TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

My new Mark Williams 12 bolt has the standard attachments (shock mounts, control arm brackets, spring pocket); otherwise it is bare.
I've ordered Spohn's aftermarket sway bar mounts: http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Suspension/Sway-Bars-Accessories/Aftermarket-Rear-Sway-Bar-Installation-Kit.html
This should give me some adjust-ability with the sway bar. I'll re-use my 24mm bar for now - there's only two months of good weather left.
I bolted the jegster bracket onto the PHB mount and ground away the powder coating where I'll be welding. I decided not to use the bar brace to the axle tube, so I can adjust those sway bar mounts more easily, and I can weld the bracket really good since the axle assembly is out of the car.
Pic of the jester bracket bolted and ready to weld.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

It's got Big Bearing Ford housing ends, set-20 bearings, 1/2" studs, and Wilwood dual piston floating rear parking brake kit - D-154.
30 spline Detroit Truetrac Diff.

Kennerz

Looks beefy, great selection of parts, I bet quite a bit of dilegent homework went into that. Let us know how it performs..

SlickTrackGod

Looks beautiful Brian.

I never had any issues with my Jegs unit, I did the same exact thing welding it all around and no support tube. Mine actually never came with a support tube like the new kit does.

Those big Ford bearings last forever. I just replaced mine on my 5000lb truck with the Currie rear end for the first time in 17 years. This truck sees lots of abuse as well as a LOT of high speed cruising. been over a buck 50 in it a half dozen times. You have yourself a bulletproof rearend. The nice thing about a beefy 12bolt compared to a 9" is the 12bolt robs less HP because the pinion rides higher on the ring gear- then of course MW gears are so much stronger then GM design so quicker wear is not an issue.

Looking great my friend!!!

SlickTrackGod

ps- just use black epoxy paint after you weld. It will last darn near as long as the powder coating and blends just fine. I jsut spray it on direct without any primer or anything. Just wire brush the welds and spray away.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Dean, when I talked with them I asked for "max side load protection." I don't shock load my drivetrain - the 217k 9bolt is still in for a couple more days.
I used POR-15 - starter kit (cleaner, prep, and POR-15, $30 from Jegs). I taped off the LCARB brackets and painted them. I weld them in with the axle out of car. I was careful to make sure they are equal on both sides. I have Kenny Brown adj LCA's if there's a problem. As you can see, I have the bare metal edges ready for weld.
Had to make my own brake line brackets - angle iron. The Goodridge lines need .630 opening so I used a 5/8 drill bit (.625) and filed the remaining .005 in order to clip them in. The 3" u-clamps are big causing me to struggle with bending the brake lines and keeping them off the tube so that I have sway bar clamp adjustment.
The powder coat is soft - I'm painting the tube where the clamps go with POR-15 as well cause it's harder.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Looks great. Did the Wilwoods go together ok?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yes, slight rub so I ground down the caliper - not much. I plan on D52 later on anyway. This will get me up and running, then I'll find someone to make a bracket for the D52.
9bolt is out. 12bolt should go in tomorrow.

SlickTrackGod

Looking great, Just a friendly reminder to zip tie those brake lines so they don;t wobble or they will spring a leak.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Fought with the shanks from the old LCA's and PHB. I won, but it took too much time. Replaced them with Del-Sphere ends and the associated spacers are in the plastic baggie. I guess I'll learn to loosen the adjustment nuts every couple of years or so.
Also, picked up Neapco 3r x 1350 adapter joint (2-1153) for the drive-shaft. It was so long ago when I bought it; it's a 3.5" aluminum unit I picked up from TPIS back when I lived in Mpls. I'll replace it next year sometime.