I got an estimate for rebuilding the front suspension of my 1988 IROC. It does not need it now but will if I drive the car a lot of miles. It is showing signs of wear after 21 years and 98,000 miles but it is able to hold an alignment. I am not a mechanic so forgive me if I have some part names wrong. It was difficult for me to read the mechanic's estimate. Lower Ball Joints $40.59 times two Strutt Mounts $82.02 times two Strutts $64.87 times two Idler Arm $89.13 Center Link $114.76 Sway Bar Link Kit $12.99 times two Inner Tie Rod Ends $53.96 times two Outer Tie Rod Ends $36.99 times two Control Arm Bushings $35.56 times two Sway Bar Frame Bushings $24.64 times two Total Parts and Tax $988.78 Total Labor $400.00 Alignment $49.95 Total Cost $1,438.73 All parts are Moog and the strutts are Monroe. How does this sound? Is it a fair price? Too much or is this a bargin price?

Check Spohn.net for their front end rebuild kit- you might be able to save a few bucks. You might want to shop around for the best price as well.
The labor seems fair, but I wouldn't really know as I did all my stuff myself.
Have you considered going to a high performance strut or are you wanting to stay stock?

91_5.7,

I have been looking at struts on the Net but I can't make up my mind on which strut I want for my car. I want a strut as close to original as I can get. I do not want a very stiff ride.

I have KONIs on mine, and the ride is pretty stiff, but I think that's due in part to the rest of the stuff I have done to the car. I'd like to stick my KONIs on a stock car and see how it feels, but not many people want you to go wrenching on their car for an experiment lol. Alot of what seems to be rough ride in these cars is due to the amount of noise they make on rough roads. Even with all the stuff done to mine, it takes a pretty rough road to actually make me uncomfortable, but that's my subjective opinion- car's that ride really soft and/or float make me sick to my stomach due to the fact I don't feel in control like I do with my car. I really like the ride of mine on the highway, but high speed pot-holes can be nerve racking.
You might want to look into KYBs or Tokicos. They are more money than the Monroes, but are a better shock. And, you can get them adjustable so you can play with the ride/handling characteristics some. I would think they'd be stiffer than the Monroe and definatly stiffer than the stock, but nothing punishing since you're otherwise stock. You'll be suprised how much more responsive and better the car does in turns with just replacements, but the KYBs or Tokicos would really wake the car up. The Bilstein HDs or KONIs would do it even more so, but you might consider the ride too harsh. Although, I've heard the Bilstein ride isn't bad at all.

I only have experiance with the Koni SA's and worn out stock shocks, but if you want a smooth ride, don't get Koni's. I probably do more racing (autoX) and very aggresive driving with my car then about 80% of the people on these boards so the Koni's are perfect for me.

Check around on the alignment prices. There is a place near me that charges $35 for a front alignment and $60 (I pretty sure that's what it is) for a 4 wheel alignment. Best part is that they specialize in setting up race cars, so they know that the factory stuff isn't ideal for me and they have their own ideal setup in store for my car. Those prices aren't because of any connections or favors either.

Mike

P.S. - That labor cost is exactly why I do my own work. Think of it this way... Do the work yourself, and your probably about half way to a set of really nice heads for your car. That's one of the reasons I was able to do so much to my car despite the lack of income that comes with my age.

Racing geek,

Thanks for the information.

Didn't you install the KONIs with the ProKit, though? Although, the ProKit would probably have similar rates to his stock IROC springs, at least in the front.

Yes I installed them both at the same time, but since the Pro-Kit is only like 15 ft/lbs (or is it inch pounds...) stiffer then stock IROC-Z springs I can't imagine that would make such a big difference. Therefor I attribute the rough ride to the stiffer valving of the Koni shocks.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking when I recalled the spring rates of the IROC vs ProKit. My stock springs were softer since it was a F41 RS and not an IROC. I'm going to put some sound deadening in the back of my car to cut down on road noise to see if that makes the ride seem more comfortable.

Flynt, how stiff would you consider to be too stiff?

The pitman arm is a non-wear part. It is a metal arm pressed onto the steering gear. The idler arm is a wear part that is on the passenger side of the steering linkage.

Those part prices seem high. For instance, the Moog idler arm is $62.79 from RockAuto.com, over $26 less than your quoted price. I bet if you checked the total from Rock Auto vs. his quote, the difference would be a significant number. The guy has to eat, I'm sure, but a 42% markup seems excessive.

Don't forget tie rod adjusters. The stock ones are incredibly awful, consider getting a set from UMI.

Don't forget wheel bearings. My wheel bearings didn't act up or sound bad. I removed the wheel bearing and out fell some balls (Doesn't sound right). This was at 124k when I checked them. I am over due on a front end rebuild.

It is such a subjective issue I don't know how to answer your question. I wish the original struts and shocks were avaliable at the Chevy dealership but they are discontinued.

I would like a stock ride like it just left the factory in Nov. 1987.

I would try to find the closest Bilstein equivalent you can find, then.

