Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
#2
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Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
Springs
Shocks (rear)
Struts (front)
Wonderbar
Sway Bar (front and rear)
I would suggest just saying screw it and going aftermarket with the first four of those, and do the best you can. The money it would take to build an IROC copy would be barely less than a kitted out aftermarket setup that would be much better. Not to knock IROC suspension cars by any means, just saying that to piece it together will cost you quite a bit. Plus IROC shocks/struts/springs are gonna be old by now.
Im a big fan of junkyard sway bars though. I got my 34mm IROC front bar for $8. Some of the RS's had the big sway bar standard up front. It will eitehr be like 29 or 31 mm or something like that, or it will be 36mm. If 36 - just leave it alone.
Shocks (rear)
Struts (front)
Wonderbar
Sway Bar (front and rear)
I would suggest just saying screw it and going aftermarket with the first four of those, and do the best you can. The money it would take to build an IROC copy would be barely less than a kitted out aftermarket setup that would be much better. Not to knock IROC suspension cars by any means, just saying that to piece it together will cost you quite a bit. Plus IROC shocks/struts/springs are gonna be old by now.
Im a big fan of junkyard sway bars though. I got my 34mm IROC front bar for $8. Some of the RS's had the big sway bar standard up front. It will eitehr be like 29 or 31 mm or something like that, or it will be 36mm. If 36 - just leave it alone.
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Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
If I need the sway bars and wonder bar will they just bolt up or do i need to change alot of things?
Last edited by JamesC; 07-19-2010 at 07:16 AM.
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Car: 1992 RS
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Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
Given it's age - the first suspension dollar I would spend would be on the basics. You can assume that for $850, there's never been any suspension work done on the car (I'm actually amazed you got any vert that runs for $850 - I never see them for less than $3000).
Do tie rod ends, ball joints first (that will run you about $200 for good stuff). Check idler arm and centerlink when doing tie rods ends, and replace if needed. Then get a lifetime alignment - costs a few bucks more, but you'll get free realigns for life.
Then get the sway bars you want and do sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. Can do the wonderbar at this time - it simply bolts to the front swaybar connections.
Then get shocks, struts and springs. Might as well do all these at once, or at least the front struts and springs at same time. I'm running Bilsteins all around and Eibach springs, and I love them - about $1000 for that spring/shock/strut combo.
Given that it's a vert - you should seriously look into sub frame connectors - but I wouldn't do them until after the rest of suspension is done. You can get bolt-on sfc's, but they are best welded - many folks do the bolt-ons and then have them welded in place to save shop labor. The sfc's tie the car together, reducing the flex common in a unibody car. But you want the rest of the suspension to be set good first, so that the sfc's are welded in with the body straight and loaded properly.
Do tie rod ends, ball joints first (that will run you about $200 for good stuff). Check idler arm and centerlink when doing tie rods ends, and replace if needed. Then get a lifetime alignment - costs a few bucks more, but you'll get free realigns for life.
Then get the sway bars you want and do sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. Can do the wonderbar at this time - it simply bolts to the front swaybar connections.
Then get shocks, struts and springs. Might as well do all these at once, or at least the front struts and springs at same time. I'm running Bilsteins all around and Eibach springs, and I love them - about $1000 for that spring/shock/strut combo.
Given that it's a vert - you should seriously look into sub frame connectors - but I wouldn't do them until after the rest of suspension is done. You can get bolt-on sfc's, but they are best welded - many folks do the bolt-ons and then have them welded in place to save shop labor. The sfc's tie the car together, reducing the flex common in a unibody car. But you want the rest of the suspension to be set good first, so that the sfc's are welded in with the body straight and loaded properly.
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Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
The tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm and centerlink are all in great shape.
Im looking for info on whats the difference of the iroc suspension and f41 suspension.
Is it the same just with out the wounderbar? Thanks For any help.
Im looking for info on whats the difference of the iroc suspension and f41 suspension.
Is it the same just with out the wounderbar? Thanks For any help.
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Car: 87 Iroc z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 borg warner
Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I have recently installed a 383 into my 87 camaro. My stock springs are sagging and when I brought it to a shop, they said that nothing could be done. Is this true? Is there no set of springs for this car that can handle the extra weight of my 383 without sagging, or was I misinformed?
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
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Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: Iroc Suspension Upgrade?
Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I have recently installed a 383 into my 87 camaro. My stock springs are sagging and when I brought it to a shop, they said that nothing could be done. Is this true? Is there no set of springs for this car that can handle the extra weight of my 383 without sagging, or was I misinformed?
dont go back to that shop again.
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