engongam

Thanks I'll check that too...

engongam

The LCA brackets are welded in the pictures above but in the pictures that I've sent you were not welded. The angle is much more acceptable in the above pictures.

Can you tell me the rear fender height that I should reach so that I can drop or raise the car to get the perfect rear ride height.

Panhard bar relocation bracket of jegster's are not working, I tried to install them but the holes does not match, there is a huge difference.

About the weigh jacks, does the 1" plate enough for 5.5" dia springs? You can see that weigh jacks are a litte bit off, at least ıf there will be some shaking it will slide down.

One more thing, Is there any way to weld the jacks with out taking out the k member and install the extra plate too?

Thanks for the oilpan compliment=) I waited enough for that install=)

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i had the same problem with the jegs panhard bracket that i bought, i had to trim the bracket a bit to get it to fit, but the holes were pretty good. They look to be plasma cut holes, not drilled, so they are a bit sloppy.

you can weld the plates in without removing the k-member, but getting up in there, upside down and welding is a little tricky, and since you have the spohn k member, you have powerdercoating to remove. Depending on how its made, maybe you can bolt the plate in with 4 bolts, just need to drill holes in the plate and the k-member pocket?

the spring plate does look a little small for the spring, but it is listed on the site for use with 5.5" springs, do IDK. If you were to weld tabs onto the plate to center the spring, that would help keep them on the plate.

engongam

Welding upside down is not a problem, a firend of mine is a real good welder but the problem is his shop is very busy, we might need to arrange a night shift to do my job.

I dont think I will use bolts for weigh jacks, I might use both bolts and weld. Removing the coat should be difficult since there wont be enough room for tools to work. But the thing that I cannot imagine in my mind is how welding the uppar plate of the jack will help the lower plate to slide? threaded bolt is connected with a ball joint. I think it will still slide... I cannot be sure...

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

what i was talking about was welding little tabs to the plate that sits on the spring, to locate it and keep the springs centered on the plate so it doesnt pop off. I suppose you could weld the tabs to the outside of the plate and bend them down a bit to secure the springs as well.

engongam

oo, I see now, yes, that's a thing that I would probably do... Thanks...

engongam

This is the nicest picture of the LCA angle, I think, as you said Dean, I need to get the lca to the upper hole to be more parallel to the ground. Or should I?, It might be a little bit higher than the car side??

Guest

I would raise the rear mount holes one hole at least. Get the rear as high as youy can without wheel hop on low speed acceleration. It maay still hop on a drasg race type standing start, but we are more concerned with road course handling, not drag race launch. Getting this angle correct is very important to create roll induced understeer. This is where the geometry of the rear LCA's will create the rear axle to steer into the corner when the chassis is in dynamic motion in roll. The outside LCA (outside -meaning the right LCA in a left corner, or the left LCA in a right corner) needs to shorten the distance between the mounts when the chassis squats that side in lateral roll thus pulling the axle forward on that outside of the car. The inside you need geometrically as long as possible- preferably parallel to the ground so the mounts are as far apart as possible......thus the rear axle steers in roll...or as we call it- "roll induced understeer". This keeps the rear tire slip angle matching closer to the front tire slip angle and keeps heat in the tires proportioned under hard track conditions.

...in other words, it will help make your tires last longer compared to the other competitors. Every little advantage helps.

Now that you understand roll understeer, you can determine the chassis rake (you asked about preferable rear ride height) based on how this geometry and body roll comes into play. Get the car low for best lowered center of gravity without compromising suspension geometry. The lower the better AS LONG AS THE GEOMETRY STAYS INTACT. Shock travel indicators will let you know during corner testing how much the LCAS are changing geometry trough lateral set, Just measure the shock travel with o-ring indicators on the shock shafts and you will see where the LCA angles are in dynamic set.

