When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hey man i hope you see this because i have been searching everywhere for some actual "hard copy" stuff instead of some stupid video..
So, i had a problem with my tilt steering moving all over the place and i got to the bolts to tighten them up, no problems so far, until i noticed i have some small metal pieces in my hand while i was putting the plastic turn signal switch housing part back on ( the part the turn signal bolts too). for a day or two everything was working perfectly, until i try turn shut my vehicle off. they key wont turn counter clockwise....so my truck is still on and i cant turn the key!!! i need to know what the back of that tan piece looks like. if you know how i can get some help please email me back please!! thank you for reading and trying to understand this!!
If the bearings on that shaft are bad can they be replaced? when I took mine apart the bearings fell apart. I know if they can I will need alot more disassembly.
This "how to" is great, I would be lost without it. I've gotten down to removing the plastic column cover, and I was looking at the signal lever, and I noticed a black wire that looks to be broken, I was wondering if anyone knows what its for and do I need to reattach it, not sure if it was ever attached.
Oh, and the tension spring for the tilt, it seems to just sit there, doesn't really tension no matter where I tilt the column, is that normal?
Thanks for any assistance, I have attached a picture of the wire I am talking about.
Not sure what the black wire is for off the top of my head. I would look at a repair manual and find the wiring diagram. Could be something for PassKey which is often faulty and/or by-passed on these cars.
No that's not normal. If memory serves there should be some part of the steering hub that rides against the spring and pushes it in as you move the wheel down which is why the whee jumps into the highest position when you pull on the tilt lever.
Unfortunately I do not own my car anymore so I can't get anymore pictures for you.
Thanks, I'll see if i can find a wiring diagram. I didn't think the spring just sitting there was normal, that's the way it was when I took it apart though, no tension at all.
If everything is working on your car then I probably wouldn't mess with the wire. I'd be willing to bet it's got something to do with disabling the PassKey ignition since it looks like it was cleanly cut. I'd probably just tape the ends so they don't touch anything or get moisture in them. If you don't have one I would highly recommend getting a Chilton manual. Most auto parts stores have them in stock for our cars. Then run about $20, you may be able to get one on amazon for less if you are ok with waiting a few days.
As far as the tension spring goes. Is it loose inside its little hole? You should be able to take a big #3 Phillips and push in a give it a quarter turn to disengage the lock tabs and then it should come out of the hole under its own tension. If there is no tension then there may be something missing from behind the spring. If there is tension there then there must be a piece broken or missing from the hub that is supposed to rest on top of the spring and push it in when you tilt the wheel down.
Good luck. If you spend time watching the pieces move and figure out how they all interact then you will understand the mechanisms and figure it out. That's what I had to do.
Originally Posted by Jason1313
Thanks, I'll see if i can find a wiring diagram. I didn't think the spring just sitting there was normal, that's the way it was when I took it apart though, no tension at all.
Thanks sled_fiend, I think that's what I'm going to do.
I figured out why the tilt spring had no tension on it, I found this down in the column, apparently this is what the tension spring goes over to create the tension I no longer have. I wonder if I can leave the spring out and it will be OK without it?
Interesting. If you leave the spring out I think the tilt will still work but the wheel will fall all the way down whenever you pull the tilt release lever. Things not working the way they should bugs the crap out of me so I would replace it if it were me. If it doesn't bug you though then have at. Glad you at least figured it out.
Here's another problem I'm running into putting the column back together. When I try to slip the collar back on I can't get the collar past the wire that connects to the ignition gear, when I try to put the collar on it causes the wire to pop out disabling the steering wheel lock pin. Anyone else run into this problem? The picture shows the wire I am talking about.
Here's another problem I'm running into putting the column back together. When I try to slip the collar back on I can't get the collar past the wire that connects to the ignition gear, when I try to put the collar on it causes the wire to pop out disabling the steering wheel lock pin. Anyone else run into this problem? The picture shows the wire I am talking about.
Excellent Post, I just did this job. Took 4-6 hours because I never did anything like this before, and did it very very carefully. Cant tell you how important it is to be meticulous. Here's some more info:
1) That switch thing is tricky, what holds it in is a copper clip, when I pulled out the assembly I almost lost the copper clip!! So when you put it all back, reinsert the copper clip, then insert the switch thing in parallel with inserting the bolt for the ignition cylinder and in parallel with the ignition cylinder. All three have to go in together, carefully.
2) The back half of the assembly should be lined up, before joining it with the front half of the assembly, use grease to hold the plastic thing that pushes against the high-beam on-off lever (its not a dimmer switch). Make sure your high-beam lever is still sitting in the slot under the dash otherwise you will have to take everything apart again.
3) Those pivot pins are tricky to get out, I used the snap-on pivot pin remover wrong and broke the tool, luckily I was able to back out the part stuck in the pin. Line it all up carefully, and flush, before using the tool.
4) Sure enough, 4 loose screens. Used the red loctite on them and put them all back in. its all like new now! Thanks
First I'd like to thank everyone for the great info and write up. Our RS driver/restomod had this steering slop problem and at first I thought it was the "4 bolts"...so following the awesome writeups found here I disassemled the column only to find those bolts were tight as the day they were installed. The problem I did find was That the pivot pins were "loose" especially the left one. SO I pulled them and inspected, they looked ok so I put them back in. It tightened up the wheel a little but over a few days the same problem came back...the left pin had worked its way out again. Assuming it was the housing that may have been work I began to look for a housing and or a coulmn. Whille looking I did some more reading and discovered this:
Worked like a charm! And you don't have to disassemble the column. I'll have to admit it's for pricey $50), but compared to the alternative(s), its a super time saver and far less.
