Hey all, I'm looking at doing something about my lack of traction in the near future. I honestly thought it would be better than what it is with the aftermarket parts I have on it already, but I know it's not optimal and needs improvment. I'm looking at hopefully getting great traction off the line without sacrificing too much on the handling side, since it's street driven mostly, but it won't be a road racer by any means.. A good balance would be nice. Also not interested in lowering the car since it barely makes it up driveways or speed bumps as is without tearing off ground FX...I like the stock stance. Here's what it has so far: - UMI non-adjustable torque arm w/poly bushing - Lakewood LCA's w/poly bushings - UMI wonderbar - 36MM front sway bar off an IROC Z with stock bushings (kinda worn) - All other bushings on frond end are PST poly. - Stock '83Z rear swaybar w/poly endlinks - 9" Moser rear, 3.70 with detroit tru-trac - Spohn sway bar brackets - Spohn SFC's (older style) - original struts and shocks (104K on them) - BFG P245-60R15 radials all around on stock rims - for now. - Stock replacement front springs - Original rear springs (104K on them) - Stock disc brakes in front, Ford Explorer drums in rear. That's all I can think of. I've been considering adding LCA relocation brackets to see if it'll help. Any suggestions welcome!

Decent tires would be a good starting point. Then some rear shocks.

People always seem to forget those...

Shocks will help you maintain traction in cornering as well.

Since you see to be building it to go straight, I would say do it in this order...

1. LCARB
2. wider tires (275's fit easily)
3. new shocks
4. bigger rear bar

Maybe you should keep the stock worn rear springs because they are soft and will allow weight transfer. You would probably benefit from new front springs... they wont be worn out so they will also help shift the weight back to the rear tires.

Thx for the replies so far guys.

- Front springs are new, rears are originals.
- I know BFG's are maybe not the best for pure traction, but their new, and I'd like to put a few miles on them before I get rid of them. They have less than 5K on them. But bigger rears are on the agenda ...and wheels with softer compound tires.
- Should I get shocks and struts? I've heard having weaker struts up front helps weight transfer? Any brands better than others?
- LCARBS - definatley then. I'll get those first.
- Any particular rear sway bar? What size?

It actually handles decent, not a road racer but....

Thx again, any thing else? keep em coming!!

I guess you don't really have to mess with springs then.

Koni SA's aka Sports aka Yellows, are great for autocross and road racing but I have no idea if they are good for drag racing (I'm thinking they would be valved to stiff for that). My knowledge of building to go straight is limited. I would think you would want some softer shocks out back and firmer up front for weight transfer but don't quote me on that.

I have heard the biggest you can go for the rear sway bar is best for drag racing and that taking the front bar off when your racing helps a little. However, since it is also a street car, I would leave the front bar alone and just get a stock GM 24mm solid rear bar. Unfortunately, that is one of the few sizes I don't have available for sale right now. I would go to the junkyard and pull some more... but it is cold out. I recommend checking local junkyards for them or posting in the wanted forum.

PS - You should definitely come to the gathering wherever it will be... I want to check out your car.

The lower control arm relocation brackets will make a big difference for such a small cost. Tires are key as well and I noticed you still have stock shocks... those 3 things will change a lot. Also I know you have a non-adj. torque arm... I would be curious to what your pinion angle is with the 9".. that could be a issue as well.

I'm not positive, but I think drag racers want the rear to drop, but not alot. Most of the wanted travel is getting the front to come up. You'd want stiffer compression settings on the rear shocks and soft rebound settings on the fronts.

TQ arm, Control arms, and tires...

You want a loose extension on the front struts and a fairly stiff rear compression. I went 1.66's on 17" wheels on freakin Monroe sensa-junk rears and KYB fronts. 90/10 front struts are great for launch, but high powered cars tend to need the compression side a little softer to help keep air out from under the car down track. - IMO they're fine down to the 10.0 range, past that adjustables are a big plus.

LCARB's may or may not help depending on your current instant center height vs weight distribution and ride height. Seeing as though you have stock rear springs(they've likely settled) I would imagine that lowering the control arm some would help. - Knowing your pinion angle and being able to adjust it helps considerably, but many guys have gone pretty fast on the stock tq arm.

Past that, tires, tires, tires. Rad TA's just don't hook.

I just got done measuring it....you guys at UMI asked me this question before in another post since I have a drivetrain vibration in the car too. I measured it just like the BMR website told me to. I got -4 at the rear of the driveshaft and +2 at the bottom of the torque arm on the mounting plate....I think that's a -2 correct?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that's where it should be.

-2 is good for street/ strip rides from what i hear. but personal opinion is tires, street tires in general suck at the track because unlike slicks or drag radials they get very greasy when you put heat to them, which kills traction. but as far as getting ride of your tires on the car you could just get extra rims for cheap and some slicks/ drag radials to use at the strip. just keep in mind that if you are running radials on the front at the strip to drive around the water box and back in. the reason that i bring this up is that the dudes at norwalk, oh gave me crap about it because i left my 17's up front and didn't put on my skinnys on and didn't think about it.

As long as the mounting plate is parrallel with the pinion, then yes, that is correct.

What angle are the lca's at? For straight line traction you want them at minimum to be parrallel to the ground if not uphill toward the body. - Past that it's shocks and tires.

For pinion angle questions and adjustment we recommend speaking with Jerry in our technical support department. Its much easier to explain this way

Please give him a call at 814-857-5400

Thanks!
Ryan

Ryan - I was just satisfying your curiosity as to what my pinion angle is with the 9" rear end installed. Since I have one of your non-adjustable torque arms, there's no changing it anyway. So unless you have more info that can't possibly be posted here for some reason...no need for me to waste your time.

From all the reading I've done on multiple web sites, I understand what pinion angle is now, and what effects it has if not within range.