Lowering 101 --Last updated: Dec. 29, 2008. Want to lower your car but don't know where to start? Read on for a guide on how to lower your 3rd gen. There are several options for lowering, and we'll try to go over as much of them as possible. As with all lowering options for our cars, the air dam will be the most effected, so keep an eye out for roadkill and other things that could rip up the air dam while driving. *** 1. Lowering Springs Lowering springs are by far the most popular method used to lower a car. Springs are easy to come by, and are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. The downside of lowering springs is that they can put the a-arms in a position similar to that of loaded/compressed suspension, which often yields negative camber (depending on how low you go), causing premature front tire wear and handling problems. When lowering, there are several other suspension components that you will need; adjustable panhard bar, LCA relocation brackets, and an adjustable torque arm. An adjustable panhard bar is a must and will allow you to keep the rear axle centered after lowering, as the stock panhard bar is not adjustable. Lower control arm (LCA) relocation brackets will give the LCAs the proper angle after lowering (which moves the axle up). An adjustable torque arm will allow you to adjust the pinon angle, which will change with lowering. There is a hidden cost with associated with lowering, but these parts will help ensure that your car still handles well. Lowering springs are installed just like new springs... Front Springs Jack up the car and support it on jack stands. After removing the front wheel, rotor, and caliper, use the jack to lift up on the inside (pivoting side) of the a-arm to unload them slightly. This will take pressure off of the two pivot bolts that allow the a-arm to pivot against the k-member. If possible, insert a spring compressor and tighten it down so that the spring stays in a compressed state. The only compressor I've found worth using is an internal coil spring compressor, like a KD Tools #3450. The other two I've used (external type and compressing fork) just don't fit. Remove the two nuts from the pivot bolts, pull the bolts out (you might have to wiggle the a-arm), and then use the jack to slowly unload and let the a-arm down. Remove the stock spring. At this point it is very helpful to have an extra jack that is supporting the hub (before you remove the pivot bolts), because it will help keep the whole setup from kicking out, and will help protect the strut from overextending, due to the weight of the spindle & a-arm after you remove the pivot bolts & the spring. Installation is in reverse order. You might want to compress the lowering spring with a spring compressor, but it depends on how stiff and long it is. Index the new spring with the a-arm by aligning the un-tapered spring end in the a-arm notch, and then place the jack under the pivoting side of the a-arm, slowly jack it up and place your pivot bolts. Re-tighten and you're good to go. Rear Springs Jack up the rear of the car and place jack stands under the LCA mounting points (subframe area). Unbolt the rear shocks and remove the old panhard bar. Lower the axle with a jack and remove the stock springs. Install the lowering springs (make sure they line up with the grooves of your isolators if you still have them) and then jack the rear end back up and bolt up your rear shocks, and install the adjustable panhard bar. Unbolt one LCA at a time and bolt in (or weld in, depending on your style) the LCA relocation brackets to the axle. Reattach the LCA and move to the other side. You can do both sides at the same time, but the axle moves around without LCAs and it makes it a little more difficult. To adjust the panhard bar, drop the car off the jack stands and measure the horizontal distance from the outside of the wheel (not the tire) to the inside fender lip. Adjust the panhard bar until the measurements of both sides are equal, and lock it. You're done! Known lowering springs for 3rd gens Eibach Sportline (#4-0138) - 1.6" front/1.3" rear. Eibach Pro-Kit (#3801-140) - 1.0" front/1.0" rear. B&G Sport Springs (#121005) - 1.4" front/1.0" rear. Dropzone Springs (#DZ-SP3100) - 1.75" front/1.75" rear. Hotchkis (#1903) - ?/?. Jamex (no longer manufactured). Cut Springs Cut springs are a mixed bag; some people like them and some don't. I did an LSx swap and wasn't sure what lowering springs to use to get a slightly lower ride height. So I decided to purchase new springs and cut them with a cutting wheel as an experiment. I bought stock replacements (Moog 5662 fronts, 5665 rears) and cut the non-tapered ends 14" and 7" (the length of a string wrapped around the outside of the coil, so that I could get equal reduction on both springs), respectively. The car rides great, and is about 0.75-1" lower up front, but I could have gone to 9-10" on the rear springs to drop it another 0.5-0.75". The springs are only temporary, as I'll be installing drop spindles next. Helpful Threads -Cutting Rear ProKit? -Cutting 1/2 coil = how much drop? (Cutting 1/2 coil = how much drop (average)) -Couple questions about WS-6 Springs (Couple questions about WS-6 springs) -Lowest Drop Springs (lowest drop springs) -Lowering springs or cut the springs? -Pro Kit Springs On... WTF! (Pro-kit springs on.....WTF!) -Spring Questions -Thinking about taking a coil off my springs!? -What are the LOWEST lowering springs you can buy? -What's the deal with Moog springs? (Whats the deal with Moog springs????) Members with lowering springs (click for pictures): Camaros -Dropzone, Cmeb4ubuy ('91 Camaro) -Dropzone, Dale ('91 Camaro vert). Also had Jamex spring pictures. -Dropzone, FLYNLOW92rs ('92 Camaro) -Eibach Sportlines, CrazyHawaiian (Finally ... Pics of CrazyHawaiians 91 z28 on 18's...) ('91 Camaro) -Eibach Sportlines, Sickness91Z28 ('91 Camaro) -Eibach Sportlines, Brisk ('88 Camaro) -Eibach Sportlines, Sinister Z ('85 Camaro) -Eibach ProKit, Camaroguy18 ('86 Camaro) -Hotchkis, SMOKIN Z (finally lowerd the vert) ('91 Camaro vert) -Hotchkis, BlueZee28, ('91 Camaro vert) -Intrax, Jekyll & Hyde ('88 Camaro) -Intrax, shawn18jgr ('91 Camaro) -Jamex, ChevyKen ('86 Camaro vert) Firebirds -Canuk Motorsports, razor ('92 GTA) -Eibach Sportlines, //<86TA>\\ ('86 Trans Am) -Eibach Sportlines, nolanr0413 ('85 Trans Am) *** 2. Drop Spindles If one is looking for the best way to lower a car up front, drop spindles have no equal. Drop spindles move the spindle shaft up, effectively moving the wheel mounting point up (and the car down), but allowing the strut and a-arm mounting points to stay the same. This way you can keep the correct suspension geometry of the car, and eliminate the negative camber (and tire wear) that comes with lowering springs. You will need to run stock springs up front, but will still use lowering springs (as well as an adjustable panhard bar and LCA relocation brackets) for the rear axle. Drop spindles for the '82-92 F-body were first made by Belltech (part #2200, also available was #5200 - drop rear springs to match the spindles), but sales were under target and the company decided to stop making them, ending with the last remaining prototype production pair being destroyed in 2004. Even though Belltech was contacted several times by those on this board about reproducing the spindles, sadly, nothing even came of it. Recently, two other companies have started to make drop spindles for the 3rd gen. AJE Racing makes spindles which provide a 1.8" drop. The second company is Racecraft, which have a 2" drop. -AJE Racing Drop Spindles -Racecraft Drop Spindles Helpful Threads -Dropped Spindles -NEW Group Purchase of Dropped Spindles -WANTED - 10 or more to group purchase Dropped Spindles (WANTED - 10 or more to group purchase Dropped Spindles.) Members with drop spindles (click for pictures): -Belltech, miRob ('88 GTA) -AJE Racing, UDAMON (Drop Spindles Installed! (AJE)) ('91 Camaro) *** 3. Weight Jacks In a nutshell, weight jacks allow you to run the spring rate & length that you want, and be able to adjust the ride height independently without swapping springs. Weight jacks are very popular with those who road race and autocross, but there are those who have adapted them for lowering for street use. There is a lot of information on weight jacks than can be covered in this post. See Ground Control's 3rd gen parts catalog for more information on what's available. Helpful threads -Ground control weight jacks -Aftermarket spring rates for road race and autoX (After market Spring rates??? for road race and autoX) -Weight jacks users and experts (Weight Jack users and experts - couple questions) *** 4. Air Suspension Air suspension is probably one best ways to have adjustable lowering. Air bags replace your springs (you will still need shocks & struts) but allow you to adjust the ride height any way you want. Drop the car to a certain level for shows or driving, and raise your car to stock height if needed (speed bump clearance is a good example). Air ride has been installed by a few here on the board, and is probably one of the most complicated and expensive lowering options. You will need air bags, air line, control valves, PSI/valve controller, air compressor, and storage tank, as well as space the mount the air compressor, tank & valves. Air Ride Technologies (ART) makes a kit for 3rd gens (#L1-4350) that includes the front & rear bags, mounting plates, plus everything else to get the system installed and working. Known air suspension vendors mentioned in the forums: -Air Ride Technologies - ART makes a dedicated kit with custom bags for 3rd gens. -Airbagit.com -Suicidedoors.com Helpful Threads -Finally Started the Air Ride Install - Sickness91Z28's install -Air ride and road racing (Air ride and road raing) -New airride cool ride setup (new airride cool ride setup) -Air ride (air ride) -CoolRide kit is Available Members with air ride (click for pictures): -iroc2nv -Kandied91Z -Ramair21 (Air Bag Pics!!!) -Sickness91Z28 -slammed_z -DTL504 (Mounted Air Ride Technologies "AIPPOD") ***

