Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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Here is my question upfront. What are the advantages of the different manufactures of relocated torque arms? I am wanting strictly a bolt in style, no welding install.
I know BMR's is full length and mimics the exact geometry of the stock one. The Spohn one is shorter but appears to mimick stock geometry as well (radial and longitudinal movement). The UMI is also shorter but appears to not mimick the radial movement of the factory torque arm.
So my question is, what are the advantages/disadvantages of the different styles. I can see right up front there is a significant price difference. With BMR, the cross member and torque will run around $520 for an adjustable torque arm. In addition to that price, i have to buy a new clamshell mount (which I haven't really priced but i am sure its a little bit). Spohn and UMI will cost about $400 for an adjustable torque arm and crossmember.
I tried running a search and thought I found a couple threads that addressed this. In the end, I read through 20 different threads and did not find the answer. On top of that, one thread was nothing more than a member flaming UMI.
Although money is not a huge issue, I don't want to waste it either.
This is my first 3 link/torque arm car, so trying to get up to speed.
As far as application - 475HP motor, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear, street toy, maybe track once a year (got out of that after last car).
Hello
I noticed that you are looking to upgrade your torque arm. And I just figured I would throw this out there for you that we do offer a few different styles. We offer a tunnel mounted version that mounted were your trans cross member mounts but it has a poly bushing the allows you to mount the arm in the tunnel area. And we also offer a full length arm as well. But with that amount of HP I would suggest getting the arm off of the rear of the trans either with a cross member relocation or a tunnel mounted. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer.
I cant really answer your question, but I installed the UMI cross member mounted unit and I was very pleased with how easy it was to set up and adjust. Definantly a noticeable increase in performance.
As for differances between the three. BMR IIRC you'll have to weld in a seperate crossmember for theirs to work. Unless you order the trans mounted one. Which Spohn also has. Usually the advantages of that are no ground clearace loss and a tad quiter than a x-member mounted one.
X memeber mounted torque arm such as the Spohn x-member mounted one I mentioned above, will give you a more direct feel of what your car is doing. It takes out some the play of the engine/trans mounts and will allow the TA to do its job. Planting the rear on acell and decell. Now that the the flex is gone from the stock one.
Me I've been running a Spohn rod ended one for 6 years nows and couldn't be happier. That was with a T56 and now a 700 R4 on it. I've prolly pput 60k on it by now and many track passes. So far so good and Im sure it will keep on taking the abuse..
Hello, our full length torque arm does mimick the factory geometry. You have two options with that arm. You can mount it back onto the transmission or attach it to our torque arm relocation crossmember. The benefit of doing that is you have additional adjustment holes on the crossmember to raise or lower the front of the torque arm. This allows you to adjust the way your suspension plants the tires. This set up is great for a daily driver, street/strip car or a corner carver. We also offer two different shorter torque arms. Our Trak pac, and Xtreme torque arms attach to a crossbar that welds in between your frame connectors. These torque arms hit the tires harder and are designed more for drag racing but can also be used on a street/strip car. If you have any questions please let me know.
Hello
Thanks for suggesting UMI Performance. Great to hear you are satisfied with the quality of the products. Like mentioned above anytime you get close to 450Hp I would highly suggest going with a relocation cross member. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
Hello
Thanks for suggesting UMI Performance. Great to hear you are satisfied with the quality of the products. Like mentioned above anytime you get close to 450Hp I would highly suggest going with a relocation cross member. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
Cool.....maybe UMI could get a Canadian distributor...say somewhere near Toronto.
There are a lot of guys here that like to go fast and have our cars handle.
Hello
We actually do have some vendors in Canada but unfortunately they do not stock any of our products. And they just have the parts drop shipped from us.
Sorry for any inconvenience.
Thanks
Brad
Ok so maby somone besids the companys that sell the product would post? I have a concurrent question. I made some passes with my Camaro and couldn't hook up. I was told that a toque arm would help alot. I have been looking at the Spohn Crosmember mounted arm, but a friend of mine (who doesn't specifically do Camaros) said that half the problem with the Fbody is the length of the torque arm. So Jegs sells a short torque arm and I was wondering has anyone ran one and how do they like it? I saw it mentioned on another forum that the short arm caused alot of wheel chatter. Is an ajustable stock length better? It actually costs less for the short one.
the shorter ones to my understanding are supposed to plant the tires harder or sumthing to that nature. the longer ones the chassis absorbs more of the shock.
here is my experience 13.0 at 104 on stock sized street tires with stock shocks and a dead hook. thats y i allways recomend spohn cause i know it works and the umi piece looks just like it
__________________ Its not what you buy its what you build
you cant go wrong with either one of them. pros and cons to all.i will say it sounds like you have a mostly street car and dont intent to abuse it or do gorilla launches. while your power is much higher than stock the spohn type might be a consideration for you although going back to orginal point is you dont sound like an abuser. i will say i have a spohn,i like except for one thing. the front eye,spherical joint is noisy!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yes it clunks and bangs around and transits vibrations way more than stock so if you dont want that and just want a quieter stock type of ride go with clam shell
you cant go wrong with either one of them. pros and cons to all.i will say it sounds like you have a mostly street car and dont intent to abuse it or do gorilla launches. while your power is much higher than stock the spohn type might be a consideration for you although going back to orginal point is you dont sound like an abuser. i will say i have a spohn,i like except for one thing. the front eye,spherical joint is noisy!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yes it clunks and bangs around and transits vibrations way more than stock so if you dont want that and just want a quieter stock type of ride go with clam shell
Do you have the Spherical rod end or the del-sphere? Acording to spohn the del-sphere eliminates the noise.
ive got a polly bushing on my spohn arm and i guess you could say it makes a lot of noise. i just figured a lot of it was my trans shift likes a beast and idle and tightens up the slack in the locker for a jolt
__________________ Its not what you buy its what you build
i have the spherical end and its loud... clank clank clank.....
Hello
With our adjustable torque arms they feature poly bushings on the cross member. And the only rod ends that are on the arm are were they mount to the bracket. The reason why you are hearing the clank clank is because that is the weight transferring.
Thanks Again
Brad
most important thing to do is get away from the trany mounted arm. rod end bars are more for pure performance and are noisy , thats the price you pay for the best performance. the arms with poly bushings are suited better for a street car , quiet but with a slight amount of give. sounds like for your interest you probably will want the polly bushing instead of the rod end style. main thing is to get away from the trans mounted arm. all the above venders have good torque arms to offer