Phil ( <86ta> ) is trustworthy in his advise, I appreciate his imput and will sponsor his suggestions. T%hank you Phil, I like your suggestions on the weld tabs as well as the idea for Berk to bolt the plates to the Spohn K-member. Bolted under there, it would not go anywhere.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

only issue im thinking of with bolting the plate in is that i believe the spohn k-member has a hump ( piece of round tubing) for the upper spring locator, similar to the spring side of the weight jack bolt posted. I dont think the plate will sit flat on anything you can bolt to. For that matter, it may make welding even more tricky because of how its all going to sit together.

just thinking out loud here

engongam

Hello again,

I recieved all my stuff, now I am into installation but I have some questions, First of all, as you can see I have the spohn K member, It has the stock spring locators at top, My first question to you is, should I weld the weigh jacks dirctly on those red circles or should I first trim it down to O height?

My second question is, in which way should I weld the weigh jack plate? The bump looking up or down?

My third question is, How will it be possible to lower the car when there is the car's frame on the way while the weigh jacks bolt going upward?

I hope I get a fast answer I will make a long distance road with the on monday (I hope I finish all those stuff, even I am having some engine problem, I am changing the lifters)

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i thought the original plan was to cut a hole in the frame intot he engine compartment for the bolt to go through. so you can adjust it from under the hood.

if you cut the circle extension off the k-member, it will allow the car to be as low as possible, if needed. Might want to consider it.

if there is no grease fitting on the nut plate, i would put the nut on top. keep that in mind if you trim the circle parts, dont take off too much or the nut will hit the body

engongam

Yes, I will do the drilling process, I might drill 2 other holes to keep the plate in place while welding it, (2 to the plate too)

I am not sure If the trimming process is logical since the k member is chrome moly, It might be very hard to trim... Am I right? The reason about trimming down the k member is because of having an easier process while welding the plaete but If the effort that I am going to put to trimming is much more than welging as it is, than I won't do it=)

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

wont be much harder to cut, if any , that regular steel.

however, to do it right, the plates need to be welded with the correct gas and wire for the mildsteel/chromoly connection. could be brittle if you use regular wire and argon/co2.

does the spring perch on the k-member sit right on the body? can you bolt everything together in place of welding? just a though.

engongam

If I do the bolting right, than yes=) I will make the holes tomorrow and keep the stuff in place... Maybe just a few centre would be enough... First I have to arrange the details for bolting and than the welding...

Guest

This is exactly my same answer. Thank you Phil, I fully agree.

Guest

Hi Berk, THis is what I was refering to in earlier posts about having the room through the subframe to the top side and not hitting the exhaust headers with the jack bolt.

I took your picture for reference. Look at the small purple dot. That is the center of the Spohn spring plate positioned under the subframe. FIRST- drill a SMALL pilot hole up through to the top of the subframe into the engine bay being very careful not to hit anything up on the top side. THis is a location hole for checking where it pops through up on the top side. Next, once you have established you have adequate clearance for this to work (This is why I asked you to try this before you purchased the parts, but I think from the pictures you showed me of the engine bay at the time you should be fine with enough distance from the headers for this jack bolt to work up through the top of the frame rail for adjustment.) Once the pilot hole is drilled, now use a hole saw and cut larger diameter holes with enough clearance for the jack bolt to clear going up through to the top side. On the bottm side, you may want a slightly larger hole in case the jack plate nut hits the frame.(Green circle).

Dean

ps- the jack plate is spring loaded against the spohn kmember plate so welding here is not real critical, it merely needs to just hold in position soi it does not move side to side of fall out when suspension is unloaded.

engongam

Hello again,

I installed all the goodies and they are incredible, I could not drive the car since I am changing my lifters but when I dropped the car I saw that there is very little amount of flexin=) and the ride height is stuning... In those photos there is sitll room to lower the car (It is not the actual ride height I just lowered it to take some pictures)

What's next Dean=) Bump Steer?

engongam

more...

Guest

Berk- You are the man!!!

