Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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Hello to everyone!
I did my steering box rebuild and took some pictures while doing it, so I thought I should share it with everyone.
The complete rebuild and rag joint replacement will take about 4-6 hours if you have all the tools.
Here's what you need:
Steering box rebuild kit Part# 8522. I bought mine thru AutoZone for $31 bucks
Pit arm removal tool. This tool can be purchased at AutoZone, Pepboys or any other shop. I bought mine at Autozone Part# T72069
1 5/16" deep socket.
Power steering box fluid.
New rag joint.
Four (4ea.) 5/16"-24 lock nuts and 5/16"-24 x 1 1/2" bolts(for the new rag joint installation).
4 1/2" grinder with cutting wheel(to cut away the stock rag joint rivets).
Grease lube
Thread Locker
Some WD-40
Clean rags for cleaning
Snap Ring removal tool
Hammer and chisel
Rubber mallet
Dentist like pick tool
Procedure:
1) Remove the pit arm, but first make a mark on the pit arm and shaft for re-installing purposes, do not use some magic marker, use a small file and make a good mark.
2) Next place some news paper on the floor right below the steering box and remove the steering hoses, remember to mark each one. Some fluid is going to be spilled so that's the purpose of the news paper.
3) Slide the plastic cover that covers the steering shaft and remove the bolt that holds the rag joint into the steering box.
4) Use some WD-40 and spray it ove the steering shaft slide shaft, near the joint below the master cylinder.
5) Remove the bolt that hold together the steering shaft slide shaft with the shaft coming from the firewall.
6) With a large screw driver or pry bar separate the rag joint from the steering box.
7)Remove the steering box and the steering shaft.
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Last edited by BBSDesigns; 06-13-2008 at 02:19 PM.
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Now that you have those two parts, lets concentrate on the rag joint replacement.
1) First: FORGET ABOUT RAG JOINT ELIMINATORS I did change that on my GTA and the binding it created contributed to a leak on the steering box, main reason for the steering box rebuild. Rag joint eliminators will create dead spots since it takes away the articulate joint that the rag joint provides.
2) Mark the position of the joints with a file also and then remove the rivets with the cutting wheel. Be carefull not to damage the parts to be reused or yourself! You will need the hammer and a rounded punch tool to remove the rivets from the joints.
3) Clean all parts and lubricate the slide shaft with some WD-40 and place aside until re-install.
Steering Box Rebuild
1) With the steering box in hand rotate the shaft with your hand from side to side while pointing the two couplers where the hoses attach upside down to a cath container. This will cause all the fluid to be sprayed into the catch container. Try to do it as much as possible to remove all the unwanted fluid trapped inside the box.
2) Once you have removed all the fluid or mostly, remove the lock nut on top of the box.
3) Remove the four bolts that hold the box's top cover.
4) Using the hex wrench that fits propperly on the adjusting bolt remove the cover while you screw-down the adj. bolt. You will notice that the cover will go up.
Ok here is the step that you guys or gals I want you to take your time.
First of all. my camera is a piece of sh_t, and I didnt notice that the pics I took where off focus until I reviewed later, so try no to go blind while you look at them.
Remember that I told you to please keep an eye on how parts interlock one with each other? Ok The pump has one worm shaft which is the one that turns the rack piston. The Stub shaft and the O-ring valve body with body.
The O-ring body interlocks with the stub shaft via a small dowel. Also please keep in mind the thrust bearing and washers.
14) When replacing the seals on the pump do it in order form the fartest first then to the closer to the edge of the cylinder.
15) Once you replaced all the seals and partially assembled the pump and set it aside its time work on the seal and bearing replacement of the main shaft. Remove the snap ring and remove the seals along with the roller bearing and replace.
16)Re-install the complete pump assembly carefully. Be sure that all o-rings are positioned correctly in place and that everything is as when you remove it. Just hand tight the threaded body for now. Be sure to leave it very loose
17) Install the rack piston. Be sure that thera are no ball bearings inside!!!
