Not sure if this has been posted before since the search function it fubar'd. But perhaps this will be of help to some. With my SLP 1 3/4" headers I had alot of problems with the steering shaft too close to the headers. I actually burned up the boot on the column end last year, and in order to get the shaft out, I'd have to remove the column. Not too mention the rag joint kinda sucks. Flaming River doesn't make a direct replacement shaft for thirdgens, but here's the parts you need. Flaming River U-Joint 1746DD - This is a 1"DD on one end and a 3/4" 30 spline on the 2nd end. This is used on the steering box. If your steering box spline has a little nub on the end of it, you'll need to cut that off first. Otherwise the U-Joint won't be able to go on all the way. Mine also was a very tight fit and needed a little persuasion to go on. Flaming River U-Joint 1717DD - This is a 1"DD on one end and a 3/4" DD on the 2nd end. This is the end for the steering column side. Since the stock shaft slides into the column, and this new joint slides over the column, you may need to lightly grind the steering column end a bit in order for it to fit. Flaming River Collapsible shaft 1856-S - This shaft can also be gotten plated by adding PL in place of the S, it'll add about $100 to the price however. It's a 31.5" extended, and 28.5" collapsed. Which is way more then you need. You really only need about 13.5" of total length. So how much you keep of either end is really up to you. I also removed the rubber boot, as it was too close to a header for my liking. The thin end is 3/4"DD and solid this will got into the column side U-joint. The thicker end is a hollow 1"DD and then slides into the steering box U-joint. Thru Summit the 3 pieces cost me roughly $240. Really a pretty easy straightforward job. Helps to have a grinder and a dremel with a cut off wheel.

I used the steering u-joints from an Astro van to fabricate a new lower steering shaft. The lower rag joint and upper coupler were just too big for my application and I needed to relocate the steering shaft on the firewall anyway because the headers were in the way.

When i had the SLP 1-3/4 headers on mine, i ran into that problem. I ended up loosening the three bolts the hold the steering column to the firewall and pushed it over, retightened the bolts. It clearanced it just enough to get by with it. Thanks for the part #'s though. i have been wanting to do this with my car to make it look a little cleaner........jt

How's the road vibration now w/ the solid joints? I'm looking at doing a similar upgrade, although, I'm looking into their Rubber Isolation U-Joint to go on the gear box side. How much clearance do you have now to the SLP's? Any pics at the tightest spot?

I was also lookin' into the EZ Fit shaft that they have...it'd make it easy to adjust the steering wheel if u were off a bit...don't know about the clearance w/ it however...

Heres my cheap mans way to U-joint.Most parts are from an astro van.

Sweet, clean set-up! I was looking at Borgeson joints and was wondering what the OEM "DD" shaft size was. From your post and description it sounds like I have a 3/4" shaft!

Yeah, I want more info on it...still hasn't replied to my question...he disappeared, lol

Karps, Great info and thank you for posting the info and part #'s. Very good tech info that I will definately be copying in the near future.

Do all 3rd gen steering boxes have a 30-spline 3/4" input shaft?

Yeah i'd like more info too. Anyone else have pics or info?

I actually installed the Borgeson pieces last year with a vibration dampener at the steering box end. It works wonderfully and was less than the Flaming River components, I think it was $170 all together. Looks just like the above picture, but with OEM stuff all around it.

got any pics?

This was the flaming river setup I made a while back using the info Karp's TA posted.

part #'s from Summit Racing (these are for the polished versions):

FLA-FR1746DDPL
FLA-FR1717DDPL
FLA-FR1856-SPL

that doesnt look collapsible, hope you dont get into a head on accident

Looks collapsible from this monitor. Note the two different size DD shafts. Along with the rubber bellows.

Then from the first post of this thread:

"Flaming River Collapsible shaft 1856-S"

RBob.

im retarded, i saw the rubber thingy, didnt notice the different size shafts, ignore my earlier post.

For those of you that have used this setup. What are the results? Do you like the feel over stock?

btt. I'm looking for a replacement too

Guys,

Are there any issues aligning the steering wheel with this setup? Is it keyed like the stock column so it can only go on 1 way? Is steering wheel position aligned by rotating the 30 spline u-joint on the steering box?

Thanks

My 92 z28 with a 5.7 and SLP 1 3/4 fit just fine.. never touched anything
I would check out all your parts.

I did this exact purchase on my Camaro and it worked great. Part #'s are very reliable. It fits just like the factory ends like yoou describe with the D fitting and the 30 spline. I have the same setup also on my Vetruck.

By the way....I was Railroad on this post- I lasted only 31 posts with that call name.

Thanks for the info vetruck. I have already ordered this setup. I'll be asking more of your advice in the future. I have a huge pile of steering and suspension parts sitting in my basement waiting for a free weekend. I'm sure I'll need some help setting it up.

Hey guys I'm having some trouble getting this setup to work correctly. It seems like the two ends are 90 degrees out of alignment. IE the steering wheel would be turned 90 degrees. From what I can tell in my shop manual the flat spot on the steering box input shaft should point up when the steering box is centered. It would also seem to me that the single set screw on the steering box side of the lower u-joint should belong on the flat on the input shaft. The way I see it now, to have the steering wheel aligned the set screw would have to go on the splines 90 degrees from the flat.

What did you guys do?

I feel like I am doing something dumb.

Thanks,

John

You are correct, the flat on the steering box should be up, and parallel with the ground.

Check the column shaft, IIRC, there is a notch on the end that is also "up."

If that is up and the steering wheel is not in the correct position, then it needs to be re-centered. There are hash marks on the column shaft and steering wheel that need to line up.

If everything is lined up, steering wheel, column shaft, and steering box. But the new intermediate shaft is still off 90*, then there must be an incorrect part in there someplace.

