Black Z28

iTrader: (2)

Ok its that time to do motor mounts in my car, its worring me with the way they look and when i rev the engine it likes to move a lot so its that time, plus i wanna do long tubes and i jus read it was easier to jus do this first. My questions are that, how easy are they to change out? how much work is it and is it a real head ache? my brother did his on his 2000 ss and it costed him a broken fingure and a 40 dollar light bar that he smashed cause he got agrivated and hes ase ceritifed. thanks for any help guys

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

easy is not a word i would choose to describe changing mounts.

they are a PITA. I did them with the engine out and it was a mess.

What you really need to do is remove the a-arms. You access the nuts through the pockets for the a-arm mounts. Its much easier with the arms off. I did it with the arms on, but it was a real PITA

swap in poly while you are at it, much better than the stock rubber mounts, and dont vibrate much at all.

Black Z28

iTrader: (2)

Yea i got the poly energy mounts, how hard is it to take the a-arms out? i was looking at that of how the two nuts are hiding up there mocking you and then theres that one nut thats out in plain sight and easy to get

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I just installed Energy Suspension poly mounts not too long ago. Yeah, it sucked that the engine and a-arms were in the way but I got the it done. I got the mounts in with a 15mm wrench, 1/4 ratchet, 1/4 swivel, 1/4 extension, couple other hand tools, and a jack to lift the engine up. It was a pain. I easily wasted an entire Saturday on it.

I did have to make a modification on the mounts because of the company's poor quality control. I tried pushing the long bolt through one of the mounts before I installed it, right out of the package, and it wouldn't even go through. What happened was polyurethane material was on the inside. I ended up taking a drill bit about half the size of the long bolt and drilling out all of the excess material that wasn't supposed to be there. If you get a drill bit that is too big, you'll snap the bit.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I would go with normal rubber mounts. The poly raise your engine up and can cause problems with exhaust clearance. They also transmit a lot more vibrations. This is from my experience going from rubber to poly. I am going back to rubber this fall when I have the a-arms off.

Black Z28

iTrader: (2)

yea i jus jacked the car up tonite to see how hard it would be, i got a 3/8 swivel 15mm socket and entention in there to get two of the three, the other one is gonna have to be done with the 1/4, i dont know about this one but its gotta be done. im still debating weather or not to take the a-arms out or not. when taking them out wont the spring come out and hit me in the face or somethin?

Fast92RS

iTrader: (2)

Thats the problem I have with my engine sitting too high with the poly's. Im going to replace them with a set of solid mounts. I know there will be alot of vibration but the car is not a daily driver. The mounts were a PITA to change when the engine was out of the car, I can only imagine how much cursing I will do now with the engine in the car.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Please try to get a ride in a car with solid mounts first. I'd hate for you to have to change them a third time.

Fast92RS

iTrader: (2)

Changed my mounts today. My engine sit lower now and I no longer have clearance problems that I had with the poly mounts. I went with the stock ones, I figured I have enough vibrations. I will hold on to my solid mounts for a later time if the stock ones break.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

They are such a total PITA, why couldn't GM just weld some nuts inside the crossmember, that would have made them real easy to take out.

I changed them to solids, just so I don't have to do it again. As for those saying it will transmit vibrations, I have had them on other cars, there's not much difference with poly mounts. I never really noticed the solids (although I have to admit, it wasn't on f bodies)

This is so much nicer: (yes, bolts will go in from front nuts on the back)