TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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Here is a picture of my 89 RS 350 TBI with a cold air intake on it, it fits and works well, I got it off of ebay, if you go to Ebay motors, and then Parts and Accessories, and search for TBI, a ton of air intakes come up for chevy full size pickup trucks, That what this is, i just made it fit and look nice under my hood. What it is supposed to do is the filter is supposed to go to the passenger's side, but all you have to do it turn the whole assembly counter clockwise until the filter is pointing at the washer fluid jug, and the Blue piece you see holding the base of the assembly to the tube peice, is a real flexable peice of rubber, i just tilted the filter and tube peice down at an angle and tightened the hose clamps to hold it in place, There is also a support bar you can see attached about half way down the tube, it wont attach to anything the way it comes so, you have to shorten it and then twist it and mount the other end to a bolt somewhere on the engine, i used the one bolt on the thermostat housing, It looks cool, Its gotta breath better than stock, You guys try it out, look it over and let me know what you think, Thanks guys!
K&N even makes a pendlem for trucks with the LO3 and the LO5. They claim they won't support over something like 215hp, though. With your filter over there you could get one of the JET IAT Relocater kits and replace your MAT sensor with a IAT sensor by drilling a 7/16 hole in the end of the air filter and hopefuly get a colder reading. Thats where I ran my IAT sensor on my '97 Z28.
__________________ '91 Camaro RS 305 TBI TH700R4 NOW TOTALED OUT
Moroso Air Filter, 4-Wire Heated O2 sensor, MSD GM Blaster Coil, Holley Blue Fuel Pump with Moroso Upgraded Spring, LT1 cam, BBK Underdrive Pulleys, Energy Suspension Tranny Mount, B&M Downshift Kit, B&M Transpak, B&M Drain Plug Kit, B&M Trick Shift fluid, Moroso 20lb radiator cap, Milodon 160* thermostat, Edelbrock Victor Water Pump,
Earl's Hyperfirm Stainless Brake lines,
Summit 1900 Stall Converter,
B&M Flexplate, AC Rapid Fire plugs,
Flowmaster Cat-Back Exhaust, Jet Fan Switch, 40-Below Water Weter,
Ultimate TBI mods, Tuning by TBIChips.com, Spoon Performance sway bar set, Removed EGR,
Removed Cat. Conv., Removed Smog Pump
As for the first two questions, I dont have a cowl induction hood, just the stock and it fits ( I couldn't believe it) and the sensors you can either drill whatever hole you need in the base peice or remove them , i removed mine and havent seen a differnce anywhere since then , thanks
I also forgot , there is a tiny inlet tube on the back side of the base peice, this is for the vent tube coming from the valve cover to go into, since i have breather caps on my valve covers i just took a rubber plug and JB Welded it in place to close that hole, thats all
Here is a link to the product on ebay, that i bought. But there are a couple others out there too, not sure how the others would work, probably the same way
I saw this on ebay as well but I wasn't sure if it would fit on our cars. That might be something I add to the list if it turns out to be a good idea. I wonder how it compares to an open air element??
I can't see how it would have any better effect over an open element. If anything, I think the open element would work better. Both are sucking in basically the same hot engine air, but with an open element there is less moving the air has to do to get to your throttle body. That, and there looks to be more air cleaning surface at that. My $.02
Bruce (90RS305)
__________________ "The INFAMOUS Bruce" Gun-Metal Grey 1990 Camaro RS L03' 305 TBI 5 speed One Of Only 2,787 Produced!! --1/4mile = 15.3 @ 87.00mph--
xj, I know you said you don't have a track, and that it's got to breath better than stock, but do you feel any gains? I have a friend that races GNs that says this would be a better setup than ramming air into a cleaner, as in the Ultimate TBI mods... of course the farther up you can get it is best, where the air is coldest. I'm considering both options right now and trying to decide what's better.
this setup has it in the looks and price catagory, doing my own ram air setup would actually cost a little more. but I already have a good K&N filter in the stock cleaner and don't want to scrap it if these mods are mainly cosmetic.
this setup has it in the looks and price catagory, doing my own ram air setup would actually cost a little more. but I already have a good K&N filter in the stock cleaner and don't want to scrap it if these mods are mainly cosmetic.
Honestly man if you have already bought a $40 K&N filter for your stock housing, I would just keep that. It will not make much of a difference at all. Save the money you would spend on the ram air setups and get some headers or gears or something that will really show you some results. You'll be much happier doing that than playing around with the air filter game and not getting power numbers worth anything.
Also, IIRC Beast5spdGTA used an open element and an stock cleaner with a K&N and there was pretty much no difference in power numbers. He has a pretty quick LO3 with an L98 cam too that I think ran about a 14.3 1/4mi. So, trust me and save your money up longer and keep the K&N investment and get some headers or something meaningful.
the only thing that I would worry about would be the header heat potentialy melting the element or causing it to get weak (dry-rot), and the long tube that connects the filter to the TB housing, getting that hot would hurt the OA intention of doing that mod.
well for 40 dollars for the whole kit that's cheaper than you can buy an aluminum tube and a K&N filter for... almost seems worth it just for entertainments sake.
I'll probly hold off on my 305 untill I can drop a crate into it. waiting is the hard part...
looks good. hope it works just as well. i might be making something similar to that out of whatever i can find (i like to make things and save the green $$$) and adding a k&n at the end or somethin.
does anyone think that if i remove the coffee can sized black thing (carbon canister i think) that it would trip out the computer or mess anything up, esp emmisionwise? seems to me like another pointless hollow piece of plastic in an area where i can get more air....
im really not sure of any mentionable gains from it, but i think that the filter is far enough away from the headers that its not going to be bothered, the end of the filter is abot 1/8" away from the washer fluid bottle so its towards the front of the engine compartment pretty good, i take the whole assembly off when i take the car to shows, and i put on a summit open element. Also the tube is i beleive 3" so you could even put a k&n filter instead of the one they give you, So in any case, if it dosnt do anything for power gains it does open the door for improvement in that category, and we now know that at least there are parts out there that we can start fooling around with to make something better, thanx!
