Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Okay I got my comp eng. 8 point. I will be installing it this week hopefully.
Is there any tricks I should know? Should i just tack the back half to hoop in, then slide it out and weld it. Then slide it into place and weld all the plates down?
Is it normal for the main hoop to be a few inches too long? I placed it in the car and it is a bit long.
Also does anyone have pics of how the welded the main hoop to the floor?
Thanks Jay
__________________ 1987 IROC
370ci LQ Forged
Garrett T6 74mm
TH400 3500 Stall,Pro-brake,R man v/b
PARTING OUT
determine where you want all of your floor plates to be and form / tack them in place. Then fit the main hoop (you may need to hook a ratchet strap to the legs and squeeze the legs in; it seems pretty common and i had to do it with mine). After you have the main hoop fitted, tack it to the floor plates. Then I would fit the cross bar to the main hoop (the one that your harnesses hook to) and tack that in place. You can then fit the two tubes that go down the back and tack them to the main hoop (place several tacks around it to try and keep it from moving when you weld around the top). With that being done, just cut the tacks where the tubes connect to the floor plates; you should be able to manipulate the assembly so you can weld around the tops of the rear support bars.
After you've done that, put the main hoop / down tube assembly back in place, check all your measurements, tack weld it in place and begin welding. Just take your time and skip around welding to try to prevent warping.
Yes, it is normal for the main hoop and all other tubes to be too long. I had to cut like 6 or 8 inches off of my main hoop.
Also, take it slow when doing your notches and try to not have a lot of gap in them. I'm sure some other people can chime in and add some info.
i wouldn't take it back out to weld it. welding it without it in the car is going to cause the bars to move around alot with the heat created be welding. jg is right though about the ratchet strap to close the main hoop in, it's not quite narrow enough to weld it to where the floor plates fall.
__________________ Matt
370ci LSx, "Close Enough Racing" th400, Transmission Specialties XHD9" 4500 stall converter, Moser 9" 4.30's, Mickey Thompson 28x10.5S's rollin' on BS Street Lites. Pump gas and street driven...doin' it all motor!