Ok, so I know my struts are old and need to be replaced. The past couple days, when I would make a left turn, it would sound (as I'm coming out of the turn) as if I ran over something. The noise when you run over something and it shoots out from under the tire. This happened at the same spot though, which got me paying more attention. Today, when I turn left or right, it feels like the car is being held back a little bit. When I got to work and checked it out, I see that turning the wheel all the way to the left or right caused the tire to hit the wheel well in the back of the well. It seems that the car is lower and now rubbing/grabbing the wheel wells in turns. My question is can worn struts (pepboys specials at 5 years old) cause the car to do this? The ball joints and strut mounts are only 2 years old. The struts are the only older part up there. Any help is appreciated! I will replace the struts if that is it, but would like to know what to check out to make sure. Thanks all!

both tires hit or just one side?

If your springs are worn, then the car would sit lower... the struts / shocks only stop the spring from bouncing uncontrolled...

Raf

That's what I thought. The springs are original, but would they eventually let the car get low enough to do this? It is both tires that rub when I turn all the way left or right. If not the struts, what could it be? What should I check?

Thanks!

Check both... also the tires themselves... are they too wide ???

They may be ok, with stock height springs that work correctly...

Stock rubber bushings in A Arm can also be a problem....

Raf

The tires are the same size I have been using for 5 years. The struts are old enough to be replaced. And I have read many times that the coils will sag, but enough to make the tires rub? I'm just trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong problem. Could it be anything else? What can I look for?

That would be my edumacated guess... Everything else in the steering / suspension system pivots... the springs holds it up a certain distance, which with age, will sag... The struts / shocks only stop the bouncing, they don't hold the car at a certain height... the springs do...

Raf

That makes sense to me. I will take a look under the car just to make sure I don't see any obvious broken parts, and then see about changing the coils. I should probably do the shocks/struts at the same time, right? Or does that matter? (as far as cost)

Thank you for your help!

And any recommendations for coils and struts/shocks? I don't want to spend a fortune on the best, just something a little better than stock.

Moog / TRW are replacements... need vin / engine infor for right springs... they do sell cargo coil springs for the rear, which are progressive and nice if you have junk in your trunk... Have the shocks / sturts tested... no need to buy if they're still good...

Raf

I'm pretty certain the shocks/struts are done. The 3 sets before this one only lasted 2 years.

How would the moog stock replacements work with the KYB GR-2 struts/shocks?

The price is right for that setup.

Edit:

After looking at prices for moog, I see that they are just a bit cheaper than the Eibach Pro kit. The one that lowers 1" front and back. Even though those are lowered springs at 1", wouldn't that still be taller than the sagging springs that I have? I've read that here before, but would like to confirm.

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...140&perfCode=P

Eibach Prokit would be generally higher than worn sagging stock springs - at least until they settle - but I'm having a hard time believing your 1990 springs would be THAT bad already.

Maybe the isolators are gone? But you have to take the springs out to find out - so might as well replace them anyway. Before all that ...

HAVE YOU ROTATED TIRES RECENTLY? Do you have 15 or 16 inch rims?

If you have 16's, make sure the "fronts" are on the front, and the "rears" on the rear! The 16's have different backspacing between front and rear, the rims have "front" and "rear" casted into them on the backsides - the fronts have to be up front, and the rears have to be in the rear - swapping them they will rub.

I didn't think they would go this quick either. It was "ok" last week. I will check the isolators before the install, but will probably install everything anyways to make it fresh. What do the isolators look like, made of? I guess a google search might show me that. Do they break, wear out etc?

The tires are only a few months old. I can only rotate left to right anyways, because i have 7" in the front and 8" in the back. They are 15 inch wheels. And are all where they should be. Good point though!

So the isolators is where I will check out next. Any pics, or info on them would be appreciated!

I got all the parts and shipped it to the installer, but can't find isolators in stock anywhere. There are only 2 for the front right?

so what are isolaterS? are they in the rear as well, any pics

So everything is apart now and the pass side lower ball joint is shot as well.

how can u tell if a ball joint is bad? ive never done the front end

I'm going off of what my mechanic said, but it was easy to move around or it was loose or something.

It doesn't surprise me though. The bad ones were installed by pepboys when I needed it done 2 years ago in a big hurry. They didn't even grease them! Serves me right for going to PB.

I would check the strut mounts. If the struts are being replaced, they should see if there's a problem there.

The suspension is all done now. The clunk however is something in the differential. I am going to keep this thread for the suspension part of my problem, and post my differential problem in the appropriate section.

Clunk problem here...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...-rear-end.html (Clunk in rear end)

does anyone know a good performance spring that keeps the stick ride height?

1le or ws6 springs will keep at stock height but will be stiffer. Not a 100% sure on ws6 ones but 1le's for sure

Where do I get these 1LE springs?

My KARR came with the WS6 package