i got really bad wheel hop with my ride.bad to the point it shakes my fillings out of my teeth. i got all the parts,umi bars, spohn toruge,kybs, and lca brackets at its lowest settings. i need to break intot he 11's. i cant with the hop. i have the lcas set to the lowest point and reading some other posts i might set them back to level. does anyone know if setting them to the lowest point causes wheel hop? i thought the lcas were suppose to help that. anyways my lcas are welded on and not coming off. my question is does anyone know if i can bolt lakewood traction bars on with te lcas? the instructions seem to show the lakewood bars bolts to the outside of the bracket but with the new lca brackets welded on they are niow wider than stock and was wondering if the lakewoods would still fit. anyone?please i need them 11's before the white stuff hits.

just forget the lakewood traction/lift bars, they arent the best thing going

wheel hop can also be caused by shocks, wether they are the wrong ones for the app, set wrong if they are adjustable, or just shot.

PLay with the LCARB setings and see what happens, every car is different and the lowest seting is not always the best.

Make sure the pinion angle is set right as well, and what tires are you using?

Yep, lowest setting can also cause wheel hop.

Why?
You are shock loading your tires and they are bouncing back and hopping the car on launch.

With the LCAs at an extreme angle downward towards the rear, when the car bits off the line the axle thrusts forward cuasing the angled LCA's to lift the chassis. That chassis weight lifing suddenly will compress the tires so hard into the ground that the sidewalls compress and then release bouncing the car off the ground like a basketball.

ok so i should try level control arms?

shocks are new/not blown kyb g2s. tires were either eagle f1s gs or nittos 555r. either one mass wheel hop. nittos a tad better but not much. drive shaft angle "was suppose" to be set per spohn recommendations. i didnt do it. a shop did it while i had exhaust done and i had no reason to doubt his work.

ill try the new holes but i have to ask. if lowest setting can causre wheel hop wtf are these stupid *** brackets for then? somebody please tell me and help me before i break my dana 44

the brackets are designed to correct the geometry of the arms. Im most cases, they are supposed to be level. When you lower the car, the connection on the axle needs to ne lowered, hence the relobrackets. They can also be used to help traction, like your application, but other variables come into play at the same time. You have to try different settings and see what the car likes.

I would put the arms to the level position and see what happens.

Exactly as stated by 86TA, you should try the level position. The lower control arm reloc brackets are typically used to correct suspension geometry for lowered cars. There are many threads out there explaining this correction. However, on a stock ride height, that lowest hole is going to cause too extreme of an angle for the LCA.

Can you get ahold of some slicks to help you break into the 11s easier?

i read all them posts and my car is lowered 1" which is why i ended up with these stupid brackets. ill try going level. i dont want to run slicks for the 11's. i want 11's on street tires the way it sits in my driveway. im right there so to me slicks would be cheating.

1)Weight transfer alone loads the rear chassis and wants to squat it just due to dynsmic trnsfere of weight off the front springs and bulding that load momentarily on the rear springs under forward g's.

in other words, the more the lateral yank forward (or lower 60 foot times), the more this rear spring loading effect.

2) Consider static height if the arms WITH the driver in the car.

3) lateral dynamic position (meaning the LCA angle under thrust) of the arms should be parallel to the chassis to transfer tire bite to forward momentum to move the car down the track. The car nose lifting and carrying for a while is a good thing even when the parallel arms lift and carry with the angle of the chassis. As speed builds, gravity takes over and lowers it proportionately.

You will want to consider these two factors when setting LCA angle with the relocation bracket adjustments. The amount of power you are putting down being capable of 11's will cause #1 to be greater squat factor than a 13 sec car. So thus, with the same spring and shock rates as a 13 sec car, you will need to compenstae for a tad lower rear mount position on static angle. Maybe try about 1/2- 1" lower in the rear mount position statc. That should give you about parallel on dynamic launch to 60 ft. If not, Then I would up the spring rate slightly with 15lb spring rubbers and try again.(Video is your best friend) If the chassis is moving up and down alot, then you need to up your shock damper values. If squat and bouncing of chasis? then attention is needed in both shock and spring rate values.

TQarm lengths can vary this equation as well as chassis bias and center of gravity (cg).

Dean

Hello
He's Correct! But a few more suggestions would be the spring and shock combination ( I would suggest a adjustable) and as well as tire pressure (street tires are only going to perform to a certain extent I would look into a set of the Mickey Tompson street radials for a street-able and good performing tire). But depending on what the bushings are like the Lakewood bars I would look into replacing them as well. Like I said before these are just a few suggestion for you.
Thanks
Brad