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hey joe i had a thought... check to see if your floor mat is pushed up under the pedal. i had that problem few weeks ago thought i was going nuts.
That would cause you not to get to full throttle. Had that on the dyno run of the 88 back when I had it. Luckily the guy dynoing it realized it and pulled it out without missing a beat or even one dyno pull....
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floor mat throttle regulator mod no good any opion's on hedman 68470 shorties, minus the crappy y pipe? ya'll see the cheerleaders lock the girl in the house and beat the piss out of her? yes, more proof of how vicious cheerleaders are. my wife was co-cap of cheer squad.
Never did headers on a thirdgen. I did Pacesetters on my 98, and they were a dream. The 8 hours I had been hearing was rediculous. I think 3 all by myself.
I used a Texas Speed y-pipe with cats, was too low, and sold that and bought the no cats. I would rather run cats for not so stinky exhaust, but it was too low.
FInd a good pipe bender, and a y-pipe should not be that big of a deal....
My headers probably took about 8 hours. Including the Y pipe also and the time getting the I pipe made and hooked up. The dag on passenger side header was a beast due to no room. Had to go from the bottom and that took some effort with bending I think an ac line thats right there on the frame. All worth it though
my floor mat got jammed and caused throotle to stick i dont know how? i got the powermaster in this afternoon. that thing is a beast youre right willie. i would like to do headers myself but later down the line. car runs and sounds better with 140amp alt though. i will put up pics later so you can see the 4 gauge wires i got for power and grounds for the big 3.
orange is my fav color on chev, dont know why. corvette, camaro doesn't matter. guy i went to school w/ dad built 70's camaro metallic orange white stripes, finest car of those years i've ever seen. mike how does higher amp make car sound better? details. and pics duh!
i have more current flow so not sapping power from performance. just doesnt seem bogged down. like it has a better tone now. ill get the pics up tomorrow. the days at work have been long and tiring... and hotter than you know what. i think you will like my wires though... battery cables. lol.
Oh yea. I would need a lot of wire. Dag on alternator and battery are on opposite sides. Im going to get kwik to look at my car sunday. Next will probably be new grill and headliner.
good man joe bout time! mike pics are worth a thousand words. let me guess those were shortest wires available? got IAT hooked into open element now. real clean too. mike isn't there delco 140amp on trucks?
good man joe bout time! mike pics are worth a thousand words. let me guess those were shortest wires available? got IAT hooked into open element now. real clean too. mike isn't there delco 140amp on trucks?
i want to say yes on the truck. (wires) no not the shortest. just ones i had at the house. i had bought what were supposed to be replacement lengths at the part store but positive was to short to reach the starter. so i didnt do either. i jsut kept them (in case) i needed them for anything... and i found a good use for them. if you buy them just get shortest for ground. measure what you need from batt to alt. then you will be good to go for big 3. if you look at my pics you will see the ground is from alt support bracket (which runs straight to exhaust manifold for a ground) to the strut tower mount. i grounded alt and block to the body with one try. since neg batt cable is 4 gauge already and running to the block. everything grounded nicely. that charging cable stays nice and cool now. feel your stock one after a nice drive and tell me how hot that sucker is. this is why big 3 is good thing.
from what i gather the powermaster from summit is the least troublesome install. and cheaper to boot! it seems the 140amp alts from other gm products have to be modified joe you said u need new grill?
I dont really need one, I would like to have a new one. Mine has the 3 holes in it from the liscense plate when I had it and there is some overspray on it. If I got one it would be kool but its not urgent to get one.
Hey all! Not sure if I am going to have any free time till like late May, but who knows.
For the bets on my car.....drum roll...... 458 hp/ 429 lb/ft. Rear wheel numbers. I was hoping for more, but I guess I can't be greedy. My old 88 GTA made 202/302, so I am putting down 50% more torque and more than twice as much hp. 1/4 mile numbers later this year, maybe.
I see you went to Justin. He is a good friend of mine, I live about 5 minutes from his shop. I'm going to make some pulls over there on his dyno in a few weeks with the 2000. Kind of curious to see how the #'s compare to what I did on another dyno near the coast.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewwewwnotme
Only problem Im having Kwik is my high idle. Its so annoying.
Try taking the TB off, and cleaning out the IAC passage on the bottom of the TB. Also, I would look for vacuum leaks. The lines that run under the plenum get brittle with age and have been known to come apart.
Last edited by 86 IROC; 04-11-2008 at 09:57 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i emailed justin about tuning my car, he said he doesn't tune LT motors (it's stock lo3) we'll just leave it at that.
Yeah, he's primarily a ford guy. But, has gotten into doing LS series stuff the past few years. It's a shame he doesn't do other vehicles, he is a great tuner. His first car was a V6 auto 00' mustang. It's very stock appearing, even has a stock long block in it. He built a DIT TT set up, it ran 10.98 @ 127+ on pump gas. That car has kind of gotten cast aside, he picked up a Shelby GT 500 last year. It makes 700+ to the tires.
from what i gather the powermaster from summit is the least troublesome install. and cheaper to boot! it seems the 140amp alts from other gm products have to be modified joe you said u need new grill?
direct bolt in btw no modifacations ness. same casing as what we currently run. which is gm cs 130. if you are looking for a replacement alt. no matter the amprage just make sure the casing is gm cs 130. like willie said price was the thing. $201 shipped and had it here in 3 days. i always check summit first. they are the best place to order from. i never have any problems.
not bashing just saying. vmp tuning likes his fords. wouldn't know a LB9 from a L98. i'm just guessing but he doesn't tune carbs either. if only i lived in north west florida. Moates.net is based in La.
no disrespect ment.j/k is all. not yet, next week. just getting them now, for later. he didn't want too much for them. doing sfc 1st. which will be over summer.
