Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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I can build a complete car minus the body work and feel great about it. To get it in paint myself I'm lucky to not burn the whole thing down before finishing.
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Thanks! Soon I hope to paint the k-member, install the master cylinder, brake lines, steering box, and steering column. Then I think the motor can go back in.
you got a picture of the motor? or have you built it yet or whats the deal with it..
__________________ 358 block, rpm perofrmer heads, rpm air gap intake, comp cam 275 (maybe), 1.6 comp silver lifters, edelbrock 600 carb, mallory dizzy, 150 shot NOS, rebuilt 350 turbo, B&M megashifter, 3.23 gears and more looking to be in by january. shooting for 400-450 hp without NOS. tired of seeing that antifreeze green mustang trying to be a badass around town.
The motor has been in the car for several years now. It is a .030" over 400 sbc. 11:1 compression, solid roller cam 250*/258* duration .598" lift, rocker stud girdle, pro magnum roller rockers, 1.550 valve springs, aluminum pro 1's 215cc dart heads, 2.055 in. 1.6 exh. valves. DD2000 says 526hp at 6000 rpm and 545 tq at 4500 rpm. Never had it at the track yet.
have you ever had a problem with throwing a belt with using the aluminum pulleys. im gonna get them for mine but everybody says after like 5K theyll throw the belt. my grandpa runs them on all his street rods for the past 10 years and has never thrown a belt.
__________________ 358 block, rpm perofrmer heads, rpm air gap intake, comp cam 275 (maybe), 1.6 comp silver lifters, edelbrock 600 carb, mallory dizzy, 150 shot NOS, rebuilt 350 turbo, B&M megashifter, 3.23 gears and more looking to be in by january. shooting for 400-450 hp without NOS. tired of seeing that antifreeze green mustang trying to be a badass around town.
__________________ 358 block, rpm perofrmer heads, rpm air gap intake, comp cam 275 (maybe), 1.6 comp silver lifters, edelbrock 600 carb, mallory dizzy, 150 shot NOS, rebuilt 350 turbo, B&M megashifter, 3.23 gears and more looking to be in by january. shooting for 400-450 hp without NOS. tired of seeing that antifreeze green mustang trying to be a badass around town.
Why is your camber set so much different between left and right?
Where is it very different? It looks really close to me...
Why would it matter anyway since it still needs so much work?
__________________ I started racing when I was 7 years old and here I am now... KONI Yellows | Pro-Kit | J&M Strut Mounts | Edelbrock STB | Spohn SFC |
36mm/24mm | UMI Adj LCA/PHB/LCARB | Corbeau seats | plus more ...and I'm only 18
Why is your camber set so much different between left and right?
I don't know why. I drove the car for years like that and never noticed it while driving. Hmmm. I'll leave it like that for now. When I get the 4-link set up and the car back on the road again I'll get it to an alignment shop. Might be a good idea anyway, with all the cutting that the chassis shop did.
Well, I made some progress this past week. I blasted and painted brackets, braces, hood latch, and hood hinges. The brake lines, line lock and master cylinder are next. I got the steering box, drag link and tie rods, and sway bar bolted on.
With a good race type rear anti-roll your roll center will already be too stiff to have any benefit from the front bar. - On most smaller tired cars that see street duty I work at keeping the front bar; once you have tubs, big rears, and skinnies there's no reason.
More pictures. Rear firewall looks great. Fuel cell must be a tight fit. They removed the hatch latch. LOL. I love how the bottom of the car will be smooth. All of the fuel lines, filters, and pump will be above the floor.
Um hope you dont ever have a leak...isnt it illegal to run any compressed fuel line inside the passenger compartment?
Many guys run the in trunk line above the floor and mount the pump above the floor; much easier access should there be any issues. Just exit out to underneath the car before going through the rear bulk head and it's perfectly legal/safe.
I have before and after pics of my car with the anti-roll. HUGE difference, I'll try to get them scanned at home and post. A lot of energy is wasted with body roll in a 4-link. If it pulls the front tires, w/o an anti-roll, it will take an excessive amount of pre-load to keep the rear tires planted evenly and thus the car going straight. 6-flats of pre-load when I got it is what made the decision to cut my car completely up and re-do almost the entire chassis, not just do the front end(had stock k-member/springs/etc when I got it).
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Hmmm. I'll leave it like that for now. When I get the 4-link set up and the car back on the road again I'll get it to an alignment shop. Might be a good idea anyway, with all the cutting that the chassis shop did. 
