i just got flow tech headers $100, and y -pipe $115 6" tall aircleaner $0.52, iv done Ultimate TBI mods, no cat, no smog where should the other $285 go? hers somethings im looking in to doing, or getting Ignition box and coil, heads, cam, intake, chip burning,

I take it you didn't pay for shipping? I would spend 30 to 50 of that on good collector and flange gaskets for those headers. Do not use the supplied ones if you want them to last for more than 5 minutes.

thats with shipping

1.6 roller rockers would be a decent investment. Ive heard of guys dropping a couple of tenths with those and im told it doesnt hurt the stock tuning either. Good Luck.

F that, get a cam and intake

Times 2

yup, although make sure you have money for the equipment to do a chip. slapping a cam in, will get you demmisioning results without the computer work.

Buy a used roller cam. This is a budget build right? Get a used cam, either an L98 cam (as used in the L98, or in the police LO5 5.7 engine, 1992-1993) or an F/Y car LT1 cam. If you buy the LT1 cam, you won't need 1.6 rockers (you'll have enough lift). If you need 1.6 rockers, use the stamped steel self-aligning 1.6s made by Federal Mogul (and repackaged by Elgin, and others).

On the same low-budget thread, see if you can find some low mileage valve springs,

Next, I'd remove the stock intake manifold and port it using whatever tools you have available (incl sandpaper and filing-by-hand with metal files). Yes an aftermarket manifold would help, but decent results can be had with the stock aluminum intake so long as you port it. Removing the stock manifold also allows you to replace the L and R intake-to-head gaskets, which are prone to leak coolant near the #1 and #8 cylinders.

I don't know if you hood will close ovcer that tall air filter, unless you plan on cutting a hole for it, in the finest slant six Magnante-style (seen in HRM on the \6 buildup).

If you play your cards right, you'll still have most of that money leftover after you do the above. Gutting the interior of unessentail stuff would be next, along with AC and AIR delete. Those are also no-cost mods.

$80 carb
$80 intake manifold
$80 cam kit
$45 on misc install things.




thats the fastest you'll get for the cash you have unless you find a cheap nitrous kit.

this winter i might buy, an LT1 cam, and 305 TPI heads and port them...


my next buy for now will be an Ignition box and coil
im thinking of MSD 6A or accle 300+
any others that are just as good or better for less doller?



(kdrolt) look closer in the pic above you might find out why my aitfillter will fit, under my hood

if you went carb you would have to go HEI and it would go over budget.... TPI heads are cheap 081 w/e and if you port and polish them youll be good

this is a budget POWER build, right?


the ignition is a waste of money.

right now, your car is still so gutless that the stock ignition is more then sufficent. a hotter spark wont make you any more power. you need more air first.

Well you have 285 to go so you are going to need over 100 bucks in gaskets to do a heads and cam swap. You will also need 50 to get a new timing shain and another 50 for valve springs. You could re-use your old ones but then your budget build has turned into a ghetto build. Chances are you are going to need to have the heads checked out before you slap them on. I would trust just putting used heads on because you get them cheap.

081 or 416 heads - $100
LT1 cam - $30 to $50
Gaksets for H&C - $100
Header and collector gaskets (you cannot use the flowtech ones) - $30 to $50

Don't forget chip burning stuff. There goes another $300. I would spend the rest of your money on suspension stuff.

BTW: I completely agree with MrDude. Your stock ignition will be more than enough to support even the wildest of TBI combos.

ok so with the mods i have done, how much more TQ and HP should i see from what was stock from?

To hard to say. It all depends on the state of tune and condition of your car. Some stock LO3 cars run faster than ones with a full exhaust.

junkyard/buddys garage HEI.... free to $15.... add in a new cap and rotor... (coil should be in the cap when you get it.)


btw, ive read this thread 3 times before your post showed.... board is actin wierd...

A waste of money, IMO, for your mods to buy any ignition box. Do a tune up, use a hotter coil (GM or other) and be done with it. The MSD or Accel won't help you much with the mods you have.


Ahhh. I didn't look that carefully. Thx.

what kinda suspension stuff,
well bumping up timeing help anything?

Bumping the timing can help throttle response and add a few ponies. It iwll require you to use more than 87 octane though. Check out the suspension board for that field. Look into sub frame connectors, LCA's, relocation brackets, springs, shocks etc etc.....

I still say 1.6 roller rockers to raise the lift of your cam a little. and if you can get those cheap maybe a performer intake to go with it. With all of your mods plus these I think you should easily shave a second off of your stock times. Good Luck with what ever you do.

from the y-pipe back, 3" or 4"? manuilybent pipe...
what do you think? ... anymore gains?

im lookin into a blaster 2 coil, and some new pulg wires
cuz my now are looking pertty melted :lala:

timing may help more than a few ponies, if your timing is retarded.

when i first got mine, for whatever reason, my timing was way retarded, and my car ran really rich (and 17s for that matter). couldn't believe the performance i got out of it after i advanced the timing to about 4* beyond stock. i'd buy the coil and wires (and plugs, if you need em), and save the rest for heads and cam swap.