1st thought was bigger=better, but after research i think the spohn and alston ones would provide more exhaust clearance. alston looks to be the easy way. thats the way for me!
Mike, the Kwik kind, has a very nice Z. Car idle is so much better thanks to him and now Im haulting engine thoughts and going to do rear end, subframe connectors and strut tower brace. Then the engine shall be worked on. But in between my airbox will be modded on since I got an extra.
You may want to rethink 3.73's, that's what is in my 91'. They're comming out in a few weeks. I tach 2800 RPM @ 80 MPH, and the car noses over on the big end of the track... too much gear for a car that makes peak power around 4400-4800 RPM. I go through the traps around 5300, you can tell it has stopped pulling around the 1000' mark.
Just throwing in my $0.10 - as I have had experience with that gear in two TPI cars.
Always good to know that. Ill have to do more research.
I tried to find my error codes with the paper clip method and the bulb wouldnt flash at all, it just stayed on. Does anyone know fixing the defect diagnostic circuit or am I just screwed?
Last edited by ewwewwnotme; 04-14-2008 at 04:33 PM.
paperclip in a & b right? some flash first then show code, on my s-10 it didnt flash but took a little while to show code. camaro didn't flash either but did show code. GM's are supposed to flash, so says my book. never heard of bad circuit. i think your bulb might have bad connection. is it esay to play with? if so pull it, scratch or clean off tarnish on old connectors. hmmmmm. ask mike?
__________________ Stock 92' Heritage RS, Punched Cat, Open Air Element, 4th Gen Front Buckets, 180 deg t-stat, KYB GR2 Struts/Shocks
Yea I pmed mike and he says I must have done something wrong. I mean the bulb was in, its hard to reach, have to use needle nose to put in and take it. I even waited a minute to see if it would flash and nothing. I was in A and B and pretty positive it had a connection. I dont know, I guess I have to try again.
Im thinking of getting the Spohn SFC shortly and getting the chasis shop behind Johns Appliance on beville to weld on. Im going to run by next week and see if they can do it.
Glad to get your car running better. Do a search, and you can see how to do the paperclip thing, or just bring it over. I know I live on the other side of the world, but I won't screw you with stuff you don't need..... I am almost thinking it was because your TPS was so far off.
If you are going to the track, or are pure highway, go 3.42's. I loved my 3.73's in my GTA. Much better traffic light to light, and mine was identical powertrain to yours. SLP runners and no headers, but no headers....
I saw 140mph in my car once, so it is not that bad. There are plug in formulas on line to tell you rpm with certain gears. I think you are going to find that the difference between 3.42 and 3.73 at 80mph is not that big of a deal. Just find out what rear end you have. If it is a 9 bolt, get a whole rear end or switch to a 10 bolt. Gears and parts of a 9 bolt are stupid unavailable and expensive.
You have the bottom end and exhaust. Intake, heads and cam. Vortec heads and bottom intake from Scoggin Dickey are cheap and flow good. SLP runners, and get someone to port your plenum. Don't hang out with John and I. We can spend money on cars like no tomorrow. In case I didn't say it enough, thank you for your help yesterday!!!
For those who like a nice cammed dump tube LS1....
You can check out the 9th injector circuits. If they are at all suspect, get yourself a PROM chip from a 89 F-body 350TPI. Swap it, and disconnect all the 9th injector stuff.
Last edited by Kwiksilverz28; 04-14-2008 at 07:26 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hey I recorded that video. I have a 9 bolt sadly. I guess I can just look around some junkyards and see if I can find a 4th gen with 3.42's. the only time I really see 80mph is when I go up to my base so its only about 40 mins a month I go that fast but I still want to get half way decent mileage lol. Mike you did say I can get wider tires back there with a 4th gen rear?
I don't know how wide tires you can use. The rim offset will be wrong with a 4th gen rear. You can use 4th gen rims (like the ZR1's), and get spacers for the front.
You will have to do a search for the tire widths.....
Oh, and yes, you did a fantastic job with the video!
Oh ok good to know on that. Ive got some specs on 4th gens that have the 3.42 gears so now I just need to go to junkyard and see what I can find. This will be after Spohn SFC of course and strut tower brace, maybe going edelbrock with that, havent made a final decision yet.
Yea Im definetly going to have to get the rims once I find the rear end. This should be a fun next couple months. Got to find me a job too , lol. But if anyone finds a 4th gen 10 bolt rear with 3.42 gears in it let me know. Im ready to purchase them now if I can find a good deal. Ive searched for about an hour and got a bunch of info on knowing if the car has the right gears in it. I got the RPO codes and general spec info on it.
Last edited by ewwewwnotme; 04-14-2008 at 10:38 PM.
yea, 9 bolt is rare. some will pay higher price for it. but then again they can handle more hp stock, but gears and the like are higher end. just keep looking for 10 bolt for 3rd gen. it can be built up! joe, has your bulb been out long? disconnect batt, clear codes. wait to see if more pop up.