Character limit... bummer.

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5. More Information
I've tried to be as comprehensive as time permits, but I would still suggest that you search the various forums for more information. There is a wealth of other suspension information that I have not touched on, including spring rates & length, coil-overs, camber & caster plates, etc. There have been some great discussions about handling and suspension by those members who have been around for some time, and I have benefited greatly by their knowledge. It would be a good idea to read up on posts regarding suspension dynamics and handling, as you will gain a better understanding of how your suspension functions.

There are also several good technical reference books on suspension and handling, and I've listed a few of them here:
-Race and Rally Car Sourcebook: The Guide to Building and Modifying a Competition Car - Allan Staniforth
-Competition Car Suspension: A practical handbook - Allan Staniforth
-Chassis Engineering - Herb Adams

Good luck!

Nice thread man. Some time in compiling all this.

Super Kev - YOU ROCK!
We are always reading your posts and this info is timely as we are finally going to pickup the drop spindles, C-4 brakes and then drop her down - looking at bagging the IROC. Thanks again.

I don't really like the idea of air bags. That's alot of added weight, and you never know what the spring rate really is. JMO

I've read that you could shorten stock springs by compressing them with a compressor to the length you want and placing the whole thing in a 400* oven for about 20min. then let cool slowly to regain temper.

Bad idea. Messes with the temper and the spring rates. Seen the Hondas setting an inch off the ground and bouncing like a baby toy? That's what they did.

Sure it was the springs and not the shocks?

I'm sure the fact they were running stock shocks didn't help, but when you heat the springs, it messes up the temper of the spring no matter how you cool it. At least that's what I've observed and read on here.

I'm attaching the article on Coil shortening from "How to Make Your Car Handle"......

I must have been misinformed then. All I've ever heard about heating the coils to lower a car is bad. And it still only lowers the car, not increases spring rate. I have seen Hondas that heated the spring, and it did make the car bounce around like a toy (almost a foot of travel from braking) and I know they heated them to lower the car. Might have done it incorrectly or not used shocks.

Well I think the difference is that "heating springs" is usually in reference to some hack job just putting a flame to the spring while its in the car. This results in an uncontrolled and localized reaction.

A slow heating and cooling at a controlled temperature is a completely different thing. Still pretty much a PITA and a trial and error thing. If you have a lot of time(and no money) or are confined by some rules it my be a loophole for you.

I just find that buying "lowering springs" is a mixed bag...It may say it lowers the car 1" or 1.75", but which car? Every modded car is different. My car has aluminum heads, no A/C, headers, battery in the rear...I know for a fact that sportlines don't lower my car 1.75"! So I'm looking for alternatives. I'm gonna try the heated thing to "customize" the springs....we'll see!