Next we need to get you to the exact ride heights you want. We will need to start setting articulation angles off of those ride heights, then we go to alignment camber/caster, and then finally we go to bumpsteer later once we get the caster footprints and the x-weights all in sequence first, then we set toe and stand on the nose of the car to see if it changes through articulation- if it does later, we will deal with bumpsteer then.

Lets start going through the Ultimate suspension sticky guidelines as for getting the car to optimum articulation angles with the front A-arms and the rear LCA's after you get the car adjusted to the desired ride height in the rear based on the front "optimum height".

"Optimum height"? This is where we previously talked about camber curve and potential camber gain with A-arm articulation starting and finishing angle based on suspension travel. How much will the suspension travel we ask? we will ultimately have to do track teting to find this out but for starters we need to just make an estimated guess and figure lets just try and get the outer ball joint 'center pivot" start stagnant at 1" lower than the A-arm bushing bolt center front mounts. Then lets check ride height and tire clearance to see if we have enough room for about 2" travel into compression without hitting the tires onto the fenders or bumpstops.

Then, lets try and get the rear ride hieght comporable to the front - lets say about 1" higher fender lip from ground up in the rear than the front fender lips. then lets set the rear LCA's to parallel to the ground or close to that favoring the rears slightly down if any with YOU in the drivers seat + helmet and gear and about a half load of fuel.

Then we are going to pre set alignment specs close to get the footprints of the tires close enough to finished desired spec so as not to be cantered enough to put unwanted x-weight into the car so we can right now scale the car and get the x-weights set perfect if you can get it to scales- if not I will help you try and get this close through other methods of jacking the car and measuring fender heights (Not the most accurate, but best if our only choice without scales.)

After all that- then we permenatly set the alignment to final exact tolaerances and lastly go to toe settings and bump (check bumpsteer) the car. Make sure all your tires are set to pressures (If you do not have good charts and know what PSI (or BAR) you think you might need then give me the tire brand and sizes again and I will research it for you.

Keep in mind your caster will change as you change ride height- this is why I need you to pick a height based on "Optimum height" and try and stick with it always for future baseline chassis setup. If we laster determine through track testing that we can go lower then we will based on travel indicators- or we might even have to raise it a little- testing will tell. Testing will also tell where we need to go in chassis balance front to rear with panhard adjustment through steady state corner testing. We need to see how that big block will roll with these ride heights and spring rates resisting chassis leverage.

IMPORTANT- besides keeping desired tire pressures when setting ride heoght and scaling the car, MAKE SURE YOU ROLL THE CAR BACK AND FORTH AT LEAST 15 feet TO SETTLE THE CHASSIS WITH YOU IN THE DRIVERS SEAT!!! before you check ride heights or scale readings. Don't just dial the weight jackers with the car sitting still and take readings without rolling the car to settle it.

Lets ge ready to go racin"

Dean

Guest

Also Berk, Since you do not have adjustable endlinks on your swaybars, I want you to keep the swaybars hooked up normal when you scale the car. we have no way to neutralize your bars side to side with standard endlinks.

If we were to unhook the swaybars to scale the car, then hook them back up afterwards it will most likely put unwanted x-weight into the chassis so leave them hooked up.

On the rear swaybar mounts (the center axle mounts, not the endlinks) I want you to position the mounts as close to the differential but equal distance from centerline on each side. If we need more bar later for balance, we will spread them later if needed. If we need less we will lower the panhard and I will give instructions on mount spread later based on testing.

engongam

Thanks Dean, my school is over and finally I can really work on the car=) I am not that slow actually=)

Before telling you what I understood so far, let me ask you a few question, to get the front of the car lower or higher, should I jack the car or should I turn the jack while the car is on its weight?

If I do it on the weight, let me tell you the things that I understoof for front height adjustment. First I reference a arms ball joint, and than ı lower/or raise the car until there is a 1" level difference for a arms, I mean a arms studs and a arms ball joint(lowest point) should have a 1" difference in terms of height. Am I right?

And than I set the rear fender height 1" higher than the front fender height?

But while doing those stuff, Ineed to move the car back and forth to read good outputs?