18) Install the ball bearings, this is the trick part
Once the rack piston is inside the box place the box flat on the table. With the rack on it's centered position you will start putting each ball thru hole on the rack piston to your left side. Be sure that the balls run towards the right side. Use the pick to push the down, but always make sure that they run to the right side. The idea is that when you install the tube carrier in shape of an "U" all the balls run thur the worm shaft and thru the "U" carrier. If the balls are outside the that zone I honestly don want to even know what could happen. Notice that the carrier tube has to "stops" on each end to prevent the balls of getting out of the ball bearing "zone".
19) Once you have pushed the ball bearing to zone area ONLY, fill the "U" carrier tube with the remaining balls which should be 7-8 balls and put some grease on each end so that the balls will not fall from the tube. Join the tube with some masking tape.
20) With all the balls in the "zone" place the tube as gentle and as fast as you can on its position and put the metal strap on with the screws. Use some thread locker there.
21) Hand tight the threaded body on the pump side. This will avoid the rack, due to its weight to unscrew from the box and spill all the balls out.
22) Reinstall the main shaft put the top cover.
23) Reinstall the front cover, make sure that you change the large o-ring and put the new spring wire.
24) I adjusted the complete box by feel only, did not trust my torque wrench on this one.
What I did is first tightened the threaded body until I got to the mark I left. Then adjusted until I felt no lash on the thrust bearing from the pump. Then tightened the large lock nut.
25) For the main shaft I did it the same way but this time I turned the steering shaft simultaneously until no lash was felt. Then torqued the lock nut.
26) Re-install on vehicle and enjoy your new 2008 steering box!
Now I'm just skipping that drama and buying the $280 steering box new But are you sure it was a 1 1/4" socket to remove the big nut on the underside, and therefore the pitman arm?
I have a 1 1/4" and it didn't quite fit, tried a 1 3/8" and was too big. I was going to go buy a 1 5/16" (or is this metric?) but should I just try hammering on my 1 1/4" Just thought i'd check, since you've done it most recently.
Now I'm just skipping that drama and buying the $280 steering box new But are you sure it was a 1 1/4" socket to remove the big nut on the underside, and therefore the pitman arm?
I have a 1 1/4" and it didn't quite fit, tried a 1 3/8" and was too big. I was going to go buy a 1 5/16" (or is this metric?) but should I just try hammering on my 1 1/4" Just thought i'd check, since you've done it most recently.
You are completle right, is a 1 5/16" socket. I will correct the information. No is not metric. The nearest metric size that will fit is 35mm and it has some play, perfect for striping nuts!
great write up. I am thinking about doing this as well since I don't really want to spend almost $300 for a new box.
I just put a new pair of tires up front today and want to get an alignment, so I guess I should go ahead and attempt the rebuild.
when are you going to rebuild your power steering pump? hint, hint
Just an FYI there is a good way to elminate the rag joint cheaply and correctly. Replace it with a universal joint. I have a steering shaft made from a camaro shaft and an astro van shaft. I personally didn't make it. There was someone on the board that figured it out and made me one. But it is a vary economical way to elminate the rag joint.
Just curious, where did you get your eliminator from and was it just a solid aluminum disk? I had problems with the Unbalanced Engineering rag joint elim. Steering effort went up 10x and I pulled it off before I got any leaks.
Just curious, where did you get your eliminator from and was it just a solid aluminum disk? I had problems with the Unbalanced Engineering rag joint elim. Steering effort went up 10x and I pulled it off before I got any leaks.
I got mine thru Unbalanced Engineering also, good piece, packing, shipping everything. Dont get me wrong the rag eliminator is a good piece to add IF you can align the steering shaft column. Since the rag joing eliminator, as the word implies, eliminates the swivel union hence the steering column has to be align correctly. That means that you have to get under the dash and begin a process of maybe shimming the column until you get it right.
My steering also felt more hard to steer, plus the "flat spots" that where felt. The steering wont return to its neutral position also.
I did the rebuild new rag joint and now the steering is perfect, no need for a solid joint. The whole thing cost me about $45.00 including the fluid and I got to keep my high ratio gear box!
maybe i got lucky but i like my rag joint eliminator. steering effort is the same as with the factory rag joint, no play, and better steering response.