I did this for the first time today and I highly recommend preparing yourself by studying this and having the proper tools too. The tools are cheap and could be found online or even at your local auto parts store. The trouble I had was getting some slack in the wires when I had to pull the turn signal switch over the column. I found out its easier disconnecting the connectors at the bottom of the column to loosen up the wires. Also be aware if you pull out the pivot pins it gets really messy and you might panic a lil like I did but its not that hard to figure out how it all goes back together. Just be careful to pop the spring out first and then pull the pins out. I messed up and had three clips pop out that were part of the hi beams because I pulled the pins out first. In the end I tightened all four screws and it took me about 7 hours for my first time.
I went ahead and purchased the tools: Lisle 19940 Pivot Pin Remover, and Powerbuilt 648466 Steering Wheel Lock Plate Removal Tool from Amazon, already had a steering wheel puller. Also purchased a Grant GT 414 and horn button kit to update the project. My column is quite loose, hopefully I won't run into any problems. If the 4 screws are tight, at least I know where to get the oversize pivot pins, thanks!
Hello, I am having some column issues as well, but I'm not quite sure if what I'm experiencing is the same to what you guys are. There isn't really slop in the column as described, but there are issues with movement with it in various conditions. I made a video of the symptoms, anyone have something similar to this?... or even if not for those with steering column knowledge, would the symptoms shown here be fixed by tightening things up as described in this thread, or does this look like something that would require a whole new column instead? Or maybe a pivot pin? etc... Thanks for the help!
After pulling the steering column cover over the steering column this fell onto the floor. Cannot find where it needs to be placed back. Would be great if someone knows where this part goes.
After pulling the steering column cover over the steering column this fell onto the floor. Cannot find where it needs to be placed back. Would be great if someone knows where this part goes.
That's the buzzer key that tells you that the key is still in the ignition. Goes on the right side, just kind of sits in there. There are pictures on here of that assembly if you look for the steering wheel removal threads. You don't actually need it, won't hurt anything, just wont' tell you that your key is still in the ignition with the door open.
That's the buzzer key that tells you that the key is still in the ignition. Goes on the right side, just kind of sits in there. There are pictures on here of that assembly if you look for the steering wheel removal threads. You don't actually need it, won't hurt anything, just wont' tell you that your key is still in the ignition with the door open.
-Pull the turn signal switch over the steering spindle and let it hang out of the way. (you may need to remove the bottom panel under the dash to get some more slack in the wires. I didn’t but you might.)
-Remove the ignition hold down pin. As you loosen the hold down pin the screw head will hit the plastic switch to the left and start to pull that out as well. You can just grab that switch and pull it out of its square hole.
-Pull the steering column cover over the steering column. This is kind of tricky and takes some stretching of the wires but it will slide over the column. Don’t worry if the plastic part behind the turn signal lever falls apart when you remove the column cover, this is part of the dimmer switch actuator and goes back together pretty easy.
Hopefully I can get a reply from OP or somebody else with some knowledge. I’ve made it to the step of sliding the column cover over. Problem being that I have as much as I can get out of the wires, all of the slack below included, and there’s not enough for the turn signal switch and even turn signal arm itself to come out enough for the housing to slide off and move to the next step. Any insight or tips are appreciated.
I've had a loose steering wheel for years (and also haven't driven it in four years). Today was the day I decided to do this thread and to my surprise, the tilt was nice and tight (maybe someone already fixed it 15+ years ago before I bought the car).
Anyway, after removing my Grant wheel, the issue I found was a loose main nut, as well as all 3 hub bolts being loose. I was also unhappy to see that all 3 bolts were of different lengths.
In summary, if you are in doubt about the factory or aftermarket size, I spoke with an employee of Grant who told me they need to be 1/4 #28 3/4 dimensions. Blue lock-tite is also recommended.
Photo 1 is of the hub from my car
Photo 2 is an example that although they look correct installed, once removed, YOUR bolts may be of different lengths (like mine were) and lastly,
Photo 3 is the $1.50 TOTAL solution from Home Depot.
I've had a loose steering wheel for years (and also haven't driven it in four years). Today was the day I decided to do this thread and to my surprise, the tilt was nice and tight (maybe someone already fixed it 15+ years ago before I bought the car).
Anyway, after removing my Grant wheel, the issue I found was a loose main nut, as well as all 3 hub bolts being loose. I was also unhappy to see that all 3 bolts were of different lengths.
In summary, if you are in doubt about the factory or aftermarket size, I spoke with an employee of Grant who told me they need to be 1/4 #28 3/4 dimensions. Blue lock-tite is also recommended.
Photo 1 is of the hub from my car
Photo 2 is an example that although they look correct installed, once removed, YOUR bolts may be of different lengths (like mine were) and lastly,
Photo 3 is the $1.50 TOTAL solution from Home Depot.
None of those fasteners look factory, the middle flange bolt looks to be cut to length, the correct way to classify that bolt would be 1/4-28 x 3/4"
01-03-2013, 09:15 PM
And you don't have to disassemble the column. I'll have to admit it's for pricey $50), but compared to the alternative(s), its a super time saver and far less.
