Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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Hi I bought mine from Carparts.com.Autozone wanted $80 a piece.I got 2 for about $80 from Carparts.Got em fast.Most stores csrry them ,but they will milk you,as you can see.
Hey, Spohn is selling new manufactured mounts for F body; chrome, moly spherical bearings, 1" taller, adds 1/4" camber, teflon self lubricating race; $275.00 a pair, (quantity 1 = 1 pair), plus shipping. I get a "knocking" sound, believe bearing is problem, and will consider Spohn.net offer, after I discuss characteristics with my mechanic/adviser. GM 82-88 p/n 14106736, RH; p/n 14106735, LH. Makes sense to replace both sides, no?
Last edited by Oldies; 08-02-2009 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: correct last digit to distinguish RH, LH sides
Hi, Thanks; oops!, didn't notice the age of thread, (weak nvidia card); have replaced centerlink and ball-joints, bushings for other symptoms; soft, knocking or tapping sound, occurs regularly, 89 Z, 5.7 L; I'll certaily check out Hotpart, too. Thanks for the tip; could be anything, sheet metal weld, etc. Also have wear to outside of RH tire, same side where noise seems to originate. Want to correct before alignment, have new Bilstein's n luv 'em. Might try a used mount to see if noise abates. I hate to buy with uncertainty.....Appreciate your response. S.F., CA
There were, at one point anyway, two different bearings plates: 82-86 and 87-92. Currently the after market only makes plates for the 87-92, so if you have the earlier model, you'll need the newer retainers. My discovery/experience below with pics:
Thanks; I'll know why to be careful if same prob occurs on my 85 Z28!..(my 82-88 GM parts manual distinguishes mounts from 82-86, opposed to 87 0n. Don't know if mounts will cure the "knocking" but highly probable - Spohn explains function pretty well; "There's more here than meets the eye, Fibber McGee."
Last edited by Oldies; 08-02-2009 at 04:35 PM.
Reason: capitalize name
i stripped the upper strut thing (dont know what its called) any tips to help remove the nut. ive tried vise grips and soaked forever in pb blaster, its retarded. im replacing struts and came across this headache. im probably just going to get a new upper mount. 70 bucks. oh well.
hey, Don't be alarmed; on my '89 IROC, there is a plate below the wheel well, (below the strut tower); the plate is configured to use the same locations for the attaching screws and nuts; if you stripped a pair, just look underneath, or feel with your hands, and you'll find....let me go check the car if I'm not right....but, if we're talking about the screws that secure the alignment setting by determining the relative position of the strut stem in the tower.. you'll find a nut below to hold with a box wrench while forcing the stripped nut off the threads on top....I'll check while you digest this
Hey, If you've stripped the NUT that fastens the STRUT stem to the plate gear, (the plate has an inner bearing and thick rubber bushung assembled so the strut can "move" within a specific axis without disturbing the alignment setting), this can be removed, - the NUT - I've always had to resort to VISE grips, liquid wrench and an a box, offset box or deep offset box wrench....they don't want to come off, but aren't that highly torqued, either...takes some patience, and tightest grip you can get with the VISE grip...make sure the jaws are tight and the handle held on the horizontal plane, not straight up....hmmm...any luck? OR a dremel tool with a stainless cutting WHEEL will(?) cut the nut, or a mini hack saw while gripping the stem with the vise grips; don't cut yourself, its easy to slip!
ya, its the top of the strut made for removing the nut that secures the strut to the mount. the nut that holds the strut to the strut mount is seized. and the strut top is stripped. i already took the strut mount w/strut still attached out. ive tried the vise grips as hard as i can, the vise grips just turn while stripping more. ive tried using a nutsplitter, i could even get it in there. waste of cash there. i want to try a hack saw but isnt the rod hollow and pressured with gas? i dont think i can fit a blade in between the nut and mount. yep. pretty much just a junk mount. i found a mount for 43 bucks with shipping, its going to take over a week if i order it. I would like to use a dremel, but its useless againts grade 10 nut. thanks anyways
lol Are you gripping the NUT or the top of the STEM with the VISE grips? You've got to hold the nut with a box or offset box, (13/16"?), and bring the two handles together about 15 degrees apart to squeeze them together with BOTH hands and break the bind - if stem has solid metal left, make the vise grip as tight as possible and still be able to lock it ..keep wrench and grips on same plane...goog luck!
im gripping the upper stem with vicegrips, and the nut with 13/16 with the closed end of the wrench. im going to go get a metal cutting wheel tool and try that. just need the nut off and im back in business.
Last edited by transam85dudeman; 09-12-2009 at 06:25 PM.
The problem can be the length of the wrench - the longer wrenches give graeter leverage - I hate it when that happens -good luck! Those cheap GM/acdelco stems that require those shock absorber sockets...Bilstein's have inverted allen (female) stems; just use an allen socket to grip stem; still lucky if the nut comes loose!
that reminds me; I've used a small pipe wrench on occasion to grip the stem - very effective; better than vise grips - always grip with handle turning down away from the head so the movable jaw pinches - and tighten the wheel
I'm serious - a very small pipe wrench on the STEM above the nut can really hold it - if you have the technique - have somebody hold the wrench in position and wack it with a 32 oz ball peen - fast and hard - if your wrench won't do by hand; constant maximum pressure works best; just coordinate to keep the jaws grip; use a small pipe wrench, like 6-8 " - they don't slip used properly: sorry I'm not there; never failed to get one off yet!
good info guys thanks for everything, i ended up just ruining it with a grinder. its all hackd up now useless. its all junk, im going to order a new mount. oh well. stupid mounts
I'm serious - a very small pipe wrench on the STEM above the nut can really hold it - if you have the technique - have somebody hold the wrench in position and wack it with a 32 oz ball peen - fast and hard - if your wrench won't do by hand; constant maximum pressure works best; just coordinate to keep the jaws grip; use a small pipe wrench, like 6-8 " - they don't slip used properly: sorry I'm not there; never failed to get one off yet!
i kept thinking about that...i went ahead an replaced the strut mount i ruined. geez. BUT i took your advice for the second one. my arm muscle aches, but i got the nut off the other-side strut. i really workd too. i didnt think i could do it. Before i even started i soaked the upper nut for 5 hours with pb blaster. put a monkey wrench on it with the closed box 13/16 wrench. nothing. tried again, nothing. then your inspirational words came to mind "never failed to get one off yet" i was like, " if that dude can do it, i should be able to do it better." tried again nothing. but again, it was all out or nothing, i tried again, and it broke loose finally. must of been torqued beyond 200 ft#. im big 6'5 290#s. but yep, thanks. my plan b was to take it to a shop. i learned the hard way ruining a mount, an expensive lesson. but the damn nut is off, and im glad. well thanks to everybody of coarse. im going to torque to specs so this situation doesn't happen again. damn airtools, thats cheating to a homemech. like myself. against my vice principles.lol
Congrats! Many hands, (and minds), make light work. Nice to have as many willing to contribute on the site. One small tip: what goes on might, (and ususally does) have to come off. Shocks and struts don't require excessive torque. (does anything?). I've found the nuts on struts/shocks just need to be cinched - and you can tell, if the stem is securely gripped at the top, (I love the little pipe wrench because of the ridiculous stem shape which requires the special socket otherwise), the box wrench cinches that nut when the nut just doesn't want to turn any more - it doesn't require any excessive force to be secure. We don't want them to stay on for eternity, just not come off when we're driving!
