Lately my rear brakes (discs) area will make a metallic type of whine...has gotten louder lately. Last time this occurred I replaced brake pads and the sound all but goes away. I took my rear pads off yesterday...and lots of meat left. Looks like the disc area needs to be smoothed out. The brake pad has a "lip" left where part of the pad doesn't meet the disc. Just would like some opinions on what I should do...or can do. I drag race fairly frequently...and will be doing more so once I get my car back together (doing several things). Some less audible brakes will help my daily driving, and a better brake hold will help my launches.

Personally I would take it to a shop for a brake inspection. Alot of places around here will do a brake inspection for free. Maybe the rotors need to be turned or maybe you need to replace them all together depending on how thin they are.

I just had brakes done on my truck when I bought it and less than 1500 kms later they brakes were squeaking. Thats just because they used cheap junk brake parts though.

Either way Id atleast have it looked at or get in there and measure the thickness of the rotors and see if they are still ok by yourself.

When you hold your brakes and do burnouts, you are heating your pads, which more than likely have metallic particles in them. This puts a glaze on the pads similarly to putting clay in the oven and heating it to form nice smooth hard ceramic. Then the heated pads with the metallic glaze makes the whine turning up side the rotors. "Get a line lock for burnouts or change pads often".

Here's what I would suggest:

1) Turn the rotors if they are within spec or get new ones if they are too thin. Beware of cheap " offshore " brands. Buy quality parts.

2) Get some Bendix Titanium pads for the rear ( and front for that matter ).

3) Install an adjustable Proportioning valve for the rear brakes, such as a WilWood ( important step ). Crank in some more rear brake bias.

4) Then install a line lock to the rear brakes. ( To load convertor at launch. Much easier and consistant than doing the ol' " Two step " on the brake and gas. )

5) Optional: Install a separate line lock to front brakes. Use this for burnouts only. Then you won't have the problem of heating the rear rotors on burnouts

Should do the trick for you.

Edit: Better idea than the double line locks, but possibly more expensive. I see you're running an Auto. Put a line lock on the fronts for burnouts and a Trans Brake in the tranny for launches.