 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT191-368469891-3684698 GARRETT T04B TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT2ST50RST50 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT1T46RT46 TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT1TE04HRMITSUBISHI TE04H TURBOCHARGER - REBUILT

Batass

Couldn't tell ya anything about them single pumpers. Less exhaust velocity is right, didn't think about that. Don't know how much the lag would be affected. With the right hotside though, I would think not too much?

You COULD mix your own gasohol, but how practical is that really? You could never just fill up at the pump.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

YESSSS!!!! u guys! i just got off the phone with the guy who made my engine i have 9.5 to one compression!!! (its complicated because i orginally bought a 383 with 12.5 to one compression and then traded back for a stronger 350 that fit in the car better) normally i build my own motors but i had a week until an important race and this guys motor with labor was cheaper than parts! anyway i have 9.5 to one compression. this changes things!!! what you guys think?

project89

iTrader: (1)

sketchy if u have the money to spare pick up a master power t70 with a t4 ptrim hotside.

if not they have an ebay equivlant of that turbo for 329 bucks i think it was. id have to go back into my pms and dbl check unless batass remembers lol

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

im

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

im thinkin hx 40 if i can find one. i want a good quality turbo. not gona do ebay knock offs. my idea seems more realistic now that i know my compression ratio is lower. so im going to sell my rediculously big turbo (maby someone wants it?) and get something rebuilt from a desil truck thats good qualift ylike a holset hx40 or something similar. does anyone know anything similar to an hx40?

project89

iTrader: (1)

an hx40 may work id have to go look ata map for one.
the ebay turbos aint all that bad ive been beating the hell out of mine for dam near 3 years now.i also know alot of ppl putting down some big numbers with a few of the ebay turbos.

but since u want to stay away from them i really would go with a master power turbo, u can get a t70 with a ptrim hotside with ur choice of housing for just over 500 bucks brand new.

i knwo u can get somethign used cheaper, but if it needs a rebuild or anything its gonna end up costing u the same amount of money as the mp unit. the t70 unit is sized just about perfect for what ur wanting to do


got any pictures of the big turbo u got now??

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

okay guys, i am really thinkin about doing this, im trying to make a price list right now. im looking at the mocal pumps as i want a high quality oil pump becuase i <3 my engine does anyone know exactly which one to use for my application?

so far ive found a brand new blow throgh carb for 488!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Barry+Grant/13...0BT-R/10002/-1

if anyone can find me a better deal on any of these parts let me know!

im gona need a carb hat.
alumium or lightweight tubing for the charge pipes 2.5 inch?
fittings and such for the oil lines and -an line. (not sure what size to use exactly)

gona need to find a turbo thats decent, looking to spend around $200 ish

im going to be pulling my motor out tomaro to change all my seals and such. is there anyhting else i shoudl do while its out? im wondering if i should tap the oil pan or if i should weld a fitting onto the fuel pump blockoff plate and use that as the return instead.

project89

iTrader: (1)

im not sure on the bg carb u would get a much better answer on the carb over at theturboforums

carb hat u can get from pepboys for 50 bucks nice cast aluminum

ebay for the aluminum charge tube kits

since u will be running an oil scavenge pump u can return the oil back into the valve cover if u wanted to,infact thats how the sts kits do it.but since u dont have a mechanical fuel pump i would deff return the oil there

only thing i would do to the motor is open up the top ring gap

Batass

Yep 330 bucks. A few guys are running ebay turbos with good luck, just have to get the right ones, some are garbage.

For 200 bucks its gonna have to be a used turbo. You'll have to look around at what you can get then look up the specs.

Carb sounds good. Same one I run, no issues.

Yep ebay tubing, comes with prebent stuff.

