Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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OK, so this is the problem i have been having with my car since i bought it. The damn car goes all over the lane. I had the tie rod in front replaced cause they said it was bent, that helped a little bit. I have asked all my friends and they claim it is because i have 245's on front(stock). and that makes them go all over the road cause its riding in the groves. If i hold my steering well straight down the highway it will go back and forth violently in between the lane where the groves in the road are from other drivers. I highly doubt it is supposed to be that bad from 245's. I have to constantly fight to keep it going relatively straight down the road. Could my suspension do this? anyone have a similar problem or any ideas??? PLEASE HELP! bout ready to blow this thing up.
I have yoko 245zr16s on the conv and it doesnt do that.
When I had it aligned for street/canyon carving the shop said things were a little wore out, 86K miles, but nothing to worry about.
I did notice after the align a smiggen more of wander but thats gonna happen with a performance alignment.
new idler arm/ adjust slop out of steering and a good alignment, maybe new ball joints, but yes the wider the front tirers the more they wonder, your problem is worm out suspension componets, my car used to be the same way, and it would hydroplane, and there was no controlling it, it went where it wanted to go regardless of driver input
__________________ THE MODS Suspension: 18X9.5" hyper black c6 wheels with 265/40/18, 275/40/18 michelin PS2, AGR 12.7 to 1 steering box .225 valve, J&M strut mounts KONI Yellow sport/ Ground Control Weight Jacks#1,000/200, double adjustable lower control arms+ UMI LCA relocation brackets, UMI Panhard relocation "chassis side" with single adjustable UMI panhard, JEGS Panhard relocation "axle side". UMI SFC's. UMI tunnel mounted torque arm, 36/ 23 mm swaybars, Iroc wonderbar, Edelbrock 3 pt STB, Moog front end steering componets, Spohn bumpsteer kit. Intake: Ultimate T.B. + spacer, 14 X 3" open element 1.6 Comp Cams Roller rockers Exhaust: 1 5/8" Edelbrock shorty headers through 3" Flowmaster, carsound 3" converter.
ok, thanks for the info. what do you suggest i replace them with? replace the whole front end suspension or just bushings? i see you have moog steering components listed. Your car doesn't move all over anymore?
what do you suggest i replace them with? replace the whole front end suspension or just bushings?
Your car is 20+ years old. It needs a front-end rebuild: ball joints, center link, idler arm, end links, etc. Furthermore, there's probably some slop in the steering box:
can i just buy a new steering box or do i have to rebuild one?
Either way. But the link above provides an easy fix, though eventually you'll probably need to replace the box (purchase a quick ratio version, the kind found on IROC's). Try the adjustment first and see what you think. I believe you'll be surprised--especially if you do it in conjunction with the front-end rebuild.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
sup, my ride pulls to the right. i put her on stands and replaced the ball joints, struts, bearings, rotors, inner and outer tie rods w/clamping, strut mount. im going to get it aligned after i finish torqueing a few bolts and double checking. I replace those parts because im wanting to get an alignment because of the pull, rather then adjust old stock parts, i did a minor rebuild now and saved on multiple alignments. This is the first timeive ever giving the car an alignment.most likley been a whole decade.. I skimped on the pit, idler, and center. but eventually will next year or sooner. But question is. most likely my pull was due to a tie rod typically, right?
Also i was looking at the coil over suspension kit from spohn or any other kit like that. Would that reduce play even more. Or is it worth it to do this?
i did a minor rebuild now and saved on multiple alignments. This is the first timeive ever giving the car an alignment.most likley been a whole decade.. I skimped on the pit, idler, and center. but eventually will next year or sooner.
The pitman is a non-wear piece and unless the car has been in an accident/damaged in some way, it doesn't need replacing. If you can afford it, go to Rockauto where the idler and center link are about $150. To my way of thinking, why pay for the alignment twice. Locally, that would be $100+.
Duck,
I'd go with simple OE replacements.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Transam85dudeman, The tie rod was not the problem with your car pulling. Tierods only adjust toe and toe isnt a pulling angle. Toe just wears tires and makes your steering wheel crooked. Caster, Camber, and tires make your car pull (for the most part). before you get it aligned try movin ur R/F tire to L/F and see if the pull goes away or the other way. But with replacing all those parts you still definitly need to get it aligned
