Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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OK, I did a search but found nothing. How do you remove the brake booster??? Where are bolts located and how hard is this job??? Brake Booster went out last night and I need to get a new one. When I got in my car last night, I got up to a light and it stopped normal, but I heard a hissing noise every time I pushed the pedal. Suddenly brakes got harder to stop and hissing got louder, only when brake pedal was depressed.
__________________ 1986 IROC-Z 305 TPI 700R4 T-Tops JVC Sound System
Take off the vacuum hose from the booster to the check valve. Take the master cylinder retaining nuts off and pull the m/c forward so it clears the mounting studs and move it to the side with the brake lines still attached. Support cylinder to avoid stress on hydraulic lines. Remove the nuts from the dash side of the firewall and disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal. Remove booster.
4 nuts, sort of behind the brake booster; and of course, 2 nuts that hold the MC to it.... use a 15mm deep well socket and a wobble joint, and you'll have them off in about as much time as it took me to type that.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Thanks everyone for your response. Job Complete, I now have power brakes again. And yes, the 2 nuts toward the pass side, specially the top one were a PITA. Other then that took about an Hour from start to finish. Thats including putting kick panel back in place.
What causes a brake booster to go bad??? I thought it was going to be a leaky master cyl, but there was no leakage where the MC meets the BB. Well no leaks at all I should say.
RB you seem to make this an easy job but did you have 3 pedals when youve messed with them??
ive been stuck on the two nuts towards the drivers side for days and cant get to them...a standard socket obviously isnt deep enough but a deepwell hits a bracket that runs from my pedal assembly to the firewall (clutch MC bolts to it on the firewall)
it looks like the only way to get to them (with a manual tranny) is to complewtly remove the pedal assembly....anyone have any input?
I did it on my T5 car and I did not have the wobble socket either. PITA but you do not need to remove the pedals. 13 mm socket to remove the 2 nuts that are holding the clutch mc (support brackets are attached to them under the dash) then remove the 4 15mm nuts for the brake booster. 2 of them are easy 1 required a box wrench and patients the last one I think I remove one of the switches to gain access. That nut did not go back on cause I have no patience and my car is now 2oz lighter.
This is an old post I know, but I used it as a reference and the next guy might too. on a manual t5 the left side nuts are very easy to reach if you move the rod brace that is in front of the nuts and also drop the steering wheel (2 13mm(deep socket) nuts) use 2 12" extensions on your 15mm deep socket and you can even use a impact. just so the next guy's life is easier.
And yes, the 2 nuts toward the pass side, specially the top one were a PITA. Other then that took about an Hour from start to finish. Thats including putting kick panel back in place. 
