Hello, Just finished installing a pair of SSM subframe connectors, and thought i'd share my results. Passenger side: Had to beat the rear floor a little bit to line it up, and and disconnect the exhaust to get them on. Remarkably enough, it CLEARS THE EHAUST! (headers + y-pipe). I bolted the back end into the control arm and used the lift to line the front up into the frame, and welded it. Got a fairly good weld and i'm happy. Bolted the exhaust back up. It clears, but will prolly rub when in reverse. Not a big deal tho. Drivers side: Drivers side believe it or not was a p-i-t-a. It didn't "fit" as machined. I'm not sure if its cuz my frame is twisted, but it appeared that from where the rear bolt hole goes (tot he control arm) it was about 1/4 inch too long and didn't contact the front correctly for proper weld. I elongated the hole by 1/4 inch, and installed via lift to press it against frame. Welded. I didn't have as "much" welding surface as the passenger side, but I still got it pretty good. Now heres what I like about _BOTH_ sides: The lip under the rocker pannel touches the subframe all the way down, and the floor touches the other side. This is good for welding making the body extra-stiff. They're made out of thick (like 1/8) steel, and are like 1 x 2 inches. They make a great contact point for my lift, or a jack when i'm in the pits at the track. -- Joe

I have these also. I didn't put them in myself but my floor didn't need any massaging. I have all the carpet out so I can clearly see that nothings been done. My stock exhaust hit when in reverse just as your stating but it's not the no big deal as you think. When in reverse and start moving it will(or did for me) keep banging into the connector driving you crazy and sounding like all hell. All you have to do is heat the pipe area after the Y-pipe until it's cherry and CAREFULLY pry on it downward just a bit. The original pipe is brittle if it's old and won't give too much but will give plenty for what you need. Also as a side note that has been mentioned before, when I got my SLP headers/Y-Pipe it didn't clear, not even close. The y-pipe slams right into the frame connector. I had a custom exhaust shop cut down the y-pipe, bend it a hair, and re-weld it. Fit's perfect now.

Yeah, thats cuz SLP didn't follow the factory routing too well. I guess they have their reasons.

Makes me glad I got the SPOHN subframes, for a few dollars more you get subframes that fit perfect, cleared the stock exhaust and they are made out of 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" X .125 wall boxed steel, and you can buy them made to clear SLP Y-pipe if you have those.

I would have gotten Spohns if I hadn't gotten SSMs for free. Just sitting there in a junk car, uninstalled and brand new (didn't even have any surface rust and still had the instructions taped to them, along with the rest of SSMs $400 track kit), begging for a home.
I installed mine myself, and I only had to elongate the driver's side bolt hole ever-so-slightly. Other than that, it's a marvelous fit and you can weld the hell out of all of it.

Hey JZA, how did you weld them in? What process..tig, mig, or stick? I'm considering welding mine in myself but I only have access to a mig welder. Spohn's not producing subframes at the moment so I have time to get my stuff in one sock.

I MIG welded mine in, that's what SPOHN recommends, I guess they could be stick welded too, but I think a MIG does a great job.

mine are ssm and they fit great! the slp y pipe would rattle at times but, a quick spot weld at the slip fit took car of that why ?? I do not know I guess the pipe would move just enough. it is close but, does not hit. I love just using those to lift from. I might add a similar chunk behind the pass wheel so I have a good 4 corner lift spots.

ebmiller: MIG. It's probably the best way.

MIG...cool. I can do that myself and save some bucks.

Thanks all..