Were IROC's equipped with Bilstein struts and shocks from the factory? I knnow the ones on the car are bright yellow.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that they were. Not certain, but pretty sure. You should be able to find a sticker on them somewhere to know for sure, though.

Yes, they are delco-bilstein rear shocks and special front shocks. Started in 1985-obviously.

Go to any local parts store and get a new quote, those prices are absurd

EX:

Advance Auto Ball joints
Cheapies $9.99
TRW $22.99
Moog $31.99

I am going to get two more estimates on a total front end rebuild when I get a few days off. It will be interesting to compair all the estimates.

WOW!!! Those prices are .

Here's what I paid for mine at Advance Auto with lifetime warranty on all parts:

Lower Ball Joints $10 times two
Strutt Mounts $50 times two
Strutts $40 times two
Idler Arm $55
Center Link $0......No need to replace this non wearable part.
Sway Bar Link Kit $10 for the front (Energy Suspension)
Inner Tie Rod Ends $15 times two
Outer Tie Rod Ends $15 times two
Control Arm Bushings $18 times two
Sway Bar Frame Bushings $25 for the front (Energy Suspension)

Total Parts $368....Thats $620 less than what they want to rape you for.

Total Labor $0...These parts are VERY easy to replace with a basic set of wrenches (except for the ball joint tool which you can rent for free @ most parts stores if you don't have one)

Alignment $60

Total Cost $428...Over $1000 less than the quote they gave you.

All my parts were Moog with Monroe struts too.


.....Man, I really need to open up a mechanic shop if that's what they're getting for a couple of hours worth of work.

Frychkn,

I need a buddy like you that can show me how to do it labor for myself. I would really like to do it myself but I don't have the tools, garage, or mechanical knowledge.

Thanks for posting the price you paid for your parts.

It's not really that hard to learn how to do the work. I'd never worked on anything when I started on mine. I had alot to do and didn't have the money for the things I needed and the money to pay someone to do it. Just get a Haynes manual or something of the sort and get to know someone with the facilities you'd need. I'm working on an article (well, it's a group effort) that you might find very helpfull. It contains a How-To with instructions, pictures, tools required, etc. If you wanted, you could come out and use our shop to do the work yourself lol.

91_5.7_TPI,

Thanks for the offer and I would take you up on it if you were not almost in Virginia! I would like to ride in your car to help me make up my mind about the new shocks and struts I need for my 1988.

I send you a PM about a steering box.

haha. I just wish there were some people around here with Camaros that did work on them other than me. I forgot to reply to that, sorry. I'll get back to you in a second.

I just ordered all new parts for my front end since my steering was pretty bad from the car sitting for 4 years b4 i bought it. I ordered my parts online from ebay, all brand new from some company in canada, shipped after five days like it says it will and got here in 3 complete with a ups tracking number so you won't have to worry. But heres what i got:
-Center Link
-Idler Arm
-2 Inner Tie Rod Ends
-2 Outer Tie Rod Ends
-2 End links
-2 Ball Joints

Paid $156 or something like that and with shipping it was right around $180. I'd recommend checking it out good parts and exact OE fit, might not be name brand parts but its steering i mean come on you can't really make all those parts bad so why pay high prices? I'm doing all the work myself minus the alignment for like 1/3 the price of what other people pay

If your car has been properly greased during it's life or even if it hasn't been most of those parts you have listed should be completely functional. Try taking your car for an alignment. If you go to someplace like sears you can be pretty sure they arent screwing you because there really isnt much in it for them. They will tell you if any parts are bad, because they won't work with bad parts. I have seen some nice tie rod end connectors made by hotchkis. The stock ones do look weak, but think how many people drive on exactly the same parts every day.

If you want to stiffen up your suspension and do it on your own begin with sway bar bushings and endlinks. This is a real easy job to do yourself. It would only take a few hours with a basic set of wrenches and sockets, ten bolts total, and all easily accessible.

If this doesnt make much difference go with a new set of monroe sensatrac struts (these are stock on my car) or whatever is stock on your car, because chances are your struts are pretty tired with 98,000. You may want to replace your springs at the same time. I have hotchkis fronts whcih have notably stiffened my ride. Don't forget your springs and shocks work together so they should be replaced together to ensure the longest life and best ride.

We also offer this steering rebuild kit to replace the stock pieces. It'll tighten up the steering as it once was.

Camaro Front Suspension Steering link kit

I finally had some suspension work done on my IROC last week. I only had the idler arm replaced and the steering box adjusted. The idler arm was the most worn part of the suspension. I may replace the sway bar bushings next with Moog parts.

At some point, I am going to replace or rebuild the Bilstein struts and shocks.

Poor casting methods, lower quality metals, lower quality joint designs, cheaper rubber boots. Just some things that come to mind.

I had just found that kit on ebay and came here to see if anyone had bought it. Was it hard to install?

Sorry to bump but I am curious. Are the parts in this kit something you can do in a day on your back under the car or do you need to have the car off the ground with additional tools?

If you can swing a wrench and everything goes smoothly it is very easy to do the whole front end in well under a day. Yes, it can all be done in the driveway with the car on jack stands.