Excellent thread super_kev, very well written.

All that bounce on those slammed imports is usually in the shocks. Most of the time it is worn out stockers still in a set of stiff lowering springs. But a cranked out set of adjustables will do the same thing on a car that is too light.

Heating the springs is an old-school lowering trick, but is usually performed with a torch. It's a fast way to get a car low, and if you know what you are doing the change in ride is minimal. I've got a buddy with a 65 Riviera who's frame sits about an inch from the ground, it is all torched springs and with the 18 inch rims it rides really nice and handles like it is on rails. Can be a b**** to get it flat though.

I think manufacturers use an average lowering height on otherwise stock cars. You honestly don't expect manufacturers to give lowered heights on every possible mod that can be done on a car. Another thing to consider when buying springs is the spring rate, which I think the sportlines are a horrible choice. Eibach admits the the sportlines are not a performance spring, but they are made "just for looks" of the car being lowered.

I think all in all, lowering the car is really more than just throughing shorter spings on it! There is a lot more to take in account.

I also think that a coil-over conversion is a really great way to customize your ride height.

The weight jacks are a much cheaper option than the coil-overs for ride height customization.

I have a question. With the Eibach Pro series lowering kit what all do you need to change? It says the shocks are ok? But what about the other suspensions components like panhard bar and LCA brackets? Do i need them? -Matt

I have a Jamex springs around my car. I am wondering how many inches lowering my springs are for front and rear? Also what is the part number of the springs? Since I want to keep it as a record incase I will change my springs later on.

Thanks.

If you drop the car, the first thing to replace is the shocks. They say the stock ones are ok so they can sale more. In truth, using stock shocks (or replacement shocks) is a bad idea. You need a shock designed for lowering springs. KONIs (Yellow or Red), Bilstein HDs, the nice Tokicos and KYBs. Then getting a set of LCARBs will correct your lower control arm angle and a adjustable PHB will re-center the rear axle after lowering.

Edit: Didn't realize this was new.

I just acquired some 1.75" dropzone springs for 50 bucks and they're NEW so i couldn't pass them up.

I think the 1.75 will be too much drop, im looking for somehting like the sportline drop that is 1.6 and 1.3. The front i'm planning on using some thick 5/8 id heater hose to raise it .25~.20 so im at that 1.5-1.6 mark. The rear im planning on doing the heater hose as well, but with .5" id hose it will only raise it .15~.20. What else could i do to raise the rear about a tenth or even a quarter? Thanks

Looking at lowering my 1989 Firebird just a tad. Nothing as radical as the dropped spindle photos posted. My struts and shocks have had it due to age not mileage (car only has 19K). I have a lot of space above the 245/60/16 tires.
I was wondering if the stock GTA springs for a car the same year are shorter than the standard Firebird springs? Any ideas?

most likely no

you will have to cut what you have, or purchase lowering springs

Extended length ball joints will also drop the front end like a drop spindle would.
HOWE RACING pn 22475,22474,22473,22472,22471 for the ball studs and #22494 for the housing.

i just got a 1991 camaro z28, the guy i got it from tolded me that is was lowered befor he got it but does not know how much lower it is... i live in the city and there are lots of speed bumps around my house and i cant drive over any of them with out bottom out or of that matter hit any bumps in the road...i was planing on putting new shock in any way just wanted to know were to mesure ride high so i can find out how much lower the car is so i can bring it back up a little if not back to stock if it just 1"

My car stock is 27.5" front left and front right, and 27.75" rear left and rear right. Stock isolators are about 1/2" thick. When getting new shocks you may want to get some new springs as well which are about $60 or so ea. along with new isolators. I believe the popular stock upgrade spring is the 5662 moog springs which are stiffer rate springs, but are stock ride height.

thanks will have to look when car get back from inspection

WIll installing am eibach prokit require an allignment?
I'm not sure if the front end drop os enough to change the camber.
Thanks,
Kory

Lots of interesting info in this thread. I am wondering about realistic ground clearance for a daily driver.
Our roads in Ohio suffer from frost damage so are not a smooth as I remember some West coast roads to be,

If I check I think the bottom of the K member is the low point. I really do not want a skid plate under there.