Note that I haven't used the flaming river set up, but have used other u-jointed shaft assemblies. But it does make a difference, and they do all need to properly aligned.

RBob.

Hmmm. I just talked to Flaming River tech support. They claimed it is fine to put the set screw on the splines of the input shaft. He even said not to drill the dimple on the splines. Just put the set screw in there as is right on the splines. It still seems fishy to me. What do you guys think?

Rbob,

The stock shaft I took out of there does have a matching flat. And with the stock shaft installed the steering wheel has always been straight. Now the flaming river u-joint has the same 30 splines as the input shaft of the steering box but it has no flat. In other words I can install that u-joint 30 different ways, not 1 way like the stock shaft. Rotating the u-joint on the input shaft merely changes where the set screw is aligned on the input shaft. It sure seems as though the set screw should rest on that flat and not the splines. But if you do that, the steering wheel is 90 degrees off.

So I'd be interested to hear if this happened to others using the flaming river setup.

OK, didn't realize that setup doesn't have a flat to key to the steering box. Hmm, not sure about the set screw being into the splines. Also note on the stock set up that the clamping bolt passes through a groove in the shaft. That way the clamped piece can not pull off unless the bolt is fully removed. Safety stuff.

Not sure what to tell ya'. Although a lot of red locktite would be a good idea.

RBob.

That RBob.

I am actually thinking at this point it may be a good idea to take the u-joint down to a machine shop and have them drill and tap another set screw hole so the set screw rests on the flat. That way I don't have to ruin the splines.

But first I hope someone who has used this setup can tell if they had the same problem.

Another idea, is there enough adjustment in the steering wheel to rotate it 90 degrees.

Please don't do that. The turn signal canceling cams will be way off.

Your idea of another set screw location is best. You may even be able to place a second one so that it goes into the original bolt groove. Make them 90* from each other. So that they aren't in line to create a stress location.

RBob.

Ah, I figured there was a good reason that wouldn't work. The steering wheel is about the only thing that hasen't been removed on this car in the last 5 years.

Still curious to hear what others have done.

Nevermind folks I figured it out, nothing to see here. The set screw goes inbetween the two rows of splines in the groove. I feel much better about this than putting the set screw on the splines. Funny Flaming River tech support didn't mention that.

Ok. Next question. The other side of the steering shaft attaches to the steering column. With the stock setup there is a bolt that runs through the steering column and through the steering shaft. The Flaming River setup replaces the bolt with two more set screws. The first set screw rests on the curved side of the column and is fine but the second screw would go right where the hole is for the bolt, so it can't put any pressure on the column. Sure I could stick the set screw in there and it should prevent the shaft from sliding off the column but I'd prefer it to be putting pressure on something.

What have others done? Any ideas?

Thanks.

Ok here are the pictures. You can see the hole in the steering column for stock bolt. One of the two set screws sits in this hole? What should I do?

I could drill all the way through the u-joint and just run a bolt and nut like stock, but it seems a bit mickey mouse. Any ideas?

Ok, I put out the latest fire. I cut down a piece of 1/2" square steel rod to about 1" long. Then I slid it into the steering column so it would bridge the hole and provide a spot for the set screw to contact. Steering shaft is fully installed now.

My solution was to have a friend turn down the steering shaft in the affected area.
It works, but I can't keep paint on that part of the shaft. It just rubs off ;-)

Not following you Flip. What affected area?

Where the steering shaft hits the header, he made the steering shaft thinner (by turning it down on a lathe). Now there is JUST enough room for both. The rest of the steering shaft is stock.

Interesting. What headers do you have? My 1 3/4" SLPs aren't very close to the steering shaft. It seems some people have more trouble than others.

1 3/4" SLPs.
My rag joint is wrapped in heat shield fiberglass.

Which flaming river shaft is a direct bolt in for a 670 lee performance box? The shafts they make look great and i'm sure have a very direct feel with no slop cuz of the solid joints and no rag joint.. thnx

Ok. Going to order these parts (as stated above):

FLA-FR1746DDPL
FLA-FR1717DDPL
FLA-FR1856-SPL

Question: Is there any cutting involved or will this just bolt in directly?

You have to cut the steering shaft down. Here is a tip, cut it in such a way that most of the length is the smaller shaft. That way it won't interfere with headers. I made that very mistake. Now mine rubs very lightly on the header.

Here is a thought. Do you have SLP headers? If you are interested I can sell you my shaft that is already cut to length. Mine is the polished version. Let me know if you are interested.

Cool. My headers look to be far away from the steering shaft.. I have Edelbrock headers.. Why would you sell this part though? Aren't you using this setup on your own car?

Like I said my shaft very lightly grazes the header when the motor mounts flex under certain load. I'd like to stop the grazing. I'd sell you mine and buy a new one for myself. I'd then make mine like I suggested above where the thin part of the shaft was near the header instead of the thick part. That would fix my rubbing problem. Let me know what you think.

I see FLA-FR1856-SPL sells for $200 + shipping from Summit. I could probably do $100 shipped. It has about 400 miles on it and has a small wear ring on it where the shaft and header rubbed. Other than that its in perfect condition and would be bolt in for your setup.

Gotcha. Let's continue this is private messages i don't want to hijack the thread haha. But yes i might take up the offer, do you have any pics? I'll PM you my email. Thnx.

Did the rubbing affect it's structural rigidity? Thnx

About to purchase this setup for my car... Any feedback from guys who have installed this setup such as steering feel over bumps/vibration? etc..

Thanks!

I use a jeep shaft works great

I use a jeep shaft on my grand national that is,I just picked up a 91 camaro now I see when the wheel is straight the flat part of the shaft is facing up this is 90* off from a g-body,s-10,impala

How does the steering feel compared to before? Is there still a dead spot in the steering?