I bought the k member and a arms. Well first the tie rods hit the k member. So i swapped the center drag link around and know the tires rub when turning and when turning its like its trying to push over. So today i swapped the center drag link back and out the tie rods on the front on the link. Its alittle better but it still does it. So my question is what do i do. Should i just get a alignment and see what happens from there or is there another fix.

If the center link was installed correctly the first time and you flipped it over, the alignment would have been so far out, you wouldn't have been able to drive the car.

When I flipped my center link over, I eyeballed the alignment enough to drive the car onto the trailer and take it to an alignment rack. The only reason I have my centerlink flipped over is so I could drop the engine lower. I now need to drop the centerlink to pull the oil pan.

With the centerlink flipped over, the ackerman angle gets screwed up in turns. For me it's not a big issue because I do very few turns.

In the normal position, the tie rod ends should be behind the centerlink.

which side is it hitting on? The idler arm has some vertical adjustment if you lossen the two bolts. It might help get the clearence you need. where is it hitting? The adjust sleave bolts can get in the way even on the factory set up if not positioned right.

Does the k-member bolts have any play in them could you move it back slightly?

The drag link fliped will not work for road/track unless you just use it for drag raceing as it will get your angles off when turned beyond a few degrees.

With everything in the stock location, the rods hit on the front bars of the k member. If i put the tie rods on the front of the center link they are ok, but still hard on turning. Is this just something i have to deal with?

personally I wouldn't live with it.

Is your draglink stock?
Are your tierod ends stock, aftermarket?
with the tie rod ends on the back of the drag link what part of the tie rod is hitting the k-member?

Can you draw the tie rod ends in more on the draglink?

do you have adjustable A-arms that you could move the ball joint forward, which would move the spindal forward which should give you more clearence unless the point of interference is at the draglink to tie rod mount.

Also on the idler arm you can tilt it alittle and force the drag link forward a little. I don't think you will have full range with the tie rods on the front of the drag link.

is the interference with weight on the suspension?

the center link is stock, the tie rods are new from autozone. Its the same with weight or in the air. And my a arms are non adustable. here are some pics the passenger side is worse then the drive side.

Do the tubular A-arms have steering stops on them for the tab on the spindle to hit? The tie rods may be hitting while turning because you're turning farther than recommended with the steering stops missing from the aftermarket A-arms.

With the tie rods in the stock location i cant even turn it to full lock.

When you have the steering turned the drag links move away from the K-member as the idler arm and the pitman arm turn through ther arch. I was thinking the problem would be at center when everything is cloest to the K-member.

Are the greese fitting hitting? Advance inner tierod ends grease fittings or on the end not the back of the rod so that would give you a little clearence there.

Have you checked with the manufacture of the K-member?

I think you can get some clearence by moving the idler arm on the ps side, but you may intern make the driver side worse?

I don't even think this is possible but could you have the K-member on backwards? I would imagine the holes wouldn't line up if you did though.

Well i found the problem, my car was in a accident before i got it on the passenger side. Well i looked at it more and from the looks of it they didnt get it pulled good enough and the idler arm is pushed back to far. So i have to take it off and drill new holes for it to line up right.

Good you found it bad you have damage. I'm surprised if its that far back the panels line up right.

Have you tried loosing the bolts on the mount for the idler arm, there is surprisenly alot of movement in the idler arm bolts you may be able to compensate. Also the upper bolt mounts to the plate that is bolted to the "frame"

Your lucky the K-member mounted w/o problem as you would think those bolts would be off.

Ya, thats what i was thinking, My panels line up pretty well and the k member bolted in with out a problem. I think its just all where the idler bolts. I haven't tried to mess with it yet, i have been kinda busy. I hoping that i wont have to drill the holes out bigger.