Does 5" under the center of K member seem reasonable? This is about 1" lower than many street cars.

Just what i was looking for! Thanks

IVE LOWERED A FEW CARS AND TRUCKS BUT THIS MY FIRST CAMARO DROP
.ANYBODY GOT A RECO FOR A SET UP THAT IS GOING IN A CAR THAT IS BEING CONFIG'D FOR A TOP SPEED RUN ON A GOOD ROAD ?
ARE LCARBS AND A ADJ PAN HARD BAR ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY ON A LOWERED CAR ?

I'm on the same boat as the other guys in here with the Eibach Pro-Kit. It's a very slight drop (1"). I was curious whether or not you really had to worry about the lca relocating brackets, pinion angle, etc. with such a small drop.

IM GOING DOWN APPROX 2.5" WITH CUT SPRINGS. ILL FIND OUT IN A FEW WEEKS WHAT RIDE HEIGHT / HANDLING I GET WHEN THE ENGINE GETS BACK IN. I KNOW ILL NEED ADJ CAMBER PLATES IN FRONT SO MY TIRES DONT FUBAR ON THE INSIDE EDGES.

im also lowering 1" w/ eibach springs. are the lca relocatiob brackeys etc really neccessary for a daily driver. thanks.

Just looked at my tires. Inside shoulder worn pretty bad. I also have the eibach pro kit. I'm not sure how else you can adjust camber on these other than the relocation brackets.

.

Now I'M confused...

"Lower control arm (LCA) relocation brackets will give the LCAs the proper angle after lowering (which moves the axle up)."


I guess I misunderstood what he meant...

the rear control arm is supposed to be about level at ride height> the LCARB's help correct this after the car is lowered, since after lowering, the front of the lca is too low compaired to the rear, so you lower the rear mount to compensate.

this is not considered "camber" or "caster", those are only adjustable in the front.

I was thinking of the front control arms this entire time. I had the idea that these helped relocate the front control arms to prevent them from squatting or something...woops.

yes, defiantly a brain fart if you ask me

Definately...pretty embarrassing but I guess I should pay more attention next time.

if your springs and shocks havent been replaced in a long time, im sure they are sagging and almost shot! i was going to do the pro kit but i ended up going with the sportlines and tokico 5 way adjustable shocks and struts from shox.com for $746. i am very happy with the ride height and quality! im sure it would have made it look stock height if i went with the pro kit so i reccomend getting the sportlines. no clearence issues at all with the tires rubbing or going over bumps.

^^ More please.. Looks real good..

thanks. Mr.froman

ok so after reading this i found that 1 i bought a set of springs you didnt list they are KSPORT GT lowering springs that lower the car 1.75 all the way around 2 i was wondeing how to index them and i did as you said but the springs i bought had a flat spot on them that i put in the notch was this correct or no??? 3rd what are you supossed to do and how can you tell if you have index the fron springs wrong???

Got my wheels and tires about 3 weeks ago...time to save up for the ls1 t56 swap now!

Thanks for the reminder about relocating the lca brackets and torque arm. I thought about the panard bar though as i plan to build my own along with LCAs and add coil overs all around.

im looking to get sportline lowering springs for my formula, my question is is all of this necessary? panhard bars, lca relocation, etc. seems like the tire wear could be fixed with a good alignment.

also, will these sportline spring be an improvement over my ws6 springs? i dont want to switch everything to find out im losing performance

I am wondering about the adjustable torque arm and front alignment. I can handle the LCARBS and panhard bar and springs. But are the torque arms really necessary? I don't do much racing, just a little hot roddin here and there. Is pinion angle going to effect my car much as a daily driver and not a race car?

And I'm with the last guy, wouldn't a good alignment take car of the camber issues up front?

I want to use factory style shocks/struts.

I would be using the Eibach pro series-- 1.6 in front, and 1.3 inches lower in rear