Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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As I am finally starting to collect some parts for my Z28 project I have been looking at the strut tower braces and have a couple questions. First one is: do these things really make a difference? I don't want an interior roll cage and I have a t-top car, but I do plan to run mostly tubular aftermarket chassis and suspension parts and sub-frame connectors. And my second question: I have noticed most strut tower braces are sold for TBI or TPI applications, and since I am planning a LS1 implant, which one will work the best? Thanks in advance for any advise.
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I've read alot about the STBs. I've seen everything from they should have been installed from the factory as they make a huge difference to they don't do anything but add weight. Personally, I plan to install one to see. I've also read that the Edlebrock TBI unit clears a LS1 nicely. That's the plan for me as of now.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
I obviously have no idea what tools are available to you or what kind of fab skills you have, but have you considered making your own? The only reason I bought my Edelbrock bar is because I have so many other projects going atm that I figured screw it and I shelled out the cash. Heck, I still don't even have it installed yet.
My car is getting a major overhaul this winter... new tires and maybe wheels, new front brakes, the SFC will finally be going back on, the STB is going to be bolted on instead of just mocked up, the engine may will be cleaned out of all the junk making it ugly, a couple appearance mods, and the car will be going on a diet (hoping to knock off ~150#).
__________________ Suspension - far from stock, Brakes - far from stock Drivetrain - upgraded, Engine - bolt ons
A LS1 will fit under ANY aftermarket STB. But personally, I believe the TPI one to be stronger, because of the lack of angles.
If you have an aftermarket fiberglass hood, you can run into interference problems, between the STB & the 'glass hood. A friend of mine had to modify the 2 strut mount brakes for the STB (to clear his 'glass hood), to put his STB on. He had to shorten the 2 mounts & drill the mounting hole a little lower.
Personally, I have the UMI 2-pt. I took off my Edelbrock 3-pt, put the UMI STB on & noticed no loss of strength, even going from 3 to 2, losing the mounting points on the cowl. The UMI is much thicker wall & was obviously stronger tubing. Not only that, but the UMI TPI 2-pt was 100% bolt in, no hole drilling needed. There are 2 purely optional bolts that can be added, which require 2 holes to be drilled, but I never bothered to drill the holes & install those 2 bolts.