BTW, that is a good write-up on the box rebuild. did mine recently but didn't have a camera and wished i had something like this article. i agree with Kris.....it should be a sticky.
maybe i got lucky but i like my rag joint eliminator. steering effort is the same as with the factory rag joint, no play, and better steering response.
BTW, that is a good write-up on the box rebuild. did mine recently but didn't have a camera and wished i had something like this article. i agree with Kris.....it should be a sticky.
I disagree with the sticky, this should be condensed and submitted as a tech article. Someone contact the admin...maybe I will.
Do the ball bearings just fall out or can you prevent that or not take them out at all? I just started this rebuild and I'm kinda concerned about adjusting it right when I put it back together. Thanks
Has this eliminated the slop in the steering? I have fairly new components in the whole steering assembly, and it's still sloppy. Did this fix yours?
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
Has this eliminated the slop in the steering? I have fairly new components in the whole steering assembly, and it's still sloppy. Did this fix yours?
My GTA has a complete rebuild front end and this was the only part that was not worked on. When I did this it completely remove the sloppiness. I did need to re-adjust the box after a while of use, meaning that the "on the bench" adjustment was not enough.
I'm in the same boat. My car has new (well, less than 4 years old) struts, strut mounts, ball joints, inner/out tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, etc and I've checked the rag joint for wear. Still, the slop persists. I'm going to pull the WS6 box off my parts car and rebuild it, then install it on the car RS.
I just started and ordered the part from autozone...$40.00 shipped. It's pretty straight forward so far, just watch how everything fits together as you pull it apart (lots of wd-40 to loosen 21 year old bolts). I recommend heating up the pitman arm nut with a torch. Looks like the hardest part will be adjusting it when you throw it back together. good luck
I'm in the same boat. My car has new (well, less than 4 years old) struts, strut mounts, ball joints, inner/out tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, etc and I've checked the rag joint for wear. Still, the slop persists. I'm going to pull the WS6 box off my parts car and rebuild it, then install it on the car RS.
If your RS came with the optional 16" wheels, it already has the Z28 quick ratio steering box (XH stamped).
If your parts car came with 16" wheels, the steering box will be the same, but if it came with 15" wheels, it has the WS stamped box. The differences are the XH box has 32* of travel and requires a little more effort than the WS box, which has 35* travel. But both the XH and WS box's are 12.7:1 ratio.
Here is a breakdown of all the steering box's available in Camaro's
• “WS” – 1982-1992 Camaro – 12.7:1 ratio (just like your Z/28, this may be the box that you Z originally had. Looks like this came with cars that originally came with 15 in wheels, it has 35* of travel)
• “XH” – 1985-1992 Camaro – 12.7:1 ratio (this box was also installed on Z/28’s and other high performance Camaros with 16in whells, it has slightly more steering effort required than the WS box.), has 32* of travel
• “WN” – 1982-1985 Camaro – 14.1 ratio
• “WP” – 1982-1985 Camaro – 13:1-15:1 variable ratio (used in Berlinetta’s, least steering effort required of all third gen. Camaro steering boxes)
• “JL” – 1986-1992 Camaro – 14.1 ratio (base Camaro steering box)
Both my parts car and my car have 16 inch wheels. The parts car is a 91 WS6 Formula and my car is a 91 RS Camaro w/ F41. Some genious painted the box (and everything else in the engine bay) on the Formy before I got it. From the information you provided, I'm assuming the steering box will be XH box in both cars?
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
I know for a fact, that in 91, RS Camaro's with the 16" wheels, (F41), got the XH box. I never bothered researching the pontiac side, but I would think it would be pretty much the same.
Wher's the stamp located? I have the box I'm rebuilding which I'm told came out of an 87 iroc and my car is a 91 RS although I don't know if it origionally came with 16" wheels. I see a "Z" on both boxes but none of the other numbers have a WS or XH in them.
Here are some useful diagrams I found. Unfortunately, they're hard to read when you zoom in. I got them from alldatadiy.com. One diagram states that you should remove the plug from the front of the rack piston and insert a ball retainer (part# j-21552) before removing the rack piston and then remove them together. One thing I found was that the balls inside the rack piston are supposed to be black and silver, one being smaller than the other and they are supposed to be installed alternately so as to keep the proper bearing preload.
