My parts purchase choices and why.
(Some of them I will 'Make My Own' (MMO) but will detail whos peices I would buy to put the par together making certain heavy duty parts that are lightweight and not offered as a unit.)
front to rear-
*Aluminum bumper support (factory hard to find, I had one)
*Wonderbar- Spohn with preload adjustment.
*Steering box- Lee performance boxes
*Tie Rods- MMO with Coleman Racing parts and Allstar Racing parts utilizing bumpsteer outers and inners shim studs and top notch QA1 rod ends (When I say top notch, I mean the expensive 3pc HM-T series)
*Steering shaft- Flaming River shaft and u-joint couplers all stainless
*Hotpart strut mounts- Different camber/caster settings for more precise dial -in. liffetime gaurantee on sperical bearing.
*Kmember- The factory strong unit. It is solid and will take a hit.
*Strut mount brace- MMO 3pt out of Coleman Racing (CRP) aluminum tierods and QA1 Rod Eyes and Linkage Adjusters. Custom welded tabs onto the hotpart strut mounts for STB mounting.
*front struts- Varistrut double adjustable. Lightweight aluminum design. Custom valving availiable.
*Spindles- Racecraft 2" drop spindles- lightweight
*A-arms- Spohn tubular adj w/ Delrin joints (these are hot) and spring boxes. NOTE1:Can fudge slightly more camber and caster without moving the spring into the side of the can. NOTE2: Remove balljoint from Spohn and replace it with a QA1 zero friction balljoint
*Front brakes- check my signiture page if you have never seen the custom Wilwood package I built - custom GW aluminum g-body hubs, all the trick stuff- extremely large and lightweight. 6pistom calipers w/ 2pc aluminum hat 13x1.25 rotors.
* Springs- custom rates probably in the 950 fronts and 250 rear ranges.
* Weight jacks- MMO Coleman racing affixed to top side of cans and adjusted through engine compartment.
*Swaybars- HRE custom made bars with 'in cockpit adjustments' and aluminum lever arms to a-arms, QA1 rodends for links male to female.
*Cage- Grace racing out of Japan
*SFC's- Spohn perimeter type with Grace cage tied into them through floorboard
*TCI 6 speed auto with paddle shifters- handles 850 hp
* ACPT carbon fiber driveshaft- had one of these already light unsrpung weight, strong, light rotation mass. 4.8lbs
*Tqarm- Global West Traclink- strong chassis mount, great clearance, lighter pivot weight (unsprung), shorter length to help get off the corner and reduce nose dive going in. (Road race setup) (Drag race- BMR Extreme)
(I recommend Spohn units though for most people that do not understand reprocussions of shortening the length and the parts & setup changes required to make it work- Spohn makes great fabbed products. He has been a frontrunner in the industry and uses great materials and processes in fabrication. He's been around a while- alot of copycats that do well, but I like what I have seen in Spohn over the years- he is innovative and generally the 1st on the block with good new ideas).
*Rearend- Currie Trac9 lightweight chromemoly housing w/ alum LPW rear cover, aluminum 3rd member, 3:70 lightweight gears, lightweight pinion yoke and misc, Platnum Trac carrier.
*Relocation brackets for LCA's- BMR bolt-on units "also welded". They position well and are strong. Regular weld on types can be welded with poor clocking and cause geomerty/alignment problems. NOTE:I also like the added bracing to the shock mount for coilover addition support. Yes it adds unsprung weight, but I like the strength add factor here to reduce flexing of shock coilover mounts.
*Rear shocks?- (Smiles) Penske 4-ways if I couild afford them. really though, any good doulbe adjustable aluminum body coilover (QA1, Koni, Afco, Proshocks,etc.)
*Coilover rear setup- Spohn reinforcement plates.
*Panhard -("If I used one"that is.-I would go to a different setup, I would build that Mumford link I posted on here.) MMO panhard rod out of Coleman aluminum Trailing arm and Spohn Delrin assemblies on both ends.
*Rear swaybar- HRE adjustable "in-cockpit controlled" swaybar mounted sprung weight on the new Mumford link with aluminum lever arms extending to axle housing and QA1 rodned links. (Swaybars are all basically just a size thing. Any manufacturer is decent for the most part with slight variances. Factory bars are hollow and light, but break over time with corrosion. Just pick whatever from whomever- it is a fine tunning item based on chassis roll weight and spring rate choice. To each his own choice)
*rear brakes- The Wilwood setup I had 4piston fixed caliper, 12.20 x.81 two pc rotors, however, all rotors would be dynamically mounted instead of static mounting like I had for pad runoff in extreme cornering forces.
*rear LCA's (
wer control arms) MMO out of Coleman trailing arms, Spohn Delrin 'front' mounts assemblies, and Qa1 'rear' rodend HM-T series.
*Then also of course I would make various chassis braces accordingly like I did on my other Camaro .
*Wheels- nothing larger than a 17" diameter. larger gets too much metal and too little tire and starts increasing not only unsprung weight, but also massive rotational mass which hinders acceleration and braking.
Dean
To my knowledge, that is the best parts availiable and how I would spend my money today if building another 3rd gen.
