TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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Up top is where I feel a huge difference. I am using the round filter not the TPI filters. All it took was some flexi dryer duct, a TPI snorkal and airbox, and a dremel.
hey freeloader, here are you answers to you questions.
1. It came off an 86 with maf.
2. I got the ducting at Lowes, but any hardware store should have it. Just ask them for some flexable aluminum ducting. It costed me about 7 bucks for each piece, had to buy 2 of them. A 5" diamter and a 3" diameter (those are approx.)
3. Yes, the snorkal of the base is only left with a a half to 3/4 of an inch. Just enough for the hose clamp to be able to grip it.
4. No, it isnt hard. Mine was held on by a few bolts. I just unbolted them and drop the TPI airbox in place, no mod required.
Originally posted by ponykiller1992 hey freeloader, here are you answers to you questions.
1. It came off an 86 with maf.
2. I got the ducting at Lowes, but any hardware store should have it. Just ask them for some flexable aluminum ducting. It costed me about 7 bucks for each piece, had to buy 2 of them. A 5" diamter and a 3" diameter (those are approx.)
3. Yes, the snorkal of the base is only left with a a half to 3/4 of an inch. Just enough for the hose clamp to be able to grip it.
4. No, it isnt hard. Mine was held on by a few bolts. I just unbolted them and drop the TPI airbox in place, no mod required.
thank ya much, one more question though, why'd you have to get two different sets of ducting? first one didn't fit?
The only issue I could see from that setup is that the hose is ribbed causing unwanted restriction however the pure cold air should provide an overwhelming boost over the stock and open air element setup. I think I may attempt something similar to that on my bird.
The ribbed ducting was th only thing that I could think of that would allow enough flexing for when the engine rocks under hard acceleration. I will eventually build some smooth ram air boxes for behind the fog lights. This will look better and be smooth inside, plus a little larger. I also plan on builing a TB box that sits on the TB so instead of using the large round filter base, I can use the TPI filtes. Still having trouble figuing what I can use for the snorkal to the TB that is 1, cheap, 2, readily available, and 3, flexable enough to withstand any kind of engine rock that takes place.
Originally posted by ThraxXx The only issue I could see from that setup is that the hose is ribbed causing unwanted restriction however the pure cold air should provide an overwhelming boost over the stock and open air element setup. I think I may attempt something similar to that on my bird.
One thing that I noticed, is that when the duct is fully compressed, though it isnt like glass, it is relatively smoot. THe poblem comes when you stretch the duct out, it can become ver jagged on the inside.
From the looks of it, you really don't have that much ribbing on your current setup in the first place. Secondly, having the tubing conpressed, whereas it WOULD creat a smaller place for the air to become turbulent, would create a DEEPER place for the air to become turbulent, IIO putting you right where you left off. The way I look at it, the stock forms of both TPI and TBI have ribs on the intakes and they don't seem to hurt all that much, you should be fine...
Bruce (90RS305)
__________________ "The INFAMOUS Bruce" Gun-Metal Grey 1990 Camaro RS L03' 305 TBI 5 speed One Of Only 2,787 Produced!!
Only mods Flomaster 40series muffler... --1/4mile = 15.3 @ 87.00mph-- See Her In All Her Beauty Here!!
When I look at the stock stuff, The ducting I used is actaully alot smoother than stock. Going to the track tomorrow, will see if it makes a difference.
ok I went to the junkyard again today and FINALLY found the tpi intake setup and bought it (17 bucks for top and bottom, woohoo)
ok, I know you dremeled the neck off of the circular air box, and I know you got a breather and got rid of the pcv pipe thing, but did you run into any other problems when moving the air box?
what about the rubber hose on the bottom, did you just plug that, what about the wire, did it move okay?
The sensor that is in the housing has a long enough wire for it to move. my thermac thing or whater was never connected anyway. The other vac hose that went to the TB unit, i just got a longer piece of hose.
If you havn't already get rid of your air silencer ring on the housing. It is just tack welded. This set-up was very easy to do. Just dremel off the two little tabs and the housing will rotate with ease. I am gonna get some pics and make a a how to on it.