You mean mandrel? 4" is way to big and you would lose power with it. Fancy wires and a coil, although good parts, will kill your budjet.

with whats done, can someone estmate some 1/4 times?
and how much more power the mods shall make...

What mods? You have listed about every one out there somewhere in this thread. You cannot accurately determine power levels or ET's by geuss alone. There is only one way to find out. Without the proper chip burning you will be slower than you are now.

ok, then all say it like this, what do other members run with these similar mods?

With headers and a full exhaust system, and the cowl induction you should run high 15's at best. Especially since you have the crappy flowtech headers and an open exhaust. I think high 15s would be very good for your setup. Good Luck.

I have seen 13.9 to 16.5 with your projected plans. It boils down to tune, suspension, driver skill, and track conditions. Just do the mods and run the car.

LMAO

long day lol

Ill tell you this when I had full exaust, open element and only 3.73s and posi my car ran a low 15 high 14 at best. I can tell you this cuz my boy took his 96 imppy to the track and ran a 15.3 and I beat him by half a car length or so a few times. So with just full exaust id have to agree high 15s at best.

Like I've said many times before, these cars are so different from each other it's frightening. STOCK I pulled a 15.3 out of my LO3 and there are guys on here with more mods then I can count that are barely hitting that mark. Not only does it come down to how well you tune your car after you get the mods on, it's really about how your individual car reacts to the new parts.

Bruce (90RS305)

He|| last run I made was high 16's at 89 mph? look at my mods! I'm still just pissed off and about ready to give up on the 305!

and people wonder why we preach about tuning yourself, and not getting a mail-order chip.

That would be because you have a 5spd my friend. I am not saying sticks are faster than autos yada yada yada. But there is less drivetrain loss of power and you get the better 3.08 posi rear compared to the 2.73 peg leg. Ive never seen a stock 5spd L03 break worse than a 15.9. Look at Traviz he ran a 15.6 or something like that his first time out to the track. It makes a pretty big difference although a 15.3 is really good for a stock L03.

There is not much difference between the T5 cars and auto cars when stock in the 1/4. Also the 3.08 was also a peg leg and not posi.

That may be, but its still doesnt change the fact that the 5spd guys are running better than the autos.

Who cares theyre both slow none the less.

on a side note... i just got a HEI, cap, coil, rotor and wires.... free.

**points to post above**

:lala:







if you make good friends, you do get farther in this hobby for less money.

Maybe its just my perception, but it looks like you're catching a lot of flack for the posts...

Don't sweat it.

Sweet deal brotha! Congrats

ok, should i ditch the gold ring?
and then use a TBI spacer "all need that or esle the air cleaner wont fit" and injecter spacer?

heres with the ring.....

heres with out the ring...

will this have any probs?
and when i get a injecter spacer,
will this not work right? becuz the pods so far away from the unit?

why wouldn't it work. going without the space, unshrouds the area around the throttle bores, which should allow air to move freely through that area. truth be told, i don't think you would notice anything. the biggest restriction i have found yet is the injectors, i can go static before i start to pull vacume at the TB.

as they said it really depends on how your car reacts to mods, my 88 iroc had the l03 and it ran a 15.1 stock (later found out there was a superchip) but thats with the stock 2 1/2 inch exhaust and all stock muffler and cat. It was a 5 speed though. Hell my tpi with an auto ran a 15.3 with k&n's and cat back havent been back since i added the 3.70 9 bolt yet. But tpi is the all powerful lol. I like tpi for the low end torque but where the powerband is it stops flowing. dont waste your money on an ignition box get an aftermarket coil. And change out the pickup coil for a new delco or aftermarket. I noticed a big difference.


EDIT: Don't waste your money on an injector spacer, go to autozone and buy a tbi rebuild kit for $20 mine had an extra injector gasket, i put them both on and it sits high like an injector spacer, and you have all new seals and gaskets.

i was reading here
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ake/index.html

could i run mine, with out a custom chip... with out hurting anything? im planing on getting into burning a litle later on...
.

i dont want to sound stupid or anything, wich this might sound, but what the heck does LO3 stand for. you guys talk bout stock 305 tbi and stock LO3 tbi, and making a stock 305 into a LO3 305. just kinda courious. gotta get up on the terms.

and shiftycapone is the most infromationl person on this site in my opinoin. he seems to no everything. :hail:

LO3 is the GM code for this type of 305 TBI found in our cars. It was also found in some caprice cars. Same for other motors, L98, LT1, LS1 etc etc. It's just an RPO cdoing for the engine certain vehicles were to recieve.

Thanks for the kind words but I assure you I do not know everything. Once you do every mod to your car you will be just as informed as the rest of the guys here who know their stuff. Modding your 305 TBI makes you learn this stuff if you want to stay sane.

Yes it is the production code however the LO in LO3 means low output believe it or not.

welp?