you are forgeting ball-joints, and the idler arm. Ball Joints -- napa -- NCP2601130 x2 Ilder Arm -- napa -- NCP2683635 the coleman racing part numbers for the tie rod sleeves are. RP-129-4 x2 (sleve) 941-L x2 (left hand jam nut) 941-R x2 (right hand jam nut)

Ok, thanks a lot!!

From the final list, how do you think the car will handle/respond/ride now? Seems as though everything was covered. I'd just like a prediction on the final outcome...

with good tires, you better hang on

I agree with Dewey. Here is the list of parts that I would put on my car.

Spohn:
Billet Spherical Upper Strut Mounts
Spohn Sway Bars Set - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly
Adjustable Torque Arm - 700R4/T-5 Trans.
Panhard Bar - Adjustable Spherical Rod Ended

Shox.com
Koni Sport "Yellow" Shocks & Struts and Eibach Pro-kit package

Global West:
Del-A-Lum A-Arm Bushings: # 1022

Napa:
2 Tie-Rod Inner: #NCP2692612
2 Tie-Rod Outer: #NCP2692613
Centerlink: MRC-DS1049
Ball Joints -- napa -- NCP2601130 x2
Ilder Arm -- napa -- NCP2683635

Coleman Racing:
RP-129-4 x2 (sleve)
941-L x2 (left hand jam nut)
941-R x2 (right hand jam nut)

TDS:
2 1LE end link kit # 207080
Greasable Front Sway Bar Bushing kit # 200170
Greasable Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit # 202170

& WIDE TIRES

How's that sound?

i don't think you need the TDS bushing with the spohn sway bars. i beleive they come with bushings.

i might go with a more agressive spring than the pro-kit, you might consider contact Ground-Control or Strano Parts for springs. but if you are only street driven, they might get a little hardcore for you.

I thought the Koni Yellows were tighter than red, so a stiffer ride.

studdmstr: You won't need the greasable bushing kits from TDS b/c the Spohn Sway Bar kit comes w/ it. Same for the Endlinks.

sweetride, the yellows do have a higher dampening rate than the reds, but remeber, you need enough dampener to match the spring rates. in fact i prefer high rate shocks/struts, it just gives it a better feel to me. the main contributor to harsh rides is the springs. if you go with something beyond the basic pro-kit, or stock springs, i would suggest the yellows, espeicaly if you go with something like the GC kit, and get into the 700# + spring rate range.

So, shox.com IS a better deal. Their combo kit is the Koni Sports w/ the Eibach springs for $699. Spohn wants $610 for the shocks, and like $200 somethin' for the Pro-Kit. At first I wanted to stay away from the Eibach Pro-kit b/c of loss of dampening from the stiffer spring. How "harsh" would THAT combo kit be? There ARE bumps around here, and this definately won't be a track car...so, I want to compensate for that.

The Koni Yellows are adjustable, so that you can make them softer or firmer. If you are going to go with an aftermarket spring, then you will want to go with a little better shock.
Here's what the Koni web site says"Koni yellows focuses on exceptional road-holding and handling properties, combined with an acceptable level of comfort.
Koni reds are for improved comfort and road holding combined with a higher level of safety"

If you still insist on getting the "Reds" then get them from shox.com and save yourself some money.

The Spohn Sway Bar Kit looks like it only comes with non greasable sway bar bushings. Having greasable is very nice.

The TDS endlinks are nylon not poly. I'm sure they perform the same as poly but what makes them just a bit cooler is that they were standard equipment on 1LE camaros. I prefer to run the least amount of Poly on my car as I can.

Studd: That kit @ shox.com, that's for the yellow's, right? Where is the adjustment knob on those? Koni's site shows it on top, but I was just wondering. Also, the reds have lifetime warranty...how about the yellows?

Also, it wouldn't make sense to get the Sway bar kit from Spohn, and then swap out the Bushings. I'd be better off getting the seperate bars, then the bushings from TDS, correct?

Yes the yellows have a lifetime warranty. The Pro-kit will give you a firmer ride, but it won't be jarring because it is a progressive spring, but it won't lower it too much. With progressive springs each coil is spaced differently and they have a variable spring rate. When free, it is easy to compress the spring for the first few centimeters. As you apply more forces, coils on a progressive spring come closer. After a certain point, coils at the top 1/4 of the spring begin to touch each other and finally become inactive or dead, and that makes the spring stiffer. Apply more forces to a progressive spring then it becomes stiffer because as the number of active coils in a spring decreases, the spring rate increases. So, a progressive spring may both be sensitive to very small bumps on the road, while giving the stiffness you need during hard braking and turning.

That's what I was thinking too.

Only thing, Spohn bars are Chrome Moly, TDS seems to be regular stock ones (I think)...AND, it's the same price getting seperate bars from Spohn, or getting the kit. hmm, any other alternatives? Or does the chrome moly even matter?

Studd and Dewey, thank you SO much for all the info. It really simplified things and now I think I'm on the right track.

the spohn bars will be stiffer than the TDS ones, althought ws6/1le bars are a great match in our cars. you can't really go wrong with either of them.

TDS, 34mm Front, 24mm Rear Sway Bars...End links, Bushings...comes to about $238. Spohn's kit is $285 w/ Chrome Moly bars and potentially bigger/stronger. Downfall is the Poly bushings...

So, would it be wise to just piece 'em together w/ TDS, or go w/ Spohn, and get the TDS bushings?? Only thing that sucks is your paying like $100 more for bushings, and not using the Poly ones you already payed for w/ the Spohn kit.

I think TDS would be the way to go. Any difference from the 34mm they sell, vs. the 36mm? I don't see a 36mm from them.

i thought they made 36 ??

poly is not a bad choice for swaybars, i run poly sway-bar end-links and bushing, poly is just bad for our LCA's.

Oh, I see...Alright kewl. Sounds like basically everything has been covered. Thanks everyone here who helped. I really appreciate it!!

I thought of another thing...If I get that Torque Arm from Spohn...the one w/ the 700R4 crossmember included...if I decide to swap in a LS1 w/ 4L60E trans, will it be the same mounting locations, so that torque arm will still work?