Recently I have been losing brake fluid. Fill it up and the brakes worked fine until it ran out. Turned out to be a leaking wheel cylinder (driver side) so I changed it. Ran fine for a few hours, pedal slowly started going to the floor again but no fluid loss. I am gravity bleeding as I write this to see if air in the system is the culprit. But, after pedal went to the floor again with no fluid loss, a very loud popping noise is heard when I shift gears, hit brakes, and hit the gas. As I was removing passenger side rear tire for the gravity bleed, I heard the same pop as I tightened the lug nuts (dont ask why I tightned it while removing...). I could see the rear end barely moving (car was locked in 1st at the time) and then a very loud popping noise. When I got to the driver side rear, I noticed the parking brake bar was misaligned. Drove from NC to DC like this not knowing, popping started as I was accelerating on an on-ramp in VA. Pedal starting going to the floor (with no fluid loss) as I left NC. I fixed the wheel cylinder a few hours before I left, btw. I realigned it (replacing all springs on both sides) and still have absolutely no brakes (fluid is full, NO visible leaks now... thats why I am trying the bleed) but the popping is still present. Wasn't there before I messed with the wheel cylinders, but now it wont go away. I have absolutely NOBODY to help me otherwise I would have someone "tighten" the rear lugs so that I could actually see what was causing the pop. Any help, advice, hints, opinions are MUCH appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I was able to jack the passenger side rear up and duplicate the sound by putting the car in 1st and "tightening" a lug with a really long lug wrench. I crawled under the car and pulled it down with my leg and saw the problem.

Not sure what it is called, but the bar next to the driveshaft connecting the differential to the transmission tail was moving toward the ground at the transmission end. When I took my foot off the lug wrench, it flew up until it hit the car.

I can clearly see 1/2 of the bracket that held it in place. 1/2 rubber is still on it. The other half is nowhere to be found. Now all I gotta do is figure out the name of this bracket, buy a new one, put it in, and then check to see if bleeding the brakes worked or if I need a new master cylinder.

that bar is the torque arm. all you need to do is buy a new clam shell bushing/bracket and install it. it should solve your problem

Thanks, I just checked my repair manual for the name and was going to post it to help anyone having a similar problem but you beat me to the punch. The thing is that my local parts store referred me to the junkyard. Is it worth using a used one or should I upgrade with an aftermarket kit? What are the advantages and disadvantages of upgrading the torque arm. I am planning on having 4.10 gears installed in the near future and would hate to upgrade only to have to buy a new one when I upgrade the rear end.

Here's the bushing http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...requestid=4755

Who ever you talked to at the parts store is a moron.

Thanks a lot. I thought so also but was trying to be nice. Guess I don't have to worry about upgrading it for now. $20 to get me back on the road as before is well worth it.