If your still just going to run 5 psi, N/A ring gap is fine. But it would be good insurance and I'd def do it if you ever plan on running more boot.

daverr

iTrader: (1)

ditch the carb.
rear mount= garbage.

do it right the first time.

front mount and efi.

call turbo companies like turbonetics and precision turbo for turbo recommendations.

project89

iTrader: (1)

isnt there a rule against nonsense posts like this????

daverr

iTrader: (1)

what nonsense???
why do u want lead ppl down a path of deep confusion and frustration??

project89

iTrader: (1)

its nonsense and does not contribute to the original posters ? in any shape way or form
so what if a rear mount isnt as good
he already stated he wont front mount it and hes doing carb.
pretty sure he has a drifting car even though he hasnt said exactly what its used for.



if u have nothign useful to actually add u shouldnt be posting plain and simple

its been proven time and time again rear mounts do work but they are not optimal who gives a rats *** if its optimal it works .
he never asked if it was
theres so many god dam posts on this board u have to sort threw 20 posts of gargbage to find the info u want or need its rediculous

Batass

Dave just about every one of your posts are negative posts, saying no one builds 350s anymore, carbs are junk, don't use a turbo-build the motor instead. Yea that makes a GREAT street car. Quit wasting people's time and contribute something useful besides your useless negative opinions.

daverr

iTrader: (1)

it is not my intentions to make negative posts. so ill explain some of my opinions that u point out that i make.

no one builds 350 anymore..... that one doesnt really need explaining really ...but ill say my turbo motor is 413" the machine shop i go to barely make any 350" they say 400-632" is the norm. When u want to make big power u need a nice aftermarket block like the little "m" it would be waste to only make it a 350 right? there is no replacement for displacement.

carbs are junk............in force induction blowthru applications. efi does it 10x better and accurate.

dont use a turbo build a motor instead... this applies to ppl wanting to make less than 1100 hp on a streetable pump gas engine. today u could build BBC making 1000 hp on pump gas and drive on the street without having to rely on a poweradder.

Batass

I don't want this thread to get off topic, but those are your opinions which generally aren't helping the poster.

I'm not going to say your wrong but I'll argue the efi. How is it better? A properly tuned blow through will make the same power if not more. The fuel being introduced sooner into the airstream cools the charge a good bit more than efi. One disadvantage is cold weather starting without a choke. EFI is more accurate but much more expensive. For many many people a carb is all they need. There's no absolutes.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

its okay. i kind of understand his thinking. i think he may be thinking im going for the ultamate hp or drivablitly, or trying to max out this car. but what i am trying to do is gain more usable track power that fits my budget and balances my car out. i can go for a less effiecnt turbo design becuase my horsepower goals are not as high, this is for good reason as i dont want my drivetrain to be the weak link. also i do not my cooling system to be the weak link. one important part in drifting isnt the max horsepower but average horsepower throughout the day and weight balance. i do not want any more weight up front. Also i do not want any more HEAT up front. as when you run a car VERY hard it builds up alota underhood temps. this can be cured using very high dollar parts but i do not want to spend money to keep heat down when i can opt for a setup that keeps most the heat away from the car at the cost of some horsepower. Also the added turbo lag from this setup doesnt really matter because when drifting you **** wihtout letting off and 2nd gear is as low as the car ever gets. a big turbo can stay spooled the entire lap if driven correctly. so you can see with my limited budget. using a turbo that is proven on trucks with much higher boost pressures that i can get for alot cheaper at the cost of less effiecnecy both saves me money and helps to insure i dont make TOO much hp to where it damages my engine or causes me to break more parts than i need to. SO yes you are correct in the fact if i want to build a dyno queen but....in my setup cheap maintenance is key. for instance if i spend 600 bucks i could have a spare longblock to keep throughout the seasons in case something does happen. when you build your motor to the point where its a crowned jewel when you blow it up it can cost you a season where as a easier to get 350 only sets you back a little in wost case scenerio.

Batass

Something you might want to consider with going carb is the low speed fuel enrichment. I don't hardly know anything about drifting, but if your only at 1/4 throttle at high rpms while your tires are spinning, could be leaner than you want. Which could make for some poor driveablilty if you richen it.