And than I go to the allignment shop and do the steerring and camber caster adjustments but What camber and caster reading do we prefer? -3 is ok I gues but I do not know about the caster rate? And also I have the camber adjusting bolts that you use on the shock's upper stud but I did not know how to install the washer, Do you have any idea?

Thanks a lot...

I hope I understood right...

Guest

You do not need to lift the car off the ground each time you turn the weight jackers, but i would recommend you at least take some chassis weight off the threads before turning them (jack it up a little).

Not lowest point of ball joint- you need to visualise the imaginary "center" of the ball joint pivot. That imaginary center is what needs to be about 1" lower than the ear bolt.

Camber- I would start with -2* to -3* range. for racing rubber
Caster- try and get 5* positive on both sides. Running lots of negative camber you do not want lots of caster also becase the combined total when you turn the wheels can cause bumpsteer. Keep the caster at most 5* and again keep it even on both sides.

Toe- just go to Zero for now. I personally do not llike alot of toe out- especially at speed on a road course. I personally if it were my car perfer about zero to 1/16th in range.

Just try and get them close by yourself if you can (try not to spend money on an alignment yet- we will do this later after we scale the car and make final height adjustments while doing that scaling.

Guest

call me anytime in the next hour if you would perfer to talk, I will be up. not going to bed for a few hours but I am heading to the gym in about an hour.

engongam

Ok, It's 7.34 am, I will get going to the garaje in a few hours and d the ride height adjustment and prepera my intake manifold for close up=)

As for the scales, I need the car running, which (hopefully) wil be in 2 days. And than I can go out and look for a scale but Dean, I really do not think anyone would let me for scaling my car. We do not have sops who does this kind of stuff. I know a couple of rally garages who have scale, I will ask them to use theirs but as I said, I really do not think so=)

I am asking for my knowlage, we are not lowering the car to its maximum lower position because we do not want to loose the a arm angle right?

Guest

Let me give you an example why we need to just preliminarily adjust the alignment for scaling-

Lets say you have the LF tire footprint at 0* camber and the RF at -4* and you scale the car. You then later set them both at -2.5* the x-weights will decrease on the wheel that was -4 and increase on the wheel that was zero because the RF was initially setting on the raised angled inside edge of the tire footprint. This is why you need to just at least get the cambers close by eyeballing them with a level vertical agains the tire sidewalls or bbetter yet against the rim edges. Just try to get both sides close to even with the bubbles of the level touching one of the side centerlines on the level gauge. That will give you pribably about -1 to -2* range which as long as both sides are even it will be close enogh for scaling purposes.

Guest

9:45pm here right now as I post this. . Ok to call me in about 9hours also if needed. that will be about 7am here friday morning. I will be groggy, but I will do my best if needed (laughing)

YES, that is absolutely correct on the arm angle!

No wrry if no scales, we will do it with a center jack and wheel and fender lip heights off the ground in teeter totter balance. You will need the jack with the smallest jack surface so as to allow the car to teeter under the differential and the front k-member each separately. We will do a little trial and error here to see how we end up on all four fender lip heights when we are done.

engongam

Thanks a lot Dean, I do not think I would have issues, I really understand the things that I have to do=) I will probaby call you when I get on track=) I will take some pictures and show you the status of the car when everything is in the range that we want.

Again thanks a lot...

Guest

Berk, please understand that bolting on all the parts is just half the battle, We are now starting the most important part of getting your car track worthy by knowing and using the adjustments we have to or best advantage. This is the critical part and please to not rush to judgement. Please keep me very closely detailed on the things I ask otherwise I will have no idea where the cars articulation setting are and weill not be able to read what is happening to the car when you finally get it onto the track. again, this is the most important stage on WHERE we set all the parts you have installed.

engongam

I am having serious engine problems, I have to delay the process a little bit.. I just wanted to let you know people...

Norm Peterson

Didn't see this until today. How's progress coming?

