South West RegionSouth West regional discussion board.
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Hey people. Ok so I'll try to make this short as posible. First of all I have a 1991 Chevy Camaro RS 3.1 V6 5 speed. First my camaro would stall while driving and or sometimes start bogging pretty bad. Later on it started doing this a lot at low RPM, now it wont stay on and it sounds very bad. I changed out the
ACS (Air Charge Sensor)
FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs
Fuel Pump (guy I bought the camaro off of said it was new)
I cleaned the Manifold very well. I also cleaned the Throttle Body very well. New air filter.
Blah Blah Blah....
So heres the questions I wanted to ask South West Region Board. Would someone be able to come help me in the Tucson, AZ area? Major cross street would be 22nd and Wilmont area. I am having problems setting the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) to the voltage required. And if someone can help me with my car or finding out whats wrong that would be great. I didn't want to replace all the sensor you know. But as for the Error code...ya I'm not picking up anything.
So I usualy hang out on the V6 Board and they help me out a lot and I even had some people try to walk me through some stuff over the phone but not the same as to someone right there and then.
Please Please Please help?
Update: Ok so I just need someone to come to my home and check my fuel pressure with a gauge. I live on 22nd and wilmot. If someone can come check it and give me a reading I'll give you my 40 series flowmaster exhaust that I had pulled out of the camaro. Let me know if someone is out there to give me a hand. 520-869-0001
Last edited by entrig00; 09-04-2009 at 01:15 PM.
Reason: Giving my 40 series flowmaster for help
I use to have a 91 RS with that same motor and i had a similar problem. My car would stall all the time and sometimes it would start and other times it wouldn't. I couldn't fingure it out for quit some time. Then on day one of the old guys I use to work with at FIRSTONE told me that it was or could be the Ignition module. I changed that out and sure enough that was it. Not saying thats your problem but if your fuel system is 100% fuctional and your 100% certain about it and the car stalls on you its certianly worth looking into.
TPS voltage at IDLE should Read 2.54VDC and ~11.50VDC WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. if i remember correctly it's been a long time since i have worked on a Fuel injection GM car. If those numbers are not right on the money they should be pretty close. Close enough to get your car running.
I use to have a 91 RS with that same motor and i had a similar problem. My car would stall all the time and sometimes it would start and other times it wouldn't. I couldn't fingure it out for quit some time. Then on day one of the old guys I use to work with at FIRSTONE told me that it was or could be the Ignition module. I changed that out and sure enough that was it. Not saying thats your problem but if your fuel system is 100% fuctional and your 100% certain about it and the car stalls on you its certianly worth looking into.
TPS voltage at IDLE should Read 2.54VDC and ~11.50VDC WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. if i remember correctly it's been a long time since i have worked on a Fuel injection GM car. If those numbers are not right on the money they should be pretty close. Close enough to get your car running.
Hey thanks for the reply. And yup your right a lot of these cars are going through the same thing. Thats three times that I heard that I should check the Ignition module.
I'll give that a try. Thank you very much and I'll let you know if that will work.
Do you know if I have to reset anything or something similar to that?
TPS idle voltage should be between .3-.7 volts. WOT voltage should be over 4.0 volts, if I remember correctly it's a 0-5 VDC into the ECM.
One thing I'd check is the EGR. If it's dirty and getting stuck open, it'll introduce extra air into the engine and it'll stall since the injectors won't be able to compensate. Usually if the fuel trim in the computer goes off the edge trying to compensate it'll throw a code. I've never had an EGR throw a code for being open, only for being stuck closed over 25 MPH (the check in the computer.)
The other thing off the top of my head is the idle air control. If it's dirty it might not close against the seat and let extra air into the engine.
Of course check the injectors, etc... it'd help if you had data off the computer.
TPS idle voltage should be between .3-.7 volts. WOT voltage should be over 4.0 volts, if I remember correctly it's a 0-5 VDC into the ECM.
One thing I'd check is the EGR. If it's dirty and getting stuck open, it'll introduce extra air into the engine and it'll stall since the injectors won't be able to compensate. Usually if the fuel trim in the computer goes off the edge trying to compensate it'll throw a code. I've never had an EGR throw a code for being open, only for being stuck closed over 25 MPH (the check in the computer.)
The other thing off the top of my head is the idle air control. If it's dirty it might not close against the seat and let extra air into the engine.
Of course check the injectors, etc... it'd help if you had data off the computer.
I'll also check that out. Im going to have to do some research on the EGR, not to knowledgable with it. I just figured out how to change out an ignition module, so after I try that I'll see where it goes after that. Just sucks because I just had a new exhaust system (Magnaflow Exhaust) put in and cant even enjoy it lol.
Hey thanks for your info and if that dont work I'll let you know....
TPS idle voltage should be between .3-.7 volts. WOT voltage should be over 4.0 volts, if I remember correctly it's a 0-5 VDC into the ECM.
One thing I'd check is the EGR. If it's dirty and getting stuck open, it'll introduce extra air into the engine and it'll stall since the injectors won't be able to compensate. Usually if the fuel trim in the computer goes off the edge trying to compensate it'll throw a code. I've never had an EGR throw a code for being open, only for being stuck closed over 25 MPH (the check in the computer.)
The other thing off the top of my head is the idle air control. If it's dirty it might not close against the seat and let extra air into the engine.
Of course check the injectors, etc... it'd help if you had data off the computer.
Try the coil pickup underneath the distributor cap, my car was intermittent with spark and intermittent with fuel but would crank over just fine. I checked the pickup coil going to the ignition module and that was the problem, the wire was old and had a bare spot so the signal to activate the module and pulse for the fuel was just going to ground. It's easy to check and it's free.
ya thats fine just check it yesterday. I'm thinking its a fuel pump...I dont want to go buy a fuel pressure gauge because I only have enough to get a fuel pump, on a very tight budget.
Again just need someone to stop buy and to check my fuel presure and I'll pay you.
ya thats fine just check it yesterday. I'm thinking its a fuel pump...I dont want to go buy a fuel pressure gauge because I only have enough to get a fuel pump, on a very tight budget.
Again just need someone to stop buy and to check my fuel presure and I'll pay you.
It's been a long time! 