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

yeah, are you saying that ill have that prob if i run carb and turbo? becuase ive ran most of this year with a carb and i have a wideband. it doenst get too bad but i think i know what you mean. so far its not too big a deal.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i dont think u will have to much of a problem.like u said u dont street drive the car,its trailiored.

whatbatass is refering to is if ur only using 1/4 throttle when u get the tires going and ur sliding that it could run lean on u.and u would have to richen up the jetting.

this inturn would make the car run rich as hell during normal crusing,but i dont see that affecting u in anyway,just cause of what u do with the car

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

thanks for clearing that up. time to sell stuff so i can order parts! probably gona take a lil while to make this as somehow my manifold cracked on engine removal. and i gotta get new motor mounts and exhaust gaskets cuz they were burned out!.

project89

iTrader: (1)

do u have pics of the large turbo u have now??? i might be interested in it for a nother project i have going on

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

hey i have this turbo at home! will this work with what i am trying to do? cuz i can find rebuild kits for like 90 bucks for this. if this turbo is right that would be pretty sweet because its external wastegate so i dont have all the extra weight of an internal gate (because desil wastegates are set too high to use)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

Also does anyone know if a 38mm external wastegate will cut it? as i cant find that many lowpsi adjsutable wastegates. thankis
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/38MM-...Q5fAccessories

project89

iTrader: (1)

that wastegate is a pos

ill find u a better one
----------
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...QQcmdZViewItem

just get a cheap boost controller, u can safley dbl the spring presure with one, so start with a 6psi spring and u can goto 12-(14 psi tops, anymore and u need a diff spring) if u wanted to

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

im not sure i would like to start boost at 6psi. idealy i would like a wastegate that lest me start with 4 psi and ajust to 7 or 8. they dont make a boost controler that can step down the boost numbers. thanks for savin me from a crappy wastegate though! anyway any word on if my turbo would work for me?? it is pretty big...but its got the siamesed exhaust thing. and the exhasut is the high performance 115. ar housing...haha :edit u know what i think i could just get a diff spring or soemthing im sure. thats a great deal ill probly buy that this week if i can find a smaller spring for it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

u can buy a 3 psi spring for it on ebay,imho start with 6 psi anything lower is a waste. the turbo u have the ex housing is way to big thing would like never spool up in a rear mount setup like that

when i first did my turbo setup i bought a 3psi spring cause i figured the same as u start really low and work my way up,but i just ended up starting with the 6 psi spring

now i could see of starting at 6 psi instead of 12 but from 6/7 psi down to 3-4 isnt even worth it

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

i guess i should put my turbo in the classified section then. looks like a good turbo maby i can trade striaght for a turbo that i can make use of. if nobody wants it too badly i could prob still use it to mock up the whole kit.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That is a 59 mm comp. inducer, right? So that side will max. out around 550 BHP. The turbine should flow about the same as two T3 turbos with .64 A/R turbine housings. Overall, I think it would make a decent remote mount unit. Although, you never posted what kind of characteristics you want the engine to have. I think it will spool around 3000 - 3500 RPM.

You can cut the stock wastegate housing and install a smaller spring if you know how to do the calcs. I did that with a diesel turbo that had the wastegate set for 20-30 PSI. You need to be careful when you weld it back together. It really messes up people when they look at the giant turbo with a "stock" diesel wastegate on it. If you don't know how to do the wastegate mod. then buy the WG that project89 posted.

That 250 duration cam you posted. Is that @ .050? If so, that cam is way too big if for that turbo (RPM range) if you have heads, intake, and exhaust that is correct for that cam. That is a 6500 RPM peak HP cam. The engine would outflow the turbo. That is, the turbo would be TOO SMALL.

If that 250 duration is advertised then it would be in the 212 - 214 @ .050 range. That would work well with that turbo. You probably have around 350 HP and 6 PSI would add another 100 - 120 HP or so and put you around 450 - 475 BHP. That turbo would work well in this case.

What is the duration of time the car is run? A water/alky setup may be worth adding depending on run time.

As for Dave's comments. His posts are always things like you need a 600+ ci aftermarket block, you need a high end ECM that costs thousands, carbs can't work with boost.
All of that is opinion and works well if you are loaded with money. For most of us we learn how to get by using slightly less than ideal parts (non-aftermarket blocks, factory ECMs, Holley carbs). All will work fine (maybe not optimal) for our applications. There are three things to take into account. Smarts, Time, and Money. Dave seems to have more of the money side. That is not a dig, he just doesn't like to seem to deal with the other two. As for me, I am cheap but have time and tiny bit of smarts. There are a lot of stock parts of this and that which you can piece together and build a decent setup.

project89

iTrader: (1)

junk hes doing a drift car so hes going to have minimal load on the motor for what he does. that 1.10 ar housing is gonna be hard to spool under those conditions

while the cold side of that turbo is a decent size the hotside would work on a street car,but i do see problems trying spool that thing in 2-nd and 3rdgear with pretty much minimal load on the engine

Batass

"As for me, I am cheap but have time and tiny bit of smarts." Lol, were on the same level.

Here's some good info I got from another site, courtesey of "reamo04"-

Model:........Compressor/Turbine
Holset H1D....1.85/2.165
Holset H1D....1.969/2.165
Holset H1D/E..1.969/2.165
Holset H1D/E..2.047/2.165
Holset H1D/E..2.126/2.165
Holset H1C/E..2.126/2.244
Holset H1C/E..2.283/2.244
Holset H1C/E..2.126/2.362
Holset H1E....2.205/2.362
Holset H1E....2.283/2.362
Holset H1E.... 2.362/2.559
Holset HX40... 2.362/2.559
Holset HX50... 2.48/2.835
Holset HX50... 2.638/3.031
Holset HX55... 2.638/3.031
Holset HX55... 2.835/3.031
60-1………2.324/3.000”
62-1………2.441/3.000”
Tso4……..2.300/3.304”
T-61……..2.382/3.544”
T-64……..2.490/3.670"
T-66…… 2.580/3.584"
T-70………2.720/3.850"
T-72………2.840/4.030”
T-76……..3.020/4.030”


Turbo______CFM______Racing HP____Daily HP
HX35______600________420_________330
HX40______800________560_________440
T66_______800________560 _________440
B1________900________630_________495
H2E_______1000_______700_________550
HX50______1000_______700_________550
HX55______1050_______735_________578
HT3B______1100_______770_________605
T76_______1350_______945 _________743
HT60______1400_______980_________770
B2________1500_______1050________825
HX60______1550_______1085________853
T88_____1450-1750__1015-1225____798-963
HT4B______1800_______1260________990
Big Brother_1900_______1330________1045
T91_______2000_______1400________1100
HC5A/HX82_2450_______1715________1348
T100______2600_______1820________1430
T105______2900_______2030________1595

sketchy

iTrader: (3)

okay well this is startin to get a little confusing. but here is what i have. i have patriot heads. headman headers, im gona hvae to call the guy who built the motor to verify but i belive the cam duration is either 240 or 250 and .55 lift. depending on what tires i use i can load the engine up alot or not load it up. the stickier tires i run in the rear the more load on the motor and the higher speeds i can drift around them. of cores this breaks nearly every piece of the car in the process...but can def be under load. i guess ill get crackin on regasketing my motor and get everything i need other than the turbo, i can always try this one out. my only problem with my turbo is it has the feed and retrun on the same side of the turbo and theres no fittings. instead theres 4 bolts around the outside of the 2 holes where a flange is supposed to go. i need to either find the oil flange off of an f250 turbo pickup or make something...

project89

iTrader: (1)

ur right u have it it wont hurt to try, that turbo needs the pedistol to hook up the oil and return lines

check ebay for the pedistol i think they go pretty cheap but if the turbo needs a rebuild + pedistol u prolly better off just buying a new/used turbo

as im sure u know the more u load the motor the faster the turbo will spool

think of it this way driving 50 mph on flat road with 1/3 throttle opening. the turbo is not going to spool.

all the sudden the road goes up a steep incline u dont change the throttle position but the turbo will start spooling up