I need a timing chain and 2 piece cover.
Runners and base. Unless there's a deal somewhere on a super ram. $1278 for base ramand runners from jegs or summit is crazy $.
Brand names are lonly as good as their reputation. I'm not particluar to any brand name.
For a timing chain cover I'm looking for an aluminum 2 piece that I can swap cams with out removing the pan. I've seen some that have cam end play access with cover on. I'm not sure how you install cam buttons and torrington bearings but I think you need this for a proper install.
As for a timing chain I would like a dual roller adjustable one that works on a 1 piece block. I will be using a hyd roller cam, and want one that has or can use a torr bearing and cam button.
As for a base I hear thay are all the same. What's the differences between them all. That one on ebay there has a buy it now for $390.
I'm looking for a used Super Ram plenum and runner because of the cost. Can you get the Super Ran plenum and runners as well?
I am a warehouse distributor for lots of different performance parts and accessories. Do me a favor, make me a list of part numbers you need and I will give you the price and availability. http://www.performancecenter.com/sea...09.185.202.136 This is a link to the manufacturers index on my site. Click on any manufacturer and view the different products available. This is primarily a truck site however the products are the same. If you have any questions e-mail me.Red Rocket
Last edited by Grey Goose : 01-23-2002 at 04:49 PM.
The cable isn't as important as the windshield wiper motor.
On an '88 it doesn't clear very well.
If I were to put one on mine I would cut and weld the corner on the left rear for clearance.
Just my $.02
__________________ Chronologically challenged. But still kicking!
Being "over the hill" is much better than being under it!
'90 Trans Am
355 w/E-tec 200's W/SDPC intake, SLP runners, Crower cam, 1.6 rockers, 52mm TB,
1 3/4" coated headers, 9-bolt 3.70's
Dual cats, 3" cat back, Tremec 6 spd.(T-56)
McLeod clutch, B4C Alt., LS1 rear brakes
boxed LCA's & relocation brkts.
If it Slips, Drips or Funny Shifts...time for a T-56....
ET: 12.632 @ 108.69
Dyno: 324 RWHP, 405 RWTQ
This article tells me all I need is a ECM, later knock sensor and a map sensor.
Install looks simple.
Install later knock sensor and wire to existing knock sensor wire. Remove ESC and jump pins C to E and then to D with a resistor.
The resistor value mentioned in the article is between 3.8K and 4.2K. Sounds sketchy to me.
remove MAF get new SD bellow.
Find place to mount the MAP sensor and "t" into plenum vaccum. I don't see how the MAF wires work in the MAP sensor though.
Swap out ECM's because the connector and wires are the same. (sounds too good to be true).
Don, I had recommended that for the money he would spend on a new SuperRam setup (maybe even used) he could look into the TPIS's MiniRam. Any thoughts on that setup? I have heard some people perfer a one piece over the traditional base, runners, & pleunum. Kinda curious myself how well one would work....
The connectors are not- that- simple, 165 has 2 the 730 has 3 so they have to be repinned. Then just repin the MAF wires to the MAP position in the ECM.
That Accel intake manifold is the same price as an Edelbrock one new. I'm sure Mike can get you one for cheaper. And there is really no difference between them. Its the SuperRam that is gonna set you back a few hundred bills. You really need to stop and plan all this out Dwayne. What heads, what duration/lift on your cam, are you gonna keep those 1 5/8" headers, etc...? The intake pretty much has to be a SuperRam, because its the only good TPI intake available that is smog legal. When building a 383 there is a lot more that can go wrong, like clearances, and tolerences. You have to be careful with the compression ratio too, because the stroke adds more compression.
The 9th injector, just remove it. We did on Randy's setup. Just leave the connector hanging there, it wont hurt anything. You might want to tie it up somewhere so its not in the way. On the MAF wires, you just move them in the wire harness and plug them into the right spot on the computer and they become MAP wires. Really simple. Two of the connectors are the same between the MAF and MAP computer, but the pinouts are different. Plus the MAP has a third connector as well. Its not a direct plug and play.
How soon are you looking to do this? When's the next event we can get together? Hopefully you'll have it done before the GM West Coast Shootout in April?
Cool, Jegs/Summit want $518 for the Accel SR base.
The long block is being built at a machine shop in Fremont.
It's planned to be 10.1 to 1 compression with ARF 195 street heads.
I'm looking at cams today. Any suggestions?
As for the headers I want to go with 1 3/4 but can't afford that now.
Any body interested in some Jet Hot coated SLP 1 5/8 headers with "Y" pipe. All silver ceramic coated inside and out stainless steel. I'll throw in the Stage 8 bolts as well.
What plugs into the 3rd conn. on the MAF?
Hopefully I'll pick the motor up Feb 2. After that I have 1 weekend till I go to Sweden again. I should make the GM shoot out though.
Accel Base for 5 bucks more you get the machined (will work on early and late heads) sounds like the way to go. I'll call you at the number from the web page.