If the endlink bolts are long enough - I think they usually are - you could either shim one of the sleeves or cut a new sleeve from tubing for each bar to make up the correct length. Of course, that means that you have to establish a flat setup area (clear tubing, colored water, something to measure with, something to shim with).

I think you could then disconnect the bars for cornerweighting.


Norm

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

This thread is amazing and FULL of information! I wonder what happened with the OP's car?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I wonder how he got the steering arm/tie rod to fit those gorgeous wheels (9.5"?). Last couple of pics in post 67 seem conflicting to me. I would be thrilled to know that 275X45X18's will fit with reg drop spindles.

engongam

It's good to hear from you all... The car is just still waiting. I got a new job and it is killing me, I also started to work on our 79 VW Minivan. We thought tha painting it would be a good thing to do but it was A HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK. I just finished the car and did a road trip with 8 friends. here is the whole story... http://buyukpostanenerede.tumblr.com/ also with the progress videos but is all in Turkish=(
It is our second road trip. Photos of the first one is on the page but we could not post the new photos yet but 3 of them...

Anyhow, trans am is still waiting for engine repair work which need a lot of money and time. Hopefully, this new job that I get in is letting me earn enough money to build the engine again... A few months later, 502 will get back in to the engine bay, right now I am using it with the old slow 305...

But since there is been a talk, let me ask some questions, I am current using TKO 600 with racing gear 0.86 5th gear ratio. I am not happy with it. 4th and 5th is way too different than each other. I need to bring the ratios closer or put a new 6th gear transmission... Any suggestions?...

by the way, I am extremely happy about the car's handling... It is a MONSTER. Love it... Better than my other car bmw m z3 which also have racing springs and bilstein nurburgring edition shocks...

SlickTrackGod

Hi Berk- Ive had my share in life the last few years also- I feel your pain. Wich you the best and when things get going again then feel free to call me anytime and we can try to tae back up where we left off.

Dean

engongam

Hellooo Dean.... Its very comforting to hear you again. I and transam feels safe and grippy with you...

I also feel sad about the holds on the car but I havr nothing to do but wait and earn money... I already spent enough but enough is never enough

I have changed my e mail engongam@gmail.com is the one that i use now... Can you please send me an rmail so that i can finally save you to contacts... You really helpes me a lot ... Part of the car belongs to you you gave me the reciept and i cooked it...

Thank you again for everything and the future!

.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Dean –
Berk is running 245 fr and 275 r – I deduce that is 18X8 and 18X9.5
The purist is me wants to stay with equal contact patch on all fours. We are both width limited by the drop spindles in front. Could you please comment on differing widths?

The y-body crowd can get away with staggered fitments – lighter weight and better distribution. It seems to be gaining popularity on other platforms.

Is 245 vs 275 a significant difference? – what is a significant difference? Street vs track? BBC (Berk’s Big Block is putting a lot of weight up front) vs LSX vs V6?
This would not affect how one scales a car, right? – weight is weight. How important is Berk’s rear RC now that he has dropped the front and that BBC up front vs SBC/LSX cars?

Thanks for any replies,
Brian

engongam

Dean will expleain better but let me tell you what I experienced.

First I had the stock height stifffer moog sprins with Tokiko's. With 305 it was fair and good enough but when I put the 502 in, front and rear ride height got messed up. There was a huge difference. Which cause me rear wheel hop on heavy brakes downhill. First we changed the rear springs with QA1 double adjustable coil overs whick gave an a very wide range of ride height @rear. We wanted to use stock McPherson setup @front. We used 900ft/lb Eibach Springs with the drop spindles, weighjacks and Koni yellows. (This was a magnificant change in the car)

I created a huge amount of noise dive. It was stunning. One time I had made a GT3 owner sit to my next and gave him a feel about the noise dive in the curves and he was pretty shocked. It was very stable and determined. on the exit things were a bit messy. I needed to do some adjustments. The tire was just hitting the fender, I raised it 5mms or so. The very crucial and; still could not made it right; was the rebound and compression adjustments on the shocks. Still needes to be improved.