The spec sheet on Alldatadiy.com says to tighten the main shaft until it bottoms out and then mark the location against the housing. Now back it off a 1/2" and make another mark. Tighten the lock nut without allowing the shaft to move. After you've tightened the top cover, back out the adjuster bolt til it stops and tighten one full turn. Take a torque reading on the main shaft. Now, tighten the adjuster nut until the torque reading on the main shaft is 6-11 ft/lbs more than the first. Last, tighten the lock nut on the adjuster and don't allow the adjuster to move. Done.
Last edited by jb3829; 02-20-2009 at 04:04 PM.
Reason: spelling
Also, don't forget to use some 400 grit or fine emery cloth to polish the pittman shaft where it rubs on the seals. It will probably be rusty and have some pitting due to the water present at the seals and washers due to the heat cycles of the pump fluid. It's important to polish this as well as you can because the pitting, if left alone, will cut up the new seals and set-up a new leak!
I FINALLY installed the rebuilt box with new moog steering links, fresh fluid and had it aligned. WOW what a difference! No more slop and nice road feel. My mechanic had to pull the pitman arm off and realign it but well worth $30 and about 6 hours to rebuild it.
Help! section at Advance is where I got mine, I think. Just don't know where I put it after that lol.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
15) Once you replaced all the seals and partially assembled the pump and set it aside its time work on the seal and bearing replacement of the main shaft. Remove the snap ring and remove the seals along with the roller bearing and replace.
16)Re-install the complete pump assembly carefully. Be sure that all o-rings are positioned correctly in place and that everything is as when you remove it. Just hand tight the threaded body for now. Be sure to leave it very loose
17) Install the rack piston. Be sure that thera are no ball bearings inside!!!
18) Install the ball bearings, this is the trick part
Once the rack piston is inside the box place the box flat on the table. With the rack on it's centered position you will start putting each ball thru hole on the rack piston to your left side. Be sure that the balls run towards the right side. Use the pick to push the down, but always make sure that they run to the right side. The idea is that when you install the tube carrier in shape of an "U" all the balls run thur the worm shaft and thru the "U" carrier. If the balls are outside the that zone I honestly don want to even know what could happen. Notice that the carrier tube has to "stops" on each end to prevent the balls of getting out of the ball bearing "zone".
Yesterday I rebuilt the leaking gear that I have been using in my car for the last ten years. I actually enjoyed learning by doing something different like this. Mine is a gear out of a '92 Z28 with casting number 26000525. The only thing that gave me pause to stop and think was installing the o-ring on the valve spool. It fit the groove loose as if it was one size too large. The valve assembled without feeling any extra effort so I am guessing I the o-ring has not been cut by the channels in the valve body. I was also able to score cheap on auction a J-21552 ball retainer so I did my rack piston ball reload as in the Helms. Also different from this procedure and the Helms I used a J-42882 wrench for removing and installing/torquing the adjuster plug. The J-42882 is a nice one-piece casting that has two cast-in pins and a 1/2 inch square drive hole for use with a wrench. Even though from what I have read that this wrench is a direct replacement for the J- part number spanner, I had to drill the two holes in the adjuster plug .015 over size for the wrench to be able to engage both holes at the same time. Anyway I will find out next weekend whether I have followed the instructions properly and whether or not the valve spool o-ring is doing its job when I put the gear in my car. One day per weekend voluntarily doing car work in the Gulf Coast summer heat and humidity is enough for me.
I'm having a problem with the snap ring above the pitman arm holding the pitman shaft seal in place.....I keep blowing out the seal,,,,,,any thoughts?
By "blowing out the seal" do you mean that the hydraulics are unseating the snap ring and blowing the two seals it is retaining out of the housing?
When I installed the new snap ring that came with my kit it seemed odd that it fit loose in the groove. Then later I noticed a second ring still in the bag. I removed the first ring and compared it to the second and found the second one was a larger size than the first. After installation the second one fit nice and snug as they are supposed to. There are evidently slight variations between all the years of gears that this kit services.
But are you sure it was a 1 1/4" socket to remove the big nut on the underside, and therefore the pitman arm?
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