I really like that setup; nice work! I just bought the upper and lower parts from a TPI air-intake plus all the bolts for $20 and bolted it right up. I have an open air element with air coming from the side scoop and now up front like yours. Works really well, especially at higher speeds. But again, good job!
__________________ 1989 Camaro l03 RS
Hothkis springs, KYB struts, polygraphite bushings, and Wonderbar, American Thunder Exhaust, Edelbrock Open Air Element, MSD Cap/Rotor/Wires, AC Delco RapidFires, Spohns LCAs and Panhard Bar, 145 Speedo, TPI Air Intake.
Coming Up: 357 TBI, Hooker headers and Y-Pipe, even more Suspension stuff, and new Rearend. It sucks being 17 and not having a job!
My CarDomain Site
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/592863
that would be nice, it would be great to finally have a detailed article on how to make a friggin cold air intake for our cars...
...hopefully someone can include a detailed article on how to open up the bottom half of these boxes so some real air can flow in...
...I dunno, I know with a little imagination and ingenuity it'd be relatively easy to do, but I personally like to get the details from people who have stuff that works, as well as clear pics of them that I can base my results off of.
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone When people get there modified TPi set-ups done they can submit a tech article to me that I can add to the stickys or make it a new one.
Lets add it to one of the existing ones. Its gettin' perdy cluttered up there again...
Half a second sure as heck ain't bad for the money you put into it! I'd probly do that setup myself if it wasn't for the fact I like the way an open element looks better
Originally posted by ponykiller1992 The ribbed ducting was th only thing that I could think of that would allow enough flexing for when the engine rocks under hard acceleration.
Any particular reason you couldn't use some of the steel/aluminum HVAC ducting (painted to match the car, of course) with just a little piece of dryer duct (or one of those rubber junction pieces for sewer pipe - that might look fancier) to allow some flex right at the junctions?
Heck, you might be able to find some diesel exhaust pipe at the junk yard, cut it up and weld it back together so it'll take the right path, and have an intake that looks like those expensive tubular CAI's that the ricers (and people with modern cars) run.
Just wanted to let you guys know that the one intake made for TBI trucks. The one with the chrome air bonnet will fit under the hood. You can find them on ebay for like $29. Sadly it doesnt fit under my hood though since I have a carb now and a higher intake manifold. But hell even so its only about .75" to tall. Just need to raise the back of the hood a little.
yea I'd agree that his setup might be able to grab more air then mines. The problem for me though was I have the 3 point Edelbrock STB. After you put one of those a box like the one he has is out of the question. Theres just no space anymore since theres only like an inch between the filter and the STB of a 14x3. Unless ofcourse you'd want to crush down and flatten the ducting...which woudl then lower air intake.
__________________ 1989 RS, L03 305 +.030", 700R4, 16" '91 Z28 Rims, Dynomax cat and cat back exhaust, Hedman TEMS, Wonder bar, IROC stabilizer bar and steering box, Accel 8mm wires, injector pod spacer, 45k Volt coil, New Maui Blue Metallic paint. Soon to come: 3.23s, shift kit
I just want everyone to know that I went ahead and bought speed-density tpi ducting and it wasn't long enough to connect to my base, I cut the arm too short.
my suggestion, if you can come across one of those then cut your arm around 3-4 inches from the base, then it should connect.
otherwise, that truck duct seems to be the best second option.
p.s. I tried some of the ducting at autozone/advance auto, and I dont suggest it, the ducting is cheap and flimsy, mine ending up bowing down after the engine heated up for the first time and was only about 1/4" above my belt.
so, ya, I wouldn't suggest that.
that all being said, I've gotten a base, cut the arm, gotten a tpi cleaner setup, and gotten various hoses and made a ram air setup, and I'd just like everyone to know that not only has it more than noticably improved overall speed and power, but my car idles smoother, I somehow managed a 3mpg gain(actually from around 15 to 19.2, but I'm going with "results not typical") which in these pricey times I couldn't be more thankful for. It seriously seems like I have a whole new car on my hands, it's very odd, to be quite honest.
this setup should really be looked into more throroughly, there's real potential here.
at some point I'll go to the track and see if there's any gains, when that happens I'll post 'em.
I'd probly do that setup myself if it wasn't for the fact I like the way an open element looks better 