About the tire size, Dean explained to me what happenes if the front tires are wider and viceversa. the key issue I belive is to put the 4 tires in one line no matter what the tire size is. It won't be able to do unless you have a different size diff with different tire sizes. But with shorter diffs (in terms of horizontal physical size, the axel's tubes lets say). This setup I have suits to my driving style which lets me to get in to corner sharp and lets me have a bit oversteer on the exit. I never had traction problems on the track, (it was summer, it was hot, I double checked the tire pressure and most importantly tires were new and Pirelli pzero's which I would never buy for other reasons-I would go with continentals)

I had the old 305 that day. I was not able to try this setup with the 502 but as far as I can feel. with w bit higher ride height up front an lower @ back It should handle just as the SBC. I am also planning to replace the doors and hood and front fenders with the fiberglass one but there is a huge amount of shipping price to Turkey. But someday, definetly will do it. Replacing the windows with the plekxi is another thing I have in mind. The rear window is like a 100kg...

What kind of driving feel you like to create Brian?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

My set-up is basically the same as yours (#850 fr)- I have single adj QA1's (#200 r) with the Spohn coil-over kit. I figured why spend the $$ on DA QA1, when I'll swap to a better shock later.
Like you, I like to go into corner tight w/slight oversteer coming out. Road America is a big, sweeping, fast track (4 mile lap). My instructors did not want me to trail brake, but on the two tightest corners, I felt it was needed. Turn 5 is downhill from a big straightaway, so getting the back to come around and set is crucial. Like you, I'm struggling to figure out the rear "feel." Going through carousel turn, I always felt like the back wanted to come around, but my instructor said it was fine (pic in sig is going through that carousel turn). You can see that the outside is loaded, but not a whole lot of lean I'm on factory 16X8 and Firestone Wide Ovals.
This was with the tired L98, now have swapped in the LS2 and added BMR trak pak (crossbar attach to SFC, not trans mount). I experienced a decent amount of vibration down the straight with the stock TA. Good to hear you've never had rear grip concerns! That's why I was wondering about larger width in rear coupled with maybe a slight lowering of PHB could offset that 502, and maybe help me as well. I also thought that staggered set-ups are better on lighter, more balanced cars (F1, Indy, y-body); so I was interested in your thought process (not that 245/275 is major).
With my limited budget, I will purchase larger rims in order to get better selection of street rubber (95% of car's use). Will probably use 16X8's for R rubber so I'll still have equal footprint, there - mainly a cost consideration, and I'll run maybe 3 track day sessions/yr. Car is in body/paint mode, now. I really need to stop spending $$, and start enjoying!
It is interesting to hear your iterations, even w/BBC! Are you running the stock sway bars? I'm also thinking my stock 24 might be too much, but I'll have to start over with the LSX and TA now installed.
I've heard Istanbul is beautiful! I had scheduled a museum stop there en route to Israel in '07, but the Lebanon conflict derailed the trip. It's in the bucket list!

Brian

engongam

you can see the passenger tire is just staying like it should be in a corner. all the rubber in on the floor and GRIIPP=) and the other tire is waiting for straight to get the regular camber angle.




This is the normal track ride height; unloaded. there is still plenty of ground clearance


this is a curve that you come in top speed brake hard and turn left. Huge amount of load and you can see the car is very stable and balanced. A bit touch to the curbs pushing real hard.


I am about to pin the john cooper to the wall=) I am an arrow and he is the target


slow but sharp right handed. Almost the winders touches to grounds

This was a 2 day track day. I drove the car 500km to track and pushed it to the limit for 2 days. At night I drove it in the city's heavy traffic (real traffic=)) and had a beer and slept and on the other day continued and tested differnt ride heights and shock setups for the whole day. And than I raised the car, got my girlfriend and drove 500km's back to Istanbul without having a fuse problem even... Only on the last 40km on the wayback, ı lost my muffler Right now I am running no muffer but only pipes... I liked it

Norm Peterson

Can't see your sig picture.


Staggered setups are done not because those cars are better balanced; it's the other way around (to make them better balanced). On a "square" tire&wheel setup they'd be unbalanced (and oversteerish). I'd specifically add the current ZL1 and Ford's GT500 to your list.

The main performance reason for running a staggered tire or tire&wheel setup is because of having too much power (torque to the wheels, actually) for a "square" tire&wheel setup. A little more rear tire provides a little more margin against power-on oversteer, this being a consequence of slightly more understeer all else equal. You might also run a staggered setup because the suspension tuning was made "looser", but in this case it's more of a crutch to get a little margin against the average driver looping his car.


Norm

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Aahhh...I see now. Really helps with Berk's Big Block torque!

Great Pics, Berk

SlickTrackGod

Hi guys- Berk, I'll get you my current info in private.

Hi Brian and Norm also (My utmost respect to Norm as always- he has always been positive wealth of info also).

On rear tire. if the rear track width is more that the front tire track width, the car will tighten under both braking and corner exit. The wider track width will stablize the cars weigfht transfer to the outside tires and keep the weight more spread accross both sides of the car on that axle.

Because the rear tire is sitting outside of the front tire in straight line tracking---AND THEN you are under hard braking and corner entrance, the car will tighten and not turn as easily because the outer tire grip in the rear is pulling the inner tire track of the front into line with it and holding it from rotation diretion side to side (kind of a anti-yaw effect.)

On that note- I had "Vetruck" out playing around on a local autox track this weekend and it happens to have wider rear tires than fronts, but I have the outer edges in straight line parallel track widths. The wider rear tires help reduce being loose off the corner, but having them in track fron to rear help me get this 5000lb longbed beast to rotate into a corner still while keeping it tigher coming off the corner.

Listen to the commetator after my run- very rare someone shows up out of the blue and runs a new vehicle the track stwards are not aware of...and... runs it well...on street tires also when most there are on racing rubber. As mentioned above, I am also on Pirelli P-zero Rosso's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oG6d...ature=youtu.be

SlickTrackGod

also on the same note- but to simplify this subject:

Go karts use different width axles to balance their handling. If a kart is loose in and loose out, they go to a wider axle (keeping tire size the same, just changing the track between the front and rear of the kart) and that tightens them in and off.

Shorter rear axle does the opposite.

AM91Camaro_RS

funny that I hadn't thought about it this way since I've raced karts for years. Very true though. Its amazing what 3/8" will do on a kart in this regard!

engongam

http://vimeo.com/23597957 I totally forgot about this video. It's the whole trackday's video which is produced by a friend of mine and the owner of the GT3.

SlickTrackGod

I want to post up a little story and share it with all about what a small world it is. As many of you know, I have had personal friendships and help with many people I have met on these boards over the years. I have called many on the telephone numerous times over the years,others a few times, and lots of messaging to help teach people. Berk is one of those. What makes he and a few others unique is he lives half way around the world from me in Turkey- yes as in like Istanbul, Turkey.

Berk has come to America local to me to attend college and further his education, through that, we we're actually able to meet for the first time in person last weekend.

Then this weekend he had the pleasure to be a crew member on our NASCAR race team and apply some of the stuff I have taught him over the years. It is my honor to finally meet someone I have had numerous telephone conversations with over the last 5 years. He will be living fairly near to me over the next two years. He and I have a dream and a plan to finish building this car of his and sort it out when he finally goes home...he had done quite a ground up race car build with all fiberglass and lexan. The car is now fully caged . he wanted to bring it here but I convinced him with local laws it would be a real difficult thing to do just to have to ship it here and then back in two year+ storage here for a car he could not park or drive on California streets.

The Dream is to one day fly over the Germany and meet with him and we want to blast his RamJet502 TransAm car around Nurburgring. I will be his navigator.



Here is a shot of the two of us yesterday and here's to a long friendship of two